2007 DODGE CALIBER Electrical System Problems

The contact owns a 2007 Dodge Caliber. The contact stated that the ECU had been hacked. While driving on the highway at 70 MPH, the brakes applied without application, but I was able to move to the right lane. The vehicle was able to pull over safely, and it stalled. While parking with the foot on the brakes, the vehicle suddenly accelerated and crashed into a small pole. There was no reported fire, airbag deployment, police report filed, or injuries. While in neutral, the vehicle suddenly accelerated. The driver was able to shift to neutral. The vehicle was making an abnormal growling sound. There was no light inside. While using the headlights, the windshield wipers turned on for five minutes. After locking the vehicle, the headlights remain on. While using the turn signal, the windshield wipers engaged without application. While driving in the rain, the vehicle hydroplaned. The contact stated...

The air bag light and sound are going off without any collision or accident type. Just randomly started going off. Airbags have never been deployed and goes off with or without weight on the seats.

My throttle body keeps going in and out which cause me to have to get an alternator replaced twice plus a crankshaft twice. Now my car is smoking which is the valve cover gasket . Also my car lights went out one at a time so my driver side lights wnt work at all in the front and the passenger side front won't work just my signal on the passenger side. Also my dashboard won't work properly it keeps goin on and off as I turn on other lights in my car . When I signal left my car light on the roof comes on. I spent $12000 on this car from a dealership and have done nothing but put money into it more than I paid for it.

Passenger side headlight and driver's side tail light not working. Bulbs have been replaced and tested as to being good. Went on internet and found this to be a very common problem with Dodge and Chrysler vehicles, many times requiring replacement of the TPIM. Grounds have been checked as good. Dealer says repair requires replacement of the TIPM for $1,600.00!! Vehicle lighting are safety items covered by vehicle laws. These are safety issues and customers should not be held hostage for ransom for their poor design. Dodge and Chrysler should be replacing these TIPMs when they start failing without cost to customers.

I was driving at night time and my left side lowbeam headlight went out. Then briefly after the right side. I put my highbeams on to finish my trip home and then right before I made it home they both went out. Upon having the vehicle diagnosed it would be a $1000 part plus labor known as the TIPM. My friend has his own garage and he jumped power from my foglights. My headlights now work but he said he won't be long until other things start failing. Now my dash lights went out 2 weeks ago while I was on the interstate. I immediately pulled over and tried turning the car off and on and nothing. So I turned on my hazard flashers and drove 25 miles home with no dash lights. They will flicker on and off so rapidly I turned my dimmer switch the whole way down...

dash light not working at night. can't see speedometer at night

THE ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL WENT OUT ON ME AS I WAS ENTERING THE FREEWAY. THE ETC IS BASICALLY THE CAR LOSING ALL POWER BUT THE VEHICLE DOES NOT SHUT OFF ONLY THE GAS PEDDLE LOSES ALL POWER. IT WAS VERY SCARY WHEN YOUR LITTERALY CARRYING YOUR ENTIRE FAMILY INCLUDING YOUR DOGGY.

2007 DODGE CALIBER. THE TIPM BOX IS MALFUNCTIONED, AND CONTINUES TO BE. THIS IS AN ISSUE ASSOCIATED WITH THE STOCK, FACTORY TIPM BOX.

THE TIPS IS SHORTING OUT. GOING TO COST 2200 TO FIX. THIS IS A RECALL IN OTHER VEHICLES AROUND THE SAME YEAR. WHY DOES IT NOT APPLY TO THE CALIBER. SEEMS TO BE AN ISSUE. LOOKED INTO SEVERAL FORUMS WITH SAME ISSUE THAT KEEPS POPPING UP.

THIS PROBLEM OCCURS WHEN THE VEHICLE IS STATIONARY AND IN MOTION. THE VEHICLE WILL START TO FREAK OUT BY LOSING ALL OF ITS GAUGES AND CONTROLS, ALSO THE AIR BAG, ELECTRICAL, ABS AND CHECK ENGINE WILL COME ON. THERE WAS NO WARNING SIGNS WHEN THIS INITIALLY OCCURRED. I TOOK IT TO A DEALER AND THEY CLAIMED THE IT WAS THE TIPM (TOTAL INTEGRATED POWER MODULE) AND ITS SUPER COMMON WITH DODGE PRODUCTS. I WAS INFORMED THAT THERE IS A RECALL ON OTHER DODGE PRODUCTS FOR THIS VERY ISSUE BUT NOT THE CALIBER. I DO NOT UNDERSTAND THIS NOR HOW IF THIS IS A PROBLEM ON OTHER MODELS FROM THE SAME YEAR IT CAN BE COVERED UNDER WARRANTY BUT NOT FOR THIS CAR.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING AT VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE HEADLIGHTS FAILED TO ILLUMINATE. ADDITIONALLY, THE BRAKE LIGHTS REMAINED ILLUMINATED WHILE DRIVING. THE CONTACT THAT THE DRIVER'S AND PASSENGER'S SIDE BALL JOINTS AND TIE RODS WERE REPLACED SEVERAL TIMES AT BRANDYWINE CHRYSLER JEEP DODGE RAM (3807 KIRKWOOD HWY, WILMINGTON, DE 19808). THE MANUFACTURER WAS INFORMED OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 43,000.

I WAS DRIVING AND THE BATTERY LIGHT CAME ON. LATER ON WHEN ABOUT 100 MILES FROM HOME THERE ARE SEVERAL OTHER LIGHTS THAT COME ON AND THEN WHILE RUNNING APPROX 60MPH THE CAR JUST SHUTS DOWN IN THE MIDDLE OF THE ROAD. AFTER REPLACING THE ALTERNATOR AND BATTERY THE BATTERY LIGHT CONTINUES TO STAY ON. I TAKE THE CAR TO A LOCAL GARAGE TO FIND OUT THE TIPM NEEDS TO BE REPLACED WHICH APPEARS TO COST OVER $1000 IN WHICH I DO NOT HAVE TO SPEND.

I RECENTLY PURCHASED THE VEHICLE FROM THE ORIGINAL OWNER. THE VEHICLE LIGHT FLASHES WHILE DRIVING. THE MILEAGE IS CURRENTLY 91K MILES. NOW THE LIGHTENING BOLT SYMBOL WILL NOT TURN OFF AND THE VEHICLE WILL NOT ACCELERATE OVER 39 MILES. I HAVE NOT BEEN ABLE TO DRIVE THE VEHICLE FOR OVER A WEEK.

I HAVE HAD THIS PROBLEM SINCE THE BEGINNING OF OWNERSHIP. THE CAR WON'T START, I HAVE HAD SO MANY BATTERIES THINKING THIS WAS THE PROBLEM. THE CAR WON'T START EVEN WITH A NEW BATTERY OR THE BATTERY WILL HAVE TO BE REPLACED WITHIN MONTHS. I PLAN TO GO SOMEWHERE AND CAN'T BECAUSE IT WON'T START...LIKE RIGHT NOW. I HAVEN'T BEEN ABLE TO START IT IN DAYS. SOMETIMES BY WIGGLING THE WIRES I CAN START IT BUT NOW IT IS SO BAD IT WON'T START.

STARTED VEHICLE WHICH HAD BEEN RUNNING PERFECTLY FINE, JUST GOT A OIL CHANGE A FEW DAYS PRIOR. STARTED DRIVING AND THE CAR STARTS SPUTTERING LIKE IT WAS GOING TO DIE. THE ETC SYMBOL STARTED TO FLASH AND CAR WOULD ONLY GO 5-10 MPH WHEN THIS HAPPENED I WAS ALREADY DRIVING AT 40MPH WHEN THE CAR JUST STARTED TO SLOW DOWN TO THE 5 MILES AND SPUTTER.

ONLY ONE HEADLIGHT WILL ILLUMINATE, EVEN AFTER REPLACEMENT. THIS IS A COMMONLY REPORTED ISSUE WITH DEFECTIVE TOTALLY INTEGRATED POWER MODULE (TIPM) UNITS ON THIS MODEL. THE EXACT SAME TIPM UNITS HAVE BEEN RECALLED ON OTHER MODELS USING THE PART, BUT NOT FOR THE CALIBER. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE SINCE MORE THAN ONE HEADLIGHT CAN FAIL AT ANY TIME. THE CONSUMER SHOULD NOT HAVE TO PAY FOR A DEFECT LIKE THIS.

THE THROTTLE LIGHT CAME ON AND NOW MY CAR IS WONT PICK UP SPEED ONLY 10MPH AND ITS PUTTERING AND JERKING. SO I REPLACED THE THROTTLE BODY UNIT AND DID A RELEARN ON THE CAR AND ITS STILL ACTING FUNKY. I SAW ITS A RECALL ON THE 2007 DODGE CABLIER OTHER PPL ARE COMPLAINING ABOUT THIS SAME PROBLEM .. ITS VERY UNSAFE TO DRIVE A CAR LIKE THIS WITH MY FAMILY

CLUSTER LIGHTS, BACK LIGHTING FOR CLIMATE CONTROL KNOBS AND TAIL LIGHTS FLICKER THREE TIMES AND THEN GO OFF. THIS HAPPENS ANY TIME WHEN TURNING ON LIGHTS, WHETHER AT VEHICLE START-UP OR WHEN DRIVING DOWN HIGHWAY. MAKES FOR UNSAFE NIGHT TIME DRIVING.

THERE IS A KNOWN ISSUE WITH THE TIPM IN THESE VEHICLES AND THEY HAVE BEEN RECALLED IN OTHER MODELS WITH THE SAME TIPM WHEN THIS MODULE FAILS THE HEADLIGHTS STOP WORKING AND THERE IS NO REPAIR OTHER THEN PAYING DODGE TO FIX IT AND THEY WANT 1000$ THEY HAVE RECALLED OTHER MODELS OF CHRYSLER JEEPS AND DODGES WHICH HAVE THIS SAME MODULE BUT NOT THE CALIBER. I BELIEVE THIS SHOULD BE ADDRESSED. MY LIGHTS FAILED WHEN I WAS DRIVING AT NIGHT. SO THIS IS A MAJOR ISSUE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE PASSENGER SIDE HIGH BEAM LAMP WAS INOPERABLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHO DIAGNOSED THAT THE FUSE BOX AND ELECTRICAL HARNESS FAILED AND NEEDED REPLACEMENT. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO THE DEALER FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 120,000. THE VIN WAS UNAVAILABLE.

WHEN IN CRUISE CONTROL AT BETWEEN 70-75 MPH AND GOING UP A LONG INCLINE (CAJON PASS) THE ELECTRICAL LIGHT COMES ON AND THE CAR QUITS RUNNING, AND TO DATE STARTS AGAIN AFTER LOSING ABOUT 5MPH AFTER SEVERAL HEARTBEATS. THIS HAS BEEN HAPPENING INTERMITTENTLY SINCE THE CAR WAS NEW WITH LESS THAN 6000 MILES ON IT.

AT FIRST, THE SERVICE ENGINE SOON LIGHT WOULD BEGIN FLASHING WHEN I HIT THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL AND I LOST POWER. COULD NOT GO OVER 35 MPH. THEN BY THE TIME I MADE IT OFF THE HIGHWAY, THE LIGHT STAYED FLASHING ALL THE TIME. AND I HAVE NOT BEEN ABLE TO REGAIN PROPER POWER AT ALL. IT USES A TON OF GAS AND WHEN SITTING IN PARK, IF I PUSH THE BREAK PEDAL, THERE IS A CLICKING NOISE UNDER WHERE THE SHIFTER IS LOCATED. WITH LOSING POWER ON THE HIGHWAY, OTHER TRAFFIC AND MYSELF WERE IN DANGER. I LOOKED ONLINE AND MANY MANY PPL HAVE THE SAME ISSUE WITH NO LUCK OF FIXING THE PROBLEM EVEN AFTER HUNDREDS OF DOLLARS AT THE MECHANIC. ALSO, MANY HAVE FILED COMPLAINTS AND HAVE GOTTEN NO WHERE AND VERY NEGATIVE RESPONSES WHEN CALLING DODGE. I DONT HAVE HUNDREDS OF DOLLARS FOR REPAIRS AS I AM...

MY LEFT HEADLIGHT WENT OUT. CHANGING THE BULB DID NOT FIX IT. I WAS TOLD IT WAS AN ELECTRICAL ISSUE THAT WOULD COST $1000. AFTER SEVERAL MONTHS, THE CAR STARTED TO STALL OUT AND HAVE TROUBLE ACCELERATING. WHEN THE CAR STALLS OUT IT WON'T START FOR SEVERAL MINUTES. I WOULD BE DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD AT 60 MPH AND THE CAR WOULD JUST DIE. THE WORST SITUATION IS WHEN I WAS DRIVING UP A HILL AND MY CAR STALLED. I HAD TO STOP IN THE MIDDLE OF THE ROAD AND TURN IT OFF FOR SEVERAL MINUTES BEFORE IT WOULD START AGAIN. I WAS TOLD THIS WAS RELATED TO THE SAME ELECTRICAL ISSUE AND THE TIPM NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. AFTER DOING SOME RESEARCH, I FOUND THAT THIS IS A VERY COMMON PROBLEM FOR THIS CAR. IT WAS A DEFECT IN MANUFACTURING THAT CAUSES A VERY HIGH NUMBER OF THE TIPM...

DRIVER SIDE SEATBELT RELEASES ITSELF WHILE I'M DRIVING, FRONT DRIVER HEADLIGHT DOES NOT TURN ON EVEN THOUGH BULB HAS BEEN CHANGED SEVERAL TIMES TO RULE OUT DAMAGED BULB, REAR TAG LIGHT WON'T TURN ON WHEN VEHICLE IS IN MOTION, REARVIEW MIRROR LIGHT WILL NOT TURN ON.

I WAS DRIVING ON AN INTERSTATE HIGHWAY AT 70 MPH I NOTICED MY SPEEDOMETER STOPPED WORKING I CONTINUED ABOUT THE SAME SPEED( USING MY TACHOMETER) FOR ABOUT 3 MILES AND MY CAR ABRUPTLY LOST ALL POWER ALMOST CAUSING ME TO GET HIT. I MAKE IT OFF THE HIGHWAY TO THE SHOULDER AND THE CAR WILL BARELY IDLE AND HAD NO THROTTLE RESPONSE. THIS WAS A VERY DANGEROUS SITUATION CAUSED BY A FAULTY ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL (THROTTLE BODY) THAT IS A WELL KNOWN ISSUE BY CONSUMERS AND DEALERS

THIS IS MY THIRD TIME THAT THIS CAR HAS NOT STARTED. FOR NO REASON WITH A NEW BATTERY IT WON'T TURN ON AND HAS NO POWER AT ALL. NO POWER TO THE LIGHTS, LOCKS, RADIO OR DASH. NOW IT HAS LOW POWER AND WHEN IT'S TURNED OFF WITH NO KEY IN THE IGNITION IT'S MAKING A TICKING NOISE EVERY 30 SECONDS. I HAVE TO WAIT AGAIN TO GET THIS JUMPED AND I WANT OUT OF THIS VEHICLE. I'VE REPLACED THE BATTERY TWICE IN THIS CAR WITHIN 10 MONTHS AND THE FUSE BOX DOESN'T WORK FOR THE RIGHT HEADLIGHT. I DON'T KNOW HOW TO GET OUT OF THIS CAR WITHOUT THE DEALERSHIP COMING AFTER ME.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. WHILE DRIVING 60 MPH, THE BATTERY WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED AND THE VEHICLE DECELERATED AND STALLED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHO DIAGNOSED THAT THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM WAS INOPERABLE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER AND DEALER WERE NOT NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 10,000.

MY CAR HAS HAD ELECTRICAL ISSUES AND MOST ALL THE CALIBERS DO ALSO HAS TRANSMISSION ISSUES WHICH HAS HAD MULTIPLE COMPLAINTS DODGE REFUSES TO ANSWER OR FIX ANY OF THE CARS OR ISSUE RECALLS THEY HAVE BEEN MADE WELL AWARE IF YOU CHECK FORUMS AS WELL YOU CAN SEE THE DIFFICULT TIMES OTHER PEOPLE HAVE HAD AND THE DANGEROUS SITUATIONS

FOR THE SECOND TIME THIS YEAR, I HAVE LOST ALL HEADLIGHTS, AIR CONDITIONING, ENGINE DYING RANDOMLY WHILE DRIVING, SAFETY LIGHTS FLASHING AND BEEPING ON DASHBOARD. THE TIPM MODULE IS GOING OUT AGAIN. THIS PART IS NEARLY $1,000 AND ONLY A DODGE DEALERSHIP IS ABLE TO FIX THIS ISSUE. THERE ARE ISSUES WORLDWIDE WITH THIS SAME PART IN MULTIPLE DODGE CARS SINCE 2007 AND NOTHING HAS BEEN DONE TO FIX THIS ISSUE

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 65 MPH, THE ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED CONTINUOUSLY. IN ADDITION, THE VEHICLE DECELERATED FROM 65 MPH TO 5 MPH, AND THE VEHICLE LOST POWER. THE VEHICLE WAS ABLE TO RESTART, BUT FAILED TO OPERATE UNTIL MINUTES LATER. THE CONTACT CALLED JOHN ELWAY CHRYSLER AT 970-281-4687 AND WAS ADVISED TO BRING IN THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE AND INFORMED THE CONTACT THAT THE VEHICLE WAS NOT UNDER WARRANTY. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 154,000.

MY HEADLIGHTS WAS NOT WORKING SO I BOUGHT A REPLACEMENT BULB. THE LOW BEAM WAS OUT THE HIGH BEAM WORKS. THE BULB REPLACEMENT DID NOT WORK. I TOOK TO A MECHANIC AND HE LOOKED AT IT AND SAID IT WAS MY FUSE BOX. THE ENTIRE THING NEEDED REPLACED. BEING IN THE BUSINESS HE SAID IT IS A KNOWN PROBLEM WITH THIS MAKE AND MODEL. THE COST TO REPLACE THE ENTIRE THING IS COSTLY SINCE THE IS BASICALLY THE COMPUTER OF THE CAR... THERE IS NO WAY TO FIX WITHOUT REPLACING THE ENTIRE FUSE BOX. THIS FUSE BOX CONTROLS A LOT OF THINGS THAT COULD BE SAFETY ISSUES AND LIGHTING TO ME IS VERY IMPORTANT. I HAVE OWNED MANY CARS AND HAVE NEVER HAD TO REPLACE A FUSE BOX. I CHECKED FOR RECALLS AND THERE WAS NONE. I BEGAN LOOKING ONLINE AND THE AMOUNT OF PEOPLE WHO HAVE THIS MAKE AND...

DRIVER SIDE HEADLIGHT (LOW BEAM) STOPPED WORKING. HIGH BEAMS WORK. CHANGED OUT THE HEADLIGHT WITH NO FIX.

CAR STOPPED WHILE DRIVING SEVERAL TIMES AND THEN WOULD T START AT ALL. REPLACED FUSE AND IT RAN FOR A LITTLE BIT AND THEN WOULDN'T ACCELERATE OVER 40. AFTER GETTING BACK HOME ENGINE WOULDN'T START AT ALL OR IT WOULD TAKE ALMOST 30 MINUTES TO TRY AND IT WOULD SOMETIMES FIRE UP. NOW IT WILL NOT START AT ALL. STARTER IS NEW AND THE ONLY OTHER THING WE CAN THINK IS MAYBE ELECTRICAL. THAT AND THE LACK OF ACCELERATION ARE MAJOR PROBLEMS AND IT NEEDS TO BE ADDRESSED!

MY CAR HORN, LIGHTS, POWER WINDOWS WILL NOT WORK AND THE CAR WILL NOT START THE CAR STOPPED WITHOUT WARNING AND MY LIGHTS WHEN OFF. NOW THE CAR DOES NOT TURN ON AT ALL AFTER GETTING A TOW TRUCK TO MY MECHANIC HE STATED THAT MY POWER TRAIN MODULE NEEDED TO BE RE PROGRAM BUT HE COULD NOT DO IT SO I HAD TO GET ANOTHER TOW TRUCK TO TAKE THE CAR TO THE DEALER WHICH TOLD ME I HAVE TO REPLACE MY TIPM @ $1700. PLUS TAX. TOO EXPENSIVE THIS S/B COVER BY DODGE THIS WAS SCARY FOR MY CAR TO STOPPED WHILE I WAS DRIVING I COULD HAVE KILL MYSELF AND SOMEONE ELSE I ALREADY PAID OVER $200. IN TOW TRUCKS

THE TIPM HAS CAUSED ME TO LOSE MY DASHBOARD LIGHTS, THROW OUT ERROR CODES SAYING KEY IN IGNITION AFTER IT WAS REMOVED WHICH THEN PREVENTED ME FROM LOCKING DOOR IN SHADY NEIGHBORHOOD. DRAINED BATTERY OVERNIGHT SO WAS STRANDED FOR HOURS BEFORE AAA COULD COME. NOW THE LEFT LOW BEAM HEADLIGHT ONLY IS OUT. BULB REPLACED WITHOUT ANY AFFECT. ONLINE CHATTER SEEMS TO INDICATE THESE TIPM WAS POORLY DESIGNED AND ALL WILL FAIL EVENTUALLY.

MY CAR STARTED TO STALL A MONTH AGO AFTER GETTING A NEW BATTERY PLACED INTO MY VEHICLE. THE ETC (ENGINE THROTTLE CONTROL) LIGHT WOULD POP UP ON MY DASH. I COULD NO LONGER ACCELERATE. SO ONCE I WENT TO A MECHANIC SHOP, THEY READ THE CODES AND IT SAID I NEEDED MY CAMSHAFT POSITION CENSOR FIXED. PROBLEM OCCURRED AGAIN DAYS LATER. THEY THEN SAID IT WAS THE THROTTLE BODY, THEY PUT IN A NEW ONE. THE PROBLEM OCCURRED AGAIN, MY CAR ACTUALLY STALLED WHILE I WAS TURNING IN A INTERSECTION. THAT IS DANGEROUS, ESPECIALLY WHEN MY DAUGHTER IS IN THE CAR. I WENT BACK AND THEY HAD TO KEEP MY CAR FOR A WEEK BECAUSE THEY SAID IT WAS MY ECM AND THEY HAD TO ORDER THE PART. I GOT MY CAR BACK ON THURSDAY JUNE 29TH, 2017 AND MY CAR STALLED AGAIN ON JUNE 30TH. I AM QUITE FRUSTRATED...

WHILE DRIVING THE CAR WOULD LOOSE ALL POWER AND ENGINE WOULD DIE. IF I SLOWED DOWN TO MAKE A TURN, CAR WOULD DO SAME THING, LOOSE POWER AND ENGINE WOULD DIE. IT WOULD ALSO HAVE TROUBLE STARTING. WOULDN'T STAY RUNNING. IN SCHOOL PICKUP LINE, CAR WOULD LOOSE ALL POWER AND ENGINE WOULD DIE AS SOON AS GAS PEDDLE WAS PUSHED ON. THIS WOULD HAPPEN ON THE MAIN HIGHWAY, CITY ROADS, SCHOOL PICKUP/ DROP OFF LINE, MAKING TURNS, AND WHEN FIRST STARTING CAR. IT WOULD ALSO DO THESE THINGS WHEN SLOWING DOWN AND ACCELERATING. I HAD THIS PROBLEM WITH THE CAR FOR NEARLY A MONTH, BEFORE THE CAR COMPLETELY SHUT DOWN AND WOULDN'T START. ONE OF THE WIRES CONNECTED TO FUEL PUMP BURNT THROUGH THE HOUSING. WITH THE FUEL PUMP BEING IN THE GAS TANK DON'T YOU THINK THERE COULD HAVE BEEN AN EXPLOSION.

VEHICLE HORN HAS BECOME INOPERABLE AT 59663 MILES. HORN TESTS OK. NO ELECTRICAL SIGNAL WHEN HORN BUTTON IS DEPRESSED ON STEERING WHEEL. HORN HAS STOPPED FUNCTIONING AS A SIGNAL THE DOOR LOCKS HAVE BEEN ACTIVATED WITH THE REMOTE CONTROL. HORN IS INOPERABLE WHETHER DRIVING CAR OR STATIONARY.

BAD PCM. I'M DRIVING WITH MY DAUGHTER IN THE CAR AND IT JUST SHUTS OFF ALMOST CAUSING THE PERSON DRIVING BEHIND ME TO HIT US. SO FAR I'VE REPACED THE BATTERY, ALTERNATOR, CABLES, AND NOW PCM. IF I COULD AFFORD TO GET ANOTHER CAR I WOULD IN A HEARTBEAT. I FEEL SO UNSAFE DRIVING THIS CAR.

RT HEADLIGHT NOT WORKING. I REPLACED BULB BUT LATER FOUND OUT THAT MY FUSE BOX NEEDED TO BE REPLACED . APPARENTLY THIS IS A COMMON ISSUE. LIGHT ALL OF A SUDDEN STOPPED WORKING. IT LIMITS MY VISIBILITY AT NIGHT AT POSSES A THREAT TO DRIVERS WHO DON'T SEE ME WHILE DRIVING AT NIGHT.

TAKATA RECALL- MY AIR BAG LIGHT STAYS ON ALL THE TIME, ALSO I HAD TO REPLACE THE ELECTRONIC CONTROL MODULE, IT WAS COMPLETELY FULL OF CORROSION. ALL OF THE FRONT AND BACK SUSPENTION HAD TO BE REPLACED, ALL CONTROL ARMS UPPER AND LOWER, STRUTS, THE WHOLE THING. THE TRANSMISSION WILL NOT SHIFT PROPERLY, CAUSING THE ENGINE TO STALL. I HAVE HAD THE SUSPENTION FIXED, AND THE ELECTRICAL REPLACED. THE TRANSMISSION FLUID CHANGED BUT MECHANIC COULD NOT FIND OUT WHAT THE PROBLEM IS. IT DOES NOT SHIFT PROPERLY WHEN ON HIGHWAY DRIVING, AND WILL NOT DOWN SHIFT WHEN STOPPING, CAR STALLS OUT. THE ELECTRICAL MODULE WOULD NOT PUT OUT ENOUGH POWER TO RUN THE LIGHTS, WIPERS, FAN OR RADIO. THIS CAR IS A REAL PIECE OF CRAP, DODGE SHOULD BE ASHAMED OF THEMSELVES FOR EVEN PUTTING IT ON THE MARKET. WE WANT ACTION, FOR WHAT WE PAID FOR THIS JUNK.

ON NOV. 22, 2016 I WAS DRIVING TO WORK AT 6:00 AM. MY CALIBER STARTED MAKING A HISSING NOISE, AFTER ABOUT 2 MINUTES OF THIS THE ENGINE SHUT OFF AND I LOST ALL ELECTRIC POWER. THE CAR WAS TOWED TO THE SHOP AND THE STARTER WAS REPLACED. 2 WEEKS LATER THE SAME THING HAPPENED. THIS TIME NOTHING WAS REPLACED, DUE TO THE CAR STARTING AT THE GARAGE. AGAIN ON DEC. 20 THE SAME THING WITH THE EXCEPTION OF I WAS ON MY WAY HOME. THE STARTED WAS AGAIN REPLACED. THIS RECURRED ON JAN 9, 2017. THE STARTED WAS REPLACED AGAIN. IT HAPPENED AGAIN ON JAN. 20, AGAIN THE STARTER HAS BEEN REPLACED. ACCORDING TO THE MECHANIC, THEY CANNOT FIND ANYTHING ELSE WRONG. THIS IS A SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUE. LUCKILY I HAVEN'T BEEN DRIVING AT A HIGH RATE OF SPEED, BUT IF THIS WOULD OCCUR AT 65 OR 70 MPH IT...

I'VE OWNED THE CAR SINCE NEW, RECENTLY WE HAD A PROBLEM WITH A DEAD BATTERY. AFTER REPLACING THE BATTERY, THE CAR WOULD NOT GO MORE THAN 20 MILES PER HOUR AND WE HAD ENGINE FAULT CODES. ONCE WE CLEARED OUT THE CODES, THE CAR RAN FINE. HOWEVER, WE NOW HAD A FRONT HEADLIGHT THAT WAS OUT. REPLACING THE BULB DIDN'T WORK. THE ONLY WAY TO GET THE FRONT HEADLIGHTS BOTH ON WAS TO TURN ON THE HIGH BEAMS. AFTER DOING SOME RESEARCH FROM A DODGE DEALERSHIP AND ON THE INTERNET, I HAVE FOUND THE ISSUE IS WIDESPREAD AND DUE TO POOR DESIGN OF THE FUSE BOX ON THESE VEHICLES, ALSO KNOWN AS THE TIPM. I BELIEVE THE DRAIN ON THE BATTERY WAS CAUSED BY THE POOR DESIGN OF THE TIPM AND WITH THAT ONE INCIDENT, STARTED THE FAILURE PROCESS. THIS VEHICLE HAS 150,000 MILES ON IT AND HAS BEEN WELL...

TIPM MODULE DOES NOT POWER LIGHTS TO SEE WHILE DRIVING AND LED TO POWER DRAINS. LED TO COMPLETE LOSS OF POWER ON HIGHWAY. *TR

ENGINE THROTTLE CONTROL LIGHT CAME ON AFTER PUMPING GAS, VEHICLE VIBRATED. LIGHT CAME ON INTERMITTENTLY ON TRIP HOME, WOULD SLOW SPEED DOWN AND IT WOULD GO OFF. EXITED INTERSTATE, CAME TO FULL STOP, ACCELERATED TO GO, AND CAR VIBRATED AND ALMOST STALLED AS PULLING OUT. DROVE VEHICLE FOR TWO MORE DAYS - LIGHT CAME ON AND WOULD VIBRATE - ALMOST STALLED IN 2 BUSY INTERSECTIONS. PREVIOUS RECALL ON 25K 2007 DODGE CALIBERS - MINE NOT INCLUDED IN RECALL. UNABLE TO GET AN APPT AT DODGE DEALER FOR A WEEK. DECIDED THIS WAS A SAFETY ISSUE AND DID NOT DRIVE. ISSUE HAPPENED WHILE DRIVING AND STATIONARY, ON HIGHWAY AT HIGH SPEEDS AND ON CITY STREET, TURNING. ISSUE CAUSED THE VEHICLE TO NOT GO NORMAL SPEEDS - WAS UNABLE TO GO POSTED SPEED LIMIT. CONTACTED DODGE/CHRYSLER RECALL - THEY WILL NOT ADMIT THIS IS A WIDESPREAD ISSUE. NUMEROUS VEHICLE OWNERS ARE RUNNING...

DRIVER SIDE HEADLIGHT DOES NOT WORK. REPLACE LIGHT TWICE, NEITHER ONE WORKS. HIGH BEAM WORKS, BUT NOT LOW BEAM. HAVE BEEN TOLD NEED TO REPLACE TIPM (MAIN FUSE BLOCK). APPEARS TO BE TYPICAL PROBLEM WITH THIS CAR.

MY CAR WILL AS I'M DRIVING CUT OFF LOSE ALL POWER STARTS SHAKING JERKING AND WON'T ABOVE 5TO7 MILES AN HOUR HAPPENS ALL TIME DRIVING WITH MY KIDS FROM SCHOOL IT DOES ON FREEWAY VERY UNSAFE ALMOST GOT REAR-ENDED A COUPLE TIMES VERY SCARY

TURN SIGNALS START TO FAIL, EVEN WITH THE FAULTY BULB REPLACED NEWLY REPLACED BULB DOES NOT WORK. BROUGHT THE CAR TO THE DEALERSHIP AND DIAGNOSED THE TIPM (TOTALLY INTEGRATED POWER MODULE) IS FAULTY. CHECKED THE INTERNET AND FORUMS FOR SIMILAR ISSUES OTHER OWNERS HAVE WORSE ISSUES SUCH AS HEADLIGHTS RANDOMLY GOING OUT, STALLING AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS, WINDSHIELD WIPERS FAILING... THAT THEY ARE ENCOUNTERING DUE TO A FAULTY TIPM WHICH CAN BE A SAFETY ISSUE. THE CLOCKSPRING FAILURE CAUSES THE AIRBAG WARNING LIGHT TO COME ON WHICH SIGNIFIES THAT THE AIRBAG WILL NOT WORK WHEN IT NEEDS TO. THE CRUISE CONTROL SYSTEM INTERMITTENTLY WORKS WHICH IS ALSO AFFECTED BY THE CLOCK SPRING. BOTH LOWER CONTROL ARMS BUSHINGS (LEFT AND RIGHT) HAVE BEEN REPLACED TWICE DUE TO WEAR. SEEMS EXCESSIVE WEAR BETWEEN 58K AND 80K MILES WITH MOSTLY HIGHWAY DRIVING ON SMOOTH ROADS.

DRIVING ALONG TEMP SENSOR FOR WHAT I FOUND OUT LATER WAS FOR TRANSMISSION STARTS FLICKERING MAKING THE CAR GO 10 MILES AN HOUR GET TO STOP LIGHT CAR SHUTS OFF HAVE TO TURN KEY OFF AND ON AND HOPE I DON'T GET HIT FROM BEHIND THIS HAPPENS OFF AND ON BUT NOW HAS BECOME CONSTANT CAN'T EVEN DRIVE ANYWHERE THEN TO TOP IT OFF I FIND OUT ITS A COMMON COMPLAINT AND FIVE HUNDRED DOLLARS WHO CAN AFFORD IT I WILL NEVER OWN ANOTHER CAR THAT HAS THE T.I.P.M. TO DELICATE AND FROM WHAT I GATHER A KNOWN PROBLEM TO DODGE HELP ME FOOT THE COST SO I DON'T LOSE MY JOB OH I WAS COMING TO A STOP AT A RED LIGHT IN THE CITY

THE RADIO, PASSENGER SIDE HEADLIGHT AND VARIOUS OTHER PROBLEMS WHICH A MECHANIC HAS TOLD ME ARE CONTROLLED BY THE TPIM ARE NOT WORKING ! THE HEADLIGHT SHUT OFF WHILE I WAS DRIVING ON THE INTERSTATE! ACCORDING TO EVERYTHING I'M READING, THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM FOR MULTIPLE YEARS AND MODELS OF DAIMLER/ CHRYSLER PRODUCTS. I HAVE TRIED TO REPLACE THE HEADLIGHT TWICE AND IT'S NOT BROKEN. THIS SHOULD BE RECALLED IMMEDIATELY ! IT'S THE POOR ENGINEERING DESIGN OF THE TPIM HOUSING! THE HOUSING HAS MULTIPLE VENT HOLES IN IT AND IT IS LOCATED IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT THAT IS OFTEN EXPOSED TO MOISTURE! PLEASE HELP, I DO NO HAVE $1000.00 TO PAY CHRYSLER FOR THEIR POOR ENGINEERING OF THE CAR! THANKS