2010 NISSAN ALTIMA Electrical System Problems

I am having problems with my ECU malfunctioning which is causing my catalytic converter my exhaust manifold and my O2 sensors to malfunction. I'm having all the same issues as the recall campaign reference number NTB 12-040 d

Batteries continue to go dead, have had at least 8 batteries since 2012. Nissan started charging me for batteries got too be expensive & told them this is a huge concern because I travel alone & if I get stranded this is unsafe for me. Gave me all kinds of excuses as to why batteries are going dead. Again, my car is in the driveway with a dead battery. Thank goodness I wasn't travelling, stopped at a rest area & came out to a dead battery. I have to pull my backup for the mileage reference first time I had a dead battery. I can't upload any information because of not enough memory, but I do have all backup.

Yes, while driving down Atlanta Highway I was going around 55 mph then all of a sudden saw smoke was coming from the front passenger side of the vehicle. When I pulled over Flames was coming from the front right side and spread it to the center of the front hood, then spread it to the front seat and passenger side seat of the vehicle. I didn’t call 911 and fire services responded and put the fire out. According to the Montgomery Police Department, Delano police support Center vehicle was not involved in any type of car accident.

This vehicle has a major electrical issue. A long time ago, I used to use my keyfob to open doors remotely and used the push start button to get the car running. I can no longer do this. when I couldn't do this any longer, went through several mechanics. They could not fix this problem. Finally, they had to use a bypass method where now I have to use a different way to start the car. The mechanic had to install a push bypass button. This is how I can only start the car now. 1. I depress the brake paddle 2. Insert the keyfob in a hole (located at the bottom the left side of the steering wheel) 3. Press the start button 4. Then hit this bypass button I don't know if anybody is having this issue but this has become a nuisance for me.

THERE ARE two ISSUES WITH THIS VEHICLE. FIRST, THE COST TO REPLACE A HEADLIGHT BULB IF ONE GOES OUT IS VERY HIGH (I PAID WELL OVER A HUNDRED DOLLARS), AND THUS MANY PEOPLE MAY NOT BEABLE TO REPLACE THE LIGHT, WHICH I BELIEVE IS A SAFETY ISSUE. Second, this vehicle does NOT have the means to start it with a real key. It ONLY starts with the key fob. Thus, in the event that something happens to the key fob, like if it breaks or if the battery goes dead, the vehicle cannot be started. I believe this would cause a safety issue, in the event that a driver should be stuck on the side of the road, especially in bad weather, and cannot start the vehicle to move out of the way of any traffic or other dangers. I did question the manufacturer about this issue which is the...

Inspection is available, but note that car is in very poor shape and melted. All persons in the vehicle at the time of the incident were in extreme danger as the car showed no warning signed in the engine heat or check lights in the dashboard before the engine sputtered and slowed, the electrical sparked, and the whole front of the car caught on fire. The fire spread on a matter of 10 minutes and burst the windshield and front tires from the flames. Police inspected the remains of the vehicle and were unable to discover the source outside of the leaking oil still on fire by the electrical unit. Claim has been reported to insurance provider for their review.

Was driving home on a rather busy highway, had my cruise control set at 65 mph, then the cruise control just shut off, no warning indications, no alerts, just poof off. It caused my car to lose speed instantly and caused a great deal of concern for both myself and everyone around me, this is now the second time this has happened within a month. Have not had time to take it to a dealership yet going to do so next week and see if they cant figure it out.

I have three issues with this car. The dash has melted, so much so I could not see out the windshield if the sun was out. The glare on the dash was blinding. I called Nissan and spoke to agent 'shelly', ID #7312915, case # 32725497 in September 2018. I took it to one Nissan dealership and they said not a manufacturing defect, but gave me a quote of $3500 to repair. Took to another Nissan dealership and they gave me another quote for a repair using a dash from the junk yard for 1/2 the price. I gave up and finally purchased a dash cover in August 2019 for around $300 from carparts.com and installed it myself. Very much a driving/safety concern! The sunroof leaks if more than a sprinkle. The back floor board stand in 3" of water. I have to take it to the dealership to have...

ERROR CODES THROUGH SENSOR WARNINGS, I REPLACE ONE SENSOR NOW ANOTHER SENSOR ERROR. I'M ABOUT 1000.00 IN REPLACING ELECTRICIAL ISSUES AND MECHANIC SAYS THE CAR IS HAVING ELECTRICAL ISSUES AND HE CAN'T FIGURE IT OUT. CAR WON'T RUN LONGER THAN 30 MINS. REPLACED CRANK SHAFT SENSOR AND APP SENSOR.

THE AUTOMATIC LOCKS AREN'T WORKING. ONLY THE FRONT PASSENGER AND BACK DRIVERS SIDE WILL LOCK AND UNLOCK WITH THE KEY FOB OR SWITCHES. THE BACK PASSENGER SIDE WILL LOCK WITH THE FOB AND SWITCH, BUT IT WON'T UNLOCK. DRIVERS SIDE HAS TO BE LOCKED AND UNLOCKED MANUALLY.

THE STEERING WHEEL LOCK

WHEN ACCELERATING FROM 20MPH TO 40MPH THE RPMS INCREASE TO 3RPM AND THE TRANSMISSION HESITATES TO CHANGE THE GEAR. IT SEEMS TO BE AN ISSUE WITH THE TCM (TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE). I BOUGHT MY CAR BRAND NEW IN 2010. IT HAS 220,000 MILES ON IT. I DID SOME RESEARCH ONLINE AND SAW THIS US A KNOWN ISSUE WITH THE CAR. NISSAN ALSO SENT OUT A BULLETIN NTB10-121B. THEY SHOULD RECALL THESE CARS AND FIX THE ISSUE AT THEIR COST. ATTACHED IS THE PDF OF THE BULLETIN.

2010 NISSAN ALTIMA HAS AN EXTREMELY DANGEROUS SAFETY DEFECT THAT MANY OTHER CONSUMERS ARE ALSO EXPERIENCING, NOT JUST ME. (SEE NHTSA ID # 10899578). I HAVE ALMOST BEEN REAR-ENDED SEVERAL TIMES, SOMETIMES WITH MY SMALL CHILDREN IN THE CAR, BECAUSE OF THIS PROBLEM. THE EXTREMELY DANGEROUS SAFETY DEFECT IS THE CAR TURNS OFF COMPLETELY WHILE COMING TO STOP, WHEN STOPPED, AND/OR WHEN ACCELERATING FROM STOP. ALL SYSTEMS TURN OFF INCLUDING THE ABILITY TO STEER AND STOP. AFTER TURNING OFF, THE CAR WILL NOT IMMEDIATELY TURN BACK ON. TOOK THE CAR TO THE DEALER SEVERAL TIME BUT THE DEALER WAS UNABLE TO DIAGNOSE THE PROBLEM. THE DEALER REPLACED THE TRANSMISSION, SINCE IT HAD A RECALL AND WAS UNDER WARRANTY, TO SEE IF IT FIXED THE PROBLEM. IT DID NOT, AS THE VEHICLE TURNED OFF THIS MORNING, 8/14/18, WHEN COMING TO A STOP ON A MAIN CITY STREET. I WAS ALMOST REAR-ENDED...

VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY. ORIGINAL BATTERY WENT DEAD IN 2012, ADDITIONAL BATTERIES INSTALLED IN 2013, 2014, 2015 BY THE DEALER AND TOWED TO THE DEALER. AAA INSTALLED BATTERIES IN 2016 AND MAY OF 2018., I DID NOT GO BACK TO THE DEALER. DEALER TOLD ME FIRST TIME WAS DUE TO THE WEATHER, THEN THEY TOLD ME I WAS NOT PUTTING ENOUGH MILES ON MY CAR, THEY INSTALLED A LARGER BATTERY AND THIS ONE ALSO WENT DEAD. I DID TELL THE DEALER THIS WAS A HUGE SAFETY CONCERN FOR ME BECAUSE MOST OF THE TIME I TRAVEL ALONE BOTH IN-STATE AND OUT-OF STATE, IF MEMORY SERVES ME CORRECTLY THIS IS WHEN THE DEALER INSTALLED A LARGER BATTERY AND THIS ONE ALSO WENT DEAD. DIAGNOSTIC TESTING BY THE DEALER AND MECHANIC SHOWED NOTHING BUT SOMETHING ELECTRICAL IS CAUSING SO MANY BATTERIES TO GO DEAD..I ALSO TOLD NISSAN USA THIS WAS A HUGE SAFETY...

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA. ON MULTIPLE OCCASIONS, THE AIR CONDITIONING AND HEATING UNIT FAILED TO OPERATE. THE CONTACT ALSO STATED THAT THE DASHBOARD DISINTEGRATED AND THE RADIO MALFUNCTIONED AND FAILED TO OPERATE. THERE WERE NO WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO HILL NISSAN (6401 CYPRESS GARDENS BLVD, WINTER HAVEN, FL 33884, (863) 299-2161) WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE DASHBOARD AND THE HVAC WERE CORRODED AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS SCHEDULED TO BE REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 138,025. *TT *AS

ON 9/10/17 ABOUT NOON WHILE DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY, THE BRAKE LIGHT ON THE DASH BOARD CAME ON, PULLED TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. WHILE LOOKING FOR SERVICE PHONE NUMBER, SMELLED SOMETHING BURNING, EXITED THE CAR, AND ALMOST IMMEDIATELY THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT AND THEN THE CAR WAS ENGULFED IN FLAMES.

WHEN THE CAR IS TURNED OFF, THE STEERING WHEEL LOCKS AND THE CAR DOES NOT TURN BACK ON. TO TURN THE CAR IN CAN TAKE AN UPWARDS OF 15 MIN OF FIGHTING WITH THE WHEEL. WE BELIEVE THERE IS A PROBLEM WITH THE ESCL.

KEY FOB IS INSERTED IN SLOT AND ALL LIGHTS AND GUAGES WILL LIGHT UP, WINDOWS GO UP AND DOWN, DOORS WILL LOCK AND UNLOCK, BUT WHEN BRAKE DEPRESSED AND START PUSH BUTTON IS PRESSED CAR WILL NOT START. BATTERY LESS THAT 6 MONTHS OLD (JUST REPLACED IN ATTEMPT TO FIX PROBLEM). BRAKE SWITCH JUST REPLACED IN ADDITIONAL ATTEMPT TO FIX PROBLEM. NISSAN DEALER IN ST. LOUIS LISTS THIS AS A RECALL FOR 2010 MODELS, DEALER IN MARION, IL SAYS IT IS NOT. MARION DEALER REPLACED TWO PARTS [24167-ZX00J HARNESS -SUB] AND [25320-JN00A SWITCH ASSY-STOP LAMP] AT COST TO CUSTOMER OF $567. FOR PARTS AND LABOR. CAR STILL WOULD NOT START. DEALER STATED THAT ON "TSB" THEY "FOUND SIMILAR CONCERNS" AND ADDITIONAL PARTS NEED TO BE INSTALLED LISTED IN PROCEDURE," AND "CONFIRMED POWER IS SWITCHING AT BCM BUT NOT ENGAGING STARTER NEED TO REPLACE BCM AND DIAG FURTHER - QUOTED CUSTOMER...

JUST FILED COMPLAINT # 11000784. FOUND ADDITIONAL INFORMATION ON INTERNET DATED MARCH 7, 2017 - "NISSAN ALTIMA AND MAXIMA STEERING LOCK PROBLEM WILL BE FIXED FOR FREE AFTER THE AUTOMAKER ANNOUNCED A 'SERVICE CAMPAIGN' FOR 243,000 MODEL YEAR 2009-2010 NISSAN ALTIMA, ALTIMA COUPE, ALTIMA HYBRID AND MAXIMA CARS. ALTHOUGH NOT A RECALL, THE SERVICE CAMPAIGN WILL FIX STEERING LOCKS (ECLS) THAT LOCK THE STEERING WHEEL WHEN THE ALTIMA AND MAXIMA CARS ARE PARKED AND TURNED OFF. HOWEVER, THOSE STEERING LOCKS HAVE SERIOUS PROBLEMS AND CAN LEAVE OWNERS AND THEIR CARS SITTING IN PARKING LOTS OR DRIVEWAYS." "NISSAN HAS AGREED TO REPLACE THE STEERING LOCK WITH AN ELECTRONIC STEERING COLUMN BOX AT NO CHARGE FOR PARTS AND LABOR, A JOB THAT SHOULD TAKE AN AUTHORIZED NISSAN DEALER ABOUT AN HOUR TO COMPLETE." "THE ELECTRONIC STEERING COLUMN BOX WILL REPLACE THE ESCL ASSEMBLY BUT WILL NO LONGER LOCK THE STEERING WHEEL WHEN...

I HAVE HAD THREE SEPARATE OCCASIONS WHERE WHEN DRIVING THE VEHICLE AND ATTEMPTING TO TURN INTO A CORNER THE CAR COMPLETELY SHUTS OFF AND LOSES ALL POWER AND ABILITY TO STEER. THE FIRST TWO OCCASIONS OCCURRED WHERE I COULD SIMPLY PLACE THE CAR IN PARK AND RESTART AS IF NOTHING HAPPENED. THE LAST OCCURRENCE 2/9/17 HAPPENED AS DESCRIBED ABOVE WAS TURNING INTO AN ALLEY GOING LESS THAN 20MPH WHEN CAR JUST SHUT OFF. I PLACED THE CAR IN PARK AND WHEN I ATTEMPTED TO RESTART, THE CAR TURNED ON BUT WHEN PUSHING THE GAS THE CAR WOULD BARELY ACCELERATE. I HAD THE CAR TOWED AND THE WRECKER TRIED TO DRIVE THE CAR ONTO THE TOW TRUCK BUT WAS UNABLE TO GET IT UP THE BED AS IT DIDNT HAVE ANY POWER TO DRIVE UP THE BED. I TOOK IT TO A NISSAN DEALERSHIP WHO RAN DIAGNOSTICS AND STATED THAT THERE...

FRONT WINDOWS WILL ROLL DOWN BY THEMSELVES

OVER THE YEARS IVED HAD MULTIPLE PROBLEMS WITH THE BRANKE AND ENGINE OF MY 2010 ALTIMA. THE PANEL LIGHTS UP BUT THE ENGINE DOES NOT CRANK. PUSHING THE IGNITION BUTTON ONLY LOCKS THE BRAKE.NO WARNING SIGNALS EITHER THE CAR JUST DIES ON YOU IVED PAID OVER 700 EVERYTIME IT NEEDS REPAIR, IM VERY FRUSTRATED WITH MY CAR AND WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER NISSAN VEHICLE.

THE VEHICLE COULD NOT START WHEN TRYING TO START THE ENGINE, 'THE INSTRUMENT PANEL LIGHTS UP, AND 'THE ENGINE DOES NOT CRANK, (NO CRANK, NO START), (HYBRID 'READY' WILL NOT LIGHT), AND 'THE IGNITION PUSH BUTTON IS NOT RESPONSIVE (NO ACTION OCCURS WHEN THE BUTTON IS PRESSED ADDITIONAL TIMES). THIS HAS HAPPENED MULTIPLE TIMES OVER THE LAST SEVERAL YEARS

I HAVE NUMEROUS STARTING PROBLEMS AND THE VDC,ABS, AND SLIP LIGHT COME ON WHILE DRIVING. SOMETIMES IT CAN TAKE 4 OR 5 TRIES UNTIL THE VEHICLE STARTS WITH THE PUSH BUTTON START. THE BATTERY,ALTERNATOR AND STARTER HAVE BEEN CHECKED AND FOUND TO BE IN GOOD WORKING ORDER. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE AS THE NUMEROUS LIGHTS THAT COME ON WHILE DRIVING PRESENT A PROBLEM ESPECIALLY IF THE ABS SYSTEM LIGHT COMES ON WHILE DRIVING.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA. WHILE STATIONARY, THE VEHICLE FAILED TO SWITCH OUT OF PARK WITHOUT WARNING. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS ABLE TO BE MOVED AFTER BEING RESTARTED SEVERAL TIMES. IN ADDITION, THE DOOR LOCKS FAILED TO ENGAGE UNTIL THE VEHICLE REACHED 15 MPH. THE CONTACT ALSO STATED THAT THE KEY FOB ACTIVATED BY ITSELF ON NUMEROUS OCCASIONS AND CAUSED THE DOORS TO UNLOCK AND THE POWER WINDOWS TO ROLL DOWN WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURES. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 12,000.

TAKATA RECAL. WE PURCHASED VEHICLE USED. OUR 2ND ALTIMA. HAD PROBLEMS ABOUT 6 MONTHS AFTER GETTING THE CAR. IT WOULDN'T START. BRAKES WOULDN'T EVEN COMPRESS. REPLACED BATTERY AND WORKED FOR A FEW WEEKS. SAME ISSUE CONTINUED. CABIN LIGHTS WOULD COME ON, NEW BATTERY BUT STILL NOT STARTING. HAD STARTER REPLACED AND WORKED FOR A WHILE AGAIN. SAME ISSUE AGAIN. GET STUCK IN RANDOM PLACES. SOME DAYS IT STARTS, OTHERS IT DOESN'T. CALLING FOR A JUM START DOESN'T WORK EITHER. UNRELIABLE AND UNSTABLE. CALLED DEALERSHIP, MOSSY NISSAN. THEY WANTS OVER $200 JUST FOR DIAGNOSTIC AND THEN COULD BE A NUMBER OF PROBLEMS. ALSO SAID BREAK HARNESS/SWITCH SEEMS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM. VDC LIGHTS ALSO COME ON AT RANDOM TIMES WHILE DRIVING. THERE SEEMS TO BE A COMMON ISSUE WITH THESE MODELS. NISSAN SHOULD HANDLE ALL REPAIR EXPENSES. CAR WAS STATIONARY AT ALL TIMES IT WOULDN'T START. THIS WEEK IS WOULDN'T...

THE STEERING LOCK MECHANISM IS FAULTY AND WILL NOT LET THE CAR START. THE VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY WHERE FAILURE OCCURRED. I'VE DONE RESEARCH ON THIS PROBLEM AND IT APPEARS NISSAN EXTENDED THE WARRANTY FOR THIS PART BUT NEVER ISSUED A RECALL SO THAT IT COULD BE FIXED. IT IS A SAFETY ISSUE THAT NEEDS TO BE TAKEN CARE OF BY NISSAN. PEOPLE ARE BEING STRANDED BECAUSE THEIR CAR WILL NOT START BUT SEEMS NO ONE KNOWS ABOUT THE POTENTIAL PROBLEM UNTIL THEY ARE STRANDED. THIS IS AN ISSUE THAT NISSAN HAS ADMITTED IS A MANUFACTURING PROBLEM. I FOR ONE WILL NEVER BUY A NISSAN AGAIN BECAUSE OF THE POOR CUSTOMER SERVICE. THINGS BREAK, AND PARTS FAIL, BUT THIS PARTICULAR ISSUE IS VERY VERY COMMON ON 2009-2011 MODELS.

ALL FOUR OF DOOR LOCKS FAILED, WILL NOT LOCK OR UNLOCK PLUS 1 WINDOW FAILED, WILL NOT LOWER.

WHEN I TRIED TO START THE CAY WITH THE PUSH BUTTON START IT WOULD NOT RESPOND. I TESTED THE BATTERY WHICH IS ONLY 1 YEAR OLD AND IS IN GOOD CONDITION. I TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP (NISSAN LEGACY) WHO REPORTED THAT THERE WAS AN ISSUE WITH THE BRAKE SWITCH AND HARNESS WHICH NEED TO BE REPLACED. I HAVE READY ONLINE THAT THERE WERE MULTIPLE INCIDENTS WITH THIS HAPPENING TO THIS MAKE AND MODEL

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE FAILED TO START ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS AND THE ABS AND VDC WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE RESTARTED AFTER THE VEHICLE WAS JUMPSTARTED; HOWEVER, THE FAILURE RECURRED ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH WAS FAULTY AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 67,000.

I HAVE A 2010 ALTIMA THAT HAS THE SAME SAFETY PROBLEM AS HAS BEEN REPORTED ON THIS WEB SITE AND MANY OTHER AUTOMOTIVE COMPLAINT WEB SITES MANY, MANY TIMES (NOT ONLY FOR THIS NISSAN PRODUCT BUT VARIOUS NISSAN PRODUCTS OF EARLIER YEARS). NAMELY, THE SWITCH THAT OPERATES THE BRAKE LIGHTS FAILS INTERMITTENTLY. WHEN IT FAILS THE BRAKE LIGHTS WON'T ILLUMINATE WHEN THE DRIVER STEPS ON THE BRAKE. THIS IS A REAR END COLLISION WAITING TO HAPPEN! DOES THE NHTSA HAVE TO WAIT UNTIL SOMEONE IS KILLED BEFORE REQUIRING A MANUFACTURER TO FIX A DEFECT THAT BOTH THE MANUFACTURER AND NHTSA KNEW ABOUT FOR SEVERAL YEARS? TO MAKE MATTERS WORSE, WHEN THE SWITCH FAILS THE ANTI-LOCK BRAKING AND TRACTION CONTROL SYSTEMS ARE DISABLED POSING AN ADDITIONAL SAFETY RISK. TO MAKE MATTER WORSE, WHEN THE SWITCH FAILS THE CAR WON'T START. WOULD YOU LIKE TO BE STUCK IN A DARK, DESERTED AREA...

ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS THE VEHICLE HAS FAILED TO START WHEN THE BRAKE WAS DEPRESSED. AT THE PRESENT TIME THE ABS LIGHT, SLIP AND VDC ARE NOW ILLUMINATED AFTER DRIVING THE CAR FOR A FEW MINUTES. IT IS MY UNDERSTANDING THAT THIS IS SUPPOSED TO BLINK IF THERE IS A PROBLEM DRIVING IN WET ROAD CONDITIONS OR IT IS SLIPPERY. I HAVE READ NUMEROUS COMPLAINTS FROM OTHER OWNERS HAVING THE SAME ISSUE WITH THE CAR NOT STARTING. IT TAKES SEVERAL TRIES IN ORDER TO GET THE CAR TO TURNOVER AND START. I BELIEVE THAT NISSAN NEEDS TO INVESTIGATE THIS ISSUE FURTHER AND ISSUE A RECALL FOR THESE VEHICLES.

THIS SPECIALLY ORDERED ALTIMA COUPE 3.5 WOULD NOT START ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS, BEGINNING ONLY A YEAR OR SO AFTER IT WAS DELIVERED TO ME FROM THE FACTORY. EACH TIME, THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS NEXT TO IMPOSSIBLE TO DEPRESS, AND THE CAR MADE CLICKING SOUNDS WHEN THE START PUSH BUTTON WAS PRESSED. SEVERAL JUMP STARTS AFTER THE FIRST TIME THIS HAPPENED, ON A SUNDAY, I DECIDED TO TRY REPLACING THE BATTERY. BECAUSE NISSAN'S SERVICE CENTER WERE NOT OPEN IN MY AREA, I PURCHASED A NEW BATTERY FROM A RETAIL STORE. WHEN I PHONED NISSAN'S SERVICE CENTER THE FOLLOWING MONDAY, I WAS TOLD THAT BECAUSE I DID NOT BRING THE VEHICLE TO THEM (THEY WANTED THE ENTIRE CAR, NOT JUST THE BATTERY, EVEN THOUGH THE NISSAN SHOP WAS CLOSED), I WAS NOT ENTITLED TO A PRORATED REFUND ON THE OLD BATTERY. APPROXIMATELY 1 1/2 - 2 YEARS LATER, THE SAME PROBLEM BEGAN...

PURCHASED USED CAR FROM INFINITI DEALER IN FORT MYERS FLORIDA. THREE DAYS LATER I WAS UNABLE TO GET A GAS GAUGE READING AND THE CAR WOULD NOT START. I WAITED A MINUTE AND THE CAR STARTED. THIS HAS HAPPENED 6 TIMES OUT OF THE 10 DAYS I HAVE OWNED THE CAR. I AM READING OTHER COMPLAINTS AND FOUND THAT OTHER OWNERS OF THE 2010 ALTIMA ARE HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM WITH THE CAR NOT STARTING281. I THINK A CAR WITH 26,000 MILES SHOULD START WITHOUT A PROBLEM. *TR

THE CAR FAILED TO START BECAUSE THE BRAKE SWITCH AND THE ENTIRE HARNESS SUB FAILED. I HAD TO TOW AWAY THE CAR TO THE NEAREST NISSAN SHOWROOM AND WAS CHARGED $440 TO REPLACE HARNESS-SUB, SWITCH ASSY STO, BAND HOSE PLUS LABOR. PS: THIS IS A KNOWN PROBLEM BUT NISSAN WONT REFUND MY MONEY. HOW CAN A VEHICLE JUST UNDER 50K FAIL FOR SUCH A THING IF NOT FOR A BAD FACTORY HARNESS. *TR

MY 2010 ALTIMA HAD BEEN GOING DEAD FOR THE LAST 3 DAYS. I HAVE TO GET A JUMP A JUMP IN THE AM FOR WORK AND AFTER WORK WHEN I LEAVE. I TOOK THE VEHICLE TO AN AUTO PARTS STORE TO TEST THE BATTERY AND WAS TOLD THE BATTERY WAS EFFICIENT SO I AM PUZZLED AS TO WHY THIS HAS BEEN HAPPENING. I WAS TOLD IT MAY BE THE ALTERNATOR. TODAY MY CAR WOULDN'T START OR EVEN TAKE A JUMP FROM ANOTHER VEHICLE SO I WAS LEFT STUCK. I BELIEVE HERE SHOULD BE A RECALL ON THIS MAKE N MODEL FOR THESE ELECTRICAL ISSUES OR AT LEAST A DISCOUNT ON ALTERNATOR REPLACEMENTS AT THE DEALERSHIP. *TR

PROBLEM WITH BATTERY GOING DEAD, I HAVE READ THERE IS A FAULT IN THE BCM NOT BEING PROGRAMMED PROPERLY. *TR

I HAVE READ NUMEROUS ACCOUNTS OF THE NISSAN ALTIMA BEING UNABLE TO START WHEN THE REQUIRED BRAKE/START BUTTON IS USED. I AM HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM. WHEN THE BRAKE IS APPLIED AND THE START BUTTON PUSHED, THE ACC LIGHT COMES ON THEN, IF PUSHED AGAIN, THE ON LIGHT COMES ON (OVER THE START BUTTON). THEN WHEN PUSHED AGAIN, THE SYSTEM SHUTS OFF. BY TRYING SEVERAL TIMES AND PUMPING THE BRAKE, THE CAR WILL EVENTUALLY START. SINCE THIS HAS BEEN REPORTED NUMEROUS TIMES, THERE IS OBVIOUSLY A DEFECT IN THE CAR'S PARTS/SYSTEM. THERE SHOULD BE A RECALL TO HAVE NISSAN REPLACE THE FAULTY PARTS FREE OF CHARGE. *TR

NORFOLK, VIRGINIA - MY 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA WITH PUSH BUTTON START FAILED TO START. ALL OTHER ELECTRICAL SEEMED FINE. I HAD JUST PREVIOUSLY NOTICED THE ABS, VDC AND SLIP WARNING LIT WHILE DRIVING. AFTER CHECKING FUSES, KEY FOB BATTERIES, ETC. I ATTEMPTED TO PUMP THE BRAKES SEVERAL TIMES AND IT FINALLY STARTED. DROVE IMMEDIATELY TO THE DEALER WHERE I WAS TOLD IT WAS THE BRAKE LAMP SWITCH AND HARNESS WHICH MUST BE REPLACED AT A COST OF $550.00. HE SEEMED TO KNOW WITH OUT OF EVEN LOOKING WHAT THE PROBLEM WAS. WHEN I QUESTIONED HIM ABOUT SUCH AN EXPENSIVE SWITCH, HE ONLY SAID "THIS HAPPENS A LOT WITH THIS MODEL." THIS SHOULD BE RECALLED AND FIXED AT NISSAN'S EXPENSE. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA. AFTER THE PUSH TO START BUTTON WAS INSTALLED, THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT RESTART AFTER BEING DRIVEN AFTER APPROXIMATELY 15 MINUTES. THE CONTACT MENTIONED THAT THE VDS, SLIP, AND BRAKE WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED. WHEN ATTEMPTING TO DEPRESS THE BRAKE PEDAL IN ORDER TO START THE VEHICLE, THE BRAKE PEDAL WAS ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO DEPRESS. THE FAILURE OCCURRED MULTIPLE TIMES. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE DEALER AND THE TECHNICIAN STATED THAT THE BRAKE SWITCH WAS DEFECTIVE, WHICH PREVENTED THE VEHICLE FROM STARTING. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 20,000.

MY 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA IS NOT ABLE TO START DUE TO THE PUSH BUTTON IGNITION. IT IS HAVING THE SAME ISSUE AS THE 2009 NISSAN MAXIMA'S AND ALTIMA ARE HAVING, WHICH IS THE ELECTRONIC STEERING COLUMN LOCK (ESCL). NISSAN HAS ISSUED A WARRANTY EXTENSION FOR THIS ISSUE FOR THE 2009 MODEL BUT NOT FOR THE 2010 AND OTHER ALTIMA MODELS THAT ARE HAVING THE SAME ISSUE. I BELIEVE THAT NISSAN SHOULD EXTEND IT COVERAGE TO THIS VITAL PART DUE TO THE COST BEING OVER $700 TO REPLACE AND THE FACT THAT WITHOUT THIS PART, THE CAR CANNOT FUNCTION AT ALL. *TR

NISSAN ALTIMA 2010 (~25K MILES SO FAR) WOULD NOT START UPON PRESS THE START BUTTON, SO THE CAR IS IMMOBILIZED. WALKED AWAY, CAME BACK 15 MINUTES, AND BY CHANCE, IT STARTED. THIS HAPPEN SEVERAL TIMES FOR THE PAST 2 MONTHS. THE LAST TRY, NO SUCH LUCK WHEN ATTEMPT TO START THE CAR. CHECK THE CAR BATTERY WAS AT 45%. SO I CHARGED THE BATTERY TO 100% AND STILL NO LUCK STARTING THE CAR. CALL NISSANASSIST AND RECOMMENDED THE CAR BE TOWED TO NISSAN AUTHORIZED SERVICE CENTER. I DID AND THEIR DIAGNOSIS ($119.00) ARE A BAD BRAKE SWITCH/WIRING HARNESS COMBO ISSUE AND COST ABOUT OVER $600.00. THE CAR IS NOW OUT OF WARRANTY. THE LOCAL SERVICE MANAGER SAID "OFF THE RECORD", THIS KNOWN DEFECTIVE BRAKE SWITCH WILL NOT ALLOW THE CAR TO START, ALSO IT IS CONSUMING THE BATTERY ELECTRICAL CURRENT AND OVER TIME. THIS CONTINUOUS BLEEDING OF CURRENT WILL HEAT...

WHEN YOU TRY TO START VEHICLE YOU PUSH ON BRAKE PEDAL, BUT THE PEDAL DOESN'T GO DOWN 1/16 OF AN INCH. THE BRAKE LIGHTS WONT EVEN COME ON. IF YOU PUSH THE START BUTTON IT WILL ONLY GO TO THE ACCESSORY THEN OFF. WHEN I ASKED SERVICE MANAGER AT NELSON NISSAN IN BROKEN ARROW, OK AND I QUOTE "HE SAID YOU HAD TO HAVE KEY ON BEFORE BRAKE LIGHTS WOULD COME ON"... I AM LIKE REALLY!!! THE BRAKE LIGHTS UMM NO THEY SHOULD COME ON ANYTIME YOU PUSH THE BRAKE IF THE KEY IS ON OR NOT. PLEASE HELP US AMERICAN'S AND OTHER HARD WORKING TAX PAYING PEOPLE GET OUR CARS FIXED. WE PAID GOOD HARD EARNED MONEY FOR THEM AND NOW ALL WE HAVE IN A LEMON IN ARE GARAGE. THANKS SO MUCH FOR YOU TIME, GOD BLESS YOU! AND GOD BLESS AMERICA!!! *TR

THE CAR WILL NOT START, STEERING LOCK MALFUNCTION. *TR

THE BRAKE COULDN'T BE PRESSED SO THE PUSH BUTTON START WOULDN'T WORK. ALSO, THE ABS & VDC LIGHTS STAY ON EVEN WHILE DRIVING(SOMETIMES). YOU NEVER KNOW WHEN ITS GOING TO HAPPEN. I HAVE BEEN LATE TO WORK, UNABLE TO TAKE THE KIDS TO SCHOOL, AND AFRAID TO DRIVE MY OWN CAR THAT I USED TO LOVE, IN FEAR OF NOT BEING ABLE TO START THE DARN THING!! I SEE A LOT OF CUSTOMERS HAVE HAD THIS SAME TYPE OF ISSUE. IS THERE ANY KIND OF RECALL? *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE PUSH-TO-START BUTTON FAILED TO RESPOND. THE CONTACT ALSO STATED THAT THE ABS AND THE SLP WARNING LIGHTS ILLUMINATED. THE VEHICLE WOULD START AFTER MULTIPLE ATTEMPTS OR THE VEHICLE WOULD HAVE TO RECEIVE A JUMP START TO THE BATTERY FROM ANOTHER VEHICLE IN ORDER TO START PROPERLY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING AND THE MECHANIC STATED THAT THE BRAKE AND THE PARK LIGHT SWITCH FAILED. AS A RESULT THE WIRING HARNESS NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 100.

CAR HAD INTERMITTENT NO START CONDITION AND INTERMITTENT BRAKE LIGHT OUTAGE. MECHANIC REPLACED FAULTY ORIGINAL STOP LAMP SWITCH 25320-AX00C(N). *TR

MY CAR WOULDN'T START WHEN I PUSHED THE PUSH BUTTON START AND PRESSED ON THE BRAKE PEDAL. LATER THAT DAY THE CAR STARTED. I HAD IT CHECKED AND THE DEALER SAID IF IT HAPPENED AGAIN TO HAVE IT TOWED.YESTERDAY THE CAR WOULDN'T START AGAIN WHEN I PRESSED THE BRAKE PEDAL AND PUSHED THE START BUTTON. AFTER REPEATED ATTEMPTS TO GET THE BRAKE PEDAL TO START THE CAR, IT STARTED. IT IS GOING TO THE DEALER TO BE CHECKED. THE STARTING MECHANISM IS POOR AND UNRELIABLE. *TR

MY 2010 ALTIMA HAS A PUSH START IGNITION LAST MONTH WHILE VISITING IN PA THE BRAKE LIGHT, VDC, AND SLIP LIGHT CAME ON AND REMAINS ON. WE STOPPED AND THEN THE CAR FAILED TO RESTART. WE WERE ABLE TO GET BACK HOME TO NY AND I TOOK IT TO MY LOCAL DEALER WHERE THEY RAN A DIAGNOSTIC TEST RESULT WAS A BAD BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH. WHICH COMPLETES THE CIRCUIT FROM THE BRAKE TO THE PUSH START BUTTON TO ALLOW THE CAR TO START. I RESEARCHED ON LINE AND FOUND A FEW DIFFERENT FORUMS ONE BEING NISSANCLUB.COM WHERE I FOUND A NUMBER OF PPL WITH THE SAME ISSUE. I CONTACTED NISSAN CUSTOMER AFFAIRS AND GOT NOWHERE. I WAS WONDERING HOW MANY PPL WITH THE SAME ISSUE ARE NEEDED FOR AN ISSUE LIKE THIS TO BE CONSIDERED A RECALL BECAUSE WITH THAT BEING A DAMAGED PART THERE IS NO OTHER WAY TO...

MY 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA HAS HAD DIFFICULTY STARTING. ALL THE ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS WOULD COME ON BUT THE ENGINE WOULDN'T TURNOVER. AT FIRST I COULD GET IT TO START AFTER A FEW TRIES (I WOULD PUMP THE BRAKES, BANG ON THE STEERING WHEEL). THEN I NOTICED WHILE DRIVING THE VDS (TRACTION CONTROL), ABS AND PARKING BRAKE LIGHT WOULD REMAIN ILLUMINATED WHILE DRIVING. THIS MEANT THAT MY VDS WAS NOT FUNCTIONING. IT ALSO MEANT MY BRAKE LIGHTS WEREN'T FUNCTIONING WHILE I WAS DRIVING. ON 6 /01/2014 I TRIED STARTING MY CAR AND COULD NOT. I HAD IT TOWED TO MY AUTO REPAIR SHOP (MAPLE GROVE AUTO, MAPLE GROVE MN) WHERE THE TECHNICIAN INFORMED ME THAT IT REQUIRED A NEW BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH, HARNESS AND BAND HOSES. HE TOLD ME THERE WAS A NISSAN SERVICE BULLETIN AS THIS WAS A "KNOWN ISSUE". SO MUCH SO THAT NISSAN HAD ACTUALLY DEVELOPED A MORE DEPENDABLE...