2016 KIA OPTIMA Vehicle Speed Control Problems

1) Rear passenger window failed a couple months ago. I believe it was regulator, not 100% sure. Cost me a couple hundred to fix. Now, few months later, the driver side rear window has failed. I rarely use the windows so I believe the failing parts are Kia known manufacturing defect. The dealer acknowledged that it’s a known problem with the vehicles like mine and even suggested the other one is going to fail soon. Now it has. If the dealership is aware then it’s likely a Kia flaw. If it’s a know manufacturing flaw, shouldn’t Kia should be fixing them instead of making customers spend upwards of $1k+ to fix both windows? 2) cruise control cuts off or doesn’t set and menus won’t go back to speedometer. While trying to set cruise control, it gets into the menu and won’t go back to the speedometer. Sometimes I have to...

On [XXX] I was proceeding to come up to the stop sign when out of no where the car started rapidly accelerating and when I proceeded to step on the brakes it wouldn't stop it only sped up more. And caused a server accident that left me with serious injuries. And I cause of the defect they found me at fault said I failed to yield at a stop sign. The car never was fixed from the 2 times the motor has to be replaced by Galena Kia in fort Myers fl. They even caused the ac to go power retarded and wouldn't work half the time. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6)

While driving the car will not accelerate past 49mph in turbo mode and 61mph in regular mode and rpm will not go above 1800. And it jerks and studders. Blinking check engine light and consumes a ridiculous amount of oil even though regular maintenance performed. I have read several engine issues with this model and cannot find recall info

Car was at about 70,000 upon purchase. Once driving it regularly, I immediately noticed a faint knocking noise upon acceleration. Also, when coasting the speed adjusted on its own intermittently, both up & down, not by much but enough that I felt it on the gas pedal. Other times it fails to accelerate when pushing on the gas pedal. I have to release the pedal & try again, sometimes more than once before it finally accelerates. Despite doing regular oil changes, my engine burns through oil long before next oil change is due, so I have to add 1 - 2 quarts of oil in-between changes. I was barely at 80,000 miles when engine started seizing & the following day the check engine light came on. It had to be towed to be serviced. They said the fuel injector or pump (not sure which) was allowing fuel to flood my...

While we were driving home (3 people in my car), with no notice, my car lost complete acceleration and broke down while we were on the highway. We hardly had notice to understand what was happening, let alone the other cars/people behind us on the highway where we almost got hit before being able to pull over to the side of the highway. We then had to wait for a tow-truck, again, on the shoulder of a very busy highway. Later, I came to find out that this was "sudden and unexpected engine failure" that occurs in multiple models of Kia and Hyundai that was included in the Hyundai and Kia Engine Litigation, Case No. 8:17-cv-00838, and Hyundai and Kia Engine Litigation II, No. 8:18-cv-02223-JLS-JDE, New Theta II Class Action Lawsuit. Unfortunately, this was the first time I had heard of this, as I'd never received any recalls or notices...

When accelerating the car will randomly loose all power from the engine. The electrical systems will stay on but the car RPMs will drop to zero. The accelerator will not provide acceleration when being pressed. The car has to be turned off and then turned back on for power to be restored. The check engine light, the oil light and another warning light will come on.

Driving 80 miles an hour several hours from home on a major interstate and my car shut off. Pulled over on side of interstate and check engine light came on and car won’t accelerate and is making a knocking noise

It started shaking really bad out of no where , then wasn’t going faster than 80 then down to 65 but wouldn’t go more than 80 with my foot all the way on the gas. As soon as I made it to work tonight the car cut off. I got a jump the car was still shaking & wouldn’t stay on if I let my foot off of the gas. I started it again without the cables but it cut right back off. I saw on cars.com it’s a recall for the similar thing, number Sc172. I have been having fuel leaks for a while and had my knock sensor replaced from a previous recall. Now I have no way home.

On 2/24 I was driving on Ben Hill Griffin Parkway, I was in the middle lane going thru an intersection, when suddenly while attempting to accelerate to go thru the light, all of my dash lights came on and the gas petal stopped working completely. I had cars in front, behind and on sides of me and I was unable to move out of the way. I attempted to restart the car to no avail. This could have been an incredibly deadly and dangerous situation and was extremely scary. With help I was able to move my car out of the way, call a tow truck and have it taken to the nearest Kia Dealership (Galeana Kia, 14483 Tamiami Trail, Ft. Myers) who advised they would evaluate the car and get back to me the next day. Tuesday I got word that my engine had seized and there was less...

Driving along the interstate approximately 70 mph, the vehicle jerked with knock sound then lost acceleration speed. At the same time, the check engine light started blinking. I pulled over to the side of the interstate put the car in park. I put it back in drive and slowly attempted to accelerate again. I was able to make it home because I was only about a mile and a half away, but I the acceleration was very slow and there wasn't much power behind it. At a speed of about 45-50, the vehicle barely seemed to have much power.

PULLED INTO NEIGHBORHOOD, PUT FOOT ON PEDAL TO ACCELERATE, AND CAR TOOK OFF. WOULD NOT STOP. WENT B/W 80-100 MPH ON IT'S OWN, BEFORE MY MOTHER DROVE OFF AN EMBANKMENT, AND FLIPPED HER CAR END OVER END. NEARLY KILLING HER, AS WELL AS HER DOG. CURRENTLY HOSPITALIZED.*DT*DT*DT*DT*DT

WAS EXITING THE FREEWAY, CAME TO A STOPLIGHT, AND AS CONTINUING WITH DRIVING THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT STARTS BLINKING AND WAS NOT ABLE TO ACCELERATE, AS IF IT WAS SLIPPING. CAR WOULD NOT GO OVER AROUND 30 MPH UNTIL FEELING THE CAR NOT ABLE TO ACCELERATE AGAIN. I USED A CODE READER AND GOT CODE P1326, WHICH I HAD LOOKED UP AND SAYS IT HAS SOMETHING TO DO WITH A KNOCK SENSOR DETECTION SYSTEM. HAD BRING MY CAR IN TO GET IT CHECKED OUT AND WAS TOLD MY CAR HAD LOW OIL, ABOUT 2 QUARTZ. I DO REGULAR OIL CHANGES THOUGH AND HAD DONE AN OIL CHANGE A FEW WEEKS PRIOR. THE SHOP I WENT TO TOLD ME THERE MAY BE A SERVICE CAMPAIGN FOR THE CAR. WAS TOLD SPECIFIC YEARS HAVE HAD ENGINE PROBLEMS WITH OIL, LOSING OIL ALTHOUGH NO LEAKS OR SIGNS.

MID SEPTEMBER, 2020, I BEGAN TO NOTICE THAT MY HEADLIGHTS WOULD TURN OFF AS I WAS DRIVING. THEY WOULD CUT OFF FOR NO MORE THAN 15 SECONDS AND TURN BACK ON. I DIDN'T THINK ANYTHING OF IT, UNTIL I STARTED HAVING ISSUES WITH OTHER COMPONENTS OF MY 2016 KIA OPTIMA. ON 11/30/2020 I WAS DRIVING AT 30MPH THROUGH A RESIDENTIAL AREA. AS I WAS APPROACHING A STOP SIGN, MY ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. WHEN I TRIED TO ACCELERATE, THE CAR BEGAN TO JUMP AND HESITATE. NO MATTER HOW FAR DOWN I PUSHED THE GAS, THE CARE WAS JUMPING/SHAKING AND WOLD NOT ACCELERATE OVER 20MPH. I PULLED INTO AN AUTOZONE WHERE THEY RAN A DIAGNOSTIC TEST ON THE VEHICLE. ERROR CODE P1326 (KNOCK SENSOR) CAME UP. THE NEXT MORNING, I CALLED COASTAL KIA OF WILMINGTON IN NORTH CAROLINA AND EXPLAINED TO THEM WHAT HAD HAPPENED. THEY SENT AN EMPLOYEE TO PICK...

VEHICLE WAS IN MOTION, DRIVING STRAIGHT IN LEFT LANE ON A CITY STREET IN EASTBOUND DIRECTION. ON ITS OWN, THE CAR STARTED TO ACCELERATE WHILE TURNING TOWARDS THE LEFT SIMULTANEOUSLY. DRIVER WAS DRIVING ABOUT 40 MPH AND BASED ON AIR BAG MODULE, CAR SPED UP TO 55 MPH. THE STEERING WHEEL AND THE BRAKE SEEMED TO BE LOCKED OR STUCK BECAUSE NEITHER COMPONENT WORKED WHILE THIS MALFUNCTION OCCURRED. DRIVER TRIED TO PRESS THE BRAKE TO SLOW THE CAR DOWN, BUT BRAKE WOULD NOT PRESS DOWN. ALSO TRIED TO TURN STEERING WHEEL TO AVOID ONCOMING WESTBOUND TRAFFIC, BUT STEERING WHEEL DID NOT WORK EITHER. DRIVER HAD ABSOLUTELY NO CONTROL OF VEHICLE. THE CAR ACCELERATED AND VEERED LEFT FOR ABOUT A QUARTER OF A MILE UNTIL IT FINALLY HIT A CURB, THEN FRONT PASSENGER SIDE WHEEL, ROTOR, AND SUSPENSION BROKE. IT SEEMED AS IF CAR WAS STILL TRYING TO ACCELERATE AFTER IT...

THE DRIVER DOOR LOCK DOES NOT WORK. IT IS THE ONLY DOOR THAT WILL NOT LOCK SOMETIMES. OTHER TIMES IT IS THE ONLY DOOR THAT WILL NOT UNLOCK. THE CRUISE CONTROL DOES NOT ALWAYS WANT TO WORK. IT WILL SAY CRUISE BUT WILL NOT LET ME SET IT.

WHILE DRIVING THE CAR THE FUEL CONSUMPTION IN THE MOTOR WOULD BOG THE ENGINE DOWN TO WHERE IT WOULD BARELY GO OVER 40 MPH ON THE HIGHWAY. AT THIS TIME THE ENGINE TROUBLE INDICATOR LIGHT WOULD COME ON AND NOT GO OFF. I IMMEDIATELY TOOK IT TO THE LOCAL KIA DEALERSHIP IN MT. HOPE, WV.. THE MECHANIC CHANGED OUT THE SENSOR THAT SHOWED UP ON HIS METER AND THE ENGINE SEEMED TO DO GOOD WHILE IN THE SHOP BUT WHEN THEY BACKED IT OUT OF THE SHOP BAY, ANOTHER SENSOR LIGHR CAME ON. WE HAD ALREADY PAID THE DEALERSHIP $206, THEY WOULD NOT RETURN OUR MONEY

LETTER FROM CONGRESSMAN EARL L BUDDY CARTER ON BEHALF OF CONSTITUENT, REGARDING ISSUES WITH A KIA PURCHASED IN SAVANNAH, GEORGIA. *LD THE CONSUMER STATED THE VEHICLE HAS EXPERIENCED VARIOUS ISSUES INCLUDING THE BATTERY BEING REPLACED 5 TIMES IN 8 MONTHS, MULTIPLE ENGINE ISSUES, ELECTRICAL ISSUES AND A LACK OF ACCELERATION. THE CONSUMER ALSO STATED, WHILE DRIVING WITH THE CRUISE CONTROL ACTIVATED, THE VEHICLE WOULD SPEED UP TO CATCH UP TO THE DESIGNATED SPEED AND COME IN TO CLOSE CONTACT WITH THE VEHICLE AHEAD. THE FAILURE IS INTERMITTENT. *JS

P1326 ENGINE CODE CAME ON WHILE DRIVING 60MPH ON THE INTERSTATE. LUCKILY WAS IN FAR LEFT LANE WHEN ENGINE SHUT OFF AND WAS SAFELY ABLE TO GET OFF FREEWAY TO A NEARBY GAS STATION.

EVER SINCE I HAD MY CAR SERVICED ABOUT 3 WEEKS AGO MY CAR HAS BEEN SLUGGISH AND ACCELERATION HAS WEAKENED, ALSO I'M GETTING POORER GAS MILEAGE. THE RECALL THAT WAS FIXED HAS GREATLY REDUCED THE PERFORMANCE OF MY VEHICLE.

ENGINE RUMBLES LIKE IT IS ABOUT TO DIE INTERMITTENTLY WHEN I LET OFF THE BRAKE AND BEFORE I PRESS THE GAS AFTER BEING STOPPED IN TRAFFIC ON CITY STREETS. I OFTEN HAVE TO PRESS THE GAS PEDAL HALF WAY DOWN TO GET IT TO GAIN SPEED ON CITY STREETS, IT FEELS SLUGGISH, AND SHIFTING DOES NOT FEEL VERY SMOOTH.

INTERMITTENTLY CAR WILL SHUDDER (JERK FORWARD AND SLOW, JERK FORWARD AND SLOW) MANY TIMES WHEN ACCELERATING, EITHER FROM A STOP OR WHILE ACCELERATING FROM LOW SPEEDS (LESS THAN 45MPH) IT SEEMS POSSIBLE GEAR CHANGING IS NOT SMOOTH. AND CAN BE DANGEROUS WHEN ATTEMPTING TO MERGE INTO TRAFFIC AS CAR DOES NOT ACCELERATE AS IT SHOULD. HAVE TAKEN THE CAR TO KIA WHO REPORT THAT NOTHING WAS WRONG WITH CAR WHEN THEY TEST DROVE IT. PROBLEM SEEMS WORSE WHEN IT IS HOT OR COLD OUTSIDE.

THE CAR STUMBLES TO START AND WHEN I ACCELERATE IT FLUTTERS UNTIL PICKING UP SPEED. THIS HAPPENED ON HIGHWAY 43.

WHEN THE CAR ENCOUNTERS A HILL AND NEEDS TO DOWNSHIFT, EITHER TO CLIMB OR TO HOLD BACK THE SPEED WHEN IT DESCENDS, THE CRUISE CONTROL REMEMBERS THE DOWNSHIFT AND WILL NOT RETURN TO HIGH GEAR UNTIL A) IT IS MANUALLY OVERRIDDEN, BUT WILL STILL DOWNSHIFT UP TO 2 GEARS, WHEN THE LEVER IS PLACED BACK TO AUTOMATIC OR, B) WHEN THE CRUISE CONTROL IS TURNED OFF. THE CRUISE CONTROL ALSO BELATEDLY REACTS TO LOSS OF SPEED CONTROL AND OVERCORRECTS WITH TOO MUCH POWER, RESULTING IN A CRUDE RIDE, AS WELL. THE WORKLOAD IS INCREASED DEALING WITH GETTING THE CAR TO ATTAIN TOP GEAR ON FLAT ROADS, AND IS CREATING UNSAFE CONDITIONS, IN MY OPINION. I HAVE ATTEMPTED TO GET THIS ATTENDED TO AT THE DEALERSHIP, AND THEY CONTINUE TO NOT FIX THE ISSUE, AS WELL AS INFORM ME I SHOULDN'T BE USING CRUISE CONTROL ON HILLS. MY 2014 KIA OPTIMA...

I HAVE BEEN EXPERIENCING ISSUES WITH MY 2016 KIA OPTIMA SINCE I PURCHASED IT ON SEPTEMBER, 5TH 2016. A SHORT TIME AFTER OWNING MY NEW VEHICLE, FIRST THE CAR STARTED TO HESITATE WHEN STARTING AS IF IT WAS STRUGGLING TO START, THE PUSH BUTTON WOULD TURN RED AND THE INDICATOR LIGHTS WOULD LIGHT UP ON THE DASHBOARD AS IF THE KEY WAS NOT RECOGNIZED IN THE CAR. THE CAR WOULD ALSO SELF ACCELERATE. ON OR AROUND AUGUST 16TH OR 17TH THE CAR STALLED OUT WHILE IT WAS BEING DRIVEN,WE ATTEMPTED TO RESTART THE CAR AND IT TURNED ON LIKE NORMAL SO THE TOW WAS CANCELED. , THE SERVICE WRITER & KIA ALL HAVE COPIES OF THE VIDEOS THE MECHANIC HAS ALSO TOLD ME HE WAS ABLE TO DUPLICATE THE ISSUE, THE SOLUTION WAS TO CHANGE THE FUEL PUMP AND SERVICE THE FUEL DELIVERY SYSTEM. UPON THE SERVICES BEING COMPLETED WE...

SINCE I HAD THE CAR IN AUG2016 BRAND NEW WHEN I GIVE IT GAS THE VALVES PING AND PEAK EXTREMELY BAD NOT MATTER WHAT FUEL I USE ALSO THE AC KEEPS LOOSING POWER IT WILL BLOW FINE THEN IT ALMOST GOES OFF WHILE STILL DRIVING THE SAME SPEED. ALSO SOMETIMES WHEN THIS HAPPENS I HAVE A MISS OR HESITATION IN THE ENGINE. THERE HAS ALSO BEEN A POP NOISE IN THE BACK END WHEN I STOP OR SLOW DOWN SINCE I HAVE HAD THE VEHICLE. I HAVE TAKEN MY CAR 6 TIMES TO THE LOCAL DEALER IN CHAS WV WHERE I PURCHASED THE CAR AND THEY KEEP SAYING THEY CAN'T DIGNOSE THE PROBLEM THEY HAVE TO CONTACT KIA AND NEVER HAVE AN ANSWER WHEH I TAKE THE CAR BACK OR CONTACT THEM.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 KIA OPTIMA. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE HAD A FEW SECONDS DELAY IN ACCELERATION. THE CONTACT TOOK THE VEHICLE TO A DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THERE WAS A SENSOR DELAY. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE ISSUE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 200.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2016 KIA OPTIMA. WHILE DRIVING VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE VEHICLE ACCELERATED INDEPENDENTLY AND THE ENGINE RPMS DRASTICALLY INCREASED TO 6 OR 7. THE CONTACT ALSO STATED THAT THE CHECK ENGINE WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED AND THERE WAS A BURNING ODOR COMING FROM THE ENGINE. IN ADDITION, THE VEHICLE WAS LEAKING OIL. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE CVT VALVE NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE DEALER STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS NUMBER 75 ON THE WAITING LIST FOR THE REPAIRS AND PROVIDED A LOANER VEHICLE. TWO DAYS LATER, THE CONTACT WAS INFORMED BY THE DEALER THAT THEY PERFORMED AN INTERIM REPAIR AND THAT THE VEHICLE COULD BE DRIVEN. THE DEALER ORDERED THE PART FOR A PERMANENT REPAIR. THE CONTACT FELT UNSAFE DRIVING THE VEHICLE. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 1,000.