2017 HONDA CR-V Structurebody Problems

Water collecting in rear hatch frame. Have to remove the two rubber grommets and move hatch up and down to remove water. hearing water in frame when opening hatch.

The rear windshield of the car exploded during a routine drive without any apparent cause. The car was inspected by a Montgomery County police officer and was driven to the local Honda dealership. The local Honda dealership could not offer any additional insights into the root cause of the incident.

Infotainment screen malfunction and safety issue. Also hood popped open twice while driving 65 mph causing damage.

MY REAR PASSENGER DOOR WILL NOT OPEN FROM OUTSIDE OR INSIDE. THIS POSES A HUGE SAFETY ISSUE!!! ALSO THE TAILGATE ONLY OPENS ON OCCASION!

While driving on the highway at 50 miles per hour, the tailgate opened by itself. The tailgate has opened by itself on five separate occasions, but three of them while the car was parked. Two of them while the car was moving. The first one at 15 mph and this second one at 50 mph.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 HONDA CR-V. THE CONTACT STATED THAT RODENTS WERE ABLE TO ENTER THE CABIN AIR FILTER AREA, AND WHEN THE CONTACT TURNED THE HEATER ON, THE CONTACT WAS ABLE TO SMELL A STRONG ODOR. THE CONTACT WAS ABLE TO REMOVE THE CABIN AIR FILTER LOCATED AT THE VEHICLE GLOVE COMPARTMENT AND FOUND THE DEAD RODENT NEST. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO THE DEALER TO HAVE A DIAGNOSTIC PERFORMED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 45,000.

ON THE 4TH (AROUND 20K MILES) OIL CHANGE FROM DEALERSHIP I COMPLAINED ABOUT DRIVER SIDE SEAT CUSHION AND BRAKE PEDAL MAKING SQUEAKY NOISE. I WAS TOLD IT'S NORMAL IN NEW CAR DURING THE BREAKIN PROCESS AND EVENTUALLY IT'LL GO AWAY. NOW IT'S EVEN WORSE AT ABOVE 50K MILES AND THEY'RE ASKING FOR DIAGNOSTIC CHARGES. CAR ALSO HAS FUEL AND OIL MIXING ISSUE WHICH I BROUGHT IT UP ON MY RECENT VISIT TO HONDA DEALERSHIP AND I WAS TOLD THEY'LL NEED TO DRAIN THE OIL AND REFILL WITH NEW OIL AND FILTER TO DETERMINE THE ISSUE. WHILE THEY WERE TAKING OUT THEY SAID THERE WAS NO PRESENCE OF FUEL BUT THE SMELL OF FUEL IN ENGINE OIL IS NORMAL FOR THIS VEHICLE. THERE'S BEEN TIME WHERE VEHICLE WILL BE STUCK IN HIGH RPM WHEN ON HIGHWAY AND ACCELERATOR IS RELEASED DURING HIGH SPEED. AND EVENTUALLY IT'LL SHIFT THE GEAR AFTER 5-10...

GEAR SHIFT BUTTON SHATTERED INTO SMALL PLASTIC PIECES, MAKING IT IMPOSSIBLE TO SHIFT GEARS. THE PROBLEM STARTED WHILE PARKED WHEN TRYING TO SHIFT INTO DRIVE.

I WAS DRIVING WITH THE TOURING SYSTEM ON THAT KEEPS THE VEHICLE BETWEEN LINES, WHEN SUDDENLY STARTED RAINING AND THE CAR DID A COMPLETE TURN OF THE WHEEL MAKING THE CAR GO CRAZY AND SPINNING ABOUT 3 TIMES WHILE IN THE HIGHWAY

LIFT-GATE LATCH (WHICH IS MANUAL, NOT ELECTRIC) WILL NOT OPEN OR STICKS REQUIRING MULTIPLE ATTEMPTS TO OPEN. DEALER HAS ADVISED THAT THE LATCH IS DEFECTIVE. DEFECTIVE LATCH ONLY OBSERVED WHILE VEHICLE STATIONARY. WHEN DRIVING OVER SPEED BUMPS AT SLOW SPEEDS, THERE IS A CREAKING SOUND THAT COMES FROM THE LIFT-GATE LATCH. *TR

PAINT BUBBLES AT THE LIP OF MY HOOD, NOT DUE TO RUST OR AN ACCIDENT - 3 DIFFERENT AREAS VARYING IN SIZE. I WILL HAVE HONDA LOOK AT IT BUT OTHER REPORTS SHOW THAT HONDA DOES NOT FIX - IT IS OUT OF BUMPER TO BUMPER WARRANTY. ONLY ONE PIC WOULD SEND I HAVE 3

AT EXACTLY TWO YEARS OLD, THE BATTERY DIED. THERE IS A SERVICE BULLETIN FOR A SOFTWARE UPDATE BUT OF COURSE, MY VEHICLE DIDN'T NEED UPDATE, IT NEEDED A NEW BATTERY DUE TO DEAD CELL THAT HAPPENED WITHIN SIX HOURS. THE TOP SIDES OF THE BODY HAS RIPPLES DOWN BOTH SIDES. WAS TOLD THIS IS USUALLY CAUSE BY ROOF RACK (I DON'T HAVE ROOF RACK) OR BY CAR WASH (MY CAR HAS NEVER BEEN THROUGH A CAR WASH. I WON'T EVEN LET DEALER WASH IT WHEN I'M THERE). THE CAR BRAKES HARD EVEN WHEN THERE IS NO OBSTRUCTION IN FRONT OF ME. THE CRUISE, LANE ASSIST, MITIGATION WILL ALL SHUT OFF AT VARIOUS TIMES SAYING RADAR IS OFF/BLOCKED. ON 10/08/19 WHILE DRIVING, THE LCD SCREEN STARTED BEEPING, FLASHING AND GOING BLACK. NOTHING WOULD WORK. CAR IS BECOMING DANGEROUS TO BE ON ROADWAY. FILED COMPLAINT WITH HONDA ON A COUPLE ISSUES. SORRY...

THE REAR PASSENGER SIDE DOOR EMITS SQUEAKING NOISE WHEN PULLING ON THE DOOR PULL TO OPEN THE DOOR. UPON CLOSER EXAMINATION, I SAW THAT THE POST FROM THE DOOR PULL HANDLE RUBS AGAINST THE CUTOUT HOLE IN THE DOOR PANEL. THIS MEANS THE ASSEMBLY OF THE DOOR HANDLE WAS OFF, OR THE CUTOUT WAS LOCATED WRONG. THE DEALER LOOSENED THE DOOR HANDLE TO READJUST ITS POSITION, BUT IT STILL SQUEAKS SOMETIMES. I CAN SEE THAT THE POST IS SLIGHTLY ADJUSTED AWAY FROM THE CUTOUT, BUT IT NOT AS FAR AWAY AS ON THE OTHER DOOR HANDLES. I SUSPECT THAT THE CUTOUT WAS LOCATED WRONG, WHEN THE HOLE WAS CUT IN MANUFACTURING.

I WAS DRIVING MY HONDA CR-V (2017 MODEL EX AWD) ON A HIGHWAY AT 40 TO 50 MPH SPEED. IT WAS RAINING AT THAT TIME. I EXPERIENCED BIG JERKS COUPLE OF TIMES AND LOST THE CONTROL ON THE VEHICLE. SAW ERROR MESSAGE ON THE DASH BOARD SAYING 'LOST TRACTION AND CANCELLING CRUISE CONTROL'. IT WAS HORRIFIC EXPERIENCE.

NOTHING HAPPENED.

WHEN I WAS DRIVING SLOWLY (20 TO 30 MPH) ON A CITY STREET, I NOTICED NOISE. I WENT OUT OF THE CAR AND NOTICED THE SPLASH GUARD WAS ALMOST TOUCHING THE GROUND. LATER ON, I HAD SOMEONE REMOVE THE SPLASH GUARD, AND NOTICED SOME SCREWS WERE MISSING. THE ORIGINAL DEALERSHIP TOLD ME IT WAS NOT COVERED BY WARRANTY, SO I PAID THE DEALERSHIP TO INSTALL A NEW SPLASH GUARD. I CALLED HONDA.COM SUPPORT NUMBER, AND WAS TOLD IT WAS NOT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY. I AM PRETTY SURE MY CAR DID NOT HIT ANYTHING SINCE IT WAS A CLEAR STREET AND I WAS DRIVING SLOW. IT WAS NOT CLEAR TO ME WHY IT WAS NOT COVERED BY THE WARRANTY. A SIDE NOTE: ON THAT SAME DAY, THE BATTERY ALSO DIED EVEN THOUGH THE CAR WAS JUST A LITTLE OVER ONE YEAR OLD. THE ORIGINAL DEALERSHIP DID REPLACE THE BATTERY FOR ME...

COVER, ENGINE (LOWER) UNCLIPPED FROM THE FRONT AND BENT BACK DRAGGING UNDER MY CAR DRIVING 70MPH ON INTERSTATE. I WAS 1/3 OF THE WAY OF A 120 MILE TRIP. I PULLED OVER AFTER FEELING SOMETHING DRAGGING UNDER MY CAR. AT FIRST IT FELT LIKE A BLOWN TIRE. AFTER PULLING OVER I COULD SEE THE SHEET METAL DETACHED FROM THE FRONT (REAR BOLTS STILL HOLDING). I WAS FORTUNATE ENOUGH TO HAVE A GOOD SAMARITAN STOP AND PULL THE BOLTS HOLDING THE PART TO MY CAR WHICH ENABLED ME TO CONTINUE ON MY TRIP. WENT TO A LOCAL DEALERSHIP THE FOLLOWING FRIDAY. DEALERSHIP TOLD ME IT MUST HAVE BEEN RELATED TO MY LAST OIL CHANGE THREE MONTHS AGO. HONDA AMERICA HASN'T OPENED A CASE AFTER SEVERAL PHONE CALLS. A PART OF A CAR SHOULDN'T FALL OFF. THIS WAS VERY SCARY AND I AM UNSURE HOW I SAFELY CHANGED LANES AT SUCH A...

"TAKATA RECALL" 2017 HONDA CRV WAS REAR ENDED BY ANOTHER VEHICLE ON 4/11/18. THE SEAT BELTS DID NOT RETRACT. THE PASSENGER IN THE CAR STRUCK HER HEAD ON THE DASHBOARD OF THE VEHICLE. THIS CRV HAS BEEN IN THE REPAIR SHOP SINCE 4/17/18. INFORMED BY THE SERVICE PROVIDER THAT NONE OF THE SEAT BELTS RETRACT PROPERLY.

THE DISPLAY IN THE MIDDLE GOES BLANK WHILE I AM DRIVING A LOT. LAST TIME I WAS BACKING OUT WHEN IT DID WHICH CAUSE MY CAR TO HAVE SERIOUS SCRATCHES ON IT. AT THE SAME TIME THE BACK UP SEEMED NOT TO BE WORKING EITHER. MY SON MADE A VIDEO OF IT HAPPENING ONE TIME WHEN HE IS IN THE CAR. ALSO THE RADIO IS LOCK AND DOES NOT DISPLAY WHAT IS PLAYING LIKE IT USE TOO. ALSO SOMETIMES WHEN I AM SWITCHING LANE WITH MY BLINKER ON THE CAR WILL NOT LET ME DO IT AND ABRUPTLY SLOW DOWN EVEN IF THERE IS NOT OTHER CAR ON THE ROAD. I HAD A 2012 HONDA CRV THAT MY SON DRIVE AND NEVER HAD THESE PROBLEM. MY 2017 CRV TOURING IS BY FAR NOT AS WELL MADE SINCE I HAVE ALL THESE PROBLEMS ALREADY.

THE VEHICLE WAS PARKED IN A PARKING LOT. I OPENED THE TAILGATE TO STORE MY GOODS. I BEGAN TO CLOSE THE TAILGATE. THE TAILGATE WAS BEING CLOSED BY THE REAR SWITCH AND THE LEFT EDGE HIT MY HEAD. IT CONTINUED CLOSING FOR AN ADDITIONAL 1-2 SECONDS BEFORE REVERSING AND RE-OPENING. IT RESULTED IN A LACERATION AND BLEEDING THAT REQUIRED FIRST-AID.

I PURCHASED A 2018 HONDA CRV FROM A LOCAL HONDA DEALER, HERB CHAMBERS HONDA BURLINGTON, LAST FALL. THE CAR HAD PERFORMED VERY RELIABLY UNTIL JANUARY 24, WHEN, WHILE DRIVING ON THE INTERSTATE OUTSIDE OF BOSTON THE HOOD OF THE CAR OPENED AND SMASHED INTO THE WINDSHIELD. I WAS ABLE TO PULL OFF THE ROAD SAFELY IN ORDER TO INSPECT THE CAR. THE CAR SUSTAINED DAMAGE TO THE HOOD AND FENDERS. OVER THE COURSE OF MY OWNERSHIP ' I NEVER OPENED THE HOOD NOR DID I EVER HEAR OR NOTICE ANY RATTLING. I BROUGHT THE CRV IMMEDIATELY TO THE LOCAL HONDA DEALER (HERB CHAMBERS) FOR REPAIR, WHICH I ASSUMED WOULD BE COVERED UNDER WARRANTY. I ALSO REQUESTED ALTERNATIVE TRANSPORTATION SINCE I HAVE A COMMUTE IN EXCESS OF 20 MILES. HOWEVER, SINCE THEY COULD NOT IDENTIFY A DEFECT TO A PART IT WAS NOT COVERED AND BY IMPLICATION MY FAULT AND I...

THE KEY FOB WILL AUTOMATIC OPEN ALL WINDOWS AND MOON ROOF IF UNLOCK BUTTON IS HIT IN A CERTAIN SEQUENCE ACCIDENTALLY. ALSO, YOU CAN ACCIDENTALLY OPEN TAILGATE. HONDA NEEDS TO HAVE A DISABLE FEATURE. BOTH OF THESE HAVE HAPPEN TWICE ON ME.

ON JANUARY 25, 2018, I WENT OUT & GOT INTO MY 2017 HONDA CR-V TOURING, STARTED IT AND THEN GOT OUT AND RAN BACK INTO HOUSE FOR A BOTTLE OF WATER. WHEN I CAME OUT, MY CAR HAD TRAVELED ACROSS THE STREET (FLAT SURFACE) AND HAD LODGED AGAINST MY NEIGHBORS TREE. WHAT CAUSED THE CAR TO COME OUT OF GEAR OR IF I HAD LEFT IT IN GEAR, WHY WASN'T IT ROLLING WHEN I GOT OUT? HAVE THERE BEEN PROBLEMS OF THIS NATURE WITH THIS MAKE/MODEL HONDA? I INCURRED APPROXIMATELY $4,000 DAMAGE AND I WASN'T EVEN IN VEHICLE!

THE "TAILGATE COVER" DETACHED AND FLEW OFF WHILE DRIVING ON THE INTERSTATE AT 70 MPH - NOT TURNING, STOPPING, OR DECELERATING. THANKFULLY, IT HIT THE ROAD SURFACE AND NOT ANOTHER DRIVER! UPON STOPPING AND CLOSER INSPECTION, THERE ARE THREE (3) BROKEN PLASTIC PEG-LIKE THINGS STILL IN THEIR CONNECTORS. THERE ARE TWO SCREWS WITH BROKEN PLASTIC AROUND THEM. THERE ARE THREE WHITE PORTS WITH NO PINS CONNECTED, LEAVING ME TO ASSUME THOSE THREE CONNECTING PINS WERE NOT ADEQUATELY ENGAGED LEADING TO THE FAILURE.

ON A DAY WITH SIGNIFICANT WINTER WEATHER I DROVE MY VEHICLE AND WHEN I ARRIVED AT MY DESTINATION AND PARKED I WAS UNABLE TO OPEN THE DRIVERS DOOR. THE STATE OF THE DOOR LOCK DIDN'T MATTER. I CALLED A FRIEND WHO CAME OVER TO HELP. THEY SAID THAT THE EXTERIOR DOOR HANDLE HAD FAILED TO RETRACT FULLY. THEY PUSHED IT IN AND THE DOOR WAS SUBSEQUENTLY ABLE TO OPEN. THE FAILURE OF THE EXTERIOR DOOR HANDLE TO RETURN TO THE CLOSED POSITION APPEARED TO BE DUE TO A BIT OF ICE. THE APPARENT SITUATION IS THAT IF THE EXTERIOR HANDLE IS OUT OF POSITION THEN THE INTERIOR HANDLE CAN FAIL TO OPEN THE DOOR.

PULLING INTO DRIVEWAY... FOOT ON BRAKE.... RAPID ACCELERATION... BRAKES FAILED TO STOP THE VEHICLE... CRASHED INTO BRICK PORCH.