2011 HONDA CR-V Electrical System Problems

DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR. It is constantly malfunctioning. You are driving with small kids, and the doors keep unlocking and locking as the vehicle is in motion. I am very concerned, especially with children inside. It gets to a point that it sounds like a machine gun while you are driving, so, if you forget about it, suddenly you hear the loud noise and you think there is a drive by shooting nearby. There was a class action lawsuit regarding this a few years ago and a recall on this part. Today I locked my car after I parked and went into my house, suddenly I heard this horn noise on and off by itself without touching the key or the fob. I find this extremely dangerous. Let's say you get trapped inside your car and suddenly you cannot get out. I looked a little dipper and found out that Honda...

The contact owns a 2011 Honda CR-V. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the vehicle stalled with the check engine warning light illuminated. The vehicle was able to restart. The vehicle was taken to an independent mechanic, where it was diagnosed that a wiring harness had failed and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The vehicle was taken to the dealer but was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 170,000.

I'm driving along and the car door locks don't recognize that there already locked. They keep going off. The car is shut off and the door locks keep going off and the dom light keeps coming on every time the doors lock even though they are already locked. I couldn't get out of my car the other day because of this. I know now why someone sold it to the dealer ship. I've had the car a couple of months and I'm ready to sell it. I don't feel safe. Also the navigation date will not stay on the current day of 2024. It keeps rebooting back to Feb 2005. I bought it July 25, 2024 for $14,835. Apparently, I'm not the only car out there that has this problem. Why is this not being fixed. It is a SAFETY HAZARD TO GET LOCKED IN YOUR VEHICLE AND CANT GET...

Sporadically the passenger rear door and trunk will lock (then unlock randomly) and there’s no getting them unlocked using the fob nor using the unlock button. The door simply has to unlock itself and the only way to get the trunk opened (till it decides to unlock itself) is to crawl thru the backseat and pull the inside lever.

IT SEEMS ALL DOOR LOCKS ARE BUZZING AND HAVE DIFFICULTY OPENING/CLOSING. IT HAPPENS DURING UNLOCKING AND LOCKING OF DOORS USING EITHER THE REMOTE KEY OR REGULAR KEY. ALSO MAKES BUZZING NOISE WHEN RUNNING THE 1ST 0-10MPH (FROM MOST FULL STOP). IT SEEMS TO HAPPEN MORE OFTEN ON THE DRIVER AND RIGHT PASSENGER DOORS. BOUGHT THIS USED CAR IN MID-2023.

My driver door and my back hatchback door would not open or unlock. I tried the actual key in the drivers door would not open and I tried two different remotes & neither would open the driver door or the back hatchback. I’m having to replace the actuator in both doors at this time!

Faulty actuator in front passenger door, door remains locked shut and as a result the hatch is also locked shut due to connection between doors. Honda has quoted me $900 to repair including needing to destroy interior panel and pay to replace part due to issue that was recalled in 2007-09 CR-V's. Approximately mileage is 160,000.

The doors are automatically locking at 9 MPH while driving - when you initially pull out and meet the speed of 9 MPH AND then every time thereafter your speed is 9 MPH the doors will all lock. Passenger door and now rear hatch door does not unlock using the key remote OR the inside button to unlock. Currently all other doors are working.

Actuator that controls locks has gone out twice in 3 years. It is approximately $500 to replace. Vehicle randomly locks itself over and over when powered on or off. Sometimes power locks will not unlock any doors including the hatch.

At the beginning of the current year, 2002, the date displayed on the navigation system reverted to 2002 and the time changed to an incorrect time. No DIY user solutions have worked to fix these software issues. Honda has reported these issues in a number of vehicle models and claim they will "self-correct" eight months (August, 2022) from now.

Honda Nav system reverted to 2002 and can be reset to correct date and time. System not getting online updates from sat in a timely manor. It appears to also be causing issues with on line CPU - on dash mileage reports on gas consumption will bounce from 5 MPG to 70MPG then may stay stable for a while.

The door lock actuator has malfunctioned in my 2011 Honda CRV and this is not covered under a recall or warranty. This has caused my vehicle doors to not be able to open as well, my hatch will not unlock to enable me to open that. There was no warning or any other symptoms prior. From a safety perspective, if I were to be in an accident and have passengers in my vehicle, they would be unable to exit the vehicle if they were in the backseat of my vehicle. Also, how do I know that this won't eventually affect the drivers door which will then cause me to not be able to exit the vehicle in the event of an emergency.

DOORS ARE NOT UNLOCKING ON MY 2011 HONDA CR-V. THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS. I PARKED THE CAR OVERNIGHT AND THE DOORS WON'T UNLOCK. ON FURTHER INVESTIGATION, I SAW THAT DRIVER SIDE DOOR LOCK IS STUCK. IT WON'T UNLOCK WITH KEY FOB NOR WITH THE KEY. VERY VERY DANGEROUS. MEANING, NOW I EITHER I HAVE TO KEEP THE WINDOWS DOWN AND FEAR THE CAR BEING STOLEN OR FEAR I WON'T BE ABLE TO COME OUT OF THE CAR IN THE EVENT OF AN CRASH. I SAW ONLINE THAT THERE ARE COUNTLESS COMPLAINTS ABOUT LOCK ACTUATORS BEING FAULTY BUT HONDA STILL DID NOT ISSUE A RECALL.

IT APPEARS HONDA HAS A KNOWN DEFECT CONCERNING THE DRIVER DOOR LOCKING AND UNLOCKING MECHANISM AND THEY CHOOSE TO MAKE THE CONSUMER RESPONSIBLE FOR THE COST OF REPAIR AND IF DAMAGE CAUSED BY THEIR EFFORTS TO REPAIR THE CUSTOMER'S RESPONSIBILITY.THANKFULLY THE 1,800 QUOTE TO REPLACE THE DOOR PANEL WAS AVOIDED; HOWEVER, I WAS CHARGED $839.74 (391.15 PARTS AND 360 FOR LABOR AT DUVAL HONDA). THE DRIVER DOOR WOULD NOT UNLOCK, WHICH EFFECTED THE TRUNK INABILITY TO OPEN AND I HAD TO GET IN AND OUT BY LEAVING THE PASSENGER SIDE UNLOCKED AND MANUALLY UNLOCKING THE PASSENGER SIDE TO GET IN AND OUT OF THE 2011 CRV-EX. IF I WASN'T FLEXIBLE I WOULD HAVE BEEN TRAPPED IN MY OWN CAR, WHICH IS A SAFETY ISSUE. IT IS DISAPPOINTING OF HONDA'S LACK OF ACCOUNTABILITY.

I'M LEAVING TARGET A BASKET FULL OF GROCERIES AROUND 7 PM MARCH 13-2021, USING MY KEY THROB AND KEY HOLE ON THE DOOR I WAS UNSUCCESSFUL UNLOCKING THE DOOR OR TRUNK. I MANAGED TO UNLOCK THE PASSENGER DOOR TO GET OVER TO THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR TO MANUALLY TRY TO OPEN THE DOOR AND THE LOCK DID NOT MOVE. I SCHEDULED AN APPOINTMENT 3-23-2019 THE DEALERSHIP I PURCHASED THE CRV AND THEY DID NOT SEEM TO BE AWARE OF MY DOOR ISSUE BEING COMMON AND I WAS NEVER INFORMED DURING ANY OF MY SERVICE APPOINTMENTS WITH THEM. I SPOKE WITH NEAL THE SERVICE DEPT DIRECTOR AND WAS TOLD THE WARRANTY FOR MY CAR ENDED IN 2017 SO I AM RESPONSIBLE FOR MY REPAIRS. MY SERVICE ADVISOR CHARGES $60 FOR DIAGNOSIS, THEN CALLS BACK AND SAYS THE COST JUST WENT UP TO $150 BECAUSE THEY WERE HAVING A HARD TIME OPENING...

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 HONDA CR-V. THE CONTACT STATED THAT AFTER EXITING THE VEHICLE AND LOCKING THE DOORS AND WALKING AWAY, THE SECURITY ALARM INADVERTENTLY ACTIVATED. THE CONTACT WAS UNABLE TO LOCK THE VEHICLE WITHOUT THE ALARM BEING ACTIVATED. THE CAUSE OF THE FAILURE WAS NOT DETERMINED. THE LOCAL DEALER HONDA OF MANSFIELD WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 147,000.

I HAVE A CRV THAT I PURCHASED NEW IN 2011. DURING THE WARRANTY PERIOD AND SEVERAL YEARS AFTER THAT I HAD ALL THE MAINTENANCE WORK DONE AT THE DEALERSHIP. RECENTLY I HAD TWO DOORS THAT I CANNOT OPEN WITH THE REMOTE OR KEY, THE PASSENGER SIDE REAR DOOR AND THE HATCH BACK DOOR. HONDA WANTS TO CHARGE ME OVER $800 TO SOLVE THE PROBLEM. WHAT IF ALL DOORS LOCK UP AND I CANNOT GET INTO MY CAR; WILL I HAVE TO PAY OVER $3000 TO GET INTO MY CAR? EVEN IF HAD EXTENDED INSURANCE WITH 3RD PARTIES, THIS IS NOT COVERED, I CHECKED. ISN'T THIS ON HONDA? *TR

INTERMITTEN NOISES FROM THE RIGHT REAR LOCK MOTOR/WINDOW WHILE DRIVING.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 HONDA CR-V. WHILE DRIVING VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE VEHICLE STALLED AND ALL THE WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED. WHILE IN TRAFFIC, THE CONTACT POWERED OFF THE ENGINE. THE VEHICLE WAS RESTARTED AND THE CONTACT WAS ABLE TO DRIVE; HOWEVER, THE FAILURE RECURRED SEVERAL TIMES. IN ADDITION, WHILE AT A STOP LIGHT AND ATTEMPTING TO DEPRESS THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL, THE VEHICLE STALLED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO FLOW HONDA (2600 PETERS CREEK PKWY, WINSTON-SALEM, NC 27127, (336) 785-3380) WHERE A DIAGNOSTIC TESTING WAS COMPLETED, BUT NO FAILURE CODE WAS FOUND. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED AND DID NOT ASSIST. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 96,000.

DOOR LOCK ACUATOR. DOORS LOCK AND UNLOCK RAPIDLY WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD.

THE AIR BAG HAS A PROBLEM AND CHECK ENGINE COMES OFF AND ON

TAKATA RECALL DRIVER SIDE AND PASSENGER SIDE FRONT AIR BAGS HAVE BEEN REPLACED. SINCE REPLACEMENT I HAVE NOTICED THAT THE DASH WARNING LIGHTS INDICATE THAT THE BAGS ARE NOT WORKING AND THE SIDE AIR BAGS ALSO ARE NOT WORKING, THESE WARNINGS HAPPEN EVERY TIME I START THE CAR! I RETURNED THE CAR TO THE LOCAL DEALER (THE ONE THAT REPLACED BOTH BAGS) AND PAID AN ADDITIONAL FEE TO HAVE THE VEHICLE CHECKED. AT THAT TIME I ALSO MENTIONED MY COMPLAINT FROM PURCHASE THAT THE IGNITION KEY GETS VERY HOT AND THAT THE AUTO BATTERY MUST BE REPLACED EVERY TWO YEARS! THEIR RESPONSE WAS THAT THEY COULD NOT FIND ANYTHING WRONG OR UNUSUAL! THE AUTO HAD 34849 MILES ON THE ODOMETER AT THE TIME (2/13/17) AND CONTIUES TO DATE!

VEHICLE IN MOTION IN ALL ACCOUNTS. TPMS WARNING LIGHT INTERMITTENTLY ON AND OFF SIGNALING FAULTY TIRE PRESSURE MONITORING SYSTEM. CENTRAL COMPUTER REPLACED. AGAIN TPMS WARNING LIGHT INTERMITTENTLY CAME ON AND OFF. 3 WHEEL SENSORS SUBSEQUENTLY REPLACED. AGAIN TPMS WARNING LIGHT INTERMITTENTLY CAME ON AND OFF. TOLD BY DEALER THERE IS SIGNAL OF FAILURE TO TRANSMIT TO REAR SENSORS IN HISTORY - HOWEVER SYSTEM FUNCTIONING NORMALLY AT THIS TIME AND THERE IS NOTHING THEY CAN DO NOW. THEY RECOMMENDED NOT PLUGGING ANY PHONE CHARGERS OR ANYTHING ELSE INTO THE CAR POWER JACKS THAT COULD CAUSE INTERFERENCE. THIS SOUNDS LIKE OVERALL FAULTY ELECTRICAL SYSTEM TO ME.

WHEN STARTING VEHICLE CAR TURNS ON WITH NO PROBLEM SOMETIMES AND WILL RUN WITH LITTLE TO NO PROBLEM. WHEN ALL OF A SUDDEN VEHICLE BEGINS TO LOSE POWER AND ALL LIGHTS ON INSTRUMENT PANEL LIGHTS UP CAR SHUTS OFF. THIS CAN HAPPEN RANDOMLY AT ANY GIVEN TIME, WEATHER CONDITION, SPEED, PARKING OR PULLING OUT OF PARKING SPACE ON THE HIGHWAY OR MULTI-LANE STREETS WITHIN CITY LIMITS; AND OR ONE-WAY STREETS, BACK ROADS OR COUNTRY ROADS WITH INCLINES AND HIGHER ELEVATIONS OR NOT. INCIDENTS HAVE BEEN HAPPENING SINCE MARCH 15, 2017, APRIL 2, APRIL 15, APRIL 18, APRIL 20, MAY 2, MAY 4, 2017. ALL MAINTENANCE WORK DONE ON VEHICLE WAS DONE BY HONDA DEALERSHIP WHERE PURCHASED. ALL INSPECTIONS INCLUDING MAY 2017 INSPECTION HAVE RECEIVED PASSING GRADES, DONE BY HONDA DEALERSHIP AS WELL. TOOK VEHICLE TO DEALERSHIP TWICE AND WAS INFORMED THEY COULD NOT FIND A PROBLEM. DIAGNOSTIC TEST WAS NOT...

RODENTS CAUSED EXTENSIVE DAMAGE TO MY CAR CAUSING OVER $4,000 WORTH OF DAMAGE TO MY CAR. MY INSURANCE COVERED MOST OF THE COST AND I ONLY HAD TO PAY $500 DEDUCTIBLE. RODENTS ALSO CAUSED DAMAGE TO MY HOME WHICH WAS ALSO VERY EXPENSIVE. I HAD TO HAVE MY ATTIC INSULATION REPLACED, MY DISHWASHER NEEDS TO BE REPLACED AND NUMEROUS KITCHEN PLUMBING PROBLEMS.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 HONDA CR-V. THE CONTACT STATED THAT DURING COLD WEATHER THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT START. THE FAILURE OCCURRED WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT VEHICLE NEEDED A NEW BATTERY. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED HOWEVER THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 25,000. UPDATED 03/01/17*LJ *CN

THIS CAR HAS KILLED 6 BATTERIES IN 5 YEARS. THE DEALER JUST KEEPS SAYING EVERYTHING IS FINE, BUT IT FREQUENTLY NEEDS JUMP STARTS AND BATTERY REPLACEMENTS. THERE IS NO PATTERN AS TO WEATHER CONDITIONS, JUST FREQUENT FAILURES AT DIFFERENT TIMES OF YEAR. I AM REPORTING THE MOST RECENT OCCURRENCE, BUT IT HAS HAPPENED MANY TIMES IN 5 YEARS. MY SON HAS BEEN STRANDED MANY TIMES.

AUTOMATIC DOOR LOCKS HAVE FAILED ON NUMEROUS OCCASIONS. ALL 4 DOORS ARE AFFECTED AT DIFFERENT TIMES, BUT DEALER COULD ONLY REPLICATE ONE DOOR FAILURE. I AM REPORTING ONLY THE MOST RECENT FAILURE DATE BUT THIS HAS BEEN INTERMITTENT PROBLEM FOR 3 YEARS.

REAR PASSENGER DOOR LOCK (LEFT SIDE). DOOR WILL NOT LOCK, EITHER MANUALLY OR WITH KEY FOB. MIGHT BE A PROBLEM WITH THE ACTUATOR. REAR DOOR LOCK STARTED MAKING SOME CLICKING NOISES (LIKE IT WAS STUCK) THE PAST MONTH WHEN ALL OTHER DOORS WOULD AUTO-LOCK. NOW IT NO LONGER WORKS AND REMAINS UNLOCKED. THIS IS A HAZARD WITH CHILDREN IN THE BACK.

WHEN I UNLOCK MY CAR WITH THE KEY FOB MY DOOR LOCKS IMMEDIATELY BY ITSELF. MOST RECENTLY MY PASSENGER SIDE DOOR WILL NOT LOCK. WHEN I LOCKED IT WITH THE KEY I WAS ABLE TO GET IT TO STAY LOCKED. HOWEVER WHEN I RETURNED TO UNLOCK MY CAR I WAS LOCKED OUT . NO DOORS WOULD UNLOCK! I HAD TO USE THE KEY FOB AND PUSH UNLOCK WHILE THE KEY WAS INSERTED IN THE LOCK. I CAN HEAR THEM CLICKING RANDOMLY WHILE DRIVING. THERE WAS S CLASS ACTION SETTLEMENT BUT OF COURSE THE DEADLINE TO MAKE A CLAIM WAS NOV OF 2015. MY LOCKS JUST STARTED THIS ISSUE 2WEEKS AGO. YOU WOULD THINK IF IT'S AN ISSUE FOR CERTAIN YEARS AND MODELS THAT HONDA WOULD MAKE IT RIGHT!!

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 HONDA CR-V. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE DOOR LOCKS FAILED AND THE LOCKS ENGAGED INDEPENDENTLY. THE FAILURE OCCURRED NUMEROUS TIMES. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 42,000.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 HONDA CR-V. IN COLD WEATHER, THE VEHICLE FAILED TO START. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE BATTERY NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED; HOWEVER, THE FAILURE PERSISTED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN BACK TO THE DEALER WHERE THE DIAGNOSIS WAS THE SAME, BUT THE DEALER REFUSED TO PROVIDE A REPLACEMENT BATTERY. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 17,000. THE VIN WAS NOT PROVIDED.

FRONT PASSENGER SIDE DOOR CANNOT BE LOCKED USING THE KEY FOB OR THE CENTRAL LOCK BUTTON ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE. THE ONLY WAY TO LOCK/UNLOCK IT IS TO DO IT MANUALLY. THE TRUNK CANNOT BE UNLOCKED IF THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE DOOR IS LOCKED. TRUNK CAN ONLY BE UNLOCKED WHEN THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE DOOR IS UNLOCKED.

DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR PROBLEM: DRIVERS REAR DOOR LOCK IS IN OPEN MODE TO LOCK AND UNLOCK. HONDA DEALER TESTED AND THEN REPLACED DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR. DUE TO THE SAME ACTUATOR PROBLEM HONDA SETTLED A CLASS ACTION LAW SUIT FOR CLASS VEHICLES (2007-2008 HONDA CR-VS AND CERTAIN 2009 HONDA CR-VS) ON SEPTEMBER 19, 2014, BY AND BETWEEN AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC. (HONDA) AND PLAINTIFFS IN DAVITT V. HONDA NORTH AMERICA, INC., CASE NO. 13-381 (D.N.J.) (THE LITIGATION). (HTTP://SETTLEMENT-CLAIMS.COM/DOORLOCK/INDEX.ASPX).

DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR FAILED: KEY FOB WOULD ONLY LOCK/UNLOCK DRIVERS DOOR. MANUAL KEY LOCK/UNLOCK ON OUTSIDE DRIVERS DOOR WOULD ONLY LOCK/UNLOCK DRIVERS DOOR. ATTEMPTED TO LOCK/UNLOCK ALL DOORS USING BUTTON ON INSIDE DRIVERS DOOR: COULD ONLY LOCK/UNLOCK DRIVERS DOOR--NO AFFECT ON OTHER DOORS. TODAY, HONDA DEALER TESTED AND THEN REPLACED DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR: PROBLEM PERSISTED UNALTERED. THEN MORE DIAGNOSTICS SHOWED: "DIAGNOSED TO FIND THE UNLOCK RELAY INSIDE THE MICU IS NOT PROVIDING POWER TO UNLOCK THE REMAINING DOORS. THE NOISY DRIVER FRONT ACTUATOR, OR ANY OF THE OTHER 3 MAY HAVE CAUSED THE ISSUE IN THE RELAY. ORDERD THE UNDER HOOD FUSE RELAY BOX AND CUSTOMER WILL RETURN."

THE CAR WAS SITTING ON A HILL, AND I TURNED THE KEY IN THE ON POSITION. I THEN TURNED THE KEY TO START, AND THE ENGINE DID NOT TURN OVER, AND THE CAB LOST ALL POWER. SO I TOOK IT TO AUTO ZONE, AND THEY SAID THAT NOTHING WAS WRONG WITH IT. *TR

DRIVER DOOR LOCK STOPPED WORKING AND COULD ONLY BE OPERATED MANUALLY. ALL OTHER DOOR LOCKS WORK FINE WITH THE POWER LOCK BUTTON AND KEY FOB. THIS HAS BEEN AN ISSUE WI PREVIOUS YEARS OF THEIRS SAME MAKE AND MODEL. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 HONDA CR-V. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE HEATING CORE FAILED TO WORK, THERE WAS AIR BLOWING UNDER THE DASHBOARD, THERE WAS A BURNING ODOR, AND A FILM WAS PRESENT ON THE WINDOWS THAT IMPACTED THE CONTACTS VISIBILITY EACH TIME THE VENT CONTROLS WERE USED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE ANTI-FREEZE WAS ENTERING THE CABIN AND THE VAPORS CAUSED THE CONTACT TO HAVE TO OPEN THE WINDOWS WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS BEING DRIVEN. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER WHO WAS NOT ABLE TO REPLICATE AND DIAGNOSE THE FAILURE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 30,300.

IN MAY, 2014, THE RIGHT REAR POWER WINDOW QUIT WORKING AND WOULD NOT GO BACK UP AFTER HAVING IT COMPLETELY DOWN. I TOGGLED THE WINDOW SWITCH A FEW TIMES AND THE WINDOW EVENTUALLY WENT BACK UP, SO I THOUGHT IT WAS JUST A GLITCH. WE LIVE IN ARIZONA WHERE THE SUMMERTIME IS VERY HOT, SO THE WINDOW WAS NEVER USED AGAIN DUE TO AIR CONDITIONING. THE WINDOW WAS USED RECENTLY BECAUSE THE WEATHER HAS COOLED DOWN FROM THE SUMMER HEAT. THIS TIME, TOGGLING THE SWITCH DID NOT WORK AND THE WINDOW STAYED IN THE DOWN POSITION COMPLETELY. I TOOK THE HONDA CR-V TO A LOCAL HONDA DEALERSHIP WHICH DIAGNOSED THE ISSUE AS A FAULTY MASTER POWER WINDOW SWITCH. I'VE RESEARCHED AND DISCOVERED THERE HAVE BEEN NUMEROUS ISSUES WITH FAULTY MASTER POWER WINDOW SWITCHES ON SEVERAL DIFFERENT HONDA MODELS. THERE ARE SEVERAL RECALLS AFFECTING JUST UNDER ONE MILLION AUTOMOBILES MANUFACTURED AND...

ON 15 NOVEMBER 2014 AT 9:09PM MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON, I HAVE A GARMIN GPS HOOKED INTO MY COMPUTER AND THIS UNIT CAN READ THE DIAGNOSTIC CODES. THE CODE FOR THIS CHECK ENGINE LIGHT OCCURRENCE WAS A (P2422). THE PROBLEM I HAVE WITH THIS IS THAT THIS CAR IS 3.5 YEARS OLD AND HAS 91K MILES ON IT AND THIS IS THE 6TH (YES SIXTH) TIME FOR THIS FAILURE. THIS CODE HAS TO DO WITH THE EMISSIONS/FUEL SYSTEM. THE CAR HAS BEEN TO 2 DIFFERENT DEALERSHIPS TO BE RESOLVED AND IS STILL NOT RESOLVED. I AM AGAIN TAKING IT TO THE DEALERSHIP FOR THIS OCCURRENCE BUT AM RUNNING OUT OF WARRANTY AND PATIENCE. THIS CAR HAS ALSO BEEN THROUGH 4 BATTERIES, A WATER PUMP, FUEL PUMP AND ALL POWER STEERING COMPONENTS REPLACED. THE MESSAGE ASSOCIATED WITH CODE P2422 IS "EVAPORATIVE EMISSION SYSTEM VENT VALVE STUCK CLOSED". IS THERE...

WIFE HAD PURSE IN THE CAR AND THE DOORS LOCKED ON THEIR OWN. THIS LOCKED HER OUT OF THE VEHICLE. THIS HAS OCCURRED A NUMBER OF TIMES SINCE. *JS

PASSENGER DOOR AND REAR HATCH DOOR WOULD NOT UNLOCK. DEALER REPLACED FRONT DOOR LATCH ASSEMBLY. COST: LATCH ASSEMBLY: $69.72: LABOR: $340.00; SHOP SUPPLIES: $25.00: TOTAL COST: $438.42. *TR

WITHIN THE LAST MONTH, MY 2011 CRV HAS HAD A RECURRING ISSUE WITH THE DOOR LOCK. WHEN I HIT THE UNLOCK BUTTON, THE DRIVER'S DOOR REMAINS LOCKED AND WILL ONLY TURN MANUALLY. LIKEWISE, IT WILL ONLY LOCK MANUALLY. THE OTHER DAY I COULDN'T OPEN MY TRUNK BECAUSE OF THE LOCKING ISSUE. BECAUSE OF THE UNLOCKING, THE SENSORS AFFECTED MY DOME LIGHT AND MY BATTERY DIED AFTER 3 YEARS. I HAVE READ THAT THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM, BUT NO RECALLS YET. IT DOESN'T MAKE SENSE. *JS

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 HONDA CRV. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING 55 MPH, THE VEHICLE STALLED ABRUPTLY AND CAUSED THE VEHICLE TO SPIN THREE TIMES BEFORE CRASHING INTO THE MEDIAN. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED INTO THE DEALER WHERE THE TECHNICIAN DIAGNOSED THAT THE BATTERY NEEDED TO BE RECHARGED. THE MANUFACTURE WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 30,000.

ON SUNDAY MARCH 30 I WAS COMING OUT OF THE GROCERY STORE AND I WENT TO MY CAR TO PUT MY THINGS AWAY BUT WHEN I TRIED TO OPEN MY CAR WITH MY KEY FOB IT WOULD OPEN SO I KEPT TRYING FOR A FEW MINUTES UNTIL I DECIDED TO USE THE ACTUAL KEY ITSELF TO UNLOCK AND EVEN THEN IT ONLY OPEN ONE DOOR. ALSO WHEN I TRIED TO OPEN THE LOCKS MANUALLY WITH THE BUTTONS IN THE INSIDE THAT DIDN'T WORK EITHER. LATER THAT DAY I TRIED OPENING ALL THE DOORS WITH MY KEY BUT BY THE TIME I GET TO THE NEXT ONE IT LOCKS BY ITSELF. *TR

I PURCHASED MY 2011 HONDA CRV BRAND NEW FROM OUR LOCAL HONDA DEALERSHIP. I HAVE BEEN HAPPY WITH IT UNTIL LAST MONTH. I BEGAN TO NOTICE THAT WHENEVER I CAME TO A STOP OR SLOWED DOWN BELOW 10 MPH AND THEN ACCELERATED, MY DOORS WOULD MAKE THE LOCKING SOUND EVEN THOUGH THEY WERE ALREADY LOCKED. IT HAPPENS REPEATEDLY AS I SLOW DOWN/STOP AND THEN ACCELERATE. THEN TODAY (3/4/2014) THE PROBLEM ESCALATED. I CAME OUT OF THE GROCERY STORE AND COULDN'T UNLOCK THE CARGO DOOR WITH MY KEY FOB. I NOTICED THAT THE LEFT PASSENGER DOOR DIDN'T UNLOCK AS WELL. I PRESSED THE BUTTON A FEW MORE TIMES AND THEY WOULDN'T UNLOCK. THE DRIVER DOOR, FRONT PASSENGER AND RIGHT REAR PASSENGER DOORS DID UNLOCK. SO THEN I PRESSED THE UNLOCK BUTTON ON THE DRIVER DOOR ARMREST BUT THE CARGO DOOR AND THE LEFT PASSENGER DOOR STILL DIDN'T UNLOCK. I HAD TO...

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 HONDA CR-V. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE LOCKS MALFUNCTIONED AND WOULD NOT ENGAGE MANUALLY OR BY USING THE ELECTRONIC KEY FOB. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE THE TECHNICIAN DIAGNOSED THAT THE ACTUATOR WAS DEFECTIVE AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 29,000 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 31,000. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 HONDA CR-V. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE PARKED, THE VEHICLE BECAME ENGULFED IN FLAMES. THE POLICE AND FIRE DEPARTMENT REPORTED TO THE SCENE AND A REPORT WAS FILED. THE FIRE DEPARTMENT WAS UNABLE TO DETERMINE THE CAUSE OF THE FIRE. ACCORDING TO THE REPORT, THERE WERE FLAMES COMING FROM THE FRONT DRIVER'S SIDE WHEEL COMPARTMENT, UNDER THE HOOD AND FROM THE DRIVER'S SIDE INTERIOR DOOR PANEL, UNDER THE DASH BOARD AREA. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS DESTROYED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 9,000. *TR

WHEN UNLOCKING THE DOORS USING THE KEY FOB THE RIGHT REAR DOOR UNLOCKS MOMENTARILY THEN RELOCKS. WHEN USING THE DRIVER DOOR LOCK BUTTON TO UNLOCK THE DOORS THE RIGHT REAR DOOR UNLOCKS THEN RELOCKS. WHEN PARKING THE VEHICLE AND PLACING THE SHIFTER INTO THE PARK POSITION THE RIGHT REAR DOOR UNLOCKS THEN RELOCKS. WHEN USING KEY TO UNLOCK VEHICLE FROM DRIVER DOOR HANDLE THE RIGHT REAR DOOR UNLOCKS THEN RELOCKS. WHEN TRANSPORTING CHILDREN THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE THAT HONDA SHOULD ADDRESS. REVIEWING COMPLAINTS FROM OTHER SOURCES THIS IS AN ONGOING ISSUE WITH HONDA CRVS SINCE 2003. *TR

DOOR LOCKS:LOCKING MECHANISM UNRELIABLE LOCK AND UNLOCK WHILE DRIVING FAILURE TO LOCK (HAVE REVIEWED MANUAL TO ENSURE ALL IN ORDER, INCLUDING BATTERY IN KEY AND SETTINGS FOR AUTO LOCK AND UN LOCK). *TR