2017 CHRYSLER PACIFICA Electrical System Problems

Around 79k miles the car began hesitating and rough idling. From the OBDII sensor: Error Code P0301: Cylinder 1 misfire detected

I was driving my van and the dash board turns on and off several times. It starts to light all lights while I'm driving. It was a scary situation while im driving my vans brakes while I'm in the freeway. This has happened several times. I also had my vehicle not turn on at all It stays locked and the dash boards says come error code. My vehicle jerks randomly and feels its gonna shut off. Had to tow the car to the dealer, no problem found. On another occasion my transmission was defective and it was changed. . It's has been taken to the dealer several times and I continue to have electrical issues and mechanical issues. I contacted the manufacturer and asked to do a buy back. The company refused and I explained all the issues that I have on my van and no resolution was made.

Intermittently the van when turned on has all error lights come on and will not shift into reverse. The sliding door will not close or open. Then the engine will loose power when finally getting the van to start and drive. All error lights go off after the van runs for a little while.

My car was stalling out during the automatic on off system. It had completely died on me in the middle of the road and I had to have it towed to a dealership. They spent a week fixing it. The day after I got it back it died again. I dropped it off and its been 3 days and no word on why this is happening. I picked it up on the 3rd and it died on the 4th. I dropped it off on the 6th at 8Am. Its still currently in the shop 10:40 pm on Wednesday.

The contact owns a 2017 Chrysler Pacifica. The contact stated that while her husband was driving at an undisclosed speed, the vehicle stalled at an intersection. The vehicle was able to be restarted. While the contact was driving, the vehicle lost motive power and stalled. There were no warning lights illuminated. The local dealer was not contacted. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was contacted and informed the contact that the vehicle was not covered under warranty. The contact stated that the failure was related to NHTSA Campaign Number: 18V049000 (Electrical System, Engine and Engine Cooling). The failure mileage was 50,000.

P3 Misfire resulting in replacing coil packs, spark plugs, and head gasket. We are moving toward head or engine replacement like so many other people are but nobody is listening. Please help. Also, have a transmission that sometimes feels like you left a piece of the car after you leave from a stop.

I was driving and my car went in to on/off system and didnt turn back on. Got my car into park and it still would not turn on. I couldn't even get my car into neutral. The check engine light came on but my engine was not making any noise. It said it was on but was not actually on. This has happened a few times in the past couple weeks but the car always turned back on when put in park and started. When I called the dealership they would not be able to get me in till February 7th. That would have been 3 weeks waiting. So I called another one and I got an appointment for the following week ( date of appointment 1/26/23). I have documented these incidents on here. I saw yesterday that there is a recall on my car for this happening but my...

Vehicle unexpectedly bucks and jerks when accelerating either from a complete stop or just keeping speed. This happens with no brake warning lights to those around you. It is a common issue experienced by many 2017 Pacifica van owners and has nearly caused an accident many times. Especially when trying to merge onto highways because the vehicle unexpectedly slows and bucks like your riding a bull and it is trying to throw you off. There is no way to predict exactly when this will happen in order to avoid a potential accident. Chrysler knows about the issue but refuses to acknowledge it.

I was driving my children to school and my car went into on off mode while ideling. When I tried to press the gass is did not go anywhere. I had to put it in park and then restart the car to continue driving. This is happening just like the 2018 recall on my car.

when driving on highways with cruise on for a amount of time. when turn off and when getting off the road. will stop at light and when you start to drive the van will act like it running out of gas will jerk and stop but will still be running almost been hit many times. talked to dealership they cant rep it doing it. No we are getting shifter need service and check engine light when driving and the dash will get light all over it windows will go down when I don't put them down parking break will light up and slow the van down and a big drag on the van .been to dealership 2 time still cant see when I get it. We have now put 2 new batters in the van went in with 12.6 volt next morning down to 12.46 volts. only have 79,000 mile...

Unknown. Electronic sliding doors open from the outside when vehicle is locked and no key present. Creates a safety issue as anyone can approach the vehicle and open the door. Vehicle alarm will sound, however doors still open. Issues have occurred multiple times, date listed is most recent occurrence.

05JAN and 07JAN 2023, similar instances of significant vehicle systems malfunctioning which affected operability/safety. Both times, the vehicle operated without issue earlier in the day. Occurred at 11:30pm on 05JAN2023 while being driven and at 5:30pm on 07JAN2023 upon starting the van. On 07JAN, the van had difficulty starting when the start button was pressed. After more attempts to start, it eventually did. Both times the dashboard had multiple warnings: Check Engine, Stability Control, Airbag Warning, and Electric Park Brake Trouble. Worded messages also displayed regarding transmission and gear positions trouble. While operating, the "D" above the digital speedometer would regularly change to "--" and back to "D," accompanied by an audible tone. The red "BRAKE" light would quickly blink once every 2-3 minutes. Van would accelerated very slowly from low speeds or stopped position, would jolt forward or back aggressively, and could not overcome a moderate grade incline from...

Voltmeter is fluctuating between 10-15 volts. The windows will go down by themselves while driving, slow to start, and the dash lights/radio control screen takes several minutes to come on, and the auto sliding doors fail to operate occasionally. Several times the vehicle will lose Excelleration when starting from a stop or turning, the last time nearly causing an accident. The vehicle is becoming unsafe to drive and I have seen several like complaints on this year model vehicle.

Transmission stalls, doesn’t change from park to, reverse neutral to drive correctly. If I put my vehicle into drive it will go backwards and vise versa not always but a lot and then al a sudden it will jerk and switch to correct gear. It doesn’t accelerate correctly.

While driving 10 mph the engine shut off/stalled locking the steering wheel. The dash read shift to park and the shift knob was flashing. The vehicle would not restart at first and took 3 tries before turning over.

I drive my daughter's van to transport my 3 years old autistic grandson to preschool and I have experienced several problems. 6 times the van died when I accelerated from a stopped position. Once I was turning onto a highway. The passenger-side sliding door opened while I was driving. The passenger front window has opened 2 different times. The lights on the dash go out while driving. The transmission will slam into another gear jerking you. The hatchback door on the back has closed on my daughter and her baby. She has 4 kids 5 and younger that she drives in this van. It scares me to drive it. She has taken it to 2 different places to get it looked at and they couldn't identify the problem. From what I have read this happens a lot with the van.

I was driving for about 10 minutes going 40mph when the car dinged, the accelerator stopped working and the steering wheel became stiff and almost impossible to move. The screen said “shift to P to start”. I was able to pull to steering wheel just enough to pull over, and barely missed being in an accident. I put the car in park turned it off and turned it back on and it started again. 1 week prior I took the car to the dealer because the transmission seemed to be jerky and then it wouldn’t start. I got it towed to the dealer and they couldn’t replicate the jerky-ness and said it was because they battery was low and it was a connection issue. I got a new battery and a week later the car shut off while I was driving!

Im also contacting the department of transportation in this matter. I had a tune up at. 80,000 mile . Lots of misfires . Head gasket right head leaking. Cracks dripping inside cylinder. Leaking right head gasket.I have to keep refilling the coolant. Im seeing many recalls but when I put in my vin it shows none .

The LED strip/portion of my driver-side headlight has stopped functioning. It is all inside a closed headlight unit. When starting the vehicle, the LED strip will pulse about 11 times quickly, then remain off. This has been an unsafe defect, because if I am in a lane that is for "Left Turn OR Keep Straight", a vehicle in the intersection across from me could look briefly, see my left LED strip out*, and assume I am turning left -- while in actuality I am keeping straight. This could lead to a head-on collision. *There are many newer vehicles where the LED strip temporarily turns off when that side's turn signal is flashing. Additionally, this can cause a small percentage of uneven brightness. I have not found a way to turn off the working LED Strip on the passenger side without turning ALL the headlights off. It is always on (and...

The new auxiliary battery is not working properly which is causing the start/stop component to not work and the light is illuminated on the dash. Also the car has issues with the Torque Converter Clutch and the crank shaft sensor which disrupts the vehicles performance. The vehicle slows down when trying to accelerate and then speeds back up when the transmission realizes it needs to shift gears. The car then jolts roughly after the gear shift while driving. Sometimes car will not start because the auxiliary battery does not have enough power. Also after shutting car off there will be soft banging noises coming from the middle of the dashboard which lasts for a few minutes.

My vehicle stalled without warning while driving. I lost power steering and everything shut down. I had to put it in park which wasn’t registering and shut off my vehicle and restart it for it to correct itself.

Auto Start/Stop function failed, at a red light the car engine auto stopped but when brake was released after the light turned green the car stalled and had to be turned off and back on. It restarted on the first try and the lane sense function turned off when the car restarted but no check engine lights came on. This was unsafe For the car to have to be turned off completely and restarted after a light had turned green and there was traffic waiting behind me. Thankfully the cars behind me were stopped but if someone had been just pulling up behind me and expected me to move forward when the light turned green they may not have stopped fast enough to prevent an accident, which could have put the safety of my children in the back seats at significant risk. On a separate occasion this happened at a...

I took my vehicle in to have the computer reset as the recall fix required after my start/stop unavailable warning came up for the second time. First time I had to replace both batteries. About 6 months ago if that. Took it in with the check engine light having popped on saying it's a misfire. Then when we left the stop start failure was still lit up on the dash and there were more codes popping up including one for the shift module which is electronic.. so I believe the electronic system is causing the misfire. I don't even have 100,000 miles and my car is about 5 years old. (2017) We were traveling on a busy highway when the check engine light came on to start with and exited to turn around and head home when the van felt like it was getting sluggish and we luckily were not...

UNKNOWN. Vehicle stalls out when attempting to start. If started vehicle can drive fine but when stopped at a light it stallls out from time to time requiring you to shut it completely off after putting it in park and restarting. At times it will fail to restart. There is no check engine light or anything for a shop to find the issue.

the rear vehicle camera stays on for 2 miuntes after the car changes gear from reverse to drive. It is distracting.

While idling and in park, entire electrical system failed. No dash lights. No hazard flashers. No dome lights. Start button unresponsive. Parking brake engaged. Attempt to jump had not effect. While undoing 500 amp positive battery terminal to replace battery, connection restored and vehicle behaved normally. Soon after while driving, dash went dark for less than a second but returned to normal and engine kept running. Moments later when came to stop to back into driveway, repeat complete electrical failure. I disconnected all positive battery terminals, cleaned with wire brush and applied terminal protective grease before reconnecting. Vehicle functioned normally. I had recently replaced the battery myself and I suspect subsequent corrosion in terminals caused loss of electrical continuity. At minimum, I recommend a service alert but had this occurred while I was driving on a highway, I would have had no control of the vehicle at all and likely...

2017 Chrysler Pacifica Touring L First, multiple warning messages started pop up randomly with alarm sound. The speedometer started shaking. The shift gear was unable to change. The engine was unable to start at the parking lot. After dealer mechanic at Envision CDJR West Covina in California inspected, there was no log in obd2 record and they said that it seems communication was failed and returned the car without fixing. A month later, it started again and the engine had completely shut off at the middle of intersection. Called AAA and took the car to the same dealer. They said this time that the electric harness was short and the entire harness needs to be replaced with the latest superseded part which cost $1500. 2 weeks later, the same issue start again. Nothing had been fixed and the car will be towed to the dealer to inspect it tomorrow. I'm...

My Pacifica suddenly will not start. I ended up jump-starting the van. Then whenever I stopped, it needed a jump start. This whole ordeal is from a single day. Driving back on the high-way, suddenly van acted weird, all electronics going haywire, various instrument "unavailable" messages started coming, and on the highway Van all systems failed, power steering locked, I pulled over and battery icon (red) came on as well. Car died. I re-jump started it and then drove again with seeing the battery fluctuating between 10.2 v to 16v. Then when we exited the highway, this time, the van stalled right in the middle of the road. No warning, nothing. I feel this is a single point of failure that if the battery is having an issue, (though it seems alternator) was charging it, it could have caused two crashes. I am really concerned. I have had dead batteries...

My sliding door came off the hinge and shatter my backwindow. The door was hesitating and would not close it stood stuck. When I pulled it the back window shattered. I have no warranty it's now an out of pocket expense. My airbag light is on when I took it to the dealership for a diagnostic they said I was missing a piece that I actually found and when I told them I found it they said it's damage and they can't do anything to help.

The engine overheated due to a coolant leak and faulty head gaskets that need replaced at 62k miles. A related cyclinder 4 misfire has been occurring since 58k miles. Chrysler refuses to cover the repair under the 60k Powertrain warranty and does not acknowledge the many reports of head gaskets failing between 50-80k miles.

Started the van up, and when I tried to turn the shift knob, it was locked in place, and would not turn, van remained in Park. The center display (where the speedometer is) said "shifter service." I turned it off, opened the door, closed the door, and started it up again. Momentarily displayed the message again, but this time I was unable to put it into gear. I headed straight to the dealer. Turned out to be failure of the shifter module. it has been in the shop 5 times.

VEHICLE COMPLETELY FAILED(SHUTDOWN for the lack of better term). ALL electrical system turned off. THIS IS VERY SERIOUS ISSUE. NO warning message was issued on the dashboard.

Issue started June 25, 2022. Initially, the shift knob would intermittently lock in park while the engine was running and foot on the brake, unable to shift out of park. Eventually problem cleared itself. Was advised by local auto parts store to replace aux battery and issue should clear. I replaced the auxiliary battery myself the dealership installed the main battery on July 6. Dealership was unable to diagnose. No issues for about 1 week. Problem started again. Check engine light came on along with Service Shift Sensor error message. We made an appointment for the dealership and returned with it on July 19 and told them we needed it back by July 21 end of day. We got the car on July 21. Dealership was unable to service. On July 22, we pulled into parking lot and all systems and vehicle shut down. Multiple error messages. Finally got the...

WE PURCHASED A 2017 CHRYSLER PACIFICA. WHILE ATTEMPTING TO ACCELERATE FROM A RED LIGHT, THE VEHICLE FAILED TO ACCELERATE AND THE ONBOARD COMPUTER DISPLAYED A TRANSMISSION CODE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER. THE MECHANIC STATED THAT THERE WAS NO TRANSMISSION CODE AND THAT THE FAILURE WAS DUE TO THE CONTACT FUELING THE VEHICLE WHILE THE ENGINE WAS RUNNING. WHILE THE CONTACT WAS TURNING LEFT AT AN INTERSECTION AT 10 MPH, THE VEHICLE FAILED TO ACCELERATE AGAIN AND STOPPED IN THE MIDDLE OF THE INTERSECTION. AFTER 5-6 SECONDS, THE VEHICLE JERKED FORWARD AND ACCELERATED AS THE CHECK ENGINE INDICATOR ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER AGAIN, BUT WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE FAILURE OCCURRED FOUR TIMES. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE issues. Passenger side rear door opening and closing repeatly. Steering stiff and steering cloud locking and jerking the car to the right...

The contact owns a 2017 Chrysler Pacifica. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the vehicle lost motive power after coming to a complete stop, along with several instrument gauges fluctuating. Additionally, the passenger's side front window inadvertently rolled down while driving. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired by an independent mechanic or dealer. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure and advised the contact to file a complaint with the NHTSA Hotline. The contact related the failure to NHTSA Campaign Number: 19V348000 (Electrical System) however, the VIN was not included in the recall. The failure mileage was approximately 80,000.

Vehicle stalls out in motion at intersection. Loss of all electrical power. Vehicle comes back on after restarting in a intersection.

While trying to accelerate after stopping at a red light, engine turned off and a warning message appeared on dashboard saying go to park. Car only re-started after several attempts.

Car stalled while driving with warning to service electrical module. Upon restarting, no power steering. If this occurred on a busy road, it would likely lead to an accident because the stall was sudden, and without being able to steer properly. After letting car rest for a while, it struggles to start, but power steering works now.

The vehicle will randomly lose power when going from a stop or low speed and attempting to accelerate. For example, if I am stopped at a red light and start to accelerate once the light turns green, the vehicle will not gain speed. I have to let up off the gas pedal and then I will feel a "jolt" and then the vehicle will pick up speed. The safety of myself, my kids and others were put at risk because I cannot maintain a safe speed while driving. If I am stopped to make a turn, my vehicle has lost power or wouldn't gain speed as I was turning into or merging into oncoming traffic. Also, and the most dangerous, was when I had the vehicle in reverse to pull out of a parking spot at a store. When I attempted to turn the dial knob to "Drive", the vehicle...

The vehicle stalled on the road in the middle of an intersection and then again in a turn lane a few hours later in the same day. The car was in drive, rumbled near the front of the vehicle, lurched forward, and then the engine cut out and would not restart. Trying to start the car again made a REVVVVVV-putta-putta-putta noise and there was not any control of the ignition on my end. It revved up and then hovered around 1/2 of 1 RPM on the dash then it would cut out and ask me to put it in park and start again. Hitting the engine start button did nothing and the dash electronics seemed to cut in and out. Each time I went to restart the car, it went from being in drive to stalling to needing 5+ minutes before it could be driven again, this happened without warning....

The battery constantly dies. If we go 1 day without driving, we have to jump it. The screen will malfunction and black out. The sliding doors will not close requiring us to close them several times before they actually close properly. We’ve had issues with the emergency brake automatically engaging after some of the battery issues as well without indicating the parking brake is on. We’ve replaced the first battery after roughly 3.5 years, and still the battery that is less than 1 year old dies constantly. We’ve had 2 garages do diagnostics and replace parts (1 being a dodge/Chrysler dealer) and even after thousands of dollars spent to fix the problem, a week later the battery is dead again. It’s an endless cycle. We’ve also experienced jerking from the transmission while driving that did not go away after software fixes. The dates and info below are for the most...

The contact owns a 2017 Chrysler Pacifica. The contact stated while reversing two days after purchasing the vehicle, the electronic shifter was placed into DRIVE however, the vehicle would not move. The warning message "Service Shifter" was illuminated. The contact continued to engage the electronic shifter until the vehicle responded. The contact stated that the failure reoccurred and the vehicle was taken to the dealer where the vehicle was purchased. The dealer then towed the vehicle to an authorized Chrysler dealer, where the vehicle was diagnosed with an electrical wiring failure. The vehicle was repaired; however, the failure persisted. The contact stated that the vehicle was taken back to the dealer again to be repaired. The dealer repaired the vehicle; however, the failure reoccurred while driving. The contact stated while driving at 60 MPH on the highway, the vehicle suddenly stalled, almost causing other vehicles to crash into the vehicle....

On July 26 when starting the car the entire dash lit up and all possible dash lights began to flash, the RPMs would go up and down, speedometer would move up and down. It literally looked possessed. Turned the car off. Later that day went to start the car again (to bring it in if possible) and the car started fine. Started driving towards the dealership. At 30mph the car began to accelerate on its own. Thankfully no cars in front as I slammed the breaks and pulled over. The dash lights again went haywire. Pulled over and shut car off. Turned back on and drove the mile home (13 miles to dealership). Next day we again brought it into the dealership and the car made it. They were unable to duplicate and stated there were 100's of codes and they don't know where to begin. The dealership sent me...

The contact owns a 2017 Chrysler Pacifica. The contact stated that the vehicle failed to start after several attempts with the STOP/START unavailable message displayed on the instrument panel. The contact replaced the battery however, the failure returned soon after each battery replacement. The contact also stated that the vehicle independently accelerated while driving at various speeds. The contact stated that the vehicle also stalled while depressing the accelerator pedal. The service shifter and service electronic stability system warning lights were illuminated on the instrument panel. Additionally, the contact stated that the vehicle would not accelerate above 25 MPH while driving. The contact was forced to use the hazard lights and slowly drove the vehicle back to her residence. The contact called the local dealer and was informed that the vehicle was previously repaired under NHTSA Campaign Number: 19V348000 (Electrical System) and 18V395000 (Electrical System, Equipment). The manufacturer was also...

I have twin boys, I let them out of their car seats after returning from daycare. I took bags in my house and returned to find my door off the upper track and hanging from the lower attachment causing much stress to the bracket and and scratching my exterior paint. From the door opening and closing so many time off the track. This occurred after my son said he hit that button on the door a few times. This door could of easily fallen off or hurt one of my sons. Very scary! Also I found numerous other Pacifica forums that say the side windows have broken on there vehicles after this same type of event has happened. I am very concerned, this is my daily driver for all 3 of my sons who are all under 4yrs old. This heavy door could of caused serious damage to one of...

The start/stop feature says to service the system and it effects how the vehicle drives. There’s no pick up and the RPMs are messed up. I have had it to the dealership 5 times and they’ve fixed a few things but the problem persists.

The wiring harness on the sliding doors allow the wiring to become frayed and makes the door not close properly. See YouTube videos on this model car door malfunctioning. When attempting to close the door, the door closes and then reopens until you repeatedly close it.

While driving vehicle with cruise control set to 55 vehicle stallings, losing power steering, and loses all driver-assist features, to include traction control, blind spot monitoring, power steering, forward collision avoidance, adaptive cruise control, airbags, and other systems. Send back to dealership three times to two different dealerships and for same

Lane assist and Forward Collision Warning would intermittently turn off along with the passenger window automatically going down. Vehicle would also seems to glitch and restart at the same time. After this taking place for a couple of weeks, now the vehicle has twice completely shut off while driving. The engine, screens, dash, etc. all turned off and the it was automatically put into PARK. Vehicle will restart and everything seems back to normal once it is restarted.

I tried to start my Chrysler Pacifica in the morning. The car would not start, and all of the vehicle's dashboard warning lights came on at different times when i pressed the On/Off ignition button. There was no clear, or coherent error message being displayed about what was wrong with the vehicle. Every warning light came on and off. The vehicle's computer module appeared to have malfunctioned. I was finally able to start the car, and brought it to the dealer for checking. The dealer informed me it was simply a low battery problem, but could not explain to me why all of the warning lights on the dashboard and console came on and off. Nothing in the owner's manual explained this sort of issue. I feel very unsafe with this vehicle, as the computer can display warning messages randomly, and disable the vehicle.