2015 DODGE DART Unknown Or Other Problems

When i want to turn off my car, the key gets stuck in ACC and does not turn to off. The key wont turn all the way off gets stuck, even though I am in parking. I saw that their is a recall for this and their is no answer for this yet or remedy I mean. But it has been happening to my car every single day, every single time I drive and I am very scared for my safety. Especially when having kids or other people in the car with me.

I will be driving and there’s a click and suddenly no power just goes dead

There was a safely recall sent on Oct 9, 2025 and there’s no remedy by manufacturer and I am unsure of what to do now ?

The vehicle’s gear shifter intermittently locks in the Park position, preventing the key fob from being removed from the ignition. When this occurs, the shifter must be manually wiggled back and forth to release the key. This malfunction poses a potential safety risk, as the driver may be delayed in exiting or securing the vehicle in certain situations. The issue occurs intermittently and has not yet been inspected by a dealer or service center. No warning lights or messages appeared prior to the malfunction.

My car had a recall which was repaired with a previous owner in 2020 an the defeat is still active an the dealership is refusing to honor the service due to it being done I am currently homeless an currently rely on my car for basic transportation my car is stuck in reverse the key is stuck in the ignition an the power is draining in my batters causing more issues due to the issues related to the call that was repaired an now refract is still active

Dodge has a recall U87 over pcm not letting car to start and many other problems i have a 2015 dodge dart sxt 2.4l MultiAir with same engine as the 2017 jeeps and others stated in the U87 recall and my pcm is going out my car will start intermittently and when the car won't start the pcm feels hot why are they not replacing the pcm in the 2015 and only 2017 and up when I'm having the same issue as described in the U87 recall, I need help with getting this fixed my car has same engine as the 2017 and up stated in recall and my car is having same problem as stated in the recall dodge needs to be accountable and fix all the pcm in every year that has the same engines as the 2017 cars in the recall it will cost me thousands to...

Vehicle randomly stopped working 9 days after purchase. After a diagnose, It is the breaking of the shifter cable when trying to switch to drive.

Unable to remove key from ignition have to wiggle the gear selector to be able to remove key.

My car keeps going into neutral when I’m going down the interstate or highway with my eight-year-old in the car and I have to pull over and restart the car for it to go anywhere. There’s no warning it just does it. It says there are no unrepaired recalls on my car I bought it used, but when I looked up the recalls for the car, there were five and I know at least three of them are wrong with my car. Is there anything I can do to get these fixed? I am a single mother and I cannot afford to have it fixed. Is there anyone who can help me? To recall, I’m pretty sure it is wrong. On other Dodge darts was the transmission control module or something like that and my car is doing the same thing only it’s saying I don’t have a recall for...

The recall was for the PCM, which is the powertrain control module. Dodge reprogrammed it, but now my mechanic is telling me it actually needs to be replaced—and I’m being charged for that. I don’t believe the recall resolved the core issue, and I’m concerned the repair wasn’t thorough enough. I’d like to request that my case be escalated or reviewed for possible goodwill assistance or reimbursement. I have the VIN and documentation if you need it.

Every since July 12th, 2016 25,993 I’ve had this car checked for electrical problems at the dealership and they always say they can see the drain but they couldn’t help but the problem has been tracked down to the body control module #3 electrical that stays on drawing 1.5amps every second and surges and tons of other people have the same issue as me proof all over the internet also it leaks a ton of oil out of the pvc into the intake coating the map sensor making it idle rough

I have a back up camera as original equipment with the vehicle. For several years now, the camera will intermittently work. Many times, the camera comes on then quickly goes out. I have no picture to assist me when backing out of the driveway, the parking spot, or other situations. I need to crane my head, neck and body around to make sure the way is clear. I use the mirrors and even had my passenger get out of the car and assist in backing out of a parking spot. When I took the car to the dealership, I was told I would need to buy a new camera which costs hundreds of dollars. This week I found out there is a recall on Dodge, Jeep and Chrysler vehicles regarding the back up camera. However it does not cover the year of my vehicle which is 2015. I am wondering...

Automatic transmission shifter cable bushing on transmission side failed for the second time. This is a recalled item for this make and model. It was repaired in 2019 but has failed again. Dealer told me they would not repair again. It’s obvious the material they use to make the bushing are prematurely failing do to heat.

My car kept dying on me randomly flashing a light on my dash of a lightning bolt in between two curved lines. I researched it and it was saying that my throttle positioner was going out.

The ECM/Throttle Positioning System has been faulting for a while and only getting worse causing the car to just randomly steal with no power. Usually can shut off and restart car and itll be good for 1 min - 30 min you never really know. I got stranded in the middle of the highway and couldn't start my car after it died while driving down the road.

Safety Recall V34 NHTSA 19V293 Transmission Shift Cable Bushing – 2013-2016 Dodge Dart | FCA

The car intentionally starts. The radio sometimes works and sometimes has no power. It loses the air conditioner and power windows. It burns off excessive amounts of coolant. It smells like it is running hot but isn't. When turning key the gages bounce and it clicks and clicks. Sometimes it starts and other times it will not. Multiple people have stated the same issues. Spending good amount of money on batteries, starters and alternator. The issue continues. The car is at 94k miles.

I was driving the other day dropping off food for a customer and as I shifted my car from park to drive it wouldn’t change gears. Now let me remind u I’m stuck in the middle of these strangers driveway as they’re trying to leave their home and I cannot switch into reverse so I had to keep my foot on that break pedal the entire time. Thank god they were very understanding ( because who knows what could’ve happened) and said they were leaving for something that wasn’t very important and would go another day. Come to find out it was my CABLE SHIFTER WHICH I HAD ALREADY HAD REAPIRED PREVIOUSLY AS A RECALL. I haven’t even been able to drive the car because it will not shift into any gear. It’s currently just sitting across the street in my apartment complex as I have no way to work...

The trunk opens when it's not supposed to, it opens on its own. I changed the lock mechanism and it still opens on its own.

Clutch quite working while trying to change gears.

When car is put in park, the key is unable to be taken out of the ignition and the car remains on. Ongoing issue. Was told the previous recall (something with cable bushing) would fix the issue. It did not.

When I first got this car three years ago I had a shift problem in the transmission it got stuck in the gear and I couldn't pull the key out when I did some research I realize that there was a recall so of course I went to the dealership and have them take a look at it to fix it they said that I will still be charge in the problem wasn't even originally fixed they rigged it they just made it to where I could pull off but I was still charged and now a couple years later I am having transmission problems again and the dealership is saying that I need a transmission as I am doing a research I realize that my transmission again has a recall on it.

From control arms are welded down and some sort of screw goes through transmission. Mechanics are unable to remove and replace the front control arms because of that. If I cannot get the front control arms replaced, I cannot get an wheel alignment.

I HAVE HAD THE BRAKES REPLACED TWICE DUE TO IT SHAKING WHILE TRYING TO STOP. I ALSO HAVE PUT ON THREE SETS OF ROTORS DUE TO THE SHAKING AND EVEN WITH BRAND NEW ROTORS THE BOUNCING AND SHAKING WILL NOT GO AWAY. THE NEWEST PROBLEM NOW IS THE BRAKES NOT WANTING TO WORK. I HAVE HAD THEM CHECKED BY MECHANICS AND THEY SAY THERE'S NOTHING TO DO BUT CHANGE THEM OUT AGAIN!

LAST NIGHT I WAS DRIVING ONTO A HIGHWAY ENTRANCE. I WENT TO SWITCH FROM 1ST TO 2ND GEAR. I WAS GOING ABOUT 25 MPH WHEN THIS HAPPENED. I PUSHED IN THE CLUTCH PEDAL TO SHIFT GEARS AND I HEARD A LOUD CLICK. I LIFTED MY FOOT OFF THE PEDAL AND THE PEDAL WAS STUCK, PUSHED ALL THE WAY IN. I HAD TO PULL OFF OF THE ROAD, AND BY HAND, PULL THE PEDAL UP. NOW EVERY TIME I PUSH THE CLUTCH PEDAL IN TO SHIFT GEARS IT GETS STUCK AND I HAVE TO WEDGE MY FOOT UNDER THE PEDAL TO PULL IT BACK UP WITH MY FOOT. I ONLY DID THIS TO DRIVE MY CAR BACK HOME. I HAVEN'T DRIVEN IT SINCE.

THIS HAPPENED TO ME LAST YEAR AROUND OCTOBER TO DECEMBER AND IT IS NOW HAPPENING AGAIN. I START MY CAR AND I WILL BE DRIVING. THE CAR WILL THEN STOP RUNNING WHILE I'M IN DRIVE, STEERING WHEEL LOCKS UP BUT RADIO AND EVERYTHING WILL STILL BE ON. IT IS ALMOST LIKE MY CAR DIED. I AM THEN STUCK WHEREVER THE CAR BREAKS DOWN ON ME AT AND I WILL TRY AND START MY CAR. IT USUALLY TAKE 2 OR 3 TIMES BEFORE IT EVENTUALLY STARTS BACK UP. AND I ONLY HAVE TO TURN THE KEY OVER ONCE AND IT WILL KEEP TURNING OVER THE ENGINE UNTIL I TURN THE KEY TO TURN THE VEHICLE COMPLETELY OFF. IT ALSO SEEMS AS IF I HAVE TO SIT AND WAIT FOR THE CAR TO RUN FOR A MINUTE WHEN IT DOES START BACK UP BEFORE I CAN TAKE OFF AGAIN OR IT WILL...

MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS ON. I HAD IT CHECKED IT'S NOT READING ANYTHING. MY RIGHT TURN SIGNAL LIGHT KEEP GOING OUT. I HAVE PAID FIRESTONE IN EAST CHASE IN MONTGOMERY AL TO REPLACE THE SOCKET AND I HAVE HAD THE BULB CHANGED OUT AT LEAST 3 TIMES. MY TRUNK STARTED OUT OPENING BY IT SELF. I HAD THE BATTERY REPLACED IN THE REMOTE. NOW THE TRUNK WILL NOT OPEN AT ALL. THE REVERSE LIGHTS ARE OUT. I REPLACED THE BULBS. STILL WON'T WORK, THE TRUNK LIGHT IS OUT. NOW THE CAR HAS STARTED TO BEEP BEEP LIKE I HAVE LOCKED OR UNLOCKED THE DOOR WHEN I HAVE NOT TOUCHED IT. I HAVE TO REPLACE MY BATTERY EVERY 3 MONTHS. SOMETHING IS WRONG. I HAVE PAID MONEY AT BREWBAKER AND FIRESTONE IN MONTGOMERY AL. I STILL HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM. WHEN I START THE CAR UP. THE CAR BEEPS BEEPS...

KEY IS STAYING STUCK IN THE IGNITION. I HAVE TO KEEP PUTTING IT IN AND OUT OF PARK UNITL IT RECOGNIZES IT IS IN PARK TO SHUT OFF AND RELEASE THE KEY. IT HAPPENS WHEN I TRY TO SHUT OFF THE CAR. IT STARTED ONCE IN A WHILE AND NOW ITS EVERY TIME I DRIVE THE CAR AND PARK IT.

NO OIL LIGHT ON, NO ENGINE LIGHT, AND IT STALLED. THERE IS A PROBLEM WITH OIL CONSUMPTION WITH THE 2.4 ENGINE. MY CAR DIED AFTER BACKING OUT OF MY DRIVEWAY AND STARTING A TURN. Y CAR STALLED OUT TWICE IN THE MIDDLE OF INTERSECTIONS VERY DANGEROUS. BATTERY LIGHT CAME ON, MUSIC CONTINUED, BUT ENGINGE JUST DIED. THE STEERING WHEEL FROZE (NO MORE POWER STEERING), AND I COULDN'T PRESS MY BRAKE DOWN, IT JUST SAT THERE IN THE ROAD. I CHECKED THE LEVEL OF MY OIL AND IT DOESN'T EVEN COVER THE CURVED PART OF THE DIPSTICK, THAT'S HOW LOW IT IS.THE CAR STALLED OUT AGAIN, A FEW MONTHS AFTER THE OIL CHANGE. THE CAR IS NOT INDICATING WHEN IT NEEDS OIL, AND IS SHUTTING ITSELF OFF SO IT DOESN'T OVER HEAT WHILE DRIVING AT SPEEDS 70MPH+ AND IN THE MIDDLE OF INTERSECTIONS WHILE TURNING.

MY BRAKE CALIPERS ARE LOOSE ON THE VEHICLE SO MUCH THAT YOU CAN SHAKE THEM WITH YOUR BARE HANDS AND AS YOU DRIVE DOWN THE ROAD YOU HEAR A NOISE THAT SOUNDS LIKE A CLICKING SOUND I WOULD LIKE THIS TO B LOOKED AT AS A POSSIBLE RECALL IF OTHERS ARE HAVING THE SAME ISSUE. IM WORRY THAT IT COULD CAUSE AN ACCIDENT AND MY SON OR I COULD GET HURT OR HURT SOMEONE ELSE. YOU CAN HEAR THIS NOISE AS YOU ARE DRIVING ESPECIALLY WHEN U HOT A SMALL BUMP ON MY PRIVATE ROAD I LIVE ON.

THE CAR WILL NOT SHUT OFF, I'M NOT A MECHANIC I DONT KNOW WHAT THE PROBLEM IS I AM WASTING MONEY TRYING TO FIX THIS PROBLEM IT'S BEEN LIKE THIS FOR OVER A YEAR NOW THIS SHOULD BE A RECALL AS WELL AS MY OIL GOES AWAY REALLY FAST I HAVE TO GET AN OIL CHANGE SOONER THAN MOST EVEN USING THE GOOD SYNTHETIC OILS FROM THE DEALERSHIPS.

THE KEY SOMETIMES GETS STUCK IN THE IGNITION AND TAKES A WHILE TO TAKE OUT.

WHILE MY VEHICLE WAS IN MOTION, IT COMPLETELY DIED WHILE IN THE MIDDLE OF AN INTERSECTION AND HAD A VERY DIFFICULT TIME GETTING IT STARTED AGAIN.

WELL FIST THING EVER WENT OUT WAS AC COMPRESSER THE DEAL SHIP WANTED OVER1,200 TO FIX THAT . THEN MY GEAR SHIFT WENT OUT . NOW MY BREAKS ARE MAKING A NOISE BUT THEIR NOT BAD . THEN WHEN YOU GET 20 MILES PR CAR WANT SHIFT UNTIL YOU TAKE YOU FOOT OF GAS THEN IT WILL CHANG GEARS .

TIRE PRESSURE MONITORING SYSTEMS A MALFUNCTIONING TPMS LIGHT WILL NOT NOTIFY AN OWNER OF AN IMPROPERLY INFLATED TIRE. AN IMPROPERLY INFLATED TIRE MAY EXPERIENCE A COMPLETE LOSS OF TIRE PRESSURE, INCREASING THE RISK OF A VEHICLE CRASH.

REAR VIEW CAMERA WENT OUT ON MY 2015 DODGE DART... THIS CAME RIGHT AFTER A RECALL AND MY TRANSMISSION CABLE BUSHING SNAPPED.

THE 2015 DODGE DART WAS PURCHASED IN SEPTEMBER OF 2018 WITH 35,000 MILES ON IT. IT HAS BEEN REGULARLY MAINTAINED HAD HASN'T HAD ANY ISSUES UNTIL NOVEMBER 9, 2019. THE CAR WAS STARTED THAT MORNING AND IDLED APPROXIMATELY 2-3 MINUTES, IT DROVE ABOUT 60 FEET AND STALLED, POWER STEERING AND BRAKES WHERE LOST. THE BATTERY LIGHT WAS ILLUMINATED ON THE DASH BOARD. WHEN TRYING TO RESTART IT STRUGGLED, BUT EVENTUALLY TURNED OVER. IT THEN DROVE FINE . ONCE AT HOME I RESEARCH THE ISSUE AND FOUND MULTIPLE REPORTS LIKE MINE OF ENGINES STALLING DUE TO EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION.

CLUTCH STICKS TO THE GROUND AND LOOSES PRESSURE, WILL NOT SHIFT, FAILS TO ENGAGE AND DISENGAGE GEARS.

THE RIGHT WINDOW NO LONGER WORKS AS WELL AS THE DRIVER SIDE WINDOW. THE TRUNK IS ALSO NOT WANTING TO OPEN. KEY GETS STUCK IN IGNITION EVERY TIME I TRY AND TURN THE CAR OFF. SHIFT CABLES ALSO BROKE, I WAS JUST GETTING HOME WHEN IT HAPPENED I HEARD SOMETHING SNAP BUT DIDN'T THINK MUCH THEN I PARKED AND TRIED TO DRIVE OFF AGAIN AND THE CAR WOULDN'T SHIFT TO DRIVE I COULD MOVE THE STICK.BACK AND FORTH STILL,HAD IT REPLACED A COUPLE OF DAYS LATER THEY SAID THE WHOLE ROD HAD COME OUT AND SHOT INTO SOMETHING ELSE IN THE VEHICLE HAD SHIFT FIXED. ALSO HAD MOTOR MOUTHS FIXED THE MOUTHS BECAME LOSS WITHIN A COUPLE OF DAYS NOW I BELIEVE THE AC COMPRESSOR IS MESSING UP AC KICKS ON BUT NO AIR COMES OUT, BUT IT ONLY HAPPENS ONCE IN A WHILE CAR ALSO STAYS COLD FOR A...

TPMS SYSTEM FAILURE (MULTIPLE TIMES) I HAVE HAD MY TPMS SYSTEM REPAIRED THREE TIMES SINCE I HAVE OWNED MY VEHICLE AND IT NEVER FAILS THAT IT STOPS WORKING AGAIN SHORTLY AFTER GETTING IT FIXED. I HAVE NO IDEA IF THIS IS CONSIDERED A SAFETY ISSUE BUT IT COULD BE FOR SOME PEOPLE THAT DON'T PAY ATTENTION TO THEIR TIRES. THE RIGHT CV AXLE HAS ALSO GONE OUT OF MY CAR AT APPROXIMATELY 70,000 MILES. THIS ITEM WAS COVERED BY WARRANTY BUT OTHER FRIENDS THAT OWN DARTS HAVE MENTIONED HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM. IT CREATED A BAD POPPING NOISE AND MADE GOING OVER BUMPS SLIGHTLY UNSTABLE. TRANSMISSION SHIFT CABLE -- THIS IS ACTIVE RECALL ON MY VEHICLE BUT FIGURED I WOULD INCLUDE THE INFORMATION.

VEHICLE IS UNDER RECALL ALREADY, ITS STUCK IN NEUTRAL, THE GEAR SHIFT MOVES BUT THE TRANSMISSION ISN'T CHANGING GEAR. TOOK IT TO DEALERSHIP AND THEIR GIVING ME PROBLEMS EVEN LOOKING IT UP TO VERIFY THE RECALL AND TO INSPECT IT. THEY AGREED TO GIVE ME A RENTAL CAR AFTER THEY VERIFY THE RECALL BUT TOLD ME IT COULD BE WEEKS TILL THEY HAVE TIME TO EVEN LOOK AT IT. THEY CLAIM THEY HAVE MANY OTHER CARS THAT NEED REPAIRED AND THIS WASN'T A TOP PRIORITY. SO MY CAR IS AT THE NEAREST DEALERSHIP TO WHERE I BROKE DOWN, WAITING FOR THEM TO HAVE THE TIME TO EVEN VERIFY THE RECALL? I WAS UNDER THE UNDERSTANDING RECALLS SHOULD BE PERFORMED AND COMPLETED ON A TIMELY MANNER, BUT IM BEING PUT ON THE BACK BURNER BECAUSE THIS IS A RECALL AND IM NOT PAYING OUT OF POCKET FOR IT SO ITS NOT...

PROBLEMS WITH CLUTCH STICKING TO THE FLOOR WHEN TRYING TO START THE CAR. HAD IT LOOKED AT AND WAS TOLD IT IS A BAD MASTER CYLINDER.

THE TRANSMISSION SHIFT CABLE ON MY CAR STOPPED WORKING WHEN I WAS LEAVING MY GARAGE TO GO IN A ROAD TRIP. THIS PROBLEM ALREADY HAVE A SAFETY RECALL ISSUED, HOWEVER A REMEDY FOR THIS CONDITION IS NOT CURRENTLY AVAILABLE. THE CAR HAS BEEN TOWED TO A LOCAL DEALERSHIP, AND THEY ADVISED THAT A PART HAS BEEN ORDERED TO FIX THE PROBLEM AND I HAVE CONTACTED FCA THAT ADVISED ME THAT THEY WOULD SEND APPROVAL TO THE DEALERSHIP TO PROCEED WITH THE REPAIR. HOWEVER, AFTER MULTIPLE CALLS FROM ME AND FROM THE DEALERSHIP, FCA STILL HAVEN'T GIVEN THE APPROVAL TO THE DEALERSHIP TO PROCEED WITH THE REPAIR.

CAR DROPPED OUT OF GEAR IN THE MIDDLE OF THE HIGHWAY DURING RUSH HOUR TRAFFIC. IT WAS TERRIFYING I WAS ALMOST REAR ENDED BUT WAS LUCKILY ABLE TO GET OFF THE ROAD SAFELY. DROPPED SPEED AND THERE WAS NO ACCELERATION.

I WAS BACKING OUT OF A PARKING SPACE AT A COFFEE SHOP AND MY CAR STALLED AND WOULDN'T SHIFT GEARS. FINALLY WAS ABLE TO GET IT TOWED DUE TO A RECALL ON THE VEHICLE AND WAS TOLD IT WOULD BE A WEEK TO GET IT BACK. RECEIVED A PHONE CALL EXACTLY AT ONE WEEK AND FOUND BUT IT WILL BE 1 MONTH BEFORE THE PART WILL COME IN. THAT DOESN'T EVEN INCLUDE THEM FIXING THE ACTUAL CAR. DIDN'T EVEN OFFER ME A RENTAL. IT'S BEEN GREAT.

TAKATA RECALL: WHILE I WAS LEAVING WORK FOR BREAK, IT STARTED TO POUR DOWN RAINING SO I DECIDED TO PULL INTO A DRIVEWAY AND TURN AROUND BUT MY CAR WOULDN'T GO IN REVERSE, AFTER SO MANY ATTEMPTS OF TRYING I TRIED TO GET IT TO GO IN PARK AND WHEN I DID THE CAR KEPT MOVING TOWARD THE STREET OFF THE SIDE WALK. SO SINCE IT WAS STILL ABLE TO DRIVE I PULLED OUT OFF THE CURB AND WENT BACK TO WORK AND TRIED GETTING IT TO STOP BUT IT KEPT MOVING SO I TURNED THE CAR OFF. AFTER THAT I WAS NO LONGER ABLE TO START MY CAR AND MY KEY REMOTE WAS STUCK IN THE IGNITION. COWORKERS CAME TO SEE WHAT THE ISSUE WAS AND TOLD ME THERE'S A RECALL WHEN THEY GOOGLED IT. THE PEOPLE I'VE BEEN TALKING TO HAVE BEEN NO HELP AND I'VE BEEN WITHOUT...

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CAR WILL CUT OFF GOING DOWN ROAD AND WILL NOT CRANK BACK FOR AT LEAST 3 MIN. I HAVE ALMOST BEEN HIT BY OTHER TRAFFIC ON VARIOUS OCCASIONS. THIS STARTED BACK IN JULY 2016.DEALERSHIP SAYS IT'S A SAFETY TO KEEP CAR FROM BLOWING UP WHEN IT HAS LOW OIL. THE CAR BURNS EXCESSIVE AMOUNTS OF OIL. PROBLEM IS I HAVE OIL CHANGED ON A REGULAR SCHEDULE AND BETWEEN OIL CHANGES TO PREVENT CAR FROM CUTTING OFF IN MIDDLE OF THE ROAD I HAVE TO PUT ANY WHERE FROM 15 TO 25 QUARTS OF OIL IN. IT'S GETTING WORSE. IT'S NOT LEAKING ANYWHERE. ALSO SOMETIMES OUT OF NO WHERE WITH MY FOOT NOT ON ACCELERATOR IT SEEMS TO ACCELERATE ON IT'S ON. THE CAR ALSO HESITATES ON TAKEOFF OFTEN.

MY PROBLEM PERTAINS TO RECALL 19V-293 MY SHIFT CABLE BUSHING BROKE TODAY WHILE I WAS SHIFTING FROM DRIVE TO PARK IN A PARKING GARAGE AND ACCORDING TO THE DODGE CHRYSLER JEEP DEALERSHIP IN TALLAHASSEE, FL CHRYSLER HAS NOT PROVIDED ANY PARTS OR REMEDY FOR THE ISSUE WHICH WAS RECALLED IN APRIL. THEY TOLD ME OVER THE PHONE THAT THEY WOULD CHARGE ME AT LEAST $450 TO REPAIR THE ISSUE AND THAT THEY COULD NOT GIVE ANY ESTIMATE AS TO HOW LONG IT WOULD TAKE BECAUSE OF THE LACK OF REPLACEMENT PARTS AVAILABLE. I WAS TOLD THAT I WOULD HAVE TO PERSONALLY SEEK REIMBURSEMENT FROM CHRYSLER AFTER THE REPAIR WAS COMPLETED. I FEEL THAT THIS IS COMPLETELY UNREASONABLE GIVEN THAT A RECALL WAS ISSUED NEARLY THREE MONTHS AGO AND AM REPORTING WHAT I BELIEVE IS A FAILURE TO ADEQUATELY PROVIDE REMEDY FOR THE ISSUE IN A TIMELY MANNER.

WHEN THE CAR IS PUT INTO REVERSE THERE IS A CLICKING SOUND