2016 SUBARU OUTBACK Unknown Or Other Problems

BATTERY DRAINS AFTER THE CAR SITS FOR A FEW DAYS. I HAD THE BATTERY REPLACED LAST YEAR, AND HAD THE NEW BATTERY CHECKED RECENTLY AT THE DEALER. THEY (DEALER) SAID IT WAS FINE AND SAW NO PARASITIC DRAIN. THEY TOLD ME I SHOULD DRIVE THE CAR EVERY DAY TO KEEP THE BATTERY CHARGED, WHICH I FIND TO BE VERY ODD AND EXTREMELY INCONVENIENT. I ALSO OWN A 2020 SUBARU ASCENT AND DON'T HAVE TO DRIVE IT EVERY DAY TO KEEP THE BATTERY HEALTHY. THE CAR SAT FOR ONE WEEK RECENTLY AND THE BATTERY DRAINED AGAIN. I JUMPED IT YESTERDAY IT AND DROVE IT FOR 30 MINUTES AND TODAY THE BATTERY IS DEAD AGAIN.

BATTERY OFTEN GOES DEAD. HAVE REPLACED BATTERY 3 OR 4 TIMES SINCE WE PURCHASED IN NOVEMBER 2015. BATTERY DIED IN GARAGE AND IN PARKING LOT.

THE IGNITION KEY DOESN'T COME OUT WHEN IN PARK. THE GEARS CAN MANUALLY SLIP WHILE IN PARK (WHILE MOVING THE GEAR SHAFT). IT'S LIKE THE CAR DOESN'T RECOGNIZE THE GEAR 'PARK', WHILE ALSO THE KEY GETS STUCK AND WILL NOT COME OUT. THIS HAPPENS NUMEROUS TIMES A DAY.

KEY GETS STUCK ON IGNITION SWITCH WHEN I TURN CAR OFF AND PUT IT IN PARK. KEY WILL NOT RELEASE FROM THE STEERING COLUMN. IT TAKES SEVERAL MINUTES, SOME TIMES UP TO 20 MINUTES FOR THE KEY TO RELEASE FROM THE COLUMN. VEHICLE NEEDS TO BE STARTED AND TURNED OFF SEVERAL TIMES BEFORE KEY RELEASES. THIS HAS BEEN HAPPENING FOR A FEW WEEKS NOW, VERY FRUSTRATING AND DANGEROUS AS HAVING TO START AND STOP THE VEHICLE HAS DRAINED THE BATTERY TWICE NOW AND I HAVE HAD TO GET THE VEHICLE JUMP STARTED. HOPEFULLY THIS DOES NOT HAPPEN IN THE MIDDLE OF NO WHERE.....

KEY WILL NOT RELEASE FROM IGNITION SWITCH WHEN PARKED AFTER DRIVING. REQUIRES MULTIPLE SHIFTING FROM PARK TO DRIVE AND BACK TO PARK BEFORE KEY WILL RELEASE. FREQUENCY OF OCCURRENCE IS NOW EVERY OTHER DAY. VEHICLE HAS 48,500 MILES ON IT CURRENTLY.

MULTIPLE CRACKED WINDSHIELDS UNEXPLAINED. CRACKED UNDER MINIMAL STRESS IN HEAT AND COLD WHILE IN MOTION. INSURANCE DID NOT COVER DEDUCTIBLES OR ALTERNATE TRANSPORTATION DURING REPAIRS

MULTIPLE CRACKED WINDSHIELDS UNEXPLAINED. WINDSHIELDS CRACKED WITH MINIMAL STRESS MOSTLY WHILE IN MOTION AT LOW AND HIGH SPEEDS.

BATTERY HAS DIED TWICE IN THE LAST 5 MONTHS WHEN NOTHING WAS LEFT ON AND THE CAR HAS BEEN DRIVEN AT LEAST ONCE A WEEK. IT CONTINUES TO DRAIN EVEN WHEN WE REPLACED WITH A HIGH LEVEL BATTERY

WINDSHIELDS KEEPS CRACKING. REPAIRS ARE EXPENSIVE BECAUSE OF EYESIGHT CALIBRATION. WINDSHIELD CRACKED SHORTLY AFTER PURCHASE IN EARLY 2018, REPAIRED IT IMMEDIATELY, THEN CRACKED AGAIN WITHIN 2 OR 3 MONTHS. CRACK BOTH TIMES SPREAD MORE THAN 6 INCHES IN LESS THAN AN HOUR.

WITHOUT WARNING THE SUNROOF GLASS SPONTANEOUSLY EXPLODED WHILE DRIVING 40 MILES PER HOUR

WHEN YOU SHUT THE VEHICLE OFF THEY KEY GETS STUCK IN ACCESSORY MODE AND YOU ARE UNABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY. PROBLEM OCCURS INTERMITTENTLY.

SINCE PURCHASING VEHICLE ON 6/16/2016 WE HAVE HAD A RECURRING PROBLEM WITH DRIVERS SIDE WINDOW ENGAGING THE AUTO-REVERSING (ANTI-ENTRAPMENT) FEATURE CAUSING AN INABILITY TO CLOSE WINDOW. WE HAVE MENTIONED THIS ISSUE TO DEALERSHIP NUMEROUS TIMES SOMETIMES DOCUMENTED, SOMETIMES NOT. THEY RESET SWITCH, ONLY FOR THE PROBLEM TO RETURN. ON OUR LAST VISIT6/31/2020 WE WERE TOLD THERE WAS A TSB (12-272-19R) BUT WE WOULD BE CHARGED $276.22 FOR THE REPAIR. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE AND SHOULD BE COVERED. WE ALSO PURCHASED AN EXTENDED WARRANTY FOR $2547.00 GOOD UNTIL 6/16/2026 OR 126000 MILES AND WERE TURNED DOWN ON COVERAGE FROM THEM AS WELL.

MY 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK ALL OF SUDDEN HAD WARNING LIGHTS SUCH AS: BRAKE, ABS, AND STABILITY TRACTION CONTROL POPPED UP ON THE DASHBOARD WHEN THE CAR WAS IN PARK ANS WHEN I WAS DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD AND WILL NOT GO AWAY. IT HAS MADE MY STEERING WHEEL REALLY HARD TO TURN.

THE CAR IS STATIONARY WHEN THIS HAPPENS. THE IGNITION KEY GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION AFTER TURNING THE CAR OFF. BESIDES BEING ANNOYING, THIS PREVENTS THE CAR FROM BEING LOCKED THUS INTRODUCES A THEFT RISK. EVENTUALLY, WE ARE ABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY BUT THERE IS NO CONSISTENT METHOD OF DOING SO. IT'S A MATTER OF TIME AND MESSING WITH TURNING THE CAR ON AND OFF, MOVING THE SHIFTER, JIGGLING THE KEY, OR MOVING THE STEERING WHEEL BEFORE IT COMES OUT. GOOGLE INDICATES THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM WITH SUBARUS SO I DON'T KNOW WHY THERE IS NOT A RECALL. THIS HAPPENS SPORADICALLY AND HAS BEEN ONGOING FOR THE PAST SEVERAL MONTHS.

SOMETIMES THE KEY WON'T COME OUT OF THE IGNITION WHEN I TRY TO TURN THE CAR OFF (EVEN THOUGH THE CAR IS IN PARK). BASED ON WHAT I'VE READ, THIS IS A DEFECT WITH A SENSOR NOT RECOGNIZING THAT THE CAR IS IN PARK. I THINK THERE SHOULD BE A RECALL FOR THIS PARTICULAR DEFECT. I BELIEVE THE SERVICE BULLETIN THAT ADDRESSES THIS DEFECT IS TSB NUMBER 16-112-18R.

WE WERE DRIVING ON I5 NORTH THROUGH WASHINGTON ON A ROADTRIP (GOING ~65MPH), ABOUT TO ENTER A THUNDERSTORM, AND OUR MOONROOF UNEXPECTEDLY SHATTERED, MAKING AN EXPLOSION SOUND. THANKFULLY NO ONE WAS HURT AND WE WERE ABLE TO GO TO A NEARBY FORD DEALERSHIP TO HELP US PATCH THE CAR SO WE COULD MAKE OUR 2+ HOUR DRIVE HOME, BUT IT WAS ABSOLUTELY TERRIFYING. AFTER FURTHER RESEARCH, WE THINK IT'S IN RELATION TO THE PRESSURE DIFFERENCE INSIDE AND OUTSIDE OF THE CAR. THERE WAS LITTLE GLASS IN THE CAR, MAKING IT SEEM AS IF THE EXPLOSION WAS COMING FROM INSIDE. NO ROCK OR DEBRIS HITTING THE CAR WAS NOTICED. HERE'S MORE INFORMATION ABOUT THE ISSUE FROM AN ARTICLE LAST YEAR THAT REFERENCED NHTSA: HTTPS://WWW.KGW.COM/ARTICLE/NEWS/LOCAL/MY-SUNROOF-EXPLODED-GOVERNMENT-INVESTIGATING-EXPLODING-SUNROOFS/283-C529D7E5-F2C4-488E-AE34-96F781AD5466.

MY 2016 OUTBACK'S HORN STOPPED WORKING. OVER A YEAR AGO, IT STARTED WORKING ONLY WHEN I WAS TURNING THE WHEEL, THEN EVENTUALLY IN JULY 2019, IT STOPPED WORKING ALL TOGETHER. IT IS MOSTLY AN ANNOYANCE, BUT I CAN'T USE IT TO WARN OTHERS. I CALLED AN TOLD MY DEALER'S SERVICE DEPT, BUT THEY NEVER GOT BACK TO ME. LATER ON, I TALKED TO THEM, BUT WAS TOLD THEY WOULD NOT DO ANYTHING BECAUSE MY CAR IS OUT OF WARRANTY. THEY DO KNOW THE PART ON IT THAT "GOES". I THOUGHT THAT IF I GOT AN EXPENSIVE MILEAGE CHECK UP SERVICE THAT THEY WOULD FEEL BADLY THAT THEY KNOW THEY HAVE A "PART THAT GOES" AND FIX IT, BUT THEY DIDN'T OFFER TO DO ANYTHING. IT IS OBVIOUS THAT SINCE THEY KNOW EXACTLY WHAT PART "WENT" WITHOUT EVEN LOOKING AT THE CAR, THEY HAD A BADLY MADE PART. I HAVE A...

KEY STICKS IN IGNITION WHEN PARKED AND TURNING OFF THE VEHICLE. KEY TURNS, BUT NOT TO THE POINT WHERE IT REACHES THE POSITION OF REMOVAL. IT OFTEN TAKES SEVERAL STARTS AND TURN OFF'S TO ACHIEVE REMOVAL OF THE KEY. OFTEN REQUIRES VERY FIRM FORCES OF THE SHIFT LEVER IN THE PARK POSITION TO ACHIEVE RELEASE OF THE KEY. *TR

HAPPENS WHEN STATIONARY. WHEN YOU PULL INTO A PARKING SPOT AND PUT THE CAR IN PARK, THE KEY WILL NOT TURN ALL THE WAY OFF AND CANNOT BE REMOVED. SUBARU DEALER DIAGNOSED IT AS 'FAULTY SHIFTER ASSEMBLY'. THIS WOULD BE FROM THE MANUFACTURER AS NO WORK HAS BEEN DONE IN THOSE AREAS OF THE CAR SINCE PURCHASED BRAND NEW FROM SUBARU DEALERSHIP IN 2016. CAUSES THE KEY TO BECOME STUCK IN THE IGNITION AND UNABLE TO REMOVE WHEN PUT IN PARK. *TR

THE STARLINK INFOTAINMENT SYSTEM IN THE OUTBACK AFFECTS IPHONE MAPPING WHEN CONNECTED TO THE CAR'S USB SLOTS. THE MAPS GO HAYWIRE, ALWAYS POINTING THE WRONG DIRECCION, REROUTING CONSISTENTLY, RESULTING IN VERY DANGEROUS ROUTING. THIS ISSUE HAS BEEN PRESENT SINCE DAY ONE. I HAD TO STOP CONNECTING THE IPHONE TO THE USB SLOTS WHEN DRIVING SO I CAN USE APPS LIKE GOOGLE MAPS AND APPLE MAPS. THIS IS A KNOW ISSUE WITH THE FIRST GENERATION OF STARLINK INFOTAINMENT. IT ONLY HAPPENS WHEN I CONNECT THE IPHONE TO THE OUTBACK AND NOT TO ANY OTHER MODEL. *TR

THE BATTERY ON OUR 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK KEEPS DISCHARGING AND CAR WON'T START. IT IS IN THE GARAGE. DROVE IT TO THE STORE YESTERDAY. BOUGHT A NEW BATTERY 4 MONTHS AGO, HAS HAPPENED 5 TIMES IN 6 MONTHS.

BATTERY RUNS DOWN OFTEN. I'VE HAD THE BATTERY CHECKED MULTIPLE TIMES AND NO PROBLEM WITH THE ALTERNATOR EITHER. I KNOW IT WILL RUN DOWN DURING LOADING OR UNLOADING THAT LASTS MORE THAN 30 MINUTES, SO I MANAGE THAT SITUATION. BUT IT IS STARTING TO RUN DOWN MORE OFTEN WHILE PARKED. THIS HAS LEFT ME STRANDED MULTIPLE TIMES OVER THE LAST 6 MONTHS.

CAN NOT REMOVE KEY WHEN IN PARK!! LEAVES ME STRANDED..HAVE TO KEEP TRYING VARIOUS METHODS TO TURN CAR OFF AND REMOVE KEY!! THIS SHOULD BE A RECALL.. HAVE SEEN MANY COMPLAINTS AS WELL ON LINE.

CRACKED WINDSHIELD. STARTING @ BOTTOM CENTER UP 8" THEN 6" TO RIGHT.

WHEN PUTTING AUTO INTO PARK, KEY WILL NOT TURN FAR ENOUGH TO ALLOW KEY TO COME OUT. HAVE TO RESTART CAR , SHIFT INTO OTHER GEARS AND RETURN TO PARK UNTIL THE KEY WILL COME OUT. I HAVE ANOTHER EXACT YEAR AND MODEL VEHICLE WHICH HAD THE SAME ISSUE AND IT WAS REPAIRED ABOUT 1 1/2 YEARS AGO. VEHICLE STATIONARY.

MY 2016 OUTBACK WILL HAVE A "GHOST SLIDE" WHEN ON ICE. IT SEEMS TO BE WORSE WHEN THE ROADS ARE ONLY PARTIALLY ICY. THE BACK END FEELS LIKE IT WILL SLIP OUT AND THE CAR WILL FEEL LIKE IT IS LOSING CONTROL. THIS IS MY 3RD SUBARU AND THE ONLY ONE WE HAVE HAD ISSUES WITH. I HAVE HAD IT INTO A SHOP (NOT A SUBARU DEALER) AND THEY CANNOT FIND ANYTHING WRONG WITH IT. I CALLED SUBARU AND THEY TOLD ME I HAVE ICE BUILD UP! THAT IS NOT IT! I CALLED THEM AGAIN THIS WEEK AND THEY SAID THEY DON'T HAVE A RECALL NOTICE FOR MY ISSUE. THIS CAR IS GREAT FOR SAFETY AND DRIVING 95% OF THE TIME SO IT IS DANGEROUS TO HIT A PATCH OF ICE AND HAVE IT SLIDE. IT IS REALLY BAD WHEN THEY ROADS HAVE STARTED TO MELT AND YOU HAVE PARTIAL...

MY CAR HAS 55,000 MILES. RECENTLY, I AM NOT ABLE TO REMOVE MY KEY FROM THE IGNITION. I AM ABLE TO STOP THE ENGINE BUT I AM NOT ABLE TO TURN OFF ALL THE ELECTRONICS. I HAVE TO STOP AND START, BACK UP OR PULL FORWARD (WHICH I AM NOT ALWAYS ABLE TO DO) THE CAR A NUMBER OF TIMES TO GET THE KEY TO COME OUT. MY DAUGHTER ALSO HAS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. SHE HAD THE SAME PROBLEM AT ABOUT THE SAME MILEAGE, HAD THE IGNITION SWITCH REPLACED FOR $600.00 AND IS NOW HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM AGAIN 1 YEAR LATER. THIS PROBLEM IS COMMON ENOUGH THAT SUBARU PUT A TECHNICAL REPAIR BULLETIN OUT ON IT TSB #16-12-18R BUT HAS NOT DONE A RECALL.

I CAN'T REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION AFTER PUTTING THE CAR IN PARK AND TURNING IT OFF (IT WON'T TURN ALL THE WAY TO THE OFF POSITION). RESTARTING THE CAR AND TURNING IT OFF AGAIN FREQUENTLY DOESN'T HELP.

DRIVING TO WORK ON THE HIGHWAY AND THE WINDSHIELD JUST POPPED AND CRACKED. LITTLE SHARDS OF GLASS FLEW ONTO THE DASHBOARD. HAPPENED UNDER THE DRIVERS SIDE WIPER.

NOTICING WHEN I PARK MY CAR THE KEY WON'T RELEASE FROM IGNITION SWITCH WHEN CAR LEVER IS SET IN "P" POSITION. AS I PUSH IN AND TURN THE KEY FROM START TO LOCK THE KEY WILL STAY ACC POSITION WON'T GO INTO LOCK.

KEY GETS STUCK IN IGNITION. SENSOR IN STEERING COLUMN DOES NOT RECOGNIZE THAT THE CAR IS IN PARK. MUST "SLAM" THE SHIFTER INTO PARK IN ORDER TO REMOVE THE KEY.

ABOUT ONCE A WEEK FOR AT LEAST THE PAST YEAR, THE STARLINK SCREEN FREEZES IN EITHER A BLANK SCREEN OR THE SCREEN GIVING CHOICES BETWEEN CD, FM, ETC. MUSIC WILL PLAY BUT NONE OF THE BUTTONS WILL WORK. I HAVE DISCOVERED THAT IF I HOLD DOWN THE ON/OFF BUTTON FOR ABOUT 15 SECONDS OR SO, IT WILL BEEP AND GO BACK TO NORMAL. IT HAPPENS WHEN THE VEHICLE IS FIRST TURNED ON AND IS STATIONARY.

THE FRONT PASSENGER WINDOW DOES NOT ALWAYS FULLY CLOSE. SOMETIMES WHEN I'M CLOSING IT, THE WINDOW GOES ALL THE WAY TO THE TOP AND THEN GOES DOWN ABOUT HALFWAY AND STAYS THERE. THE ONLY WAY I AM ABLE TO GET IT MOSTLY CLOSED IS WHEN I AM AT A STOP, I HAVE ONE HAND ON THE WINDOW LOCK BUTTON AND THE OTHER ON THE WINDOW CLOSE BUTTON. I HOLD DOWN THE CLOSE BUTTON UNTIL THE WINDOW IS ALMOST ALL OF THE WAY UP AND THEN HIT THE WINDOW LOCK BUTTON SO THAT THE WINDOW REMAINS SHUT MOST OF THE WAY. BY THE TIME I RESTART THE CAR, I UNLOCK THE WINDOW LOCK BUTTON AND AM ABLE TO CLOSE THE WINDOW NORMALLY. THE WINDOW NOT CLOSING OCCURS AT A STOP OR WHEN THE CAR IS MOVING.

KEY STUCK IN IGNITION UPON PARKING THE CAR. VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY (IN PARKING POSITION).

KEY INTERMITTENTLY DOES NOT COME OUT OF IGNITION WHEN PARKED. THIS IS A WELL KNOWN ISSUE WITH A TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN ISSUED BY SUBARU. THIS CAN BE A SAFETY ISSUE. WHY HAS A RECALL NOT BEEN ISSUED FOR THIS?

MY KEY GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION, WHILE IN PARK. STEERING COLUMN DOES NOT LOCK. TOOK TO THE DEALER. I KNOW THIS IS AN ISSUE WITH SOME OF THE FORRESTERS AND I LOOKED ONLINE APPARENTLY OTHER 2016 & 2017 MODEL SUBARUS HAVE HAD THE SAME ISSUE. I SEE A SERVICE BULLETIN 16 112 18R, BUT IT DOES NOT COVER MY VEHICLE.

ON MY WAY TO WORK I HEARD A LOUD POP! LIKE A ROCK HIT MY WINDSHIELD. NEVER SAW A PIT OR ANY EVIDENCE. PULLED OUT OF THE GARAGE THERE WAS A CRACK COMING FROM THE BOTTOM OF PASSENGER SIDE UP THE WINDOW. NOW THE CRACK HAS SPREAD OUT LIKE NOTHING I HAVE EVER SEEN.

DRIVER IS UNABLE TO TURN KEY BACK TO THE LOCK POSITION AND REMOVE KEY FROM THE IGNITION WHEN VEHICLE IS STATIONARY. CAR (SUBARU OUTBACK 2016) WAS PLACED IN PARK PRIOR TO ATTEMPTING TO TURN OFF THE ENGINE. DRIVER MUST FORCEFULLY MOVE STICK TO PARKED POSITION, FIRMLY PUSH KEY IN, AND TURN SWIFTLY TO REMOVE KEY. DRIVER MAY HAVE TO ATTEMPT THIS MANEUVER FOR SEVERAL MINUTES BEFORE SUCCESSFULLY REMOVING KEY. FAULTY COMPONENT IS UNKNOWN BUT IS OFTEN THE PARK-RANGE SWITCH BASED ON TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN 16-112-18R. AT TIME OF WRITING THIS COMPLAINT, THE DRIVER HAS EXPERIENCED THIS ISSUE AT LEAST 10 TIMES OVER THE COURSE OF 2 WEEKS.

UNABLE TO REMOVE IGNITION KEY FROM THE STEERING COLUMN. VEHICLE IS PUT INTO PARK, KEY IS TURNED OFF, KEY WILL NOT TURN ALL THE WAY AND STOPS AT THE ACCESSORY POINT. HAS BEEN HAPPENING FOR THE PAST MONTH, SEEMS TO BE GETTING WORSE. MOVE THE SHIFTER BACK AND FORTH FROM PARK INTO GEAR AND BACK INTO PARK UNTIL THE KEY RELEASES.

ON MULTIPLE OCCASIONS WHILE PARKED FOR ONLY A FEW HOURS. THE BATTERY VOLTAGE HAS DROPPED TO A LEVEL THAT REQUIRED THE VEHICLE TO BE JUMP STARTED. THE VEHICLE HAS NO AFTERMARKET DEVICES.

SHIFTER ASSEMBLY PROBLEM. LESS THAN 50000 MILES ON CAR AND CAR WON'T SHIFT INTO PARK! READING OTHER COMPLAINTS OF SAME PROBLEM SEEMS LIKE IT'S A DEFAULT ASSEMBLY! *TR

THIS IS THE FOURTH WINDSHIELD TO CRACK ON US IN AN OUTBACK. THE FIRST TWO WINDSHIELDS CRACKED IN A 2015 OUTBACK. SUBARU HAD TO BUY BACK THAT CAR DUE TO AN IMPROPERLY INSTALLED WINDSHIELD THAT FLOODED THE CAR. THEY GAVE US 2016 OUTBACK IN ITS PLACE. GUESS WHAT, THE 2016 OUTBACK WINDSHIELD HAS CRACKED TWICE. THE FIRST CRACK WAS SEVERAL MONTHS AFTER ITS PURCHASE AND OCCURRED SPONTANEOUSLY WHILE DRIVING. THE DEALERSHIP CLAIMED A PEBBLE HIT BECAUSE THEY COULD SEE A CHIP. THIS IS DESPITE THE FACT THAT A PEBBLE NEVER TOUCHED THE CAR. OVER THE NEXT FEW DAYS THE CRACK SPREAD ACROSS THE WINDSHIELD. SUBARU REPLACED THE WINDSHIELD. WELL, THE NEW WINDSHIELD HAS CRACKED AGAIN. THEY ARE ALSO CLAIMING IT IS DUE TO A PEBBLE AND ARE REFUSING TO REPLACE IT THIS TIME. THEY ARE CLAIMING IT IS NOT IN THE LOCATION THAT THEIR MEMO STATES IS PART OF THE...

WITH CAR STATIONARY, ENGINE OFF AND CAR IN PARK, KEYED IGNITION WILL NOT TURN TO LOCK POSITION OR RELEASE KEY. THIS HAS HAPPENED REPEATEDLY FOR TWO WEEKS, OFTEN MORE THAN ONCE A DAY, FROM 3/10/2019 AND CONTINUING THROUGH YESTERDAY, THE LAST TIME THE CAR WAS DRIVEN.

FEBRUARY 28, 2019. CRACKING FRONT WINDSHIELD AT THE DE-ICER / DEFROSTER AREA. THIS WAS NOT FROM ROADWAY ROCK CHIPPING. VEHICLE WAS ON DRIVEWAY WARMING UP AND DEFROSTING. AFTER, NOW FIVE DAYS THE CRACK HAS SPREAD COMPLETELY ACROSS THE LOWER HALF OF THE FRONT WINDSHIELD.

I HAD AN ACCIDENT @ 5PM-ENTERING A BUSY ROAD FROM A DRIVEWAY-HIT THE SIDE DOOR OF A CAR RACING LEFTTORIGHT IN FRONT OF ME. MY FAULT OF COURSE. I HEARD NO BEEP WARNING FROM THE SO-CALLED COLLISION MITIGATION SYSEM (?), NOR DID I FEEL ANY BRAKING. SUBSEQUENTLY I TESTED THIS FEATURE IN MY DRIVEWAY WHERE I SLOWLY DROVE THE CAR FORWARD TOWARD MY LARGE GARAGE, I WOULD HAVE HIT THE GARAGE-NO BEEP-NO BRAKING. THEN, IN A SNOW STORM, I HAD TO BRAKE SOASTO NOT HIT A LARGE TRUCK SKIDDING IN FRONT OF ME. I MISSED HITTING HIM BY INCHES. AGAIN, I HEARD NO BEEP AND FELT NO BRAKING. DEALER TESTED THIS FEATURE ON MY CAR BY LETTING IT GO TOWARDS BRUSHES IN A CARWASH, I HEARD BEEP WARNING, BUT AGAIN FELT NO BRAKING. DEALER SAID SYSTEM IS WORKING PROPERLY. AND SO-I CONCLUDE THAT WHENEVER I HEAR ANY KIND OF WARNING...

KEY IS STUCK IN IGNITION WHEN CAR IT TURNED OFF AND WILL NOT COME OUT. DRIVER HAS TO SLAM THE GEAR SHIFT INTO PARK TO GET IT TO RELEASE MULTIPLE TIMES. SEEMS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM BASED ON INTERNET RESEARCH

KEY GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION. CAN'T REMOVE THE KEY REGARDLESS OF PUSHING, TURNING, PUTTING PARKING BREAK ON, PARKING BREAK OFF. HAVE BEEN STUCK WITH ROAD SIDE ASSISTANCE FOUR TIMES THIS BLACK FRIDAY WEEKEND. SO WRONG. READ SEVERAL OTHER COMPLAINTS CONCERNING THIS ISSUE AND STEERING WHEEL ISSUES. SUBARU SHOULD RECALL THE 2016 OUTBACK PREZ 2.5I AND PREMIUM 2.5I. DUDS FOR IGNITIONS. SAFETY ISSUE WHILE TRAVELING AND SAFETY ISSUE IF CAR CAN'T BE LEFT UNATTENDED. HAVE TO WAIT UNTIL MONDAY MORNING TO SEE IF I CAN GET AN APPOINTMENT TO GET IT FIXED SO I CAN MAKE IT HOME SAFELY AND GET THE KEY OUT OF THE IGNITION WHEN I GET THERE. LOVE SCOOBY BUT THIS SERIOUSLY STINKS.

WINDSHIELD. WINDSHIELD HAS SPONTANEOUSLY CRACKED ON THE PASSENGER EDGE TWICE. NOV 2017 I WAS TOLD THE SMALLEST PEBBLES CAUSED THE PIN HOLE WHICH MADE MY WINDSHIELD CRACK. NOVEMBER 2018 WE EXPERIENCED LOW 30 TEMPS AND WHEN THE TEMPS RAISED BACK TO 50S MY WINDSHIELD SPONTANEOUSLY CRACKED AGAIN. IN THE EXACT SAME SPOT. ONCE AGAIN DEALERSHIP IS CLAIMING A SMALL PEBBLE HAS CAUSED THIS DAMAGE. I CAN'T BUY THAT A PEBBLE WOULD HIT THE EXACT SAME SPOT AND CAUSE THE WINDSHIELD TO CRACK THE EXACT SAME WAY TWICE. I HAVE BEEN RESEARCHING THIS ISSUE AND IT SEEMS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM AMONG OUTBACKS OF THIS YEAR.

THERE WAS A PROBLEM REMOVING THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION. TOOK IT TO THE DEALER AND THEY SAID THERE WAS A KNOWN PROBLEM WITH THE SHIFTER ASSEMBLY.

WINDSHIELD CRACKED FOR NO REASON DURING WARM SUMMER DAY. I HAVE SEEN OTHER SIMILAR COMPLAINTS ON LINE. IT IS IN THE SAME LEFT CORNER AREA AND STARTS AS A SMALL CIRCULAR INDENTATION AND GROWS WITHIN HOURS. NOTHING HIT OR CAME INTO CONTACT WITH WINDSHIELD