2016 SUBARU OUTBACK Electrical System Problems

THE BATTERY ON OUR 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK KEEPS DISCHARGING AND CAR WON'T START. IT IS IN THE GARAGE. DROVE IT TO THE STORE YESTERDAY. BOUGHT A NEW BATTERY 4 MONTHS AGO, HAS HAPPENED 5 TIMES IN 6 MONTHS.

IRREGULAR BATTERY AND ELECTRIC ISSUES. WHEN CAR WAS 3-1/2 YEARS OLD WE DROVE 2 HIGHWAY HOURS FOR A MEETING. AFTER THE MEETING (WHILE STILL IN THE PARKING LOT) THE CAR WAS DEAD. WE JUMPED IT WERE DRIVING TOWARD A NEARBY SUBARU DEALERSHIP. THE CAR ACTED IRREGULAR ON THE HIGHWAY. IT HAD LIMITED POWER AND WAS LURCHING. WE LIMPED INTO THE SUBARU DEALERSHIP ABOUT 20 MILES AWAY. THEY COULDN'T FIND OR DIAGNOSE AN ISSUE. BUT, EVENTUALLY RE-CHARGED THE BATTERY AND IT HELD. AT AGE 4, THE CAR DIED IN MY DRIVEWAY. WE JUMPED IT AND THE CHARGE HELD. THE DRIVER SIDE CONTROLS CAN NO LONGER OPEN THE FRONT PASSENGER SIDE WINDOW.

SINCE VEHICLE WAS PURCHASED, THE VEHICLE'S BATTERY DOES NOT REMAIN CHARGED IF THE CAR IS NOT STARTED FOR A PERIOD LONGER THAN TWO DAYS. THE VEHICLE IS ONLY FOUR YEARS OLD WITH 50,000 MILES AND THE BATTERY HAS BEEN REPLACED THREE TIMES. THIS HAS CAUSED THE VEHICLE OWNER TO BE STRANDED WHILE AWAY FROM HOME, WHICH COULD HAVE LED TO UNSAFE CONDITIONS.

BATTERY FAILS REGULARLY CAUSING COMPLETE STOP. ELECTRIC SYSTEM TO WINDOWS, ESPECIALLY PASSENGER WINDOW, FAILS WITHOUT ANY KNOWN REASON

REPEATED DRAINED BATTERY FROM MULTIPLE SHORT DRIVES

ABOUT A YEAR AGO, MY OUTBACK OCCASIONALLY WOULD NOT START, ESPECIALLY AFTER I RETURNED FROM A TRIP. MY CAR'S BATTERY WAS DEAD. HOWEVER, MY WIFE'S CAR WOULD START RIGHT UP. I TOOK MY CAR TO THE DEALER AND THEY INSTALLED A SOFTWARE UPDATE AND A NEW BATTERY. LESS THAN A YEAR LATER, THE CAR WOULD NOT START AND THE BATTERY WAS DEAD AGAIN. I HAD NOT DRIVEN THE CAR IN ABOUT 5 DAYS BECAUSE OF ANOTHER PROBLEM WITH THE IGNITION (I COULD NOT TURN THE KEY IN THE IGNITION). I RETURNED THE CAR TO THE DEALER. AFTER THE DEALER INSPECTED THE CAR, I WAS TOLD THEY COULD NOT FIND A PROBLEM AND THEY GAVE THE CAR A CLEAN BILL OF HEALTH. SOMETHING IS WRONG--IS IT THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM? MY CAR WAS IN OUR DRIVEWAY.

PARKED ON A CITY STREET AND PRIVATE DRIVEWAY ON NUMEROUS OCCASIONS, AND OCCURRING MORE FREQUENTLY, I WAS UNABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION; AND SOMETIMES THE KEY WOULD NOT TURN IN THE IGNITION. DEALER REPAIRED AT A COST OF $535.38 ON FEB 28, 2020. SINCE THE REPAIR, I HAVE DRIVEN THE CAR VERY INFREQUENTLY. ON APRIL, 13, 2020, I PUT THE KEY IN THE IGNITION AND IT WOULD NOT TURN. *TR

BATTERY RUNS DOWN OFTEN. I'VE HAD THE BATTERY CHECKED MULTIPLE TIMES AND NO PROBLEM WITH THE ALTERNATOR EITHER. I KNOW IT WILL RUN DOWN DURING LOADING OR UNLOADING THAT LASTS MORE THAN 30 MINUTES, SO I MANAGE THAT SITUATION. BUT IT IS STARTING TO RUN DOWN MORE OFTEN WHILE PARKED. THIS HAS LEFT ME STRANDED MULTIPLE TIMES OVER THE LAST 6 MONTHS.

INTERMITTENTLY UNABLE TO REMOVE KEYS FROM IGNITION, AS THOUGH THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM IS NOT DETECTING THE CAR IS IN PARK. WORK-AROUND IS USUALLY TO PUMP BRAKES, MOVE FROM DRIVE BACK TO PARK, SOMETIMES RESTARTING IGNITION AND THEN TRYING AGAIN. SOMETIMES THIS REQUIRES SEVERAL ATTEMPTS. FOUND SERVICE BULLETIN #16-112-18R, BUT SUBARU IS NOT COVERING COSTS OF REPAIR IF VEHICLE IS OUT OF WARRANTY. BASED ON THE NUMBER OF VEHICLES IMPACTED, THIS SHOULD TRULY BE A RECALL.

DIFFICULTY TURNING THE CARS IGNITION INTO THE OFF POSITION TO REMOVE KEY. KEY STOCKS IN IGNITION AND CAR STAYS TURNED ON IN ACCESSORY MODE. OFTEN TAKES UP TO 6 TIMES RESTARTING AND STOPPING TO GET KEY TO RELEASE. DEALER CLAIMS IT IS THE COMPUTER RELAY THAT ISN'T RECOGNIZING THAT THE CAR HAS BEEN PUT INTO PARK. THIS IS WHEN THE CAR IS STOPPED.... THIS HAS BEEN GOING ON SINCE APPROXIMATELY MAY OF 2019 TO CURRENT. AT FIRST IT WAS ONLY OCCASIONALLY BUT REACHED THE POINT WHERE IT HAPPENED 9 TIMES OUT OF 10.

ONCE PARKING THE VEHICLE AND PLACING IT IN PARK, THE KEY STAYS LOCKED IN THE IGNITION. THIS ISN'T RELATED TO THE STEERING WHEEL BEING LOCKED IN PLACE, THE KEY IS STUCK. SHIFTING IN/OUT OF PARK NEEDS TO HAPPEN MULTIPLE TIMES. LOOKING INTO THIS ONLINE, THERE ARE MULTIPLE REPORTS OF THIS HAPPENING. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE BECAUSE WE ARE UNABLE TO GET OUT OF THE CAR WITH OUR KIDS BECAUSE THE KEY IS STUCK IN THE IGNITION.

MY OUTBACK HAS AROUND 42,000 MILES ON IT. I AM HAVING TROUBLE GETTING THE KEY TO COME OUT OF THE IGNITION AFTER PUTTING IT IN PARK. SO FAR ABOUT HALF THE TIME I TURN THE CAR OFF I NEED TO SHIFT IT INTO REVERSE AND THEN JAM IT BACK INTO PARK IN ORDER FOR IT TO UNLOCK THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION.

IGNITION KEY GETS STUCK EVERYTIME AND I HAVE TO JAM IT INTO PARK TO GE IT OUT

I CANNOT TURN THE KEY IN THE IGNITION TO RELEASE THE KEY AFTER I'VE PUT THE CAR IN PARK THE FIRST TIME. IT CAN TAKE UP TO SEVERAL MINUTES OF ATTEMPTS TO TURN THE KEY TO VARIOUS POINT (LIGHTS ON/ACCESSORIES ON/ENGINE ON), DIFFERENT BRAKE POSITIONS, SHIFTING TO OTHER GEARS AND BACK TO PARK. THIS SEEMS TO HAPPEN MORE FREQUENTLY IN THE WINTER. THIS HAS BEEN GOING ON FOR SEVERAL MONTHS AT A TIME SINCE I BOUGHT THE CAR NEW IN 2016.

REPEATED AND UNPREDICTABLE BATTERY FAILURE WITH NO APPARENT CAUSE, I.E. DOME LIGHTS OR OTHER ACCESSORIES NOT POWERED "ON"., DOORS OR REAR CARGO HATCH NOT OPEN. DEALER ANALYSIS OF ELECTRICAL SYSTEM FOUND NO ISSUES HOWEVER REPLACED BATTERY. LAST OCCURRENCE 10/19/2019 IN THE HOME GARAGE.FOR RELIABILITY IT WAS NECESSARY TO PURCHASE A PORTABLE BOOSTER CHARGER COSTING $100.00. THERE HAS BEEN 8 SUCH OCCURRENCES SINCE THE PURCHASE (NEW) IN 2016. PLEASE ADVISE.

CAR IS IN PARK AND ENGINE IS OFF AND CAN NOT GET KEY OUT OF IGNITION. I THEN HAVE TO START CAR AND MOVE VEHICLE AND HOPES THAT WHEN I STOP CAR AGAIN I CAN GET THE KEY OUT. THIS IS A SAFEY ISSUE AS I CAN NOT LEAVE CAR WITH KEY IN IGNITION IN PUBLIC PLACE. IF I DO AT THE HOUSE, THEN THE CAR THEN DRAINS THE BATTERY AND CAR DIES.CAR IS ONLY 3 YEAR OLD!!! I'M NOT TO HAPPY WITH THIS. NEEDS TO BE FIX, THIS SHOULD BE A RECALL!!!!! BUT I DON'T SEE ONE YET! I READ OTHER PEOPLE ARE HAVING THE SAME ISSUE.

DEAD BATTERY AT 38,000 MILES. NO INDICATOR LIGHTS OF ANY EXISTING PROBLEM. LEFT STRANDED AND OUT $150 FOR NEW BATTERY. SAW MANY FORUMS RELATED TO THIS SAME PROBLEM. SUBARU OWES IT TO THE CAR OWNERS TO ADMIT AND FIX AND NO CHARGE THIS PROBLEM. DROVE AT LUNCH TIME AND WHEN I WAS RETURNING BACK TO WORK IT WOULD NOT START. CAR WAS PARKED IN PARKING LOT. NOTHING LEFT ON. WHEN TURNING IGNITION ON THE DASHBOARD LIGHTS ALL CAME ON AS WELL AS RADIO AND WINDOWS WORKED UP AND DOWN BUT NO START. HAD CO-WORKER COME AND JUMP START AND IT STARTED RIGHT AWAY.

INTERMITTENT PROBLEM WHERE THE KEY COULD NOT BE REMOVED FROM THE IGNITION MAKING IT UNSAFE TO LEAVE THE CAR IN A PUBLIC AREA. (THE DOOR CANNOT BE LOCKED WITH THE KEY IN THE IGNITION). REQUIRED REPLACEMENT OF THE SHIFTER ASSEMBLY. THE REPAIR NOTES INDICATED THERE IS A RELATED TSB, SO THE DEFECT IS KNOWN, BUT NO RECALLS HAVE BEEN ISSUED.

SOMETIMES THE KEY WILL NOT COME OUT OF IGNITION WHEN PUT IN PARK. FREEZES UP. WON'T ALLOW POWER LIFT GATE TO OPEN EITHER. SEEMS TO BE RELATED TO TSB 16 112 18R, WHICH IN PRACTICE SEEMS DANGEROUS, AS HAVING TO LEAVE THE KEY IN THE IGNITION EVEN FOR A SHORT AMOUNT OF TIME WITH KIDS IS RISKY. THIS NEEDS TO BE A SAFETY RECALL.

WHEN I STOP MY 2016 OUTBACK AFTER DRIVING IT MY KEY WILL NOT COME OUT OF THE IGNITION. IT DOES THIS INTERMITTENTLY AND IS ACTING LIKE I AM NOT PUTTING THE CAR ALL THE WAY IN PARK. I AM FORCED TO LEAVE MY KEY IN THE IGNITION AT TIMES AND THE CAR WILL BE VERY EASY TO STEAL. AFTER READING THE SUBARU FORUMS IT APPEARS TO BE THE SHIFTER LINKAGE FAILING AND NOT GOING INTO PARK ALL THE WAY. SOME DEALERS STARTED TO REPLACE THE KEY SWITCH AT FIRST THEN THEY REALIZED IT WAS THE SHIFTER LINKAGE ASSEMBLY ITSELF. IT SEEMS TO NEED REPLACING AND CAN'T BE ADJUSTED. SUBARU KNOWS ABOUT THIS ISSUE AS I JUST TALKED TO SUBARU OF AMERICA TO SEE IF THEY HAVE RECALLED IT YET.

ON MULTIPLE OCCASIONS WHILE PARKED FOR ONLY A FEW HOURS. THE BATTERY VOLTAGE HAS DROPPED TO A LEVEL THAT REQUIRED THE VEHICLE TO BE JUMP STARTED. THE VEHICLE HAS NO AFTERMARKET DEVICES.

THE ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT BATTERY FOR THE VEHICLE HAS BEEN INSUFFICIENT TO MEET THE DEMANDS THAT THE "BELLS AND WHISTLES" PUT ON THE RESERVE POWER IN THE BATTERY. AS SUCH, THIS PUTS THE DRIVER AT RISK THAT THE VEHICLE WILL NOT START THE VEHICLE. EITHER STANDARDS SHOULD BE ESTABLISHED FOR RESERVE BATTERY CAPACITY, BASED ON ELECTRICAL DEMAND, OR BETTER INDICATION PROVIDED ON AVAILABLE CHARGE. I.E., MUCH LIKE THAT PROVIDED BY OTHER DEVICES THAT HAVE AN INDICATION OF REMAINING BATTERY CHARGE. THIS VULNERABILITY WAS SHARED WITH SUBARU SOON AFTER I PURCHASED THE CAR, NEW, AND HAS BEEN REPORTED TO BOTH SUBARU AND THEIR DEALERSHIP ON MULTIPLE OCCASIONS. I SHOULD HAVE UPGRADED THE ORIGINAL BATTERY ON MY OWN FROM THE START, BUT ONLY BECAME AWARE OF THE DEFICIENCY OF THE ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT UNTIL RECENTLY. THE FACT THAT SUBARU WOULD ALLOW ANY OPERATOR TO DRIVE ONE OF THEIR CARS UNDER THESE CIRCUMSTANCES IS REPREHENSIBLE,...

I CANNOT REMOVE MY KEY FROM THE IGNITION OR OPEN THE REAR HATCH WHEN IN PARK. THE NEUTRAL SAFETY INTERLOCK SYSTEM DOES NOT RECOGNIZE THAT THE TRANSMISSION IS IN PARK. THE FRONT CONSOLE SHOWS THE CAR IN PARK AND THE TRANSMISSION IS IN PARK. HOWEVER THE KEY IS STUCK. I HAVE TO MOVE THE SELECTOR IN AND OUT OF PARK USING RANDOM PATTERNS BEFORE THE SENSOR/SWITCH RECOGNIZES THAT THE CAR IS IN PARK. STARTED AT 40K MILES. MY SON FELT THAT HE HAD TO RESTART THE CAR TO CLEAR THE ISSUE AND DRAINED THE BATTERY, LEAVING HIM STRANDED.

I HAVING PROBLEM GETTING MY KEY OUT OF THE IGNITION FROM MY SUBURU OUTBACK 2016, ALMOST EVERYTIME I STOPPED AN ENGINE THIS PROBLEM OCCUR.

PROBLEM IN SHIFTER GATE SO THAT KEY WILL NOT RELEASE FROM IGNITION AFTER PLACING IN PARK AND TURNING OFF THE ENGINE.

PARASITIC BATTERY DRAIN. BATTERY DRAINS AND DOES NOT ALLOW PROPER FUNCTIONING OF REAR HATCH. REPLACED BATTERY AFTER 2 YEARS. HAVING PROBLEM WITH NEW BATTER AFTER ONLY 2 MONTHS. VEHICLE HAS PARASITIC DRAIN THAT REDUCES THE BATTERY CHARGE OVER TIME.

IGNITION KEY GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION AND WON'T COME OUT. EVEN AFTER TRYING TO TURN THE STEERING WHEEL WHICH ISN'T LOCKED. THIS HAPPENS WHEN TURNING THE CAR OFF.

CAR WON'T START THE NEXT MORNING EVEN AFTER CHARGING FOR 30 MIN VIA CONTINUOUS DRIVING/PARASITIC DRAIN ON BATTERY

REPEATED PARASITIC BATTERY DRAIN. BATTERY TESTS FINE BY AUTOZONE AND DEALER, BUT CAR WILL DIE OVER A FEW HOURS OR A FEW DAYS. SOMETIMES EVEN 10 MINUTES. APPARENTLY ISSUE WITH MAKE/MODEL AS MANY COMPLAINTS.

WITH CAR STATIONARY, ENGINE OFF AND CAR IN PARK, KEYED IGNITION WILL NOT TURN TO LOCK POSITION OR RELEASE KEY. THIS HAS HAPPENED REPEATEDLY FOR TWO WEEKS, OFTEN MORE THAN ONCE A DAY, FROM 3/10/2019 AND CONTINUING THROUGH YESTERDAY, THE LAST TIME THE CAR WAS DRIVEN.

PROBLEM: 360 CCA BATTERIES INSTALLED IN NEW CARS ARE NOT ENOUGH AND THEY CAUSE PROBLEMS. MY FIRST INDICATION WAS A YEAR AGO WHEN I WENT TO THE STORE, WAS IN THERE 10-15 MINUTES, AND WHEN I CAME OUT THE CAR DID NOT START. A FRIEND CAME 2 HOURS LATER TO JUMP IT BUT TRIED IT FIRST AND IT STARTED RIGHT UP. SECOND PROBLEM WAS ON A TRIP TO DC IN NOVEMBER '18. NOR'EASTER CAME THROUGH AND WE GOT STUCK ON THE INTERSTATE IN THE MOUNTAINS FOR A FEW HOURS. CAR WAS STOPPED, NOT RUNNING. WENT TO GET DINNER THEN TO CAR TO GO ON AGAIN. WOULD NOT START. WERE STRANDED FOR 3 MORE HOURS, AS THE WEATHER AND MOUNTAIN DRIVE MADE IT IMPOSSIBLE TO GET HELP. WE WERE EVENTUALLY ABLE TO FIND SOMEONE TO JUMP IT. OVER NEXT FEW MONTHS, ODD THINGS HAPPENED LIKE THE RADIO NOT WORKING SPORATICALLY, SLOW...

ELECTRONIC PARKING BRAKE ENGAGED AUTOMATICALLY DUE TO SWITCH ASSEMBLY MODULE FAILURE WHILE CAR WAS IN MOTION AT BETWEEN 25-30MPH. CAR STOPPED INSTANTLY, PASSENGERS THROWN FORWARD, ALL-POWER DIED. CARS IN REAR STOPPED SHORT. FAILED TO RESTART AFTER INITIAL ATTEMPTS (10 MIN). WEATHER CLEAR, ABOUT 45 DEGREES F. 2.5 YEAR OLD CAR, ~40,000 MILES.

I WAS DRIVING IN THE CITY AND IT JUST TURNED OFF ON ME. VERY QUICKLY TOO. NO TIME TO PULL OVER. JUST DIED IN MIDDLE OF THE ROAD. I WAS NOT USING THE EYE SIGHT AND IT WAS A CLEAR DAY. BUT THE DASH SAID EYE SIGHT OFF. I TRIED TO TURN THE CAR BACK ON BUT IT SAID I HAVE TO PUT IN PARK FIRST. SO I PUT IN PARK AND IT STARTED BACK UP NO PROBLEM AND WORKED ALL THE WAY HOME. THIS IS DANGEROUS. I COULD OF BEEN REAR ENDED.

DRIVING 75 MPH ON FREEWAY WITH A LITTLE OVER QUARTER TANK OF GAS ON GAS GAUGE AND SYSTEM INFO ON CAR SAID 110 MILES LEFT TILL EMPTY TANK. CAR SLOWED VERY QUICKLY AND ENGINE DIED. PULLED OVER ON FREEWAY IN THE MIDDLE OF DESERT. TOW TRUCK SERVICE TOOK 3 1/2 HOURS TO ARRIVE. TOW TRUCK DRIVER SAID CAR RAN OUT OF GAS AND PUT 5 GALLONS AND THEN CAR STARTED.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 45 MPH ON A LOCAL ROADWAY, THE EYESIGHT PRE-COLLISION BRAKE ASSIST SUDDENLY ACTIVATED AND CAUSED THE VEHICLE TO COMPLETELY STOP. THE BRAKES RELEASED SHORTLY AFTER THE FAILURE. THE DEALER (SUBARU OF DAYTON, 995 MIAMISBURG CENTERVILLE RD, WASHINGTON TOWNSHIP, OH 45459, 1-(888) 431-9557) WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE SERVICE CENTER MANAGER INDICATED THAT THE FAILURE WAS ESCALATED TO THE MANUFACTURER. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE AND THE CONTACT WAS WAITING FOR A FOLLOW-UP RESPONSE. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 54,000. *TT CONSUMER STATED CAR WAS TAKEN INTO THE DEALER AND SO INCIDENT SINCE. UPDATED 12/20/18*JB

THE KEYS BECOME STUCK IN THE IGNITION WHEN ATTEMPTING TO PARK THE CAR. UNABLE TO REMOVE. ALSO UNABLE TO TURN OFF THE CAR FULLY. SOMETIMES REPARKING MULTIPLE TIMES HELPS.

THE IGNITION KEY DOES NOT RELEASE WHE THE IGNITION IS TURNED OFF AND THE CAR IS PUT IN PARK.

DEAD BATTERY. THREE TIMES MY CAR HAS FAILED TO START AND THE BATTERY WHEN TESTED WITH A LOAD TESTER SAYS,"BAD BATTERY". AFTER BOOSTING AND RUNNING FOR A FEW MINUTES IT TESTS "OK" AND THE ALTERNATOR AND STARTER TEST OK. UPON THE 3RD TIME IT MALFUNCTION I HAD IT TAKEN TO THE //DEALER ON A ROLL DECK. THE DEALER CAN NOT FIND THE PROBLEM AND JUST CHARGES THE BATTERY AND SAYS IT IS OK. "IT IS NOT OK WHEN IT HAPPENS @ 25,00 KM. AND 32,000 KM AND 40,000 KM. THE BATTERY HAS LESS CRANKING AMPS THEN MY RIDING LAWNMOWER, BUT THE DEALER SAYS THAT IS WHAT SUBARU RECOMMENDS . WHAT CAN I DO TO GET THEM TO TREAT THE CAUSE, NOT THE SYMPTOMS? EACH TIME IT HAPPENED I WAS LUCKY TO BE CLOSE TO HELP.

KEY I UNABLE TO BE REMOVED FROM IGNITION INTERMITTENTLY AT AN INCREASING RATE. DRIVER HAS TO REPEATEDLY PUT THE CAR IN DRIVE AND THEN PARK TO TRY TO REMEDY THE ISSUE TO BE ABLE TO TURN OFF THE CAR AND REMOVE THE KEY.

I HAVE LEARNED BECAUSE MY WIFES CAR IS ALSO A 2016 SUBARU THAT SOY BASED MATERIALS HAVE BEEN USED IN WIRING AND HOSES OF MY OUTBACK CREATING A DANGEROUS SITUATION SINCE RODENTS AND SQUIRRELS ARE ATTRACTED TO THIS PRODUCT AND WILL CHEW ON THEM THE MANUFACTURER HAS NOT PROVIDED A REPLACEMENT TO THE SOY PRODUCTS SO THIS IS A LONG TERM SAFETY CONCERN THAT NEEDS TO BE RECTIFIED. WE HAVE ALREADY INCURRED DANGEROUS AND COSTLY DAMAGE TO ONE SUBARU AND ARE CONCERNED IT WILL HAPPEN AGAIN TO ONE OR BOTH OF OUR CARS.

BATTERY DIES IF CAR IS NOT DRIVEN WEEKLY. STEERING COLUMN REPLACED TWICE AND STEERING RACK ONCE.

I WAS UNABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH WITH THE CAR STOPPED AND THE CAR WAS IN "PARK" POSITION. THE CAR REMAINED IN THE "ACCESSORY" IGNITION POSITION (ELECTRICAL ACCESSORIES REMAINED ON) BECAUSE THE KEY WOULD NOT GO TO THE IGNITION LOCK POSITION. I WAS THEREFORE UNABLE TO LOCK THE CAR STEERING OR LEAVE THE VEHICLE UNATTENDED UNLESS I HAD A SEPARATE SET OF KEYS WITH ME. EVEN WITH ANOTHER SET OF KEYS, THE CAR'S ELECTRICAL SYSTEM REMAINED ON AND THE CAR WOULD EASILY BE STOLEN OR DRIVEN BY AN UNAUTHORIZED USER. I TOOK THE CAR TO A SUBARU DEALER AND THEY REPAIRED THE CAR UNDER WARRANTY AFTER A FEW DAYS WAITING FOR REPLACEMENT PARTS. THE DEALER TOLD ME THIS IS A KNOWN DEFECT WITH SUBARU OF AMERICA.

VEHICLE STARTING BECOMES SLOWER FOR ABOUT 1 WEEK AND THEN IT WILL NOT START AT ALL. I THEN GOT A BOOST FROM A SERVICE GARAGE IN THE FIRST INSTANCE AND DROVE THE CAR TO MY SELLING DEALER 40 KM. AWAY. THEY DID ALL THE TESTING, BATTERY, ALTERNATOR AND IT DID NOT SHOW ANY CODES. THEY ONLY DID DIAGNOSTIC WORK AND NO ACTUAL REPAIRS AND GAVE ME THE PRINT OUT JUST IN CASE IT HAPPENED WHILE WE WERE ON OUR 5 MONTH VACATION IN FLORIDA. THIS HAPPENED AT 25,000 KM ON THE ODOMETER IN SEPTEMBER OF 2017. IT IS NOW JANUARY 15, 2018 AND I AM IN FLORIDA. THE CAR HAS 33,000 KM. ON IT THE EXACT SAME THING HAPPENED, WITH A SLOW TO TURN OVER FOR ABOUT 1 WEEK AND THEN FAILURE TO START. I TESTED THE BATTERY WITH A LOAD TESTER AND IT TESTED AS "BAD" ON THE GUAGE....

CAR BATTERY DIES COLD WEATHER. NO WARNING. OBVIOUS DEFECT EITHER BATTERY OR ELECTRICAL DRAINAGE. I NOT ONLY OWNER WITH PROBLEM. ON LINE MANY COMPLAINTS WITH BATTERY DYING AND LEAVING ONE STRANDED COLD WEATHER. SUBARU AND DEALER KNOW OF DEFECT WILL NOT WARRANTY PROBLEM. TWICE STUCK WHEN CAR PARKED ON STREET AND GARAGE. WOULDN'T START.

I HAD DIFFICULTY SEVERAL TIMES REMOVING THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION. THE LAST TIME THIS HAPPENED, I WAS ABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY, BUT THE CAR DIED. I CALLED THE DEALER AND THEY GAVE ME THE LOCAL TOWING COMPANY. NAPLETON SUBARU KEPT THE CAR FOR TWO DAYS AND COULD NOT FIND ANYTHING WRONG WITH IT. I HAVE BEEN AFRAID TO DRIVE THE CAR ON THE HIGHWAY, OR GO TOO FAR FROM HOME.

INTERMITTENTLY ALL THE LIGHTS IN THE DASH WILL GO OUT FOR APPROXIMATELY TWO SECONDS, THEN COME BACK ON. DURING THIS PERIOD OF TIME, I HAVE NOTHING ON THE DASH, NO SPEEDOMETER, TURN SIGNALS, EYESIGHT, RADIO, ETC. TO ME THIS IS A SAFETY HAZARD. IT HAPPENS, SO FAST THAT I DO NOT HAVE TIME TO SEE IF MY HEADLIGHTS OUTSIDE OF THE VEHICLE ARE FUNCTIONING CORRECTLY OR NOT, SO THAT I AM BEING SEEN BY OTHER MOTORISTS. IT HAS HAPPENED ON TWO OCCASIONS WHEN I HIT A POTHOLE. MY DEALERSHIP HAS NOT BEEN ABLE TO RE-CREATE THIS PROBLEM. I FEEL IT IS A SHORT IN THE DASH. IT IS ALWAYS WHEN I AM DRIVING, BUT IT NEVER LASTS MORE THAN 2-3 SECONDS AND THE DEALER TELLS ME TO "BRING IT IN WHILE IT'S HAPPENING". THIS HAPPENS EVERY FEW WEEKS AND HAS HAPPENED SINCE I PURCHASED THE VEHICLE.

WE PURCHASED A 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK 3.6, FULLY-LOADED WITH EVERY BELL AND WHISTLE REGARDING SAFETY, COMFORT, AND CONVENIENCE IN THE MIDDLE OF DECEMBER 2015. THE SUBARU STARLINK INFOTAINMENT SYSTEM'S TECHNOLOGY FROZE CAUSING THE CLOCK TO FREEZE AT 10:37AM AS WELL AS THE NAVIGATION SYSTEM (NO VOICE COMMANDS EITHER.) THE MULTI-TOUCH INTERFACE NOT ONLY LOST FUNCTIONALITY ACROSS THE BOARD, BUT IT AFFECTED THE MESSAGE DISPLAY BETWEEN THE TACH AND SPEEDOMETER, AS WELL AS THE TOUCH SCREEN OPTIONS DISAPPEARING FROM THE SCREEN, THE MAP WOULD NOT DISPLAY, YOU WOULD PRESS THE AUDIO BUTTON AND AFTER ABOUT 30 SECONDS, THE AUDIO SCREEN WOULD AUTOMATICALLY ENTER SPLIT-SCREEN MODE WITH THE NAVIGATION SYSTEM. WHEN TRYING TO EXIT SPLIT-SCREEN, THE SYSTEM WOULD NOT RESPOND. IF I SHUT THE RADIO OFF BY THE BUTTON, THE SYSTEM WOULD NOT SHUT DOWN. THE RADIO WOULD SAY, "AUDIO OFF - TOUCH HERE TO GO TO SOURCE SCREEN", HOWEVER THE SYSTEM...

I PURCHASED A NEW 2016 SUBARU OUTBACK ON OCTOBER 6, 2015. THE TIRE PRESSURE MONITORING SYSTEM ACTIVATED ON JANUARY 25, 2016, EVEN THOUGH ALL TIRES HAD 35 PSI IN THEM AS RECOMMENDED. SINCE THAT DAY, THE SYSTEM HAS ACTIVATED 17 TIMES, AGAIN EVERY TIME THE TIRES HAD THE CORRECT PRESSURE IN THEM. THE SUBARU DEALER HAS HAD THE VEHICLE IN THE SERVICE DEPARTMENT FIVE TIMES FOR A TOTAL OF 14 DAYS. EVEN THOUGH THERE WAS A SINCERE EFFORT AT FIRST TO LOCATE THE PROBLEM, I AM NOW BEING TOLD THAT THIS IS A NORMAL CONDITION FOR MY VEHICLE AND THERE IS NOTHING ELSE THAT CAN BE DONE TO REPAIR THIS VEHICLE SAFETY WARNING SYSTEM--THAT I MUST ACCEPT IT AS IT IS. THIS IS VERY FRUSTRATING TO ME SINCE THE VEHICLE HAS ONLY 2,200 MILES ON IT. THE SYSTEM MAKES A BEEPING NOISE, THEN A SCREEN COMES ON THE DASH WITH...

MY CAR REQUIRED 2 REPAIRS 5 WEEKS APART OF THE WIRING BUNDLE CONTROLLING THE FOG LIGHTS AND LOW OIL LEVEL SENSOR DUE TO A CRITTER CHEWING THE BUNDLE WHILE IT WAS PARKED. I NOW HAVE BOUNCE LAUNDRY SHEETS STUFFED AROUND THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT AT THE SUGGESTION OF THE DEALER; THEY SEE THIS OFTEN FROM CARS OUT OF THE MOUNTAINS.