2010 FORD ESCAPE Unknown Or Other Problems

The power system assist fault light came on and steering is very difficult

Had the car repaired because it stalls at stop signs or waiting for the traffic lights to change has a new turn up and carburetor and had a second opinion and they couldn’t find why but the car still stalled

During routine maintenance my mechanic told me the sub frame of my 2010 FordEscape had a serious problem. It appears there is a design flaw which allows condensation from the air conditioner to be traped and ultimately rust through compromising the frame. They said they didn't recommend driving the car, because if the frame failed the right wheel could detatch causing a catastrophic event. This rust only exists on the passenger side.

Just 120000 km. Because of the water drops from the AC , that part of front frame badly rusted and perforated. Because of the improper design, my 120000 km car now is not safe to drive.

The contact owns a 2010 Ford Escape. The contact stated that while the vehicle was parked and unoccupied in the garage, fumes entered the garage and into the house. The contact had to park the vehicle outside. There were no warning lights illuminated. The contact washed the vehicle at the carwash, but the odor of fumes persisted. The contact scheduled an appointment with the local dealer, but the vehicle was not yet diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was contacted, and they referred the contact to the NHTSA Hotline. The failure mileage was 90,000.

On 8/17/2023 My daughter was on the highway and said she was having a problem after hitting a pothole. I told her to return home. Subframe Broke after hitting a second minor pothole on a side road close to my home. Passenger side tire (fell off?) was turned 90 degrees under the wheel well while the driver side tire was still pointing straight forward. About a 60 foot skid mark dragging the passenger tire at a 90 degree angle until she could pull the vehicle over. If this happened on the highway, I fear the worst would have happened to my daughter. Also, I see that the rear frame is rotted on both sides near the rear shocks.

The evaporative emissions canister purge control valve is making my car jerk when accelerating and does not make my car run correctly. This causes an “rubber” smoke smell and could end up causing more issues down the line. The muffler and exhaust, a/c condenser does not function properly

UNKNOWN Passenger side rear quarter panel rusting above tire well. No other rust on vehicle. In review of online complaints this is common for Ford Escape’s 2008-2012.

Rear frame over rear tires, rusting through frame, I was told by collision shop that the 2008 through 2012 has this problem and Ford motor company has done nothing to fix this problem. It is a safety problem and everyone knows about it and nothing has been done. If this area breaks the driver can lose control and kill someone, I don't think this problem should be ignored any longer. I've kept my escape in mint condition and just found out about this problem. I hope you can look into this and resolve the problem before someone dies because of it. Thank you From: Coy Tidwell

Talked to [XXX] (service Manager) AutoNation Ford regarding issues encountered. Service recall dates back to Nov 16, 2017 where recall issue was not completed correctly. We had contacted AutoNation Ford to address this fuel leak issue. Original recall (16S41) description was about fuel leak underneath the vehicle and after service recall completed in 2017 the issue persisted. This would have caused gasoline leakage causing dangerous condition operating vehicle. This has also been forwarded to NHTSA. INFORMATION Redacted PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).”

My power steering went out after I got my car. My starter doesn’t work I have to use a button on my keys to always start my car the key will not start my car. It’s very hard to turn my car and it went out while I was making a turn and myself siblings and boyfriend almost got hit by an oncoming car. The car has not been inspected, I can have my car looked at most likely upon request unless I have work but I can come in the next available day. There were no messages or warnings to my car or any symptoms before they went out.

Power steering assist fault is on the dashboard and I can barely turn the wheel. This happened while driving 65mph on the highway over wolf creek pass and with the snow I could have driven off the cliff or knocked another vehicle off. Unknown. Unknown. Not yet. No warnings it just jolted and then barely turns. Adaptive Cruise Control I will be driving using Cruise control or without and it will start up and just keep speeding up until I stop it. The car randomly speeding up on its own is dangerous if it does this at all. Unknown. Unknown. Not yet. No warnings and it has happened a good six times so fat. The Jerry app says I have 5 recalls on this vehicle I have already fixed the only one I knew about which is the gas line but I am wondering about the other 4? I am...

The contact owns a 2010 Ford Escape. The contact stated while driving approximately 15 - 20 MPH, the power steering assist failed, and the steering wheel was difficult to turn. The vehicle was not diagnosed nor repaired by an independent mechanic or dealer. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 250,000.

The contact owns a 2010 Ford Escape. The contact stated that while driving at an undisclosed speed, the steering wheel locked up. The power steering assist fault message was displayed. The contact called the local dealer, but vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The contact stated the failure was like NHTSA Campaign Number: 14V284000 (Steering). The manufacturer was not notified of the failure. The failure mileage was unknown.

FIRST I NOTICE THE CAR JUST DROP GEARS AND NEARLY STOP ON THE OFF RAMP OF THE HIGHWAY. SECOND TIME I TRIED TO REVERSE AND IT WOULD NOT MOVE AND I HAD TO CALL A TOW TRUCK TO TAKE IT TO THE GARAGE. FORD TOLD ME IT NEEDED A NEW TRANSMISSION. FORD DEALERSHIP WANTED TO CHARGE ME OVER $ 5000 FOR THE JOB. I WINDED UP GOING TO A LEE MYLES THAT CHARGE COST TO $ 4000 FOR THE REPAIRS IT HAD DONE. NOW FEW MONTHS LATER AND THE VEHICLE IS SHAKING UPON START UP AND IDILING. WHENEVER I DRIVE THE CAR IT FEELS LIKE ITS JERKS SLIGHTLY WHEN GOING AT HIGHER SPEEDS. CHANGED OUT THE AIR FILTER, REBUILT TRANSMISSION AND STILL HAVING PROBLEM AFTER PROBLEMS WITH THIS 2010 FORD ESCAPE.

THE CAR HAS HAD ISSUES STARTING SINCE I BROUGHT IT FROM A USED DEALER LAST SEPTEMBER. OVER TIME IT GOT MORE DIFFICULT TO CRANK. I STARTED CHECKING YOUTUBE TO SEE IF IT WERE JUST ME AND CAME TO LEARN THAT THERE IS A GREAT MULTITUDE OF OTHERS HAVING THE SAME ISSUE WITH THEIR FORD ESCAPES. THE LOCKING MECHANISM FROM THE KEY THAT FLIPS THE IGNITION SWITCH IS EITHER TOO WEEK OR IT DOESN'T TURN FAR ENOUGH FOR THE VEHICLE TO CRANK. I HAVE HAD TO REMOVE THE COVERING FROM MY STEERING WHEEL AND MANUALLY USE THE SPARE KEY AS AN EXTENSION OF THE O E INSIDE THE IGNITION, IN ORDER FOR THE VEHICLE TO CRANK. THE SAME PROCESS IS REQUIRED IN TURNING THE CAR OFF. RIGHT NOW IT WORKS, HOWEVER COULD BE A HAZARD WITH ALL OF THE WIRING IN THE STEERING WHEEL EXPOSED. AND WHO IS TO SAY THAT...

DRIVING VEHICLE DOWN HIGHWAY AT APPROXIMATELY 70MPH, HIT BUMP FROM ROAD CONSTRUCTION. SURFACE WAS SLIGHTLY ELEVATED, STEERING WHEEL JERKED AND THEN WAS TILTED APPROXIMATELY 30 DEGREES OFF CENTER TO THE LEFT. LIFTED VEHICLE AND INSPECTED, FOUND K-FRAME ON PASSENGER SIDE WAS ROTTING THROUGH AND HAD PARTIALLY DETACHED. CAUSING ALIGNMENT TO CHANGE. NOT MUCH MATERIAL IS HOLDING IT ON STILL.

DRIVING ON MAIN LOCAL ROAD APPX 30 MPH WHEN THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT POPPED ON, THEN THE CAR SUDDENLY DIED, I WAS ABLE TO SWERVE TO PARK, SHUT RESTART CAR, CAR SPUTTERED MADE IT TEN FEET AND DIED AGAIN. WENT TO MECHANIC, HE CHECKED ALTERNATOR, BATTERY, AND RAN THE CODE TEST COULD FIND NOTHING WRONG, DRIVING AGAIN APPX 1 WEEK LATER SAME THING HAPPENS AGAIN. MECHANIC CAN FIND NOTHING WRONG. MY CAR DOES NOT EVEN HAVE 60,000 MILES ON IT. I AM THE ONLY OWNER, AND HAVE MAINTAINED MY CAR AS RECOMMENDED. IF ME AND MY FAMILY SHOULD GET INJURED OR DIE IN THIS CAR OUR BLOOD IS ON FORD.

A VIBRATION SPORADICALLY OCCURS IN THE STEERING WHEEL WHEN IDLING MOSTLY BUT NOT ONLY. AT FIRST I THOUGHT IT WAS RELATED TO THE A/C UNIT BUT IT HAPPENS WHETHER ON OR OFF. TEMPERATURES ARE NOT AFFECTED ON GAGES. I BELIEVE THIS WAS WHY THE VEHICLE ONLY HAD 55,000 MILES ON IT WHEN I BOUGHT IT IN 2018. THE VIBRATION OCCURS WHEN MOVING OR STATIONARY WHEN IT HAPPENS ITS SEEMS COMPLETELY RANDOM. IT HAS BEEN HAPPENING NOTICEABLY FOR ABOUT A YEAR NOW. AT LEAST NOTICEABLY. PROBABLY UNRELATED BUT THE VEHICLE HAS ALWAYS HAD SOMETHING A LITTLE OFF ABOUT THE ENGINE WHEN I BOUGHT IT. IT SEEMED A LITTLE LOUDER THAN IT SHOULD BE AND NOT AS SMOOTH I THOUGHT IT SHOULD HAVE BEEN. SO IT MIGHT BEEN AN ISSUE THE WHOLE TIME BUT BECOMING MORE NOTICEABLE. WHEN IT HAPPENS IT USUALLY HAPPENS FOR 30 SECONDS TO A MINUTE BUT HAS LASTED...

ALARM GOES OFF FOR NO REASON WHEN PARKED. REPLACED BATTERIES IN KEY FOBS WITH NO CHANGE. HAD ISSUE INVESTIGATED LAST YEAR BY FORD WITH NO SATISFACTION. WAS OK DURING WINTER BUT NOW IT IS HOT OUTSIDE. HEAT RELATED?

WHEN DRIVING FOR AS LITTLE AS TEN MINUTES AND OTHER TIMES LONGER, MY TRUCK WILL LOSE POWER WHILE DRIVING AND I WILL START TO FEEL THE TRUCK SLOW UP. THEN WHEN TRYING TO ACCELERATE I CAN ONLY GET UP TO 20 MPH. ALSO IF I TAKE MY FOOT OFF THE GAS, WITHOUT PUTTING MY FOOT ON THE BRAKE, IT'LL COME TO A HALT. IT DOES GO OVER 2,500 RPM ON A GOOD DAY. I CANT TAKE OFF FAST EVEN IF I WANTED TO. THE ONLY CODE THAT HAS COME UP WHEN DEALING WITH MY ISSUE IS THE CATALYIC CONVERTER. I HAVE REPLACED MY O2 SENSORS AND GOT A NEW CONVERTER ON BUT STILL HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM. I EVEN REPLACED THE THROTTLE TO SEE IF THAT WOULD HELP AND IT HAS NOT. NO ONE HAS BEEN ABLE TO HELP ME FIGURE OUT THE ISSUE. I HAVE TAKEN IT TO REPUTABLE...

IGNITON SWITCH FAILS TO WORK HALF THE TIME TURN KEY WILL NOT START WITHOUT EXCESSIVE TRIES

MY ENGINE LOCKED OIL LEAKING BATTERY DIES AIR BAG LIGHT COMES ON SUV SHAKES REAR WINDSHIELD WHIPPERS DRAIN BATTERY CONSTANT JUMPS AND ROAD SIDE ASSISTANCE.

THE SWITCH FAILS TO START THE ESCAPE. WE HAVE BEEN HAVING TO PRESS ON THE KEY AND WIGGLE IT. NOW THE CAR FAILS TO START. THIS IS NOT NECESSARILY A SAFETY ISSUE, BUE COULD LEAVE US STRANDED, WHETHER OUT ON THE ROAD, OR SOMEWHERE WE ARE NOT KNOWN. THIS HAPPENS WHEN THE IGNITION IS CUT OFF, AND THEN TRYING TO GET IT STARTED. HAVE ANY OTHER ESCAPE OWNERS HAD THIS PROBLEM. I HAVE BEEN TOLD THAT IT COULD BE REPAIRED BUT THAT THE COST OF THE PARTS WOULD BE OVER $400.00.

ONLY 85000 MILES ON VEHICLE - BOTH REAR WHEEL WELLS RUSTED THROUGH

THE THROTTLE IS MESSING UP.. IT KEEPS STOPPING AND THEN I TURN MY CAR OFF AND START IT AGAIN THEN IT WORKS. IT HAPPENED ON A BUSY STREET AND I HAD MY 3 KIDS WITH ME

WINDOW REGULATOR ON 3 OF 4 WINDOWS HAD TO BE REPLACED. CABLE BREAKS (LOUD, STARTLING BANG), WINDOW "DROPS" AND CANNOT BE RAISED. ONE INCIDENT OCCURRED WHILE DRIVING IN 2017, ONE OCCURRED WHILE CAR WAS STATIONARY AND OCCUPIED IN 2018, AND ONE OCCURRED WHILE CAR WAS PARKED AND VACANT (6/27/19).

I WAS ON THE FREEWAY WHEN THE BATTERY LIGHT CAMO ,THEN ABS LIGHT CAME ON AND THE STEERING WHEEL LOCKED I COULDN'T MOVE TO EITHER SIDE AFTER A FEW SECONDS IT WHEN I'M OFF AND I HAVE CONTROL OF THE VEHICLE AGAIN,IT HAPPENED TWICE AFTER THE BATTERY LIGHT CAME ,THE STEERING WHEEL LOCKED,

WHEN THE VEHICLE COMES TO A STOP WHETHER IT BE A STOP SIGN OR RED LIGHT, THE RPM'S OVER REV HIGHER AT THE TIME OF LEAVING FROM A STOP WHEN GAS IS GIVEN TO VEHICLE. AFTER THE VEHICLE GETS BACK UP TO SPEED THE RPM'S DROP BACK TO A NORMAL RANGE.

2010 FORD ESCAPE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER PANEL MALFUNCTIONS AND SPEED DIAL FALLS TO ZERO WHILE DRIVING. AT TIMES IT DOESN'T WORK AT ALL.

I PURCHASED THE VEHICLE JUST UNDER 2 YEARS AGO ONGOING ISSUES THE CAR WILL STALL OUT/DIE WHILE DRIVING AC/HEAT CAUSES ISSUES I HAVE HAD A TON OF WORK DONE AND THE ISSUES ARE REOCCURRING WHILE DIVING ON CITY STREET IT HAS STALLED OUT AS WELL AS IN PARK. THE CAUSE OF THE ISSUE IS UNKNOWN

I WAS BACKING OUT OF A PARKING SPACE WHEN A BEEP SOUNDED AND MESSAGE "STEERING ASSIST LIGHT CAME UP. I WENT TO BRANFORD (CONNECTICUT) FORD AND THEY SAID THE STEERING COLUMN NEEDED REPLACING. WITHOUT THIS IT COULD JAM AND CAUSE AND ACCIDENT. CAR ALSO HAD STRAINED STARTING. THEY SAID BATTERY WAS WEAK. REPLACED BATTERY. NEXT DAY SAME PROBLEM STARTING. OBVIOUSLY NOT THE NEW BATTERY. .

MY CAR SUDDENLY LOSES POWER WHILE DRIVING. CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON, WITH CODES P2112, P0443, AND C1963. THE ISSUE(S) SEEM TO HAPPEN WHILE I AM DRIVING AT 55MPG OR HIGHER. THIS HAS OCCURRED BOTH ON THE INTERSTATE AS WELL AS BACK ROADS WHERE THE SPEED LIMIT IS 55. THE MOST RECENT TIME THIS HAPPENED WAS A PERIOD STARTING ON 06/04/2018 THROUGH 06/05/2018. THIS HAPPENED 5 TIMES DURING THIS PERIOD, BUT HAS ALSO HAPPENED SEVERAL TIMES SINCE DECEMBER 2017 AS WELL.

THERE IS EXCESSIVE CORROSION AND ROT ON MY SUBFRAME THAT HAS CAUSED A LARGE HOLE AS WELL AS MY CONTROL ARM TO BECOME LOOSE. THIS IS CAUSED BY EXCESSIVE RUST FROM ROAD SALT AND OTHER DIRT. THIS HAS MADE MY CAR UNABLE TO PASS INSPECTION.

I HAVE A 2010 FORD ESCAPE. THE CAR JERKS WHEN ACCELERATING. FEELS LIKE YOU'RE GETTING HIT FROM THE BACK. FORD AUTHORIZED DEALERSHIP BEEN TRYING TO GET IT FIXED FOR ABOUT TWO YEARS NOW CLAIMING THAT THE FAULTY PARTS ARE REPLACED/FIXED. NOW MY EXTENDED WARRANTY HAS EXPIRED AND I STILL HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE IF THE VEHICLE JERKS AND HAVE TO LOOK AROUND.

AIR CONDITIONING DOES NOT WORK AND RADIATOR FAN RUNNING CONSTANTLY AND LOUDLY SOUNDING AS IF IT WILL BLOW UP. THE AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM PARTS HAVE BEEN REPLACED AS HAVE THE RADIATOR FAN RELAY SWITCH. THE ISSUES ARE RE-OCCURING AGAIN. FORD DEALERSHIPS CLAIM THEY HAVE NO KNOWLEDGE OF THIS PROBLEM OR OF A FIX, ALTHOUGH THERE ARE MANY SIMILAR COMPLAINTS ONLINE. THESES ISSUES APPEAR SOMEHOW TO BE RELATED BECAUSE WHEN THE RAD FAN IS ON HIGH, SOON AFTER THE AIR CONDITIONING UNIT DUMPS THE COOLANT. I JUST HAD A 5,000 MILE OIL CHANGE AND INSPECTION AND THE COOLANT WAS SAID TO HAVE BEEN FILTHY, BUT IT HAD JUST BEEN REPLACED IN EARLY JULY 2017, WHEN THE AIR CONDITIONING UNIT DUMPED IT. THE AIR CONDITIONING IS NOT WORKING AND THE RAD FAN IS RUNNING ON HIGH ALL THE TIME.

CAR WAS PARKED IN A PARKING LOT. NOT STARTED. MY MOM PUT SHOPPING PARCELS IN THE TRUNK.WHEN CLOSING THE REAR HATCH DOOR THE WINDOW GLASS EXPLODED OUT. THERE WERE NO ITEMS TOUCHING THE GLASS FROM IN THE TRUNK. THE TEMPERATURE OUTSIDE WAS ABOUT 10 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT.

REAR WINDOW SHATTERED AS CAR WAS PARKED OUTSIDE, AMBIENT TEMPERATURE OF 12 DEGREES F. NO EVIDENCE OF VANDALISM WAS PRESENT.

THE ANTI-THEFT SIGNAL KEEPS COMING ON IN MY CAR. WHEN I AM MOVING AND NOT MOVING ALL THE WARNING IN MY CAR COMES ON. THE SPEEDOMETER GOES TO ZERO, THE GAS GAGE GOES TO EMPTY, ETC WITH ALL THE OTHER WARNING LIGHTS. I WAS DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY AND ALL OF SUDDEN EVERY SINGLE WARNING LIGHT CAME ON. I IMMEDIATELY GOT OFF THE NEXT EXIT AND PARKED AT A GAS STATION. I TURNED THE CAR OFF, BUT IT WOULD NOT START FOR ABOUT 10 MINUTES. I FINALLY GOT IT TO START AND DROVE QUICKLY TO WORK. I TOOK THE CAR THAT AFTERNOON TO FORD SERVICE. THEY SAID IT WAS MY IGNITION, SO THEY CHANGED THE PART AND CHARGED ME OVER $320. WHEN I DRIVE MY CAR THE NEXT MORNING, IT HAPPENED AGAIN. I TOOK MY CAR TO FORD AGAIN THAT MORNING. NOW THEY TELL ME THE BOARD THAT HAD THE...

WRENCH AND ENGINE LIGHT IS ON IN CAR. COMPLETELY STALLED IN TRAFFIC. P2118 CODE WAS DIAGNOSED AND THE THROTTLE BODY SYSTEM IS STUCK OPEN.

WHILE DRIVING, THE WRENCH LIGHT COMES ON AND THE ENGINE LOSES POWER. WHEN I TURN THE ENGINE OFF AND BACK ON THE LIGHT MAY GO OUT BUT WILL COME ON AGAIN AFTER DRIVING. I WAS TOLD BY THE DEALER THIS IS PROBLEM WITH THE THROTTLE. I HAVE HAD THIS REPAIRED TWICE, THE FIRST UNDER A RECALL. I HAD TO PAY FOR THE SECOND REPAIR. NOW IT IS HAPPENING AGAIN ALL WITHIN ABOUT 2 YEARS. THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS WHILE DRIVING IN TRAFFIC AND AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS. I WAS TOLD THAT THIS IS DUE TO A FAULTY PART THAT FORD KNOWS ABOUT. THIS NEEDS TO BE CORRECTED ASAP BEFORE SOMEONE IS SERIOUSLY HURT BECAUSE OF IT.

WHILE DRIVING MY 2010 FORD ESCAPE XLS 4 CYLINDER , THE TRUCK STALLED AND CUT OFF DURING DRIVING. LUCKY I WAS ABLE TO PULL TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. I STARTED THE TRUCK BACK AFTER 30 MINUTES, THE TRUCK DROVE AND AGAIN WITH NO WARNING THE TRUCK STARTED TO STALL AND CUT OFF. THE JUST STARTED TO HAPPEN OUT OF NO WHERE. I BOUGHT THE TRUCK USED AND STILL PAYING ON IT. THE WARRANTY THAT I PURCHASED RAN OUT AT THE BEGINNING OF THIS YEAR. THIS WAS A VERY DANGEROUS SITUATION; THIS HAPPEN RIGHT DURING RUSH HOUR TRAFFIC AND BY THE GRACE OF GOD I WAS ABLE TO PULL TO THE SIDE. I DID MANAGE TO GET THE TRUCK HOME BUT AFTER READING MULTIPLE COMPLAINTS REGARDING THE SAME ISSUE, I FEEL LIKE THIS SHOULD OF BEEN LOOKED INTO BY FORD FOR A POSSIBLE RECALL. FROM WHAT I AM GETTING...

I HAD TO HAVE THE THROTTLE BODY REPLACED AT 75000 MILES. IT COST US 218.00 I HAVE THE RECEIPT.

THE A/C BROKE JUST 2 MONTHS AFTER PURCHASE, AND THE DEALERSHIP TOLD ME IT WASN'T COVERED. I HAVE CLIENTS AND CHILDREN IN MY VEHICLE DAILY, AND IN THE EXTREME DC HEAT IT CAN BE VERY DANGEROUS WITH ONLY HOT AIR BLOWING OUT OF THE VENTS. THIS IS A TERRIBLE PROBLEM, AND I WAS TOLD IT IS A MANUFACTURER DEFECT, WHICH MEANS YOU SHOULD RECALL THESE VEHICLES TO BE REPAIRED. I AM UNABLE TO AFFORD IT ON MY OWN, AS I JUST PURCHASED THIS VEHICLE 2 MONTHS AGO!! THIS IS HORRIBLE, FORD SHOULD RECALL THESE IMMEDIATELY!!

STARTING THE CAR WITH THE KEY. YOU HAVE TO PUSH THE KEY IN HARD AS YOU ARE TURNING IT.

2010 FORD ESCAPE. CONSUMER WRITES IN REGARDS TO REPLACEMENT PARTS NOT AVAILABLE TO REPAIR RECALL NOTICE 16V-777. *SMD UPDATED 05/19/2017*JS UPDATED 08/14/2017*JS

I WAS DRIVING AND THE LIFT GATE SHATTERED.

ALL OF A SUDDEN THE ENGINE STARTS TO REV UP WHEN I AM WAITING AT A TRAFFIC LIGHT OR DRIVING. IT SCARES ME THAT I PUSH ON THE BRAKE MORE AS I AM WAITING FOR TRAFFIC LIGHT TO CHANGE OR WHEN I AM DRIVING I TAKE MY FOOT OFF THE GAS PEDAL BECAUSE AM AFRAID OF GOING FASTER.

TAKATA RECALL / FORD DEFECTIVE PRODUCT LOW MILEAGE ESCAPE INVOLVED IN A FRONTAL CRASH AND REAR ENDED ANOTHER VEHICLE (2005 ACCURA) AND THE AIR BAG SYSTEM FAILED TO DEPLOY. $13,000 ESCAPE WAS TOTALED. THIS IS UNACCEPTABLE.

MY 2010 FORD ESCAPE HAS A MISFIRE BETWEEN THE STEERING OR IGNITION COLUMN AND THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM, THE CAR RIDES VERY ROUGH AND HAS LOST POWER STEERING DURING DRIVING ON A HIGHWAY, BROUGHT INTO FORD DEALERSHIP AND THEY SAID NO RECALL FOR THE PARTS NEEDED TO REPAIR, I READ THENHTSA REPORTS AND READ ALL THE FACTS THAT HAPPENED TO MY CAR IT SAID IT IS THE CONTROL MODULE AND INSTRUMENT CLUSTER MODULE.. BUT DEALERSHIP SAID NO RECALL.