2007 DODGE CALIBER Electrical System Problems

WHILE DRIVING MY CAR AT NIGHT MY RIGHT HEADLIGHT WENT OUT,REPLACED BULB AND DISCOVERED NEW BULB DOES NOT WORK,PROBLEM WAS DIAGNOSED AS A BAD TOTALLY INTEGRATED POWER MODULE,SO A $20.00 LAMP TURNED INTO A COSTLY $1200.00 REPAIR, WHAT IF ALL LIGHTS WENT OUT? AS I INVESTIGATED THIS ISSUE IT IS VERY COMMON ON CHRYSLER/DODGE VEHICLES, THIS OCCURRENCE OF FAILURE CAN AND WILL BE A DANGER IF YOU ENCOUNTER FAILURE WHILING DRIVING AT NIGHT AND LOSE ALL LIGHTS OR OTHER COMPONENTS, I BELIEVE CHRYSLER /DODGE SHOULD BE HELD ACCOUNTABLE FOR THIS FAILURE IN THEIR DESIGN OF THIS NECESSARY COMPONENT IN THEIR VEHICLES AND A SAFETY RECALL SHOULD BE ORDERED! THANK YOU *TR

2007 DODGE CALIBER - TOTALLY INTEGRATED POWER MODULE (TIPM) UNIT ISSUE LOW BEAM HEADLIGHTS STOPPED WORKING WHILE OPERATING VEHICLE. ONLY HIGH BEAM LIGHTS WORK. LOCAL GARAGE DIAGNOSED PROBLEM AS FAULTY TOTALLY INTEGRATED POWER MODULE, WITH A REPAIR COST OF $1225. HEADLIGHTS ARE A NECESSARY COMPONENT TO THE SAFE OPERATION OF A VEHICLE. DODGE OUGHT TO LOOK INTO THE ISSUE OF FAULTY TIPM UNITS AND THE SAFETY IMPLICATIONS INHERENT IN FAILURE OF THE COMPONENT. THE SAFETY OF THE FAMILIES TRAVELING IN VEHICLES MANUFACTURED BY DODGE OUGHT TO BE OF THE GREATEST CONCERN. *TR

TIPM-, BATTERY TERMINALS/HOLDS DOWNS, TBODY. I FOUND THESE ISSUES AND WENT TO THE DEALER IN RELATION TO THESE PROBLEMS AFTER I HAD DONE MY INVESTIGATION. THEY SAW ME WITH THE INFORMATION I HAD, AND BEGAN TO RUN IN THE OTHER DIRECTION. I TOLD THEM WHAT WAS WRONG WITH THE VEHICLE. I JUST HAD SURGERY AND WAS INHALING THE CARBON FROM THE VEHICLE. THIS IS A MAJOR ELECTRICAL ISSUE AND CAD LIGHT PROBLEM. THE VEHICLE ONLY GOES 20 MPH. CHRYSLER RELEASED THIS VEHICLE TO ITS CUSTOMERS FOR LOAN OR PURCHASE WITH A FAULTY DESIGN IN PLACE. CHRYSLER KNEW OF THIS AND PROCEEDED TO SALE THIS VEHICLE IN AN ORDER TO MAKE MONEY AND NOT LOOKING AT THE RISK THAT WE AS CUSTOMERS WOULD BE TAKING AS WELL AS THEM. CHRYSLER DIDN'T EVEN BOTHER TO HAVE A RECALL FOR THIS ISSUE. I AS A CONSUMER FEEL CHEATED AND WANT TO BE COMPENSATED...

HAVING ELECTRICAL ISSUES WITH THE LOW BEAMS ON THE HEADLIGHTS. IT STARTED AS ONE LIGHT NOT WORKING, THEN WENT TO BOTH LIGHTS NOT WORKING. WE HAVE TO USE THE HIGH BEAMS AT NIGHT. THE CAR IS DUE A SAFETY INSPECTION AND WILL NOT PASS DUE TO THE LIGHTING PROBLEM. THERE'S ALSO ISSUES WITH THE ELECTRIC WINDOWS NOT OPERATING AND THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON. I HAVE SPOKEN WITH CHRYSLER ABOUT THE PROBLEM AND THEY WILL NOT DO ANYTHING BECAUSE OUR WARRANTY HAS RUN OUT. THEY DID SAY THAT IF A RECALL WERE TO HAPPEN I COULD GET REIMBURSED. WE DO NOT HAVE THE FUNDS TO FIX IT. *TR UPDATED 11/29/12

I WAS DRIVING TO WORK GOING UP A HILL WHEN THE CAR SHOOK A LITTLE AND STARTED TO DECELERATE. I NOTICED THERE WAS A BLINKING SYMBOL ON THE DASH OF A LIGHTNING BOLT BETWEEN TWO LINES. I WAS NOT ABLE TO ACCELERATE FAST ENOUGH TO KEEP MY SPEED GOING UP THE HILL, AND DECELERATED VERY QUICKLY. ANYTIME I WAS AT A STOP LIGHT IT TOOK ABOUT 5 SECONDS BEFORE I WAS EVEN ABLE TO MOVE FORWARD. DURING THE 5 SECONDS, THE CAR SEEMED LIKE IT WAS GOING TO STALL AT THE INTERSECTION. ONCE I REACHED WORK I LOOKED UP THE LIGHT IN THE OWNERS MANUAL AND FOUND IT TO BE AN ELECTRONIC CONTROL LIGHT. I TRIED TURNING OFF THE CAR AND TURNING IT BACK ON ONLY TO REALIZE THAT NOTHING HAD CHANGED. THIS COULD EASILY CAUSE AN ACCIDENT AND FROM WHAT I UNDERSTAND THERE IS NO FIX, ONLY THEORIES. *TR

FIRST MY CAR STARTED TO SOUND LIKE A DRYER FULL OF BALL BEARINGS THE BALL BEARING THE OEM ONES IN THE ALTERNATOR WENT OUT. THERE IS NO REPLACEMENT PULLEY SO THE WHOLE ALTERNATOR HAD TO BE REPLACED $600+ (FOUND OUT THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM IN 2007 DODGE CALIBERS) THEN WHILE PULLING OUT OF THE PARKING LOT MY TIRE FELL OFF DUE TO FAULTY/WORN-OUT I BALL JOINTS AND UPPER AND LOWER CONTROL ARMS.. HAD TO REPLACE THE ENTIRE FRONT END SUSPENSION $1400+! (THIS IS A MAJOR COMPLAINT AS I HAVE FOUND ONLINE. I HAVE READ OVER 200 DIFFERENT COMPLAINT STATEMENTS) NOT TO MENTION MY ABS LIGHT WAS ON AND THEY HAD TO CHANGE OUT MY SPEED SENSOR 100 +. THEN MY CK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON 2 WEEKS AFTER THE ENTIRE FRONT END SUSPENSION WAS REPLACED WHEN I DROVE THE CAR IT WOULD SHAKE AND ACTED LIKE IT WAS LOSING...

LOW BEAM HEADLIGHT ON PASSENGER SIDE WILL NOT TURN ON TOOK INTO A SHOP AND THEY SAID THAT IT IS THE TIPM TELLING THE LIGHT NOT TO TURN ON SO IN OTHER WORDS ITS A BAD TIPM. I WAS MADE AWARE THAT THE PART WOULD BE CLOSE TO $1200. I'VE RESEARCHED THIS ISSUE ONLINE AND I SEE THAT IT IS A VERY COMMON ISSUE. THE OTHER DAY THE DRIVER SIDE DECIDED TO TURN OFF AS WELL. WHAT HAPPENS WHEN I'M DRIVING IN THE DARK AND THE ONE HEADLIGHT THAT I DO HAVE DECIDES TO TURN OFF AND I GET INTO AN ACCIDENT. A RECALL NEEDS TO BE SET INTO MOTION ON THIS PART. APPARENTLY THE TIPM CAUSES MANY ISSUES OTHER THAN JUST WHAT I'M EXPERIENCING. *JS

THE RECALL CANNOT BE COMPLETED BECAUSE OF FAULTY WIRING BY VIKING DODGE OF CRYSTAL LAKE. THIS DEALERSHIP IS OUT OF BUSINESS. I HAVE DOCUMENTATION THAT THE CRUISE CONTROL INSTALLED BY VIKING DODGE WAS NOT A MOPAR APPROVED PART. I HAVE FURNISHED CHRYSLER ALL THE DOCUMENTATION STATING THAT THIS IS CAUSING A PROBLEM WITH THE THROTTLE PEDAL. THEY HAVE TOLD ME I AM RESPONSIBLE FOR CORRECTING THE INCORRECT INSTALLATION BY ONE OF THERE OLD DEALERSHIPS. *JS

WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS UNDER WARRANTY, THE REAR WIPER AND THE RADIO STOPPED FUNCTIONING NORMALLY. THE WIPER DID NOT WORK AT ALL, AND THE RADIO WAS LOSING THE SOUND WHEN THE ENGINE WAS RUNNING BUT WAS NORMAL WHEN ON ACC. DEALER RE FLASHED THE TIPM AND SAID IF IT EVER HAPPENED AGAIN, I SHOULD DISCONNECT THE BATTERY AND HOLD THE LEADS TOGETHER FOR ABOUT FIVE MINUTES AND IT SHOULD FUNCTION NORMALLY AGAIN. A FEW MONTHS LATER, THE REAR WIPER STOPPED AND THE RADIO BEGAN TO FADE OUT ONCE AGAIN. I DISCONNECTED THE BATTERY AS INSTRUCTED BUT TO NO AVAIL. BOTH DEALERS I TOOK MY VEHICLE TO HAVE GONE OUT OF BUSINESS. THE NEAREST DEALER IS OVER 200 MILES AWAY. I HAVE LIVED WITH THIS PROBLEM NOW FOR TWO YEARS. NOW, MYSTERIOUSLY, THE REAR WIPER HAS BEGUN TO FUNCTION ONCE AGAIN ALL BY ITS SELF. THE RADIO?.....NOT AT ALL. I HAVE...

I PURCHASED THIS CAR USED FROM A DEALERSHIP DUE TO THE FACT THAT I HAVE AN HOUR DRIVE TO AND FROM WORK AND IT APPEARED TO HAVE GREAT GAS MILEAGE. WITHIN MY FIRST TWO WEEKS OF OWNERSHIP THE STARTER WAS STUCK ENGAGED AS I DROVE AND CAUGHT FIRE. THIS I REPLACED KNOWING WITH AGE, STARTERS AND ALTERNATORS DIE. A MONTH AFTER SERVICING THE STARTER, I WAS DRIVING ON THE INTERSTATE AT A SPEED OF 67MPH IN HEAVY TRAFFIC WHEN A LIGHTENING BOLT (ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL SENSOR LIGHT) FLASHED AND THE CAR JERKED AS IF IT WERE TO STALL. I CONTACTED MY LOCAL DODGE DEALER WHO INFORMED ME THAT IT PROBABLY WAS THE THROTTLE BODY AND THAT I MIGHT AS WELL DRIVE THE CAR FOR A BIT BECAUSE THE LIGHT WAS NOT STAYING LIT. EVERY SINCE THEN THE LIGHT HAS FLASHED ON ATLEAST ONCE A MONTH WITH THE CAR VIOLENTLY JERKING...

WHILE DRIVING OVER THE WHITESTONE BRIDGE IN NY, AT THE CREST OF THE BRIDGE THE VEHICLES ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL FAILURE REDUCING THE SPEED OF VEHICLE FROM 50 MPH TO 5 MPH IN THE COURSE OF LESS THEN A MINUTE. I WAS NEARLY KILLED BY A TRACTOR TRAILER TRUCK WHO WAS ABLE TO SWERVE AROUND MY CAR. THE CART ROLLED DOWN THE BRIDGE WITH LIMITED POWER. FROM ALL THE COMPLAINTS I AM READING ON VARIOUS CALIBER WEBSITES THIS SEEMS TO BE A SERIOUS DANGEROUS CONDITION THAT SHOULD BE REVIEWED BEFORE SOMEONE GETS KILLED. *TR

I HAVE HAD CONSTANT PROBLEMS WITH THIS CAR. MY KEY ABRUPTLY STOPPED WORKING LAST YEAR AND I HAVE TO PAY $500 BECAUSE THE DEALERSHIP SAID THE COMPUTER COULD NO LONGER RECOGNIZED MY KEY SO I HAD TO GET A NEW ONE. MY GEAR SHAFT BEGAN TO JAM AND I HAD TO PAY $200 TO GET A CHIP REPLACED BECAUSE IT WAS SHOT. NOW MY TOTALLY INCORPORATED POWER MODULE WAS SHOT TODAY WHEN I TOOK IT TO GET CHECKED AT THE DEALERSHIP TODAY. THE COST IS ESTIMATED TO BE $1150. I AM SICK AND TIRED OF ALL THE PROBLEMS THIS CAR IS PRESENTING IN MY LIFE. *TR

THE LIGHTS BEHIND THE DASH WENT OUT WITHOUT WARNING. THERE IS NO WAY TO SEE SPEED IN THE DARK. THERE ARE MANY EXISTING CASES ONLINE. DODGE IMMEDIATELY RECOGNIZED THE ISSUE WHEN CALLED AND WAS NOT CONCERNED ABOUT SAFETY ISSUE. *TR

PROBLEMS WITH THE TOTALLY INTEGRATED POWER MODULE. MY HEAD LIGHTS ARE NOT WORKING PROPERLY. *TR

AT APPROX 6PM ON 11/11 WHILE ATTEMPTING TO ENTER THE INTERSTATE MY VEHICLE BEGAN TO JERK VIOLENTLY. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT BEGAN TO BLINK AND THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT EXCEED 35 MPH. I TOOK THE VEHICLE TO A LOCAL AUTOZONE TO HAVE IT DIAGNOSTIC. MULTIPLE MISFIRES ON ALL CYLINDERS. I HAD THE SPARK PLUGS REPLACED THAT WEEKEND BECAUSE MY DEALERS REPAIR SHOP WAS FULL. PROBLEM STILL OCCURRED SO I LEFT THE CAR AT THE DEALER FOR THEM TO CHECK THE ENGINE. THE CAMSHAFT SENSOR NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. THIS IS NOT COVERED UNDER THE 50,000 MILES ENGINE AND POWER TRAIN WARRANTY BECAUSE IT IS NOT A MOVING PART. I JUST HAD TO REPLACE BOTH BALL JOINTS AND UPPER AND LOWER CONTROL ARMS ON THE CAR IN JUNE. IT IS CURRENTLY AT 42,600 MILES. THE ALIGNMENT IS OFF AGAIN SO I'M SUSPECTING THE BALL JOINTS ARE GOING BAD AGAIN. *TR

WAS DRIVING 35-40 MPH WHEN ETC LIGHT CAME ON AND CAR WAS JOLTING FORWARD AND LOSING POWER BACK AND FORTH. BELLETIRE WOULDN'T TOUCH IT CUZ THEY SAID IT SEEMED TO THEM LIKE A RECALL ISSUE. HE SAID THAT EITHER THE ECU NEEDED RESET OR THE DRIVE BY WIRE SYSTEM WAS MALFUNCTIONING . THIS IS ALSO AFTER MY CONTROL ARMS WERE BAD AT 48000 MILE. BOTH OF THESE PROBLEMS I HAVE HAD HAVE THOUSANDS OF COMPLAINTS ONLINE FOR THEM AND ARE NOTORIOUS FOR THESE PROBLEMS. *TR

I HAD THE CAR FOR A YEAR AND WHEN I WENT TO GET MY ANNUAL INSPECTION, THE INSPECTION PLACE STATED THE CAR COMPUTER CHIP IS NOT ABLE TO READ. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 40 TO 50 MPH, ALL OF THE LIGHTS ON THE INSTRUMENTAL PANEL ILLUMINATED AND THE ENGINE BEGAN TO LOSE POWER BEFORE THERE WAS AN INCREASE IN THE ENGINE RPMS TO 8,000. THE VEHICLE THEN BEGAN TO SUDDENLY ACCELERATE AND WHEN THE BRAKES WERE ENGAGED, THE SMART BRAKING SYSTEM ACTIVATED. AS A RESULT, THE VEHICLE FISH TAILED. THE CONTACT LOST CONTROL OF THE VEHICLE, BUT WAS ABLE TO MANEUVER TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE, BUT OFFERED NO ASSISTANCE BECAUSE THE VEHICLE WAS NOT INCLUDED IN THE RECALL ASSOCIATED WITH NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID NUMBER 10V234000 (VEHICLE SPEED CONTROL: ACCELERATOR PEDAL) AND THE WARRANTY EXPIRED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGES WERE 88,000. THE CONSUMER STATED AROUND 30,000 HE BEGAN TO EXPERIENCE MAJOR ELECTRICAL PROBLEM....

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT WAS DRIVING 30 MPH WHEN ALL OF THE LIGHTS ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL ILLUMINATED AND THE VEHICLE SUDDENLY ACCELERATED. THE CONTACT ALSO MENTIONED THAT AFTER THE ABS LAMP ILLUMINATED, THE SYSTEM ENGAGED WHICH CAUSED HIM TO TEMPORARILY LOSE CONTROL OF THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO THE DEALER. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE WHO DID NOT OFFER ANY ASSISTANCE SINCE THE VEHICLE WAS OUT OF WARRANTY. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 88,000.

HAD TO REPLACE ALTERNATOR AND MY AIRBAG LIGHT CONTINUALLY COMES ON. MY SISTER HAS THE SAME PROBLEM WITH HER DODGE AND HERS IS A DIFFERENT MODEL..

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 60 MPH, THE VEHICLE STALLED WITHOUT WARNING. IN ADDITION, THE ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL WARNING LIGHT WAS ILLUMINATED ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL AND THE VEHICLE WOULD DECELERATE INDEPENDENTLY. THE VEHICLE WAS INSPECTED BY AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHO ADVISED THAT THE ALTERNATOR NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE DEALER WAS CONTACTED AND THE PART WAS ORDERED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 50,000.

LAST WEEK I STARTED NOTICING A LOUD RATTLE IN THE ENGINE OF MY CALIBER. I TOOK IT TO THE DEALER AND THEY SAID IT WAS THE BELT TENSIONER. I GOT IT REPLACED AND IT GOT RID OF THE SQUEAKING NOISE BUT NOT THE RATTLE. I DID RESEARCH ONLINE AND DISCOVERED THAT MANY PEOPLE WERE HAVING ALTERNATOR PROBLEMS AND SHOWED SIMILAR SYMPTOMS AS MINE DID. I CONTACTED THE DEALER AND SAID THAT IT WOULD BE $680 TO REPLACE. I DECIDED TO GO WITH ANOTHER MECHANIC BECAUSE IT WAS CHEAPER. THIS MECHANIC REPLACED IT AND SHOWED ME THE OLD PART, IT WAS COMPLETELY BURNT. HE SAID THAT THERE SHOULD BE NO WAY THAT A CAR WITH 60,000 MILES ON IT SHOULD HAVE AN ALTERNATOR IN THIS CONDITION. HE ALSO MENTION THAT IT COULD HAVE CAUGHT ON FIRE. WHY IS THERE NOT A RECALL ON THIS? *TR

THE TURN SIGNAL STAYED ON, EVERYTHING ELECTRIC SHUT OFF, THEN WHEN I PUT THE CAR IN PARK AND TOOK OUT MY KEY, THE CAR WAS STILL RUNNING!! THIS HAPPENED TWICE AND NO ONE CAN FIGURE OUT WHAT COULD POSSIBLY BE WRONG. THEN MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WENT ON. THE DIAGNOSTIC TEST READ P0708. I WAS TOLD I CANNOT SIMPLY FIX THIS SENSOR, THAT I WOULD NEED A WHOLE NEW TRANSMISSION. MY CAR IS 4 YEARS OLD AND HAS 53,000 MILES ON IT! HOW COULD I NEED A NEW TRANSMISSION, WHO CAN AFFORD A NEW TRANSMISSION!? THE CAR HAS BEEN EXTREMELY WELL TAKEN CAR OF, NORMAL OIL CHANGES, INSPECTIONS, I JUST BOUGHT 2 NEW FRONT TIRES! THIS IS UNBELIEVABLE. *TR

ALMOST A YEAR AGO MY 2007 DODGE CALIBER SXT STARTED JERKING BACK AND FORTH AND FELT LIKE IT WAS GOING TO DIE. THE ELECTRONIC THROTTLE BODY LIGHT CAME ON BUT AS SOON AS I SLOWED DOWN, THE LIGHT WENT OFF. I CALLED MY LOCAL DEALERSHIP AND TOLD THEM ABOUT THE PROBLEM. THEY STATED THAT IF THE LIGHT IN THE DASHBOARD WASN'T STAYING ON THEY COULD NOT GET A CODE FROM THE CAR BUT I COULD BRING IT IN AND THEY COULD TRY IT ANYWAYS FOR $105. I TOOK IT SOMEONE I KNOW AND THEY READ THE CODE OFF OF IT, 2120 P2110, I CALLED THE DEALERSHIP BACK AND TOLD THEM THE CODE. THEY TOLD ME THAT THEY WOULD HAVE TO RUN THEIR OWN TESTS AND CHARGE ME TO SEE WHAT WAS HAPPENING BUT IF THERE WAS NO LIGHT THAN THEY COULDN'T DO ANYTHING. I ASKED THEM IF THIS IS DANGEROUS...

MY 2007 DODGE CALIBER STALLS OUT WHILE I'M DRIVING. IT HAS 50,000 MILES ON THE SPEEDOMETER AND I PURCHASED IT USED LAST SEPT 2009. THE PROBLEM OCCURRED ABOUT 5 TIMES BEFORE I DECIDED TO TAKE IT TO A LOCAL MECHANIC TO HAVE A DIAGNOSTIC TEST RUN. THE DASHBOARD WARNING SIGNAL WOULD COME ON SIGNIFYING "ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL". THIS ISSUE HAS COME UP IN DIFFERENT DRIVING CONDITIONS BUT USUALLY IN THE FIRST 15MINS OF DRIVING. USUALLY I AM AT A STOP AND THEN WHEN I ATTEMPT TO ACCELERATE , THE CAR DIES. IT STARTS RIGHT BACK UP BUT, BECAUSE I LOSE POWER, I'M FORCED TO PULL OVER IN TRAFFIC UNEXPECTEDLY. THIS IS A DEFINITE SAFETY CONCERN FOR ME. THE VEHICLE WILL BE AT THE DODGE DEALERSHIP TOMORROW SO THAT THEIR MECHANICS CAN LOOK IT OVER. I HAVE BEEN IN TOUCH WITH CHRYSLER AT 800-853-1403 AND HAVE BEEN TOLD THIS ISSUE HAS...

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 35 MPH, BOTH FRONT AXLES FAILED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER AND REPAIRED UNDER WARRANTY. THE CONTACT ALSO EXPERIENCED PROBLEMS WITH THE RADIO AND THE PROBLEM WAS REPAIRED BY THE DEALER. THE CONTACT WAS DRIVING 25 MPH WHEN THE VEHICLE SUDDENLY DOWNSHIFTED. THE CONTACT BELIEVED THE FAILURE WITHIN RECALL 10V234000 (VEHICLE SPEED CONTROL: ACCELERATOR PEDAL) WAS THE CAUSE OF THE PROBLEM. THE VEHICLE HAD NOT BEEN REPAIRED. THE VIN WAS UNAVAILABLE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 27,000 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 36,400.

THE TOTALLY INTEGRATED POWER MODULE ON LEFT SIDE OF THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT IS NOT WORKING. SO ,THE BRAKE LIGHTS & HORN DO NOT WORK . HOWEVER, THE INDIVIDUAL COMPONENT WAS TESTED THE BRAKE LIGHTS & HORN WORK INDIVIDUALLY. I DON'T KNOW HOW LONG I HAVE BEEN DRIVING LIKE THIS BUT ONE OF MY CO WORKERS TOLD ME MY BRAKE LIGHTS WERE OUT BECAUSE HE ALMOST HIT ME IN THE REAR. THIS PART IS NOT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY BECAUSE IT IS NOT PART OF THE ENGINE. IT WILL COST APPRX. $820 FOR REPAIR. WHICH I CANNOT AFFORD AT THIS TIME. I AM REPORTING THIS BECAUSE IT IS A SAFETY ISSUE DRIVING WITHOUT BRAKE LIGHTS OR A HORN. SOMEONE CAN GET SERIOUSLY HURT OR POSSIBLY DIE FROM DRIVING LIKE THIS. *TR

I HAVE A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. I CAN REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION WITHOUT PUTTING THE CAR IN "PARK". THIS ALLOWS THE CAR TO ROLL WHEN IT IS NOT ON. THIS IS A SAFETY CONCERN, AS I HAVE ON MULTIPLE OCCASIONS EXITED THE CAR, AT WHICH TIME IT BEGINS TO ROLL AWAY. THERE IS CURRENTLY A RECALL FOR CERTAIN 2010 CHRYSLER PRODUCTS (NHTSA CAMPAIGN #10V200000). I BELIEVE THIS SHOULD BE EXTENDED TO INCLUDE 2007, IF NOT THE YEARS IN BETWEEN AS WELL. *TR

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATE 30 MPH THE VEHICLE STALLED AND THE TRANSMISSION LIGHT ILLUMINATED. SHE DROVE ONTO THE EMERGENCY LANE FOR 20 MINUTES AND THE VEHICLE BEGAN TO FUNCTION NORMALLY. THE DEALER REPLACED THE COMPUTER CHIP. THE FAILURE HAPPENED A WEEK LATER AND WAS TAKEN BACK TO DEALER WHO STATED THAT THEY DID NOT KNOW HOW TO FIX THE FAILURE. SHE THEN TOOK THE VEHICLE TO ANOTHER DEALER WHO REPLACED THE TRANSMISSION. TWO WEEKS LATER THE VEHICLE STALLED AGAIN. THE CONTACT STATED THE DEALERSHIP ADVISED HER THAT THEY WOULD CALL HER WHEN SPECIAL TECHNICIANS CAME FROM CHRYSLER. THE DEALER NEVER NOTIFIED HER. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 42,000 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 43,000.

I BOUGHT A 2007 DODGE CALIBER IN APRIL 08, IT HAD 12,00 MILES ON IT. IT NOW HAS 70,000 MILES. IT IS MAKING A LOUD CLICKING NOISE IN THE FRONT END. I CAN FEEL IT IN THE STEERING WHEEL AND ON THE FLOOR BOARD WHENEVER I MAKE A TURN OR GO OVER A BUMP. I DO NOT HAVE A WARRANTY, AND THE DEALER WANTS 75.00 JUST TO LOOK AT THE CAR. ALSO, WHILE DRIVING WITH MY SMALL CHILD, MY TURN SIGNALS, HIGH BEAM HEADLIGHTS, AND WIPERS JUST STOPPED WORKING. I HAVE LOOKED AT HUNDREDS OF OTHER COMPLAINTS ABOUT THESE SAME ISSUES, BUT I DO NOT KNOW OF ANY RECALLS FOR THESE SAME ISSUES. THIS IS AN EXTREME SAFETY ISSUE WHILE DRIVING. I AM NOT SURE HOW I WILL BE ABLE TO PAY FOR THESE PROBLEMS WITH THE CAR. WONDERING HOW DODGE CAN GET AWAY WITH THESE SAME ISSUES HAPPENING WITH...

POSITIVE BATTERY POST ON ORIGINAL MANUFACTURER BATTERY CAME LOOSE FROM BODY AND RELEASED BATTERY ACID INTO ENGINE COMPARTMENT. BATTERY ACID ATE THROUGH PROTECTIVE COATING ON WIRES TO MAIN ELECTRICAL AND CAUSED CAR TO STALL AND MALFUNCTION. *TR

ON SATURDAY, 5/30/09, WHILE DRIVING DODGE CALIBER 2007 BACK HOME, ALL INSTRUMENT GAUGES NEEDLES SUDDENLY AND ERRATICALLY SWING UP AND DOWN. I STARTED SMELLING A ROTTEN-EGG SULFUR ODOR AND EXPERIENCED MILD THROAT AND LUNG IRRITATION. AS SOON AS I ARRIVED HOME, WITH ENGINE STILL RUNNING, I STARTED INVESTIGATING THE CAUSE OF GAUGES NEEDLES ERRATIC MOTION AND SOURCE OF SULFUR ODOR. FIRST, I CHECKED THE RECENTLY REPLACED MANUFACTURER ORIGINAL ALTERNATOR, WHICH HAS RECENTLY CATASTROPHICALLY FAILED. PLEASE SEE RECENTLY FILED 5/16/09, NHTSA SAFETY COMPLAINT, ODI #10268931. AFTER I VERIFIED THAT THE NEW ALTERNATOR WAS WORKING CORRECTLY, I STARTED SNIFFING AND TRACING THE SOURCE OF SULFUR ODOR. FIRST, I THOUGHT ODOR WAS COMING FROM COMPUTER MODULE; THEN, I THOUGHT IT WAS COMING FROM FUSE BOX NEXT TO COMPUTER MODULE. AS I SNIFFED CLOSER TO FUSE BOX, UNDER PLASTIC ENGINE AIR INTAKE MANIFOLD, I NOTICED BATTERY SQUIRTING BOILING-STEAMING SULFURIC ACID. I FOUND THE SOURCE...

MARCH 13, 2009, I PURCHASED A USED DODGE CALIBER 2007. FEW WEEKS LATER, I STARTER HEARING NOISE WHICH KEPT INCREASING IN INTENSITY AS THE DAYS WENT BY. I THOUGHT IT WAS PROBABLY A LOOSE OR BAD SERPENTINE BELT TENSIONER OR IDLER. ON MAY 17, WHILE DRIVING THE CAR BACK HOME, THE ABS, AIR BAG, BATTERY, AND CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS TURN ON. AT HOME IN THE DRIVEWAY, WITH ENGINE RUNNING, WHEN I OPENED THE HOOD, I NOTICED SPARKS AROUND THE ALTERNATOR AREA. I THOUGHT IT WAS THE SERPENTINE BELT TOUCHING A LOOSE METAL THAT WAS CREATING THE SPARKS. TODAY, MAY 16, I REMOVED THE ALTERNATOR AND NOTICED THE ALTERNATOR WINDINGS ARCED AND MELTED THE COPPER WIRE WINDINGS AND THE ALUMINUM HOUSING. I HAVE THE ALTERNATOR AND PICTURES READILY AVAILABLE FOR YOUR EVALUATION. I DID A GOOGLE SEARCH AND DISCOVERED THAT OTHER DODGE CAVALIER OWNERS HAVE EXPERIENCE THE SAME PREMATURE CATASTROPHIC FAILURE...

2007 DODGE CALIBER HAVE HAD THIS CAR SINCE JUNE 2006. IN THE 14 MONTHS I HAVE HAD IT ON AVERAGE IT SEEMS AT LEAST ONCE A MONTH I HAVE TO TAKE TIME OUT OF MY SCHEDULE/WORK TO GO TO THE DEALERSHIP DROP IT OFF AND EXPLAIN THE SAME REPEAT PROBLEMS. THIS NOT ONLY TAKES TIME BUT I ALSO HAVE TO MAKE OTHER ARRANGEMENTS FOR TRANSPORTAION. THE CAR HAS HAD A GRINDING TYPE NOISE UPON IGNITION SINCE I BOUGHT IT ALONG WITH THE ENGINE CONSTANTLY WANTING TO STALL UPON SLOW DOWN OR COMPLETE STOPS AND THEN TRYING TO ACCELORATE AGAIN. THIS HAS CAUSED ME TO NEARLY BE REARENDED AND OR HIT NUMEROUS TIMES. EACH TIME I HAVE HAD IT IN THE SERVICE CENTER I AM TOLD THE GRINDING NOISE CAN NOT BE DETECTED. I PICK THE CAR UP AND NO SOONER THAN I GET HOME AND LEAVE AGAIN IT HAPPENS. AS...

I JUST RECENTLY PURCHASED A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. IT HAS BEEN LESS THAN 30 DAYS SINCE I HAVE HAD THE CAR. THE CAR WAS A NICE VEHICLE, UNTIL ONE DAY COMING HOME FROM HEIDELBERG, GERMANY. I WAS ON AUTOBAHN 656 BETWEEN HEIDELBERG AND MANNHEIM. I WAS IN THE LEFT LANE DRIVING ABOUT 70 K/HR. I WENT TO TURN ON MY HEADLIGHTS AND AS I DID THE ENTIRE DASHBOARD PANEL WENT BLANK. ALL METERS (ODOMETER, TACOMETER, AND SPEEDOMETER) DROPPED TO ZERO, BUT THEY QUICKLY CAME BACK ON. WHEN THEY RETURNED TO NORMAL, THE TRANSMISSION HAD SHIFTED INTO NEUTRAL, CAUSING ME TO NEARLY GET REAR-ENDED BY A CAR TRAVELING BEHIND ME. I WAS UNABLE TO SHIFT BACK INTO DRIVE. I CHANGED LANES AND GOT TO THE SHOULDER AND SHUT OFF THE CAR. WHEN I SHUT IT OFF AND LET IT SIT FOR ABOUT 5 MINUTES, I RESTARTED THE CAR AND WAS ABLE...

THE FIRST WEEK I HEARD A HARD & SOLID CLICK NOISE COMING FROM THE REAR OF THE VEHICLE 6-15-06. ON 6-18-06 WHILE IN STAND-STILL TRAFFIC THE VEHICLES OIL LIGHT LIT UP & CHIMED PRIOR TO THE ENGINE STALLING & IN NEUTRAL WITH THE CLUTCH TO THE FLOOR. ON 6-19-06 I TOOK IT IN TO THE SHOP. JOHN AND I RETURNED TO THE DEALERSHIP 6-22-06 SPOKE WITH BOB CORLETTE ABOUT THE MULTIPLE MECHANICAL FAILURES. WE WERE TOLD BY BOB THAT THERE IS NOTHING THAT THEY CAN DO. WE SPOKE WITH DAVID TINDALE (WHO PROVIDED THE OWNERS MANUAL) & WHO REASSURED BOTH OF US THAT THE PROBLEMS WOULD EITHER BE FIXED OR IF THEY COULDN'T BE FIXED THAT THEY WOULD BE ABLE TO ENACT THE LEMON LAW & REPLACE THIS CAR WITH A NEW ONE. I DROPPED THE VEHICLE OFF THE FOLLOWING WEEK 6-26-06, LEN THOMAS SAID THE STALLING PROBLEM COULD NOT...

AT 200 MILES, MY CAR'S ENGINE STARTED TO RATTLE AND MY POWER LOCK HAD A SHORT. I CALLED AND CALLED THE DEALERSHIP UNTIL 1000 MILES LATER THEY CHECKED THE PROBLEM. THEY GAVE ME AN EXCUSE FOR THE MOTOR RATTLING WAS THAT THERE WAS SUCH THING AS WINTER AND SUMMER FUEL AND THAT I SHOULD CHANGE GASOLINE STATIONS AND BRANDS TO SEE IF THAT WOULD CORRECT THE PROBLEM. I FOLLOWED THEIR INSTRUCTIONS AND WENT PRACTICALLY ALL OVER TOWN GASHING UP. I JUST HAD IT CHECKED AGAIN AT 1527 MILES, THE NOISE GOT WORST. THE MOTOR RATTLES WHEN I ACCELERATE AND WHEN IT ALSO REACHES THE REGULAR TEMPERATURE. IN THE MORNING WHEN MY ENGINE IS STILL COLD IT DOESN'T RATTLE BUT AS SOON AS IT REACHES THE REGULAR TEMPERATURE IT STARTS RATTLING. MY MOTOR RATTLES A LOT WORST. YESTERDAY AT 1430 MILES AS I WAS WAITING FOR THE LIGHT TO TURN GREEN,...