2010 DODGE JOURNEY Power Train Problems

The contact owns a 2010 Dodge Journey. The contact stated that while driving at various speeds, the throttle warning light would flash on the instrument panel as the vehicle would either stall or go into limp mode. The contact also stated that the vehicle would fail to start up after multiple attempts without warning. The contact had taken the vehicle to an independent mechanic where the ECU, suspension, and several various electrical components were replaced; however, the failure persisted. The manufacturer had been notified of the failure and offered no assistance. The vehicle had yet to be repaired. The failure mileage was approximately 70,000.

WAS DRIVING AT APPROXIMATELY 30 MILES AN HOUR ON A TURNING ROAD ONTO A HIGHWAY AND VEHICLE SHUT OFF. LOST ALL POWER STEERING AND BRAKES WERE HARD. HAD TO IMMEDIATELY GET OVER TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD TO AVOID TRAFFIC COMING FROM THE REAR AS I LOST LIGHTS AS WELL AND MAY NOT HAVE BEEN SEEN AS IT WAS DARK AND THE VEHICLE IS BLACK. WHEN PULLED OVER I PUT THE VEHICLE IN PARK AND ATTEMPTED TO RESTART. AFTER THE 2ND TIME TURNING THE KEY IT STARTED. NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS ARE PRESENT ON THE CAR OTHER THAN A TPMS SENSOR.

AUTOMATIC GEAR FAILS CAUSING DELAYS ON SHIFTING AND UNINTENDED ACCELERATION.

THE VEHICLE WILL ONLY START WHILE PUT INTO NEUTRAL, WHEN IT DESIRES, THIS DOES NOT WORK ALL THE TIME. HAVE BEEN TOLD BY SEVERAL MECHANICS AND THE DEALER THAT IT IS A ONGOING PROBLEM WITH THE NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH IN 2009 AND 2010 DODGE JOURNEYS, BECAUSE THE SWITCH BECOMES LOOSE AND NEEDS ADJUSTMENTS EVERY FEW MONTHS. THIS HAS RESULTED IN MYSELF BEING STRANDED SEVERAL MILES FROM HOME IN A HEAT ADVISORY, THAT RESULTED IN HEAT STROKE, FROM NOT BEING ABLE TO GET ACCESS TO A COOL PLACE WITH FLUIDS AS THE VEHICLE LEFT ME STRANDED FOR SEVERAL HOURS AWAITING HELP. TOW TRUCK DRIVER TOOK NOTE OF THE VEHICLE MAKE AND MODEL AN KNEW EXACTLY WHAT THE PROBLEM WAS AN PLACED IT IN NEUTRAL AND IT STARTED RIGHT UP, WAS ADVISED TO CONTACT AND REPORT A SAFETY ISSUE WITH THE VEHICLE.

HOT OIL LIGHT CAR WAS MOVING THE HOT OIL LIGHT CAME ON CAR WOULD START FOR TWO HOURS IN PARKING LOT POWER TRAIN MODULE HAD TO BE REPLACE. *TR

VEHICLE RANDOMLY SHUTS OFF WHEN DRIVING IT TRANSMISSION SEEMS TO HAVE WIRING SENSOR ISSUE JERKS RANDOMLY CAR REPEATEDLY SAYS NEEDS OIL CHANGE WHEN IT DOESN'T AND THERE ARE NO LEAKS

HORN BLEW INTERMITTENTLY AT FIRST WHEN SHUTTING DOORS, AND OCCASIONALLY FOR NO REASON. WINDOWS WOULD GO DOWN PART WAY WHEN DOORS WERE SHUT. IGNITION WOULD SOMETIMES JUST CLICK CLICK WHEN KEY IS TURNED, WIPERS WOULD MOVE WHEN NOT ENGAGED TO BE ON. BATTERY WOULD GO COMPLEXLY DEAD FOR NO REASON AND THEN BE OK FOR A MONTH OR TWO AND THEN DO IT AGAIN. HAD TO DISCONNECT THE HORN A FEW YEARS AGO AS IT WOULD NOT STOP GOING OFF. HAS BEEN IN TO KAYER CHRYSLER, DODGE SERVICE SEVERAL TIMES AND THEY COULD NOT FIND ISSUE. THEY JUST CALLED AND SAID THEY FOUNSD. SHORT IN THE MAIN ELECTRICAL COMPONENT AND IT WILL COST $1100PLUS FOR PART AND UP TO $200 TO INSTALL. WE HAVE HAD THESE ISSUES SINCE WE BOUGHT IT. OH YEH HEAT AND AIR ON PASSENGER SIDE QUIT WORKING A FEW WINTERS AGO, AND THE DOORS FILL WITH...

AS I WAS DRIVING I TIRED TO TURN THE WHEEL TO GO AROUND A SMALL CURVE ON A CITY STREET AND IT WOULDN'T TURN. I COULD FEEL THE CAR STARING TO DIE. AS I PUT THE CAR IN PARK TO TURN THE IGNITION OFF THE BREAK PEDAL WOULD NOT WORK. I WAS ABLE TO TURN THE CAR OFF AND RESTART WITHOUT ANY ISSUES. LATER MY HORN STARTED HONKING ON ITS OWN. AND CONTINUES TO HONK RANDOMLY. ALSO THE ALARM RANDOMLY WENT OFF ONCE YESTERDAY. TODAY IT HAS RANDOMLY HONKED ALL AFTERNOON.

AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION GEAR SHIFT BECAME PROGRESSIVELY HARD TO SHIFT INTO GEAR. IT THEN LOCKED INTO PARK AND I HAD TO OPEN THE ACCESS AREA TO RELEASE THE LOCKING MECHANISM. I TOOK IT TO MY INDEPENDENT CAR REPAIR EXPERT AND HAD TO REPLACE THE CABLE TO THE GEAR BOX. THERE IS A LOT OF LABOR INVOLVED IN REPLACEMENT AND WAS A $484.70 REPAIR. WHEN I CALLED THE DODGE DEALER THEY TOLD ME IT WOULD BE BETWEEN $600-$700 TO REPLACE THE CABLE BECAUSE OF THE AMOUNT OF LABOR, SO I HAD MY INDEPENDENT REPAIR SHOP REPLACE IT. IT IS NOW IN PERFECT WORKING ORDER. MY REPAIR SHOP SAID THIS ISSUE SHOULD NEVER HAVE HAPPENED, AND THAT THE ISSUE IS CAUSED BY WHERE THE CABLE IS PLACED AND NOT PROTECTED WELL.

AT TIMES MY VEHICLE WILL NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 35-40 MPH. ONCE IT REACHED THIS SPEED THE VEHICLE SHAKES UNCONTROLLABLY. THIS HAS HAPPENED ON BOTH CITY STREETS AND THE HIGHWAY. I HAD TO IMMEDIATELY GET OFF OF THE HIGHWAY. IT IS VERY UNSAFE WITH A CHILD IN THE CAR AND I AM AFRAID TO DRIVE THE VEHICLE.

THIS VEHICLE HAS HAD MULTIPLE ISSUES. STARTER SOUNDS LIKE IT'S STICKING AT START OF ENGINE THIS HAS ALWAYS BEEN A PROBLEM SINCE WE GOT THE VEHICLE. IN 2018 I HAD TO REPLACE THE BATTERY AND THE ALTERNATOR BECAUSE THE CAR WOULD SHUT OFF WHILE DRIVING, AT ONE POINT WITH MY 5YR OLD DAUGHTER EXITING THE FREEWAY(A VERY SCARY AND EXTREMELY UNSAFE EXPERIENCE) REPLACED WATER PUMP AND TOP FRONT HOSE AFTER I FOUND PUDDLE OF FLUID FROM COOLANT TANK. OTHER WORK DONE ,REPLACED CV JOINTS, LOUD CLICKING WHEN SHARP TURNS WERE MADE AND SHOCKS AND STRUTS REPLACED. THEN ALL OF A SUDDEN THE CAR SHUTS OFF WHILE DRIVING AS IT DID BEFORE ALTERNATOR WAS FIXED. NOW I'M EXPERIENCING MORE ELECTRICAL ISSUES LIGHTS TURNING ON AND OFF ON THEIR OWN, AC WILL BLOW AIR SOME TIMES AND OTHER TIMES NO AIR AT ALL. THE TRACTION LIGHT COMES ON AND CAR WILL NOT...

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 DODGE JOURNEY. WHILE BACKING OUT OF A PARKING SPACE, THE VEHICLE SHUT DOWN AND WAS RESTARTED. THE FAILURE RECURRED WHILE THE CONTACT WAS DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 50 MPH. THERE WAS NO WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED. THE CONTACT CALLED AL SERRA CHRYSLER DODGE JEEP RAM AT 810-202-0890 (LOCATED AT 6185 S SAGINAW ST, GRAND BLANC, MI 48439) AND WAS INFORMED TO BRING THE VEHICLE IN FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE AND PROVIDED A CASE NUMBER. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 112,000.

I HAVE REPLACED THE ALTERNATOR TWICE SINCE WE BOUGHT IT. BUT THE ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON , THE AND LIGHT COMES ON AND THE TRACTION LIGHT COMES ON. SOMETIMES THE JUST FLASH OFF AND ON. THEN THE NEXT TWO TO THREE DAYS THESE LIGHTS ARE PERSISTENTLY ON AND THE CAR DOES NOT WANT TO GO OVER 20 TO 30 MILES PER HOUR. TWO OF THE FOUR CYLINDERS SEEMS TO BE "MISFIRING" OR NOT FIRING AT ALL. ALL THESE THINGS ARE OBVIOUSLY HAPPENING WHEN YOU ARE DRIVING THE VEHICLE. AND SOMETIMES WHEN YOU ARE COMING TO A STOP SIGN OF TRAFFIC LIGHT, THE VEHICLE WILL JUST SHUTDOWN. THEN YOU HAVE TO TRY AND JUMP IT OFF FOR IT TO CRANK AGAIN....IF IT WILL CRANK AT ALL. HAD TO TOW IT TO A GARAGE FOR REPAIR ON MARCH 24, 2019. REPLACED THE BATTERY, ALTERNATOR(FOR THE SECOND TIME), AND SPARK PLUGS.

DRIVING ALONG AND CUT OFF. NO BREAKS AND NO STEERING WITH MY CHILDREN IN THE VEHICLE ON THE INTERSTATE. THIS ISSUE HAPPENED ON MORE THAN TWO OCCASIONS.

THE VEHICLES BATTERY DRAINS OVERNIGHT WITH NOTHING LEFT ON. THE HORN GOES OFF ON ITS OWN WEATHER THE VEHICLES IS IN MOTION OR PARKED. THE VEHICLES CUT OFF IN THE MIDDLE OF THE FREEWAY AND MECHANIC GUY CAN NOT FIND ANYTHING WRONG. I HAVE SEEN MANY COMPLAINTS FROM CUSTOMERS WITH SAME PROBLEM ON OTHER PLATFORMS ONLINE.

KEY CAN BE TURNED OFF, AND OUT, BUT WILL NOT KILL THE ENGINE, OR LIGHTS. IGNITION SWITCH MODULE REPLACEMENT THROUGH DEALER, AND REPROGRAMMING IS THE ONLY WAY TO FIX IT. SEEN A RECALL FOR THIS PROBLEM BUT DEALER TELLS ME MY CAR IS NOT ON THE LIST. I TURN MY CAR OFF PULL THE KEY OUT, AND I AM STILL ABLE TO DRIVE MY CAR AS IF THE KEY WAS IN IT.

ON HOT DAYS CAR BEGAN LEAKING AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID FROM ASSUMED VENT ON TOP OF CABLE SHIFTER LINKAGE. CAR WAS SITTING AND NOT DRIVEN IN A APPROXIMATELY 3 DAYS AND WAS POSITIONED IN A FORWARD INCLINE. DIP STICK SHOWED HIGH ON THE FILL TUBE ABOVE HASH MARKS. ALSO HORN BLARING WITHOUT TOUCHING. REGARDLESS IF SOMEONE IS IN THE CAR OR NOT. THE HORN WILL GO OFF ALL TIMES OF DAY OR NIGHT. IT IS A HONK. HONK....HOOOOOONK.....HOOOOOOOONK. BEST WAY TO DESCRIBE IT IS SOMEONE IS ANGRY OR AN EMERGENCY IS TAKING PLACE AND OTHER DRIVERS NEED TO MOVE. IT IS RANDOM ON WHEN THIS WILL HAPPEN

I HAVE A 2010 DODGE JOURNEY BOUGHT IT A WEEK AGO WITH 108K MILES AFTER I BROUGHT IT HOME HORN WOULD GO OFF BY ITSELF HAD TO PULL THE FUSES OUT TO GET IT TO STOP AND NOW RECENTLY WHEN TRYING TO ACCELERATE THE RPM WILL GO TO 5000 AT A SPEED OF 40 MPH AND WON'T SHIFT AND IT WILL COST ME A FORTUNE TO GET IT DIAGNOSED AND REPAIRED

TAKATA RECALL CAR SHUTS DOWN WHEN JARRED OR QUICK STOP. ALSO GAS PEDAL SOMETIMES LAGS FOR POWER.

I'VE HAD ELECTRICAL PROBLEM EVER SINCE I BOUGHT THIS CAR THE HORN GOES OFF RANDOMLY THE FOB DOESN'T WORK ANY OF THE LOCKS AND SOMETIMES WON'T START MY CAR TRANSMISSION JUMPS GEARS HEATER VENT MAKES WEIRD NOISE BASICALLY THIS CAR HAS SO MANY ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS IT DRAINS MY BATTERY EVERY OTHER DAY I REALLY CAN'T PIN POINT BECAUSE IT HAS DIFFERENT ISSUES I'M AFRAID TO GO ANYWHERE BECAUSE I NEVER KNOW IF IT WILL START BACK UP THAT'S ANOTHER THING IT SHUTS OFF AS IF I TURNED THE KEY OFF AS I'M DRIVING OR COME TO A STOP TOOK IT IN SPENT

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 DODGE JOURNEY. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 30 MPH, THE VEHICLE PULLED AND CAUSED HESITATION WHILE ATTEMPTING TO ACCELERATE. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE GEARS HESITATED TO SHIFT. THE CONTACT SMELLED BURNING WIRES EMITTING FROM THE VEHICLE. THE CHECK ENGINE WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED FOR APPROXIMATELY THREE WEEKS AND THEN DIMMED. RECENTLY, THE CHECK OIL AND CHECK ENGINE WARNING INDICATORS REMAINED ILLUMINATED. THE CONTACT TOOK THE VEHICLE TO A CERTIFIED MECHANIC WHO WAS UNABLE TO REPAIR THE VEHICLE. THE MANUFACTURER PROVIDED CASE NUMBER: 31647063. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 128,400.

ESP, BAS, & TRACTION LIGHTS ON CAN'T TAKE OUT OF PARK. DEALERSHIP REPLACED TIPM ($1200) NEXT MORNING LIGHTS COME BACK ON & ONCE STOPPED, CAN'T TAKE OUT OF PARK. WHEN STARTING VEHICLE, I HAVE TO HURRY & PUT IN REVERSE BEFORE ALL DIALS ARE REGISTERING & SAFE TO DRIVE, OTHERWISE ESP, BAS. & TRACTION LIGHTS WILL BE ON & I'M NOT ABLE TO TAKE OUT OF PARK.

TRANSMISSION SHIFTING IS ROUGH AND IT SCARES MY WIFE TO DRIVE THE CAR. IT HAS 68,000 MILES AND IS MAINTAINED REGULARLY. WE JUST PAID IT OFF AND NOW I FEAR SOMETHING MAJOR IS GOING TO FAIL. I READ AN ARTICLE THAT THERE IS A REPROGRAM OF THE POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE THAT FIXES THIS, BUT CANNOT FIND A TSB TO TAKE TO THE DEALER.

AT 52K MILES MY DODGE JOURNEY HAD TO HAVE THE TRANSMISSION REBUILT. IT ALWAYS SEEMED TO SLIP, BUT ONCE THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND BIGGER PROBLEMS BECAME APPARENT THE ONLY OPTION WAS TO HAVE THE TRANSMISSION REBUILT.

I HAVE NOT KEPT TRACK OF SPECIFIC DATES, HOWEVER I NOW PLAN ON DOING SO. SINCE I'VE PURCHASED THIS CAR I'VE HAD ISSUES WITH IT STARTING. OF COURSE I TAKE IT BACK TO THE DEALER WHERE I'M TOLD THEY CAN'T FIND ANYTHIGNG WRONG WITH IT, THE SECOND TIME I'M TOLD IT JUST NEEDED A SOFTWARE UPDATE, AND THE THIRD I DECIDED TO TAKE IT SOMEWHERE ELSE. I KNOW IT'S NOT THE STARTED, BATTERY, ALTERNATOR, OR FUEL PUMP. I'VE BEEN TOLD IT HAS TO BE ELECTRICAL OR A SOFTWARE ISSUES. BASICALLY EITHER DODGE KNOWS WHAT THE ISSUE IS AND IS LYING OR THEY REALLY HAVE NO IDEA. EITHER WAY I PAY A LOT TO HAVE A REALIABLE CAR AND IT'S REALLY FRUSTRATING TO GO INTO THE GROCERY STORE COME OUT AND MY CAR DOESN'T WANT TO START, OR HAVE TO LEAVE FOR WORK AND END UP BEING LATE BECAUSE AGAIN MY...

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 DODGE JOURNEY. WHILE DRIVING 55 MPH, THE VEHICLE STALLED. THE FAILURE OCCURRED ON MULTIPLE OCCASIONS. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER WHO WAS UNABLE TO DIAGNOSE THE FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 99,000.

I FIRST BOUGHT THE DODGE JOURNEY IN MARCH 2015 USED FROM A DEALERSHIP. 2 MONTHS LATER I START SEEING PROBLEMS: -WHEN I LOCK THE VEHICLE, OCCASIONALLY AFTER SITTING FOR A LONG TIME I WILL COME OUT AND THE WINDOWS WILL ALL BE DOWN AND THE VEHICLE UNLOCKED -I HAVE HAD MANY OCCASIONS WHERE I TRY TO START THE VEHICLE AND IT JUST CLICKS. I HAVE TO MOVE THE SHIFTER FROM PARK TO NEUTRAL (SOMETIMES SEVERAL TIMES FOR SEVERAL MINUTES) TO GET THE VEHICLE TO START. I DO NOT WANT TO GET STRANDED WITH THIS VEHICLE!! -PASSENGER WINDOW WILL SOMETIMES NOT ROLL DOWN USING THE PASSENGER SIDE WINDOW BUTTON BUT OPERATES NORMALLY USING DRIVER SIDE CONTROLS THERE SEEMS TO BE MANY ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS WITH THIS VEHICLE AND I FEAR THAT WE WILL END UP IN A CRASH RELATED TO ELECTRICAL FAILURE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 DODGE JOURNEY. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE DIP STICK FOR THE TRANSMISSION LEAKED AFTER THE ENGINE WAS RUNNING FOR MORE THAN 70 MILES AND FULLY HEATED UP. THE TRANSMISSION FLUID BOILED AND CAME UP THE TOP OF THE DIP STICK AND LEAKED DOWN AROUND THE ENGINE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE OTHER LEAKS WERE REPAIRED, BUT THIS ONE REMAINED AN ISSUE. THE MANUFACTURER GAVE THEM A THREE YEAR EXTENDED WARRANTY BECAUSE OF THE LEAKS, BUT TOLD THE CONTACT THEY WOULD DO NO MORE REPAIRS TO THE VEHICLE AFTER THAT. THE VEHICLE HAD NOT CAUGHT FIRE, BUT THE TRANSMISSION FLUID LEAKED ONTO THE MANIFOLD. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 20,000.

I BOUGHT MY CAR DECEMBER OF 2010 AND SINCE OWNING IT HAS BEEN NOTHING BUT ISSUES. I DID HAVE SOME THINGS FIXED RIGHT AFTER PURCHASE AND OTHERS THEY SAID THEY SAW NO ISSUE. MY VEHICLE KEEPS LOOSING COOLANT AND WAS OVERHEATING WHICH NOT BURNT MY RESERVOIR, MY CAR DOESN'T ALWAYS START WHICH HAS HAPPENED SINCE I PURCHASED, DOOR LOCK DOESN'T WORK ON DRIVER DOOR, AND HORN WAS SOUNDING WHILE DRIVING AND ALARM WAS CONSTANTLY GOING OFF UNTIL I REMOVED FUSE, AND FUSE BOX ALWAYS HAS A CLICKING NOISE. I AM NOT THE ONLY ONE WITH ISSUES WITH THIS VEHICLE I HAVE SEEN MANAU WITH SIMILAR ISSUES AND THEY ARE ALL EXTREMELY DANGEROUS ESPECIALLY WITH CHILDREN IN THE CAR. ALSO MY CAR MADE A TERRIBLE GROWLING NOISE AND I HAD TRANSMISSION REPLACED. PLEASE HELP GET THESE INVESTIGATED IT'S TERRIBLE. NEVER AGAIN WILL I PURCHASE A DODGE OR ADVISE ANYONE TO DO...

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 DODGE JOURNEY. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE FAILED TO START AND THE STEERING WHEEL STARTED TO SHAKE EXCESSIVELY. THE CONTACT MENTIONED THAT THE ESC AND TRACTION CONTROL LIGHTS ILLUMINATED ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL. ALSO, THE CONTACT MENTIONED THAT THE SHIFT LEVER BECAME STUCK IN THE PARK POSITION. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 54,000.

WE PULLED OUT OF A PARKING LOT ONTO A PRIMARY ROAD AND AS SOON AS WE STEPPED ON THE GAS A LOUD SOUND OCCURRED. WE THOUGHT WE WERE HIT FROM BEHIND. THEN ALL THE DASHBOARD LIGHTS STARTED FLASHING. THE ENGINE WAS OVERHEATING AND WE COULD NOT GO OVER 15MPH. WE PULLED INTO THE NEXT PARKING LOT. WE TURNED OFF THE CAR AND WAITED FOR 10 MINUTES FOR IT TO COOL. WE STARTED IT AGAIN AND TRIED TO DRIVE BUT COULD NOT GO OVER 15 MPH. I BROUGHT THE CAR IN IMMEDIATELY TO THE DEALER AND 4 DAYS LATER I WAS CALLED THE SERVICE TECH SAID IT WAS THE PCM AND IT WOULD BE REPLACED UNDER WARRANTY. AFTER THE PCM WAS REPLACED THEY CALLED AGAIN AND SAID THE CAR IS STILL NOT RUNNING AND THEY TESTED IT WITH A CARAVAN TIPM AND IT IS A TIPM PROBLEM AND I NEEDED TO...

VEHICLE WAS RUNNING AND SUDDENLY LOST ALL ELECTRICAL POWER. CAR WAS MOVED TO SHOULDER OF ROADWAY AND I TURNED THE ENGINE OFF. THE ENGINE DIDN'T WANT TO RESTART. WHEN ENGINE DID RESTART CAR RAN NORMAL FOR ABOUT 1 MONTH. THIS HAS HAPPENED ABOUT 5 TIMES FROM 6/13 TO 10/14. DEALER CAN NOT FIND THE PROBLEM. IGNITION IS NOT ON RECALL LIST FOR THIS PARTICULAR VIN. I HAD DEALER REPLACE IGNITION ON 10/14 AND HAD TO PURCHASE TWO ADDITIONAL KEYS BECAUSE THE OLD KEYS COULD NOT BE PROGRAMMED TO THE NEW IGNITION SWITCH. *TR

CAR WAS PARKED AND I THOUGHT A NEIGHBOR WAS HONKING THEIR HORN FOR QUITE AWHILE, IT STOPPED, BUT A LITTLE WHILE AFTER THAT I WAS WALKING BY THE CAR AND IT JUST STARTED BEEPING. NOT SOLID BEEPING BUT LIKE IT WAS TRYING TO GET MY ATTENTION. ALSO THE CAR IS SLOW TO START (LIKE A DEAD BATTERY) BUT I JUST INSTALLED A NEW BATTERY AND THE TRANSMISSION HAS BEEN BANGING HARD SINCE THE FIRST DAY I GOT IT. I HAD IT IN A NUMBER OF TIMES FOR THE PROBLEM, BUT IT WOULD NOT DO IT WITH THEM IN THE CAR. *TR

HAVE A COMPLAINT ABOUT MY 2010 DODGE JOURNEY SE. FOR THE LAST TWO MONTHS IT HAS BEEN AN ONGOING ISSUE. I HAD THE STARTER REPLACED, THE WIN MODULE REPLACED. PROBLEM WENT AWAY FOR A FEW WEEKS. THEN CAME BACK. IT HAS BEEN NO STARTING ON AND OFF THE LAST TWO WEEKS. EVERYTHING ELSE WORKS WHEN I TURN THE IGNITION. BUT NOTHING HAPPENS WITH THE ENGINE. AUGUST 26TH, 2014 I WENT TO PICK MY SON UP FROM DAYCARE. MY CAR WOULDN'T START. IT WOULDN'T START ALL EVENING. THEN THE FOLLOWING DAY IT STARTED AND I HAD MY FIANCE TAKE IT BECAUSE I AM NERVOUS AND UNCOMFORTABLE DRIVING MY CAR. AFTER MY FIANCE GOT OUT OF WORK THE CAR WOULDN'T START AND HE HAD TO LEAVE IT AT WORK. IT IS EFFECTING MY WORK AND MY PERSONAL LIFE. IT WAS SMOLDERING HOT OUT AND I WAS WITH MY SON. I CAN'T KEEP...

I PURCHASED MY 2010 DODGE JOURNEY IN 2011 EVER SINCE OF PURCHASING THIS VEHICLE. I HAVE HAD NOTHING BUT PROBLEMS WHEN I TAKE IT TO THE SERVICE DEPT AT THE.DOTHAN DODGE DEALER IN DOTHAN ALL NOTHING SEEMS TO BE UNDER WARRANTY I HAVE HAD OTHER MECHANICS LOOK AT MY VEHICLE AND HAVE SPECIFIED CERTAIN PROBLEMS I WILL NEVER RECOMMEND A DODGE TO ANYONE. *JS

EVERYTHING FIRST STARTED ABOUT 4 MONTHS AFTER PURCHASE WITH THE SENSOR LIGHTS RANDOMLY COMING ON WHILE I WAS DRIVING. I HAVE REPLACED BRAKES AND ROTORS 4 TIMES. BUT THE PROBLEMS WITHIN THE LAST 4 MONTHS HAVE BEEN THE WORST. MY CAR WILL NOT START ALL THE TIME VERY UNRELIABLE. I HAVE HAD TO REPLACE THE STARTER TWICE THE BATTERY TWO STARTER MODULES AND THE IGNITION AND STILL DOESN'T WORK. AS SOON AS IT'S POSSIBLE I WILL GET RID OF THIS CAR AND NEVER AGAIN AS LONG AS I LIVE WILL NEVER PURCHASE ANOTHER CHRYSLER PRODUCT. THEY ARE JUNK!!!! *TR

MY CAR HAD BROKEN DOWN IN OCTOBER. THE TRANSFER CASE IN THIS CAR WAS COMPLETELY SHOT, AND COULD NOT EVEN BE REPAIRED. THE DEALERSHIP WOULD NOT FIX IT UNDER WARRANTY. WHEN THE TRANSFER CASE BROKE, IT LEAKED FLUID ONTO THE EXHAUST ON MY CAR, AND WAS CATCHING FIRE. I WAS JUST ABLE TO GET MY CAR FIXED, AND PUT 400 MILES ON IT, WHEN IT HAPPENED AGAIN. THERE NEEDS TO BE A RECALL AS I HAVE SPOKEN WITH DEALERSHIPS WHO HAVE TOLD ME THAT THIS IS A RECURRING ISSUE. *TR

THE DODGE JOURNEY HAS A HISTORY OF TRANSMISSION FAULTS, LOUD AND NOISY AND ROUGH TRANSMISSION SHIFTS. WHILE SHIFTING INTO A GREAT IT WILL MAKE A LOUD THUD AND THE CAR WILL JERK. WE STARTED TO GET USED TO THIS AS IT HAS HAPPENED SINCE DAY 1. WE LET CHRYSLER KNOW ABOUT THIS AND APPARENTLY THIS IS "NORMAL." I HAVE NEVER HAD A SIMILAR ISSUE WITH ANY OTHER CAR SO TO ME IT IS NOT NORMAL. SO FAST FORWARD TO THIS PAST WEEKEND. WE WERE GOING TO TOW A FEW ITEMS AND DROP THEM OFF. SO EVERYTHING IS LOADED AND READY TO TOW, WE ARE ON A FLAT SURFACE WITH NO INCLINE AT ALL, START THE CAR UP AND PUT IT INTO DRIVE AND BAM! A LOUD NOISE WHILE WE TRIED TO PUT IT INTO GEAR. THE CAR WAS STILL RUNNING WHILE THIS HAPPENED AND WE STARTED TO ROLL BACKWARDS, WHILE...

THE TRANSMISSION WILL SHIFT FROM PARK INTO DRIVE WITH A LOUD CLANG AND JERK. THIS OCCURS WHEN YOU PULL UP AND STOP, TURN MOTOR OFF, RESTART AND PUT INTO DRIVE. THEN AT OTHER TIMES HESITATES TO SHIFT. BRAKES WILL PUSH THEMSELVES DOWN WITH NO PRESSURE GIVEN BY DRIVER. FRONT END ON UNEVEN PATCHES OF ROADWAY WILL THUMP AS THOUGHT IT IS LOOSE AND WOBBLE. *TR

THE BRAKES SHAKE BAD WHEN SLOWING FROM 40 MPH OR HIGHER NOTE FRONT ROTORS AND PADS WERE REPLACED AT 21956 MILES AFTER TWO TIMES IN THE SHOP AT A COST OF 50.00 BUT I AM HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM WITH THE REAR BRAKES WHEN THE CAR IS STOPPED FAST REAR BRAKES SHAKE CHRYSLER WILL NOT WARRANTY. THE TRANSMISSION HITS VERY HARD ABOUT 50% OF THE TIME WHEN SHIFTING INTO DRIVE FROM ANY OTHER STICK POSITION THIS IS CAUSING TRANSMISSION DAMAGE CHRYSLER IS AWARE OF THE PROBLEM THE DEALER SHOP MARK DODGE SHOWED ME AN EMAIL THEY GOT BACK FROM CHRYSLER AFTER THE SHOP FOREMAN NOTED THIS DEFECT WAS HAPPENING AND CONTACTED CHRYSLER ABOUT WHAT TO DO. THE RESPONSE FROM CHRYSLER WAS " [XXX] THIS HAS BEEN NOTED IN SEVERAL PRIOR CASES . AT THIS TIME IT IS CONSIDERED CHARACTERISTIC- [XXX] " SO A TRANSMISSION BANGING INTO GEAR IS CHARACTERISTIC. THIS...

1) I HAD THE FRONT BRAKES REPLACES AFTER OWNING THE CARE 7 DAYS. THE DEALER REPLACED THE FRONT RODARS AND BRAKE PADS. SIX WEEKS LATER I COMPLAINED OF THE METAL TO METAL SOUND FROM THE REAR BRAKES, BUT THE DEALER TOLD ME, "YOU CAN KEEP DRIVING THE CAR, IT'S OK FOR NOW". NOW THE BRAKES ARE TOTALLY GONE AND THE FRONT BRAKES ARE CAUSING THE CAR TO SHAKE WHEN YOU SLOW DOWN...AGAIN!! 2) THE CAR DOESN'T ALWAYS START. YOU HAVE TO CRANK THE KEY 4-5 TIMES BEFORE IT WILL START. THIS SEEMS TO BE IN INTERMITTENT PROBLEM. 3) THE TRANSMISSION JERKS INTO GEAR. 4) THE PLASTIC IN THE WHEEL WELL COMING OFF. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 DODGE JOURNEY. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING 65 MPH, THE GEAR SHIFTER SHIFTED INTO NEUTRAL INVOLUNTARILY. THE FAILURE WAS EXPERIENCED ON NUMEROUS OCCASIONS. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS WHERE THEY WERE UNABLE TO DIAGNOSE THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE HAD NOT BEEN REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 500 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 3,000. UPDATED 10/04/11*LJ UPDATED 10/26/11

I BOUGHT A 2010 DODGE JOURNEY AND HAVE HAD MANY ISSUE. FIRST THE ALIGNMENT HAS ALWAYS GONE TOWARDS THE RIGHT AND HAS BEEN IN THE SHOP TWICE AND THEY SAID IT WAS FINE. I HAVE ALWAYS HAD PROBLEMS WITH THE NAV AND COMPUTER MUSIC SYSTEM. THE NEWEST AND WORST ISSUE IS IN LESS THAN 2 WEEKS HAS STOPPED WHILE I WAS DRIVING. I TOOK IT IN THE FIRST TIME AND THE SERVICE SAID THEY REBOOTED THE COMPUTER AND IT WAS FINE. FEW DAYS LATER I WAS GOING 40 DOWN THE ROAD AND THE CAR SHUT OFF AGAIN. BOTH TIMES THE CAR IS IN DRIVE AND THE KEY IS IN. IT IS NOW BACK IN THE SHOP AND I AM AFRAID THE AIRBAGS ARE NOT GOING TO WORK. I AM AFRAID THAT I WILL BE HIT AND INJURED. I HAVE 4 YEAR OLD TWIN BOYS. DODGE/CHRYSLER IS NOT HELPFUL AT ALL....