2010 NISSAN ALTIMA Electronic Stability Control Esc Problems

I HAVE BEEN HAVING PROBLEMS WITH VEHICLE BUCKING TOOK TO NISSAN DEALER WAS TOLD 1 IGNITION COIL AND SPARK PLUGS PAID TO HAVE THEM REPLACED BUT ALSO HAD MENTIONED IT SMELT LIKE RAW EGGS TO THE DEALER. A FEW MONTHS LATER SAME THING TOOK TO DEALER SAID ANOTHER IGNITION COIL I APPROVED FOR THEM TO REPLACE THE REMAINING 3 IGNITION COILS SO I WOULDN'T HAVE THIS PROBLEM AGAIN AND AGAIN I TOLD THEM THAT IT SMELT LIKE RAW EGGS. NOW THE SERVICE ENGINE SOON LIGHT IS ON AND THE CODE IS FOR THE CATALYTIC CONVERTOR. WAS TOLD THAT THE EXTENDED WARRANTY WENT OUT IN APRIL. I WOULD LIKE SOME ASSISTANCE WITH THIS. ALL THE ISSUES WAS WHEN DRIVING AT BOTH HWY SPEEDS AND CITY SPEEDS

DIAGNOSED AS BODY CONTROL MODULE: DRAINS BATTERY INCLUDING NEW INSTALLED BATTERY; FOB WITH NEW BATTERY WILL NOT LOCK THE VEHICLE AND WILL NOT ACTIVATE ALARM SYSTEM AND THE VEHICLE LOCATOR BUTTON SPORADICALLY PERFORMS; FRONT PASSENGER WINDOW WILL NOT OPERATE PROPERLY (WILL NOT GO DOWN OR CONSTANTLY GOES UP AND DOWN AND SAYS IN A HALF-UP/HALF -DOWN POSITION; RADIO AND CLOCK LOSES DIGITAL DISPLAY CONSTANTLY WHEN DRIVING. NEED TO RESTART THE VEHICLE TO GET THE RADIO/CLOCK TO DISPLAY. AFRAID THE ENTIRE ELECTRONIC BODY MODULE WILL FAIL AT ANY GIVEN TIME EFFECTING THE SAFETY OPERATION OF THE VEHICLE. DATE BELOW INDICATING "WHEN DID THIS HAPPEN?" IS THE DATE IT WAS DIAGNOSED BY MECHANIC.

I HAVE HAD THREE SEPARATE OCCASIONS WHERE WHEN DRIVING THE VEHICLE AND ATTEMPTING TO TURN INTO A CORNER THE CAR COMPLETELY SHUTS OFF AND LOSES ALL POWER AND ABILITY TO STEER. THE FIRST TWO OCCASIONS OCCURRED WHERE I COULD SIMPLY PLACE THE CAR IN PARK AND RESTART AS IF NOTHING HAPPENED. THE LAST OCCURRENCE 2/9/17 HAPPENED AS DESCRIBED ABOVE WAS TURNING INTO AN ALLEY GOING LESS THAN 20MPH WHEN CAR JUST SHUT OFF. I PLACED THE CAR IN PARK AND WHEN I ATTEMPTED TO RESTART, THE CAR TURNED ON BUT WHEN PUSHING THE GAS THE CAR WOULD BARELY ACCELERATE. I HAD THE CAR TOWED AND THE WRECKER TRIED TO DRIVE THE CAR ONTO THE TOW TRUCK BUT WAS UNABLE TO GET IT UP THE BED AS IT DIDNT HAVE ANY POWER TO DRIVE UP THE BED. I TOOK IT TO A NISSAN DEALERSHIP WHO RAN DIAGNOSTICS AND STATED THAT THERE...

THE CAR DOES NOT START. TOOK OUT BATTERY AND WAS TOLD IT WAS GOOD. CHARGED IT UP AND CAR STARTED. DONE THIS MANY TIMES. TOOK IN TO NISSAN AND THEY KEPT IT 3DAYS. COULD NOT FIND ANYTHING WRONG AND PUT IN A NEW BATTERY. LAST NIGHT, HAD A HARD TIME GETTING IT STARTED WHEN PUSHING THE START BUTTON. RADIO THOUGH COMES ON.

I WAS DRIVING DOWN A RESIDENTIAL ROAD AND MY STABILITY CONTROL TURNED OFF ON ITS OWN AND I COULD NOT TURN IT BACK ON. AT THE TIME THAT IT TURNED OFF MY PARKING BRAKE LIGHT CAME ON, EVENTUALLY IT TURNED OFF BUT FLASHED ON TWO MORE TIMES AS I WAS DRIVING UP HILL. I WAS NEVER ABLE TO TURN THE VDC (ELECTRONIC STABILITY CONTROL) BACK ON. *TR

NORFOLK, VIRGINIA - MY 2010 NISSAN ALTIMA WITH PUSH BUTTON START FAILED TO START. ALL OTHER ELECTRICAL SEEMED FINE. I HAD JUST PREVIOUSLY NOTICED THE ABS, VDC AND SLIP WARNING LIT WHILE DRIVING. AFTER CHECKING FUSES, KEY FOB BATTERIES, ETC. I ATTEMPTED TO PUMP THE BRAKES SEVERAL TIMES AND IT FINALLY STARTED. DROVE IMMEDIATELY TO THE DEALER WHERE I WAS TOLD IT WAS THE BRAKE LAMP SWITCH AND HARNESS WHICH MUST BE REPLACED AT A COST OF $550.00. HE SEEMED TO KNOW WITH OUT OF EVEN LOOKING WHAT THE PROBLEM WAS. WHEN I QUESTIONED HIM ABOUT SUCH AN EXPENSIVE SWITCH, HE ONLY SAID "THIS HAPPENS A LOT WITH THIS MODEL." THIS SHOULD BE RECALLED AND FIXED AT NISSAN'S EXPENSE. *TR

CAR IS ALL OVER THE ROAD WHEN SPEED REACHES 70 MPH OR MORE. FEELS LIKE YOUR DRIVING IN A HURRICANE WHEN THERE'S NO WIND AT ALL PRESENT. BROUGHT THIS TO NISSAN'S ATTENTION, BUT THEY SAID NOTHING IS WRONG WITH THE CAR. ALSO POINTED OUT THAT THERE ARE NO CHIMES TO ALERT/REMIND YOU OF PUTTING ON SEAT BELTS. WHEN CAR IS IN MOTION, PASSENGER CAN UNDO SEATBELT AND NO WARNING CHIME WILL OCCUR. AGAIN, NISSAN SAID THIS IS NORMAL FOR THEIR CAR. *TR