2011 KIA SORENTO Electrical System Problems

Intake manifold runner control actuator on 2.4L engine has an inherent defect. The plastic coupling that connects the runner male connection on the side of the intake manifold to the runner control actuator has cracked twice, requiring several replacements of the runner control actuator at a cost of approximately $300 (part and labor) each repair. The coupling can't cost more than 25 cents to manufacture but once it cracks, you can't just buy the plastic coupling; you have to replace the entire runner control actuator. Suggest Hyundai/Kia manufacture the coupling from a metal capable of high temperature application and make just the coupling available for purchase.

The contact owns a 2011 Kia Sorento. The contact stated that while her granddaughter was driving at 35 MPH, the a white smoke began to emit from the vehicle the oil and battery warning lights illuminated on the instrument panel. A fellow motorist then alerted her that her vehicle was on fire and urged to to pull over and exit the vehicle. Upon exiting the vehicle, the vehicle became engulfed in flames. Her granddaughter called the authorities as the fire department was able to extinguish the fire. A fire report was filed; no injuries were reported. The vehicle was towed to a junk yard and deemed a total loss. The manufacturer was notified of the failure and was a case was filed. The fire department determined that the cause of the fire was electrical. Upon investigation, the contact discovered NHTSA Campaign Number: 11E041000 (Equipment) which she linked to her failure....

Passenger low beam kept burning out. I kept replacing. This morning, on my way home from work (I work nights on an ambulance) I could smell burning, and saw that the light was out once again. Got home, and the entire connector/wiring to the bulb was completely melted and sizzling, with a small flame at the base of the plastic connector. This is outrageous. There were recalls for this EXACT issue for other Sorentos, but mine was not included. This could have started a major vehicle fire, and I cannot afford a vehicle electrician. Kia should be replacing this.

I was driving on the freeway, my car just stopped, it wouldn't start I had to have it towed.

THE CONTROL OPTION FUNCTIONS ON THE STEERING WHEEL FAIL. CRUISE CONTROL, RADIO, AND PHONE BUTTONS ALL HAVE FAILED.

MY ALTERNATOR WENT OUT AND KIA REPLACED IT, I WAS STILL UNDER WARRANTY WITHIN 15 MONTHS THE SECOND ALTERNATOR WENT OUT ON THE FREEWAY TRAVELING AT 70 M HR THE CAR WITH NO WARNING THE CAR COMPLETELY DIED ON THE INSIDE LANE NO BRAKES, NO GAS, NO LIGHTS, THIS WAS SUCH A DANGEROUS WE COULD HAVE BEEN KILLED I HAD TO PAY OVER 900.00 TO GET THIS REPLACED, I'M CONSTANTLY HAVING TO REPLACE BATTERIES AND ALTERNATORS I'M KNOW FOR THE 3RD TIME HAVING TO HAVE THIS DONE AGAIN

INSTRUMENT PANEL WARNING LIGHTS ALL COME ON DURING DRIVING. SHUT VEHILE OFF AND RESTART AFTER SEVERAL HOUR , RESTART AND THE WARNING LIGHTS ARE ALL OFF. THEY WILL ALL COME BACK ON AGAIN AFTER A WHILE WHEN DRIVING .THIS HAS BEEN INTERMITENT FOR TWO MONTHS

THE HEADLIGHTS WILL GO OFF AT SPORADIC TIMES WHILE DRIVING. THIS CONDITION IS FRIGHTENING, PARTICULARLY AT NIGHT SINCE WE LIVE IN A RURAL AREA WITH NO STREET LIGHTS ON MANY OF THE ROADS. IT IS EXTREMELY DANGEROUS TO FIND YOURSELF IN TOTAL DARKNESS ON COUNTRY ROADS THAT HAVE DEEP DITCHES ON EITHER SIDE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 KIA SORENTO. THE CONTACT STATED THAT KEYFOB FAILED TO UNLOCK ANY OF THE DOORS ON THE VEHICLE. DUE TO THE FAILURE, THE CONTACT HAD THE VEHICLE TOWED TO NAPLETON RIVER OAKS KIA (1951 RIVER OAKS DR, CALUMET CITY, IL 60409) WHERE A DIAGNOSTIC TEST WAS STILL PENDING. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 100,000. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

THE DRIVER SIDE FRONT DOOR WILL NOT OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE OF THE VEHICLE. IT IS LIKE THE DOOR IS LOCKED, HOWEVER IT IS NOT LOCKED. IF I AM IN AN ACCIDENT OR NEED TO BE TAKEN OUT OF THE VEHICLE, NO ONE WILL BE ABLE TO OPEN THE DOOR TO GET ME OUT. IT REMAINS THIS WAY AT ALL TIMES; INCLUDING WHEN THE CAR IS STATIONARY AND IN PARK. THERE IS A WARRANTY EXTENSION OFFERED BY KIA, BUT THEY ARE TELLING ME THIS DOES NOT APPLY TO ALL THE VIN'S!

CAR HAS BUCKED OR STALLED ON AN INTERMITTENT BASIS FOR THE LAST 60,000 MILES (CAR NOW AT 110K) , TO THE DEGREE THAT I WOULDN'T LET MY KIDS USE THE VEHICLE. AS WITH OTHER ISSUES DEALERSHIP CLAIMED 'UNABLE TO RECREATE' LEAVING ME WITH NO FIX FOR A POTENTIALLY FATAL SAFETY ISSUE. CAR HAD SHUT DOWN ON I-84 IN HARTFORD CT, LUCKILY I WAS ABLE TO DO A RESTART QUICKLY. SORENTO MODEL YEAR 2011 HAS VOLUNTARY RECALL FOR COMPUTER ISSUE THAT SOUNDS SIMILAR BUT WAS TOLD ONLY CERTAIN VINS WERE APPLICABLE, WHICH SHOULD BE EXPLAINED AS TO WHY THAT WOULD BE. SEE ATTACHED PDF. BUCKING ON HIGHWAY CAN BE SEVERE, ENGINE LIGHT BLINKS BUT LEAVES NO CODE. DANGEROUS AND MANY INSTANCES ON INTERNET!

DOORS FAIL TO OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE OF VEHICLE. HEADLIGHT WIRING HARNESS WILL MELT WIRING FOR THE LIGHT BULB AND KILL THE LIGHTBULB. DRIVER SEAT FEELS LOOSE, HOWEVER THE BOLTS ARE AS TIGHT AS THEY WILL GO.

LEFT BLINKER IS FAST AFTER REPLACEMENT AND DIM. RIGHT HEADLIGHT REPLACED AND WORKS TEMPORARILY IF YOU UNPLUG IT ABS PLUG IN.

HEADLIGHTS DONT WORK. KEPT TEPLACING BULBS AND STILL DONT WORK. BRAKE LIGHTS SAME ISSUE, TEPLACE BULBS AND LIGHTS DONT WORK. VEHICLE HAS HAD MULTIPLE PROBLEMS WITH ELECTRICAL. IVE HAD TO REPLACE THE RADIO 3 TIMES, THE ENGINITION HAD TO BE REPLACED. SINCE IVE OWNED THIS VEHICLE I'VE HAD BACK TO THE GARAGE MULTIPLE TIMES FOR REPAIRS AND KEPT TELLING THEM THERE IS AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM BUT THEY DONT WANT TO ADMIT IT.

WHILE DRIVING THE CAR IT WILL LOSE POWER AND COMPLETELY SHUT OFF IT HAS HAPPENED ON THE HIGHWAY, ON REGULAR STREETS, AND WHEN GOING UP HILLS.. I AM NOT ABLE TO DO ANYTHING EXCEPT HOPE THAT NO ONE HITS ME AND I CAN GET IT PULLED OFF TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD, AND HOPE IT WILL START AGAIN. NOW THE CAR STARTED MAKING A WHINING NOISE AND HAS COMPLETELY DIED AND HAD TO BE TOWED BECAUSE IT WILL NOT START AGAIN. EVERYTHING IS GOOD BATTERY, ALTERNATOR, STARTER, RELAYS/FUSES.

HAVE TO REPLACE BRAKES AND ROTORS 2-3 YEAR;. BRAKE CALIPER TWICE; REPLACE HEADLIGHTS AND TAILLIGHTS SEVERAL TIMES PER YEAR; BACK DOOR WON'T OPEN FROM INSIDE OR OUT.

MY VEHICLE SHUT OFF DOING 70 MPH ON INTERSTATE AND THE DASH LIGHTS ALL FLICKERED

I'VE REPLACED THE DRIVER SIDE LOW BEAM HEADLIGHT 4 TIMES IN 2 MONTHS AND THE DRIVER SIDE FRONT TURN SIGNAL TWICE DURING THE SAME SPAN. THERE SEEMS TO BE A SHORT AS THE HEADLIGHT WILL WORK UNTIL I USE THE TURN SIGNAL WHILE THE HEADLIGHTS ARE ON. THE HEADLIGHT BURNS OUT AND THEN THE TURN SIGNAL ONLY FLASHES WHEN THE SWITCH FOR THE HEADLIGHTS IS OFF.

MY CAR TURNED OFF ON ME TWICE WHILE DRIVING IT ON THE STREETS, ALL LIGHTS WENT BLACK.THERE WAS CARS BEHIND ME, I WAS SCARED ON GETTING HIT. DEALERSHIP SAID IT WAS A SMART JUNKING BOX CAUSING THE PROBLEM SINCE SOME CABLES HAS CORROSION. THEY HAVE BEEN RECALL ON THAT AND THEY DON'T WANT TO TAKE CARE OF IT. THEY SEND ME A PICTURE OF THE PROBLEM, AND I SEE NO CORROSION. NOW I'M SCARED DRIVING MY CAR AND NOT KNOWING WHAT THE PROBLEM IS. ESPECIALLY WHEN HAVING MY KIDS WITH ME AND DRIVING AT NIGHT, IF THAT CAR TURNS OFF, IT CAN CAUSE A HORRIBLE CRASH. *TR

I WAS DRIVING DOWN A ROAD AT NIGHT WITH MY FAMILY AND I NOTICE THAT THE LIGHTS WENT OUT COMPLETELY IN A DARK ROAD WHICH SCARED ME BECAUSE EVERYTHING WENT COMPLETELY BLACK I QUICKLY TRIED TO PULL OVER ALMOST GOING INTO A DITCH IN FEAR THAT I MIGHT HIT SOMETHING OR SOMEONE. I TRIED FLICKING ON THE HEADLIGHTS AND I KNOW THAT THEY WOULD COME ON AND THEN GO OFF. I ALSO NOTICE THAT MY CALL BATTERY WAS DRAINED IM ASSUMING IN MAY BE A SHORT IN THE WIRING. *TR

TWO DAYS LATER AFTER BUYING THE CAR WE WERE DRIVING IT DOWN THE HIGHWAY WHEN I NOTICED THAT THE RPMS ON THE TRUCK WERE GOING TO HIGH AT 70 MPH THE RPM WOULD BE BETWEEN 6 AND 7 SO I DECIDE WHILE DRIVING TO SHIFT IT TO STANDARD SHIFT AND IN THIS PARTICULAR TRUCK THE ODOMETER SHOWS WHAT GEAR I AM IN AND I COULD ALSO SHIFT IT MANUALLY BUT THE TRUCK IS STUCK IN 4TH GEAR AND AT A COMPLETE STOP THE START DOESNT SEEM TO WANT TO GO AT ALL AND NOW IT WANT GO FORWARDS OR REVERSE. IF I TURN LEFT OR RIGHT SIGNALS THE HEAD LIGHTS GO OFF. WHEN I STOPPED AT THE GAS STATION THE PASSBY PERSON SAW THAT IT WAS A LEAK UNDER THE VEHICLE.

ALTERNATOR HAS HAD TO BE REPLACED 4 TIMES IN LESS THAN 2 YEARS... MECHANIC AT PEP BOYS SAID THAT HE HAS SEEN SEVERAL OF THIS YEAR MAKE AND MODEL COME IN FOR THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM...

HEADLIGHT LOW BEAM LIGHT NOT WORKING. REPLACED BULB AND WITHIN A FEW WEEKS, IT WOULD WORK INTERMITTENTLY. I COULD WIGGLE THE CONNECTION AND LIGHT WOULD COME BACK ON. THEN THAT NO LONGER WORKED. I TOOK THE BULB OUT OF THE CONNECTION TO REPLACE AND NOTICED THE CONNECTION WAS MELTED WHERE THE BULB CONNECTS TO THE WIRE HARNESS. I REMOVED BULB UNTIL CONNECTION CAN BE REPLACED.

VEHICLE HAS CONSISTENTLY NEEDED HEADLIGHTS REPLACED EVERY 3 MONTHS. VEHICLE LIGHTS WILL COME ON AND OR OFF WHILE DRIVING IN THE DARK. THIS IS A DEADLY SAFETY HAZARD AND SHOULD BE REMEDIED.

DRIVER SIDE REAR PASSENGER DOOR DOES NOT OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE. WHEN CHILD LOCK IS ENGAGED, THE DOOR CANNOT BE OPENED. DEALER INDICATED POSSIBLE ACTUATOR FAILURE. VEHICLE HAS 106,000 MILES AND IS OUT OF WARRANTY.

CLOCK SPRING MALFUNCTION CAUSING AIRBAG LIGHT TO ILLUMINATE ON DASH. STEERING WHEEL CONTROLS DO NOT WORK. THIS IS A CONSTANT AND DAILY ISSUE. IT HAPPENS WHILE DRIVING AS WELL AS PARKED. LOW BEAM SOCKET MELTED. SINCE BEEN REPLACED BY ME. BOTH ISSUES ARE UNDER A RECALL BUT MY VIN IS NOT LISTED. MY VEHICLES YEAR MAKE AND MODEL ARE LISTED IN A CURRENT RECALL BUT MY VIN DOES NOT FALL WITHIN IT.

VEHICLES INTERIOR LIGHTS, INTERIOR DASH LIGHTS, HEADLIGHTS AND OTHER PANEL LIGHTS CLICK AND FLICKER OFF AND ON DURING VARIOUS PERIODS OF TIME. THE HEADLIGHTS STAY OFF FOR A FEW SECONDS AND REPETITIVELY AT RANDOM TIMES. THIS HAS OCCURRED BOTH EARLY IN THE MORNING, IN THE EVENINGS, IT ALSO HAPPENS JUST IN THE MIDDLE OF THE DAY TO THE DASH LIGHTS AND WITH THE CLICKING. THIS HAS OCCURRED IN WINTER AS WELL AS SUMMER. ORIGINALLY IT ONLY OCCURRED WHEN IT WAS RAINING, NOW IT OCCURS DAILY. THIS HAS OCCURRED WHEN THE VEHICLE HAS BEEN IN PARK AND WHILE DRIVING ON HIGHWAYS, ON BACK ROADS, ALSO AT STOP LIGHTS OR A STOP SIGN. THE CLICKING HAS ALSO OCCURRED WHEN THE VEHICLE HAS BEEN OFF, IT WILL START MAKING CLICKING NOISES COMING FROM THE DASH AREA, THE SAME NOISE AS IT MAKES WHEN THE HEADLIGHTS AND INTERIOR AND DASH LIGHTS FLICKER WHEN IT...

JUST WHEN THE WARRANTY RAN OUT THE DRIVER SIDE REAR DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR QUIT WORKING. THE DOOR CANNOT BE OPENED FROM THE OUTSIDE. IF CHILD LOCK IS PUT ON, THEN THE DOOR CANNOT BE OPENED FROM EITHER THE INSIDE OR THE OUTSIDE BLOCKING EGRESS FOR THAT REAR PASSENGER.

VEHICLE WAS PARKED IN THE GARAGE AND STATIONARY. WHEN TRYING TO START THE VEHICLE USING THE KEY-LESS IGNITION, DASH AND INTERIOR LIGHTS STARTED TO FLICKER IN THE VEHICLE AND RELAYS START TO CLICK. LOCKS WOULD NOT OPERATE NOR COULD I SHIFT INTO NEUTRAL, STARTED TO SMELT BURNING, PUSHED IGNITION BUTTON TO SHUT DOWN. WOULD NOT SHUT OFF, ELECTRICAL KEPT CYCLING LIKE IT WAS TRYING TO START ON ITS OWN, HAD TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY TO SHUT DOWN THE CAR. STARTER SOLENOID NEVER ENGAGED AT ANY TIME NOR DID THE ENGINE TRY TO TURN OVER.

CAR RAN FINE. DROVE TO STORE. GOT OUT OF STORE. CAR WOULDN'T START. HAD SO.EONE CHECK BATTERY .BATTERY WAS GOOD.12.5 . HAD THEM CHECK THAT WIRES WHERE TIGHT ON BATTERY AND THEY WHERE. STILL NO POWER TO CAR. LEFT CAR AT STORE . CAME BACK NEXT DAY AND CAR STARTED UP LIKE NOTHING WRONG. THIS HAS HAPPEN TWICE SINCE

THE DRIVER DOOR DOESN'T OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE ANYMORE I HAVE TO GO THROUGH THE BACK AND I HAVE SMALL CHILDREN

EVERYTIME I HIT A LITTLE BUMP IN THE ROAD MY ECO SAVER GOES OFF CAUSING ME TO BURN MORE GAS UNTIL I HIT ANOTHER BUMP TO KNOCK THE SAVER BACK ON

I WENT TO THE STORE AND TRIED TO OPEN THE BACK PASSENGER DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR FROM THE OUTSIDE AND IT WOULD NOT OPEN. I THOUGHT THAT THE CHILD SAFETY LOCKS WERE ON SO I WENT INSIDE FROM THE OPPOSITE SIDE AND OPENED THE DOOR. STILL HAVEN'T FIGURED OUT WHY I CAN'T OPEN MY DOOR THEN TODAY THE OTHER SIDE WILL NOT OPEN NOW. BOTH BACK DOORS WILL NOT OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE, THIS IS A HUGE SAFETY ISSUE. WHAT IF THERE WAS AN ACCIDENT GOD FORBID OR A FIRE AND I HAD MY CHILDREN OR GRANDCHILD IN MY VEHICLE AND COULD NOT GET THEM OUT! KIA NEEDS TO RECALL THIS IMMEDIATELY. LOOKING BACK I CAN SEE A NUMBER OF COMPLAINTS AND THIS IS JUST UNACCEPTABLE. PLEASE HELP WITH THIS ISSUE. THANK YOU

AIR BAG LIGHT HAS COME ON AND WILL NOT GO OFF. ALL OF THE CONTROLS ON THE STEERING WHEEL HAVE STOPPED WORKING, AND THE FUEL DOOR BUTTON HAS ALSO STOPPED WORKING.

DOORS WILL NOT OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE

I WAS DRIVING ON A BUSY HWY MY CAR STALLED OUT ALMOST WAS HIT BY A DUMP TRUCK . THE DUMP TRUCK RAN OFF THE ROAD TO AVOID ME THANK GOD NO ONE WAS HURT AFTER DOING SOME RESEARCH FOUND OUT THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM THINK IT'S TIME FOR A RECALL

MY DRIVER SIDE DOOR WILL NOT OPEN FROM THE OUTSIDE. I HAVE TWO SMALL CHILDREN AND I'M AFRAID TO PUT CHILD LOCK ON BECAUSE THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM ACCORDING TO MY RESEARCH. I HAVEN'T GOTTEN A RECALL FOR THIS PROBLEM AND IT MAKES FOR A VERY DANGEROUS MAYBE DEATHLY SITUATION. HORN DOESN'T WORK.

I BROUGHT MY VEHICLE INTO KIA FOR SEVERAL RECALLS. ONE WAS THE DOOR LOCKS BEING FAULTY. I SAID I HAD NO PROBLEMS BUT THEY DECIDED TO REPLACE THEM ANYWAY. NOW MY REAR DOOR LOCK IS BROKEN. THE OTHER ISSUE IS WHEN ACCELERATING THE ENGINE REVS. IT ONLY HAPPENED A COUPLE OF TIMES AT FIRST, BUT NOW IT HAPPENS EVERY TIME I DRIVE. IT SEEMS LIKE THE PEDAL IS GETTING STUCK. MY LAST ISSUE IS THE AIR BAG. I WAS REAR ENDED ON THE HIGHWAY AND PUSHED INTO THE CAR IN FRONT OF ME. THE WHOLE FRONT END WAS BANGED UP AND THE AIRBAG NEVER OPENED.

KIA WAS PURCHASED LESS THAN A YEAR AGO. THIS IS THE THIRD TIME IT WAS TAKEN TO A DEALERSHIP TO GET CHECKED. CAR ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON AND LOSES POWER AND KEEPS GOING INTO LIMP MODE. IT IS A SAFETY HAZARD AND MUST BE DEALT WITH. TODAY WHILE IN THE PASSING LANE CAR LOST ALL POWER AND WOULD NOT MOVE. I WAS DRIVING ABOUT 45MPH AND IT WOULDN'T GO . A TRACTOR TRAILER WAS SPEEDING BEHIND ME AND NEARLY REAR ENDED ME AS I WAS IN THE PASSING LANE AND COULDN'T MAKE IT GO AGAIN TO PULL OVER. WHEN I EVENTUALLY GOT IT TO PULL OVER IT WAS IDLING HIGH AND DID NOT SOUND RIGHT. MECHANIC CAME AND PLACED VEHICLE ON COMPUTER AND AGAIN THREE CODES CAME UP INCLUDING ENGINE POWER FAILURE AND LIMP MODE. I COULD HAVE BEEN SERIOUSLY INJURED DUE TO KIAS LACK TO REPAIR THIS DEFECT AND...

DROVE TRUCK TO BANK AND NOW THEY ARE TELLING ME THAT MY BCM BODY CONTROL MODULE IS BAD. I HAD A TOW TRUCK DRIVER TELL ME THAT I WAS THE 10TH VEHICLE HE HAS PICKED UP WITH THE SAME PROBLEM. MY VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY IN A PARKING LOT.

MY ROOM LP FUSE KEEPS BLOWING. IT HAD A RECALL FOR THE SAME PROBLEM. I WENT OUT AND STARTED MY CAR AND SEEN THAT THE CLOCK AND INTERIOR LIGHTS WERE NOT WORKING. I PULLED FUSE PUT A NEW ONE IN AND WHEN I STARTED IT AGAIN IT BLEW AGAIN. THEN THE AIRBAG LIGHT CAME ON AND IT IS STAYING ON. I HAVE REPLACED THE ROOM LP FUSE ABOUT 12 TIMES. IT WAS A RECALL GOT FIXED AND HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM AGAIN.

THE ALTERNATOR IN THIS VEHICLE HAD DIED NOW 3 TIMES IN THE PAST 4 YEARS, CAUSING THE CAR TO SHUT OFF WHILE DRIVING. THE ALTERNATOR GOES FROM WORKING TO COMPLETELY DEAD. THE FIRST TIME THIS HAPPENED THE CAR HAD AROUND 65,000 MILES. THE SECOND TIME IT HAD AROUND 128,000 AND THIS LAST TIME AROUND 131,000 THERE WAS A RECALL LISTED FOR THE ORIGINAL ALTERNATOR BUT KIA CLAIMED IT DID NOT APPLY TO OUR CAR EVEN THOUGH THE MANUFACTURED DATE FIT WITHIN THE LISTED MONTHS.

AIRBAG DID NOT DEPLOY DURING ACCIDENT. BEFORE ACCIDENT AIRBAG LIGHT WAS ON AND STEERING WHEEL FUNCTIONS WERE WORKING (CRUISE, HORN, VOLUME ECT.) DRIVER SIDE WINDOW WOULD NOT ROLL UP.

THE DRIVER AIR BAG LIGHT CAME ON AND WILL NOT GO OFF WHEN I TURNED ON THE VEHICLE ONE MORNING.. AT THE SAME TIME, ALL OF MY ELECTRONICS ON THE STEERING WHEEL QUIT WORKING ( CRUISE CONTROL, BLUE TOOTH, RADIO). I WAS TOLD THIS IS A CLOCK SPRING ISSUE AND HAS HAPPENED TO MANY 2011 KIA SORENTO OWNERS. IS THIS NOT A RECALL?

THE VEHICLE'S AIRBAG LIGHT TURNED ON WHEN STATIONARY (AS I STARTED THE CAR) AND REMAINED ON AT ABOUT 100,000 MILES. MECHANIC INSPECTION YIELDED ISSUE WITH STEERING WHEEL CLOCK SPRING. MECHANIC ORDERED PART FROM KIA DEALERSHIP BUT THERE IS A MANUFACTURING ISSUE AND THE VEHICLE HAS TO BE RETROFITTED TO FIT THE PART. AS OF 8/5/2019, THERE ARE NO UNREPAIRED RECALLS ON THIS CAR OR FOR THIS SPECIFIC SAFETY ISSUE, BUT YEARS OF DOCUMENTATION OF COMPLAINTS FOR IT, AND IT IS A MANUFACTURING DEFECT. WHY HASN'T THIS BEEN ADDED AS A FORMAL RECALL? HAVE NOT CHECKED CRUISE CONTROL OR HORN, BUT VOLUME CONTROLS ON STEERING WHEEL STILL WORKING. PASSENGER AIRBAG LIGHT SOMETIMES OFF WHEN PASSENGER IS ON SEAT, SOMETIMES ON WHEN NO ONE IS IN SEAT.

TAKATA BRAKE LIGHTS NOT WORKING BOUGHT 3 SINCE JAN2019. GOT BRAKES DONE IN 2018 BUT PEDAL STILL MOVES AT RED LIGHT CAR MOVES FORWARD. I MASH BREAKS HARDER. ENGINE SHAKES OR JUMPS. IGNITION SWITCH WON'T TURN ON CAR IT DON'T CRANK UP KEY WAS REMADE A YR AGO. IGNITION STARTED BACK WORKING WELL BUT 6MONTHS AGO SAME PROBLEM AGAIN. TODAY I WAS STUCK 3.5HRS.HORRIBLE PLEASE HELP MY SORENTO IS LOVED BY ME. NO ONE CONTACTED ME ON THESE ISSUES IM HAVING.

DOOR'S FAIL TO OPEN- MODULAR THAT CONTROLS OPENING AND CLOSING DOORS HAS FAILED ENTRY DOORS CANNOT OPEN OR CLOSED DOORS I HAVE ONE DOOR TO GET INTO THE CAR AND OUT THIS IS A BIG SAFETY HAZARD

THE VOLUME CONTROL ON STEERING WHEEL, AND OTHER ELECTRONICS WILL RANDOMLY MALFUNCTION. HAD WHERE I WOULD HAVE CRUSIE CONTROL ON AND TURN THE TURN SIGNAL ON AND IT WOULD SHUT OFF THE CRUISE CONTROL (ONLY THE LEFT TURN SIGNAL WOULD CAUSE THIS). THE VOLUME ON STEERING WHEEL, YOU WOULD GO TO TURN IT UP AND IT WOULD TURN IT DOWN INSTEAD, LIGHTS ON DASH SUCH AS THE STEEP DECLINE LIGHT, BRAKE LIGHT WILL RANDOMLY TURN ON AND IT IS NOT EVEN BEING USED.

MY STRUTS MAKE MY TIRES POP AT LEAST EVERY TWO WEEKS GOT THEM REPLACED OVER 10 TIMES AND ALSO MY FUEL INJECTORS HAVE BEEN REPLACED AND STILL GIVE OFF A STINKY SMELL IT MAY RESULT IN GETTING ANOTHER CATALIC CONVERTER

I AM NOT ABLE TO DETERMINE IF IT WILL BE COVERED OR NOT. MOST LIKELY IT WILL NOT BE COVERED BECAUSE THE CS1603 CAN ONLY BE COMPLETED ONCE, AND ONLY UNDER THE 5 YEARS/ 60,000 MILE WARRANTY. THE VEHICLE IS CONSIDERED OUT OF WARRANTY BY THE YEAR AS IT GOES BY THE ORIGINAL WARRANTY START DATE OF 06/04/2011. HOWEVER, WE CAN LOOK INTO POSSIBLE GOODWILL ASSISTANCE WITH THE REPAIR THAT IS NEEDED. OF COURSE I AM NOT ABLE TO GUARANTEE ANYTHING UPFRONT. KIA MOTORS AMERICA, INC. 111 PETERS CANYON RD IRVINE CA 9260 ON FRIDAY, APRIL 5, 2019, 8:43:00 AM CDT GOOD MORNING, I WOULD RECOMMEND TAKING THE VEHICLE INTO YOUR LOCAL KIA DEALERSHIP TO HAVE THEM DIAGNOSE THE CONCERN. TYPICALLY, THE REPAIR CAN ONLY BE REPAIRED ONCE, BUT THEY WILL BE ABLE TO DIAGNOSE IT TO SEE WHAT IS CAUSING THAT TO OCCUR. I AM NOT TECHNICALLY TRAINED IN...