2007 DODGE CALIBER Electrical System Problems

DRIVER SIDE HEADLAMP HAS GONE OUT DUE TO A TOTAL INTERGRATED POWER MODULE FAILURE. *TR

HAD TO REPLACE THE ALTERNATOR .THE CHARGING LIGHT WAS COMING ON.NOW THE HEAD LIGHTS ARE NOT WORKING REPLACED BULBS STILL NOT WORKING NOT GETTING POWER TIPM ISSUE. *TR

I HAVE 2007 DODGE CALIBER AND WAS DRIVING THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM WAS MAKE THE CAR SHUT DOWN ALL MY LIGHTS AND SIGNAL LIGHTS WAS NOT WORKING. I WAS ON THE EXPRESSWAY AND MY SIGNAL LIGHTS OR NOTHING WAS WORKING. *TR

THE DRIVERS SIDE HEADLIGHT IS OUT. THE BULB WAS REPLACED AND IT STILL DOES NOT WORK. I WAS TOLD THAT THE TIPM NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. I WAS TOLD THAT THIS IS NOT A SAFETY ISSUE. IT IS A SAFETY ISSUE FOR ONLY HAVING ONE HEAD LIGHT. I GUESS WHEN I RECEIVE A CITATION FOR ONLY ONE HEADLIGHT THEN THE CITATION WILL BE MAILED TO DODGE FOR REIMBURSEMENT. *TR

THE CAR WOULD NOT START (LIGHTS WORKED, BUT ENGINE WOULD NOT TURN OVER). AFTER REPLACING THE THROTTLE CABLE AND BOX, AS WELL AS SOME BROKEN WIRING, THE CAR STILL WOULD NOT START. THE MECHANIC THEN TOWED THE VEHICLE TO A DODGE DEALERSHIP, WHERE THE COMPUTER WAS RESET. THE CAR RAN FOR ANOTHER WEEK AFTER IT WAS FIRST "FIXED," AND THEN AGAIN DID NOT START (SAME PROBLEM AS BEFORE). ADDITIONALLY, THE LIGHT TO INDICATE THAT THE AIR BAGS WERE NOT FUNCTIONING TURNED ON PRIOR TO THE VEHICLE NOT STARTING. THIS IS MORE FRUSTRATING BECAUSE WE HAVE HAD EXTENSIVE ISSUES WITH THIS CAR (REPLACED ALL TIE RODS, BUSHINGS, CONTROL ARMS, HAVE A BROKEN DOOR FROM THE HINGE BREAKING, AND HAD MULTIPLE TIRES WEARING UNEVENLY DUE TO THE CAR'S SUSPENSION PROBLEMS) ALREADY, AND HAVE SUNK WELL OVER $6000 IN REPAIRS THIS YEAR ALONE. *TR

THE CAR WILL LOSE ALL POWER WHEN DRIVING, ALMOST AT A COMPLETE STOP. THE FIRST 2 TIMES IT HAPPENED WERE AT NIGHT (THE SECOND DURING A COMPLETE DOWNPOUR) AND SINCE I LOSE ALL POWER, THE HAZARD LIGHTS WON'T EVEN WORK SO I HAVE TO GET OUT OF THE CAR TO ALERT OTHER DRIVERS SO THAT THEY WON'T HIT ME!! SO DANGEROUS!! THE FIRST "FIX" WAS TO DO A FULL COMPUTER SYSTEM RE-FLASH ($300). THE SECOND "FIX" WAS TO REPLACE THE TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE ($600). THE THIRD TIME THIS HAPPENED WAS 3 DAYS AFTER THE SECOND "FIX" AS I'D DRIVEN NOT EVEN 100 FEET FROM A PARKING SPOT, I TURNED THE VOLUME UP ON MY RADIO AND THE CAR DIED! THE 3RD "FIX" WILL BE UPWARDS OF $1500!!! DODGE KNOWS ABOUT THIS PROBLEM. IN FACT, IT IS THE FAULTY PLACEMENT OF THE TIPM THAT HAS CAUSED THIS!! IT WAS PLACED IN...

YOU CAN TURN THE CAR OFF BY BUMPING THE KEY/IGNITION WITH YOUR KNEE. LET'S SAY YOU ARE ON A LONG DRIVE AND SHIFT IN YOUR SEAT. IF YOU KNEE PUSHES INTO THE KEY, THE ENGINE WITH TURN OFF AND YOU'LL LOSE POWER. SEEMS TO BE MORE PRONE TO HAPPEN TO TALLER PEOPLE, AS THEIR KNEES ARE CLOSER TO THE IGNITION. ON THREE OCCASIONS THIS HAPPENED UNTIL I FIGURED OUT HOW IT HAPPENED AND AM NOW CAREFUL TO NOT BUMP IT. THE FIRST TIME WAS ON A CITY STREET AND THE SECOND TWO WERE ON AN INTERSTATE. IT CAN BE QUITE SCARY TO LOSE YOUR POWER STEERING AND POWER BRAKES, AND I FEEL VERY LUCKY TO HAVE BEEN ON A LONG, STRAIGHT SECTION OF INTERSTATE WITH LITTLE TRAFFIC. *TR

HAVE HAD SPORADIC ELECTRICAL ISSUES FOR THE LAST FEW YEARS, CHALKED IT UP TO NORMAL WEAR & TEAR. AFTER LOOKING AT OTHER TESTIMONIES ONLINE, BEGINNING TO REALIZE THE ISSUES I'VE HAD ARE SIMILAR TO THOSE OF OTHER CALIBER OWNERS. JUST REPLACED THE ALTERNATOR IN JUNE 2014 AND NOW CAR IS SHUTTING OFF WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD. CHECK ENGINE LIGHT HAS BEEN ON FOR 3 WEEKS AND WILL RANDOMLY NOT BE ON FOR A SERIES OF DRIVES ONLY TO COME BACK ON AGAIN. DASHBOARD LIGHTS DO NOT COME ON ALL THE TIME, I'D SAY MORE OFTEN THAN NOT NIGHT DRIVING IS DONE WITH NO DASHBOARD LIGHTS. I CHANGE HEADLIGHTS & TAILLIGHTS FREQUENTLY. ABOUT TO HEAD TO AUTOZONE NOW TO HAVE IT HOOKED UP TO DIAGNOSTIC MACHINE TO SEE IF ANY CODES COME UP FOR CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. CHRYSLER NEEDS TO DO A RECALL ASAP OR THERE WILL BE SEVERAL PEOPLES...

MY DRIVERS SIDE DRIVING LIGHT WAS OUT SO I BOUGHT A NEW BULB. THAT DIDN'T FIX THE PROBLEM SO I LOOKED ONLINE AND SAW EVERYONE WAS HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM AND IT SEEMS TO BE THE TIPM WHICH IS AROUND 1000.00 TO FIX. IF WE ARE ALL HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM I WOULD THINK IT'S SOMETHING THAT DODGE SHOULD BE TAKING CARE OF NOT THE CONSUMER! *TR

TPIM MALFUNCTION, AFFECTING HEADLIGHTS AND DASHBOARD LIGHTING. *TR

SPEEDOMETER WENT FROM 70 TO 0 THAN CAR DIED LOSING ALL POWER AND WOULD NOT RESTART. THIS PROBLEM WAS DIAGNOSED AS THE STARTER THIS IS THE FIFTH STARTER IN 1 YEAR. *JS

I HAVE HAD NUMEROUS PROBLEMS WITH THIS VEHICLE WITH THE TIPM (TOTAL INTEGRATED POWER MODULE.) FIRST THE A/C BLEW, THEN THE ALTERNATOR BLEW, THEN THE WINDOWS STARTED MALFUNCTIONING. NOW THE CAR SLOWS ITSELF ON THE INTERSTATE AND WILL NOT MAINTAIN SPEED. THE LOW BEAM HEADLIGHT ON THE DRIVERS SIDE WILL NOT FUNCTION PROPERLY EITHER. THIS CAR HAS MAJOR ELECTRICAL ISSUES AND APPARENTLY IS A COMMON PROBLEM WITH THIS MAKE AND MODEL OF CAR. THERE NEEDS TO BE A RECALL ON THIS VEHICLE. *TR

MY CAR STARTED MAKING A NOISE AND IDLING HIGH LAST YEAR. IT STARTED CUTTING ITSELF OFF AND EVENTUALLY IT WOULDN'T START. I REPLACED THE ALTERNATOR AND BATTERY. NOW LESS THAN A YEAR LATER 2014, THE LOW LIGHTS DON'T WORK AND IT IS STARTING TO MAKE THE SAME NOISE AND CUT ITSELF OFF. NOW I'M BEING TOLD ITS THE TOTAL INTEGRATED POWER MODULE. *TR

A COUPLE OF WEEKS AGO I WAS ON MY WAY TO WORK AND TURNED ON MY SIGNAL LIGHT TO MAKE A TURN. WHEN I TURNED MY SIGNAL LIGHT ON I NOTICED THAT THE INTERIOR OVERHEAD LIGHT WENT ON. I FOUND IT STRANGE AND THOUGHT MY DOOR MAY HAVE BEEN OPENED. A FEW DAYS LATER ON MY WAY TO WORK THE SIGNAL LIGHTS WERE NO LONGER WORKING. THIS IS WHERE MY SERIOUS CONCERNS BEGAN. I HAVE A 30 MINUTE COMMUTE TO WORK AND SWITCH LANES OR MAKE TURNS QUITE OFTEN EN ROUTE. IT GETS WORSE. AFTER A LONG DAY AT WORK I RAN OUT TO MY VEHICLE TO AVOID GETTIN SOAKED IN THE RAIN AND WHEN I ATTEMPTED TO TURN ON MY WIPERS I WAS INFURIATED TO FIND OUT THEY WERE NO LONGER WORKING EITHER. NEEDLESS TO SAY THE VEHICLE IS PARKED IN MY DRIVEWAY. FOG LIGHTS DON'T WORK, TURN SIGNALS,...

MY WIFE AND DAUGHTER WERE DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY WHEN THE CAR WITH NO WARNING SHUT OFF ALMOST CAUSING AN ACCIDENT THIS IS NOT THE FIRST TIME THE CAR HAS GAVE US PROBLEMS WITH SHUTTING OFF WHILE DRIVING OR NOT STARTING AT ALL, THE LAST INCIDENT THE CAR WOULD NOT START AND I WAS OUT OF TOWN SO SHE HAD IT TOWED TO THE DEALERSHIP AND THE SAID THERE WAS A MOUSE BEST UNDER THE AIR FILTER CAUSING IT NOT TO START, I AM A CERTIFIED AUTOMOTIVE AND DIESEL TECHNICIAN I SERVICE THIS CAR FREQUENTLY AND THERE HAS NEVER BEEN SIGNS OF MOUSE INTRUSION THIS LAST INCIDENT WAS A LITTLE OVER A WEEK AGO WHEN THE CAR STALLED AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS SO I TRAILERED THE CAR TO THE SHOP I AM EMPLOYED WITH AND DIAGNOSED IT MYSELF , I FOUND SEVERAL RECALLS ON THE TIPM MODULE FOR THE 07 DODGE...

WHILE DRIVING HOME FROM THE AIRPORT ON THE HIGHWAY, MY CAR SHUT DOWN UNEXPECTEDLY. MY ELECTRONIC THROTTLE LIGHT ALONG WITH MY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. MY POWER STEERING AND POWER BRAKES SEEMED NOT TO FUNCTION AS I HAD TO MUSCLE THE CAR TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. THANK GOODNESS IT WAS LATE AT NIGHT AND TRAFFIC WAS AT A MINIMUM. THE CAR SPUTTERED SO BAD IT SHUT DOWN ON THE ROAD AFTER I PULLED OVER. AFTER ABOUT 15 MINUTES, I STARTED THE CAR AND LIMPED IT HOME. COULDN'T GET THE CAR TO DO MORE THAN 10MPH. USED MY FLASHERS THE ENTIRE WAY HOME. *TR

WATER GOT INTO TAIL LIGHT, FROZE AND MADE RIGHT TURN SIGNAL INOPERABLE. *TR

DROVE HOME FROM WORK PARKED MY CAR NEXT MORNING IT WOULDN'T START. HAD BATTERY POWER AND CRANKED WHEN I TURNED THE KEY BUT WOULD NOT KICK OVER TO START. TOWED TO MECHANIC. HE SAID THERE WASN'T ANYTHING WRONG WITH IT, HE CLEANED THE SPARK PLUGS, WEATHER WARMED UP AND CAR WORKED AGAIN. THIS HAPPENED TWICE, HE STATED I NEEDED TO TAKE IT TO DODGE DEALERSHIP TO HAVE THE COMPUTER REPROGRAMMED (THAT THIS WAS A COMMON PROBLEM FOR MY CAR TYPE) TWO DAYS LATER, DRIVING TO WORK ALL THE LIGHTS WENT ON AND THE STEERING FROZE, NOT ABLE TO TURN LEFT OR RIGHT. I WAS ABLE TO EXIT AND PARK CAR WITHOUT INCIDENT NOW HAVING IT TOWED TO DEALERSHIP. *TR

THE FIRST SIGNS OF A PROBLEM WERE A CLICKING SOUND WHEN TURNING THE STEERING WHEEL. IT DID NOT HAPPEN EVERY TIME, AND I DID NOTHING ABOUT IT UNTIL DECEMBER, WHEN A PORTION OF A STRAP WITH ELECTRICAL WIRE EMBEDDED BEGAN TO PROTRUDE FROM THE UPPER STEERING COLUMN. IT SOON BEGAN TO BE A NUISANCE AS THE PORTION GREW LONGER AND WOULD CATCH ON THE STEERING POSITION ADJUSTMENT KNOB. I GREW ALARMED WHEN THE AIRBAG LIGHT CAME ON, AND TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP. THEY SAID IT WAS A BROKEN CLOCKSPRING, AND THEY HAD TO ORDER THE PART. IT COST ME OVER $300 TO GET THIS REPAIRED, AND NOW I SEE TOYOTA IS DOING A RECALL FOR THIS EXACT SAME THING, A SPIRAL CABLE ASSEMBLY THAT BECOMES DAMAGED FROM TURNING THE STEERING WHEEL. IT IS A POOR DESIGN. TOYOTA IS REPLACING THIS WITH A BETTER PART, BUT I DO NOT THINK...

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING VARIOUS SPEEDS THE DRIVERS SIDE HEADLIGHT FAILED. THE CONTACT MENTIONED THAT THE FAILURE OCCURRED INTERMITTENTLY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A PRIVATE MECHANIC WHO DIAGNOSED THAT THE ENTIRE COMPUTER NEEDED TO BE RESET. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 115,000 AND THE CURRENT MILEAGE WAS 117,000.

DRIVING ON INTERSTATE 55 BACK TO PEORIA,IL . CAR INTERIOR AND DASH LIGHTS FLASHING AND SURGING. SMELT SOMETHING BURNING. CAR DIED, LUCKY GOT TO SHOULDER OF FREEWAY. HAD IT TOWED FROM PONTIAC, IL. TO FIRESTONE IN PEORIA,IL. *TR DIAGNOSIS, HOLE IN A/C COMPRESSOR (POSSIBLE PISTONS BLEW THROUGH CASING), SHORTED STARTER, FRIED BATTERY

THIS HAS HAPPENED MANY TIMES BEFORE YESTERDAY. WHILE DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY, THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON, AND THE CAR GO INTO A "LIMP" MODE (VERY LITTLE POWER), AND EVEN AT FULL PEDAL, IT SLOWLY SLOWS DOWN. HAVING HAD IT HAPPEN SEVERAL TIMES BEFORE, I LEARNED TO PULL OVER, AND SHUT OFF THE CAR, AND LET IT SET FOR A FEW MINUTES. SOMETIMES TIMES THIS IS NOT EASY, OR SAFE TO DO. THEN IT IS HARD TO RESTART, BUT WILL DRIVE SOMEWHAT BETTER. THIS ALLOWS ME TO GET TO A PLACE THAT I CAN SHUT IT OFF FOR AN EXTENDED AMOUNT OF TIME (1/2 HOUR), AND THEN IT RUNS MORE LIKE NORMAL, BUT THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT STAY ON FOR SEVERAL DAYS. AFTER THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT GOES OUT, IT IS RUNNING NORMAL AGAIN UNTIL THE NEXT TIME. SO FAR, THIS HAS NOT CAUSED AN ACCIDENT, BUT I'M SURE...

HEAD LIGHT WENT OUT, AFTER CHECKING THE BULB AND FOUND IT GOOD. DID SOME RESEARCH AND FOUND I NEED TO INVEST $1200.00 TO REPLACE THE TIPM. HEAD LIGHTS ARE A REQUIRED SERVICE ON ANY AUTOMOBILE TO DRIVE ON PUBLIC HIGHWAY. WHEN IS DODGE GOING TO TAKE RESPONSIBILITY AND ISSUE A RECALL AND SOLUTION TO FIX THIS PROBLEM BEFORE ANY LOSS OF LIFE IS INCURRED. BY THEIR KNOWING THIS PROBLEM EXISTS THEY ARE OPEN A LARGE LAW SUIT WHEN AN INJURY OCCURS. *TR

I SEE THAT GM HAS FINALLY ISSUED A RECALL FOR THEIR ENGINES STALLING AND I'M WONDERING IF CHRYSLER EVER WILL BE HELD ACCOUNTABLE FOR THE SAME THING? THERE 2007 DODGE CALIBER STALLS WITH A FLASHING LEFT LIGHT, WHICH HAS BEEN REPORTED TO CHRYSLER, THE NHTSA, AND TRANSPORT CANADA ON NUMEROUS OCCASIONS BUT NOTHING IS EVER DONE ABOUT IT. CONSUMERS ARE JUST LEFT TO FEND FOR THEMSELVES AND IT'S COMPLETELY UNACCEPTABLE. *TR

ALL FOUR TURNING SIGNALS AND EMERGENCY FLASHERS STOPPED WORKING. TIPM ERROR.

I WAS DRIVING AND MY PASSENGER LOW-BEAM HEADLIGHT WENT OUT, SO I WENT AND BOUGHT A NEW HEADLIGHT, UPON INSTALLING IT, IT STILL DIDN'T WORK, BUT THE HIGH BEAM DID. TOOK IT TO DODGE TO SEE IF THEY COULD FIGURE IT OUT AND WAS TOLD IT'S A KNOWN ISSUE WITH CALIBERS AND CERTAIN JEEPS, THE TIPM WENT BAD ON IT AND IT WOULD BE ALMOST $1000 TO REPAIR IT, FOR A KNOWN ISSUE THAT DODGE KNOWS ABOUT BUT HASN'T BEEN RECALLED! 2 WEEKS LATER, MY HIGHBEAM EVEN WENT OUT ON THE PASSENGER SIDE, SO NOW THE CAR IS SITTING PARKED, UNABLE TO DRIVE WITH IMPROPER LIGHTING & TIPM PROBLEMS! *TR

CAR WILL RANDOMLY START SHAKING LIKE THERE IS BARELY ANY POWER. I HAVE HAD TO REPLACE THE ALTERNATOR TWICE. NUMEROUS THROTTLE ISSUES THAT NUMEROUS AUTO SERVICE SHOPS WERE NOT ABLE TO FULLY TAKE CARE OF. WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS AT A STOP AND THE ACCELERATOR WAS PRESSED, LIGHTLY AND NORMALLY THE CAR WOULD ACCELERATE INAPPROPRIATELY AND KIND OF JERK FORWARD. IN ADDITION, WHEN TURNING AND THE ACCELERATOR IS PRESSED NORMALLY THE CAR WOULD SEEM TO LOSE POWER AND SEEM TO GLIDE INTO THE TURN AND THEN JERK FORWARD. THESE THROTTLE ISSUES WERE NEVER FULLY EXPLAINED OR FIXED. AFTER A WHILE THE CAR DASH STARTED FLASHING A RED ELECTRICAL BOLT AND THE CAR WOULD SHUTTER AND SHAKE AND LOSE ALL POWER. INITIALLY, WHEN THIS OCCURRED I WAS ABLE TO JUST TURN THE CAR OFF AND WAIT AND THEN TURN IT BACK ON AND IT WOULD FUNCTION FOR A WHILE. ALSO, IF...

THE LOW BEAM HEADLIGHTS WENT OUT AND BOTH BULBS ARE KNOWN GOOD. ITS THE TIPM TOTAL INTEGRATED POWER MODULE THAT'S THE CULPRIT AND IT COSTS $900.00 TO REPLACE. I'M DEMANDING A TOTAL RECALL ON ALL DODGE CALIBERS. *TR

THE VEHICLE HAD NUMEROUS THROTTLE ISSUES AND AIR CONDITIONING ISSUES THAT NUMEROUS AUTO SERVICE SHOPS WERE NOT ABLE TO FULLY TAKE CARE OF. WHEN THE VEHICLE WAS AT A STOP AND THE ACCELERATOR WAS PRESSED, LIGHTLY AND NORMALLY THE CAR WOULD ACCELERATE INAPPROPRIATELY AND KIND OF JERK FORWARD. IN ADDITION, WHEN TURNING AND THE ACCELERATOR IS PRESSED NORMALLY THE CAR WOULD SEEM TO LOSE POWER AND SEEM TO GLIDE INTO THE TURN AND THEN JERK FORWARD. THESE THROTTLE ISSUES WERE NEVER FULLY EXPLAINED OR FIXED. AFTER A WHILE THE CAR DASH STARTED FLASHING A RED ELECTRICAL BOLT AND THE CAR WOULD SHUTTER AND SHAKE AND LOSE ALL POWER. INITIALLY, WHEN THIS OCCURRED I WAS ABLE TO JUST TURN THE CAR OFF AND WAIT AND THEN TURN IT BACK ON AND IT WOULD FUNCTION FOR A WHILE. ALSO, IF THE CAR WAS IDLING AT A STOPLIGHT OR PARKED THE ELECTRICAL BOLT...

I HAVE A 2007 CALIBER R/T I'M AT ABOUT 183,000KM. EARLIER THIS WEEK ALL THE LIGHTS IN MY CLUSTER STARTED FLASHING, AND THE CHIMES STARTED SOUNDING. MY CAR WENT INTO WHAT THEY CALL "LIMP" MODE WHERE THE CAR SHUTS DOWN AND THE FASTEST YOU CAN GO IS 60KM/HR ON A FLAT ROADWAY (AND IT HAS TO BUILD UP TO THAT SPEED). I WAS TOLD THAT THE CONNECTIONS TO MY TIPM (TOTAL INTEGRATED POWER MODULE) HAD BECOME CORRODED AND THAT I WOULD HAVE TO HAVE IT REPLACED ($1000 FOR THE PART, THEN THERE'S LABOUR ON TOP OF THAT). ON TOP OF THAT I WAS TOLD THAT THEY WOULD HAVE TO CHECK ALL THE WIRING TO ENSURE THAT ALL THE CORROSION WAS TAKEN CARE OF, WHICH WOULD PROBABLY COST A WHOLE BUNCH OF MONEY SEEING AS THERE IS A WHOLE LOT OF WIRING THAT WOULD HAVE TO BE CHECKED. THE SERVICE MANAGER...

WE'VE BEEN TOLD WE NEED A FUSE BOX AT A COST OF $1025. I SEE MANY OTHER PEOPLE ARE HAVING THIS SAME PROBLEM. WHY ISN'T CHRYSLER FIXING THIS? WE'RE ON SOCIAL SECURITY, WE CAN'T AFFORD THIS. *TR

I NOTICED THAT MY LEFT (DRIVER SIDE) HEADLIGHT WAS OUT. SO I REPLACED THE BULB, WHICH WOULD BE THE OBVIOUS REASON FOR THE LIGHT NOT WORKING. HOWEVER, THIS DID NOT FIX THE ISSUE. AFTER FURTHER INSPECTION AND DISCUSSION WITH A MECHANIC, IT TURNS OUT IT'S THE TIMP THAT IS BAD AND CAUSING THE DRIVER SIDE HEADLIGHT NOT TO WORK. IN ADDITION, AFTER DOING MORE RESEARCH ONLINE IT APPEARS THAT THIS ISSUE IS MORE THAN COMMON WITH THE 2007 DODGE CALIBER. I CAN'T SEE HOW A RECALL HAS NOT ALREADY BEEN FILED FOR THIS ISSUE GIVEN IT IS A HUGE SAFETY HAZARD IF ONE'S HEADLIGHTS DON'T WORK AT NIGHT. IN ADDITION, IT CAUSES SOMEONE TO BE PULLED OVER. *TR

I FIRST LOST THE LOW BEAM ON MY DRIVER SIDE HEAD LIGHT. I REPLACED THE BULB ONLY TO HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM. LATER THAT DAY I WAS STOPPED AT A RED LIGHT, MY CAR THEN STALLED OUT. I PUT IT IN PARK AND RESTARTED IT. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT STARTED TO FLASH THERE WAS LITTLE TO NO POWER. I MANAGED TO PULL MY CAR OFF THE ROAD PUT IT INTO PARK THEN RESTART IT AGAIN. THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT STAYED ON BUT WAS NOT FLASHING. I GOT MY CAR HOME. I COUNT MY BLESSING THAT MY CAR DIDN'T DIE WHILE GOING AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS. OR LOSE ALL THE LIGHTS AND CAUSE AN CRASH. I'M WORRIED TO DRIVE IT NOW BUT I HAVE NO CHOICE IF I WANT TO KEEP WORKING. THIS IS A VERY COMMON ISSUE FROM WHAT I HAVE READ. THE TOTALLY INTEGRATED POWER MODULE NEEDS TO BE RECALLED...

WHILE DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY IN THE DARK BOTH OF MY LOW BEAM LIGHTS WENT OUT LEAVING ME WITH HIGH BEAMS ONLY. HAVE FOUND OUT LIKE NUMEROUS OTHER CALIBER OWNERS THAT MY TIPM NEEDS REPLACED DUE TO CORROSION AND THAT ALL THE WIRING NEEDS CHECKED FOR CORROSION AS WELL. HAVE BEEN TOLD THIS IS A COMMON OCCURRENCE WITH THE DODGE CALIBER AND THERE IS NO RECALL. SINCE I DO NOT HAVE ANY WARRANTY LEFT ON MY VEHICLE I WILL BE PAYING FOR THIS ON MY OWN IF I CHOOSE TO FIX IT. SINCE I DRIVE APPROXIMATELY 100 MILES ROUND TRIP TO WORK 5 DAYS A WEEK AND AM HAVING HEALTH ISSUES THAT REQUIRE ME TO TRAVEL TO THE DOCTOR FREQUENTLY, I WILL HAVE TO FIND A WAY TO GET THE MONEY TO FIX THIS ISSUE AS IT IS NOT SAFE TO DRIVE ON THE HIGHWAY WITH NO LOW BEAM AND...

I WAS SLOWING DOWN TO STOP AT AN INTERSECTION AND HEARD A THUMP ON THE BOTTOM OF THE CAR. AS I STARTED TO PULL FORWARD THE STEERING WAS VERY DIFFICULT AND THE I HEARD A WHINING SOUND FROM THE RIGHT FRONT TIRE. I WAS ABOUT A MILE FROM MY REPAIR SHOP SO I HAD MY BROTHER FOLLOW ME WITH HIS EMERGENCY FLASHERS AND DROVE SLOWLY TO THE SHOP WHERE I FOUND OUT THAT THE SUBFRAME WAS COMPLETELY ROTTED THROUGH. IN THE LAST YEAR, I HAVE HAD TO REPLACE UPPER AND LOWER CONTROL ARMS AND THE ALTERNATOR. *TR

4/3/12 MY MECHANIC WOULD NOT INSPECT MY CAR BECAUSE THE FOG LIGHTS DID NOT WORK, DIAGNOSIS STATED THAT IT NEEDED A TIMP (FUSE BOX BAD) - HE REPLACED IT. 10/12/13 WHILE I WAS AT NAPA AUTO PARTS STORE I WAS INFORMED THAT I HAD NOT BRAKE LIGHTS - DIAGNOSIS STATES THAT I NEED TO REPLACE THE TIMP AGAIN. THANK GOD THERE WAS NOT AN ACCIDENT - BUT YOU MUST KNOW THAT THIS ISSUE WITH THIS CAR IS FREQUENT AND IS A ROULETTE WITH SAFETY. BRAKE LIGHTS ARE A SAFETY ESSENTIAL AND SHOULD NEVER BE WORRIED OR QUESTIONED TO KNOW THEY WILL WORK OR NOT? I EMPLOY YOU TO HAVE A SAFETY RECALL ON THESE VEHICLES. *TR

ELEC LOCKS, WINDSHIELD WIPER(REAR), RADIO, CLOCK, HAZARD LIGHTS, AIR CONDITIONER, HEATER WOULD NOT WORK AND "NOFUSE" MESSAGE ON DASH. *TR

LOW BEAM HEADLIGHT ON PASSENGER SIDE WILL NOT TURN ON BUT THE HIGH BEAM WORKS FINE. HAVE CHECKED WIRING AND FUSES AND IT SEEMS TO BE THE TIPM. TOOK INTO A SHOP AND THEY SAID THAT IT IS THE TIPM TELLING THE LIGHT NOT TO TURN ON SO IN OTHER WORDS ITS A BAD TIPM. I WAS MADE AWARE THAT THE PART WOULD BE CLOSE TO $1200. I'VE RESEARCHED THIS ISSUE ONLINE AND I SEE THAT IT IS A VERY COMMON ISSUE. I AM NOW STARTING TO HAVE ISSUES WITH WHAT I THINK IS A BEARING GONE BAD, STILL TRYING TO DETERMINE THIS. TODAY AS I WAS ALMOST HOME, MY CHARGE SYSTEM LIGHT CAME ON. WHEN I GOT HOME, SO TURNED CAR OFF AND LET IT SIT A FEW MINUTES, TURNED THE CAR BACK AND NO ISSUES. THE 2007 DODGE CALIBER SEEMS TO HAVE ISSUES. I WROTE TO DODGE ABOUT...

DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY, ALL OF MY DASH LIGHTS CAME ON-BATTERY, FUEL, TEMP, ETC. CAR LOST SPEED AND BECAME SLUGGISH. LOST POWER STEERING AND PULLED OVER. CAR IMMEDIATELY DIED AND WOULD NOT GO INTO PARK. LOCKED UP COMPLETELY. AFTER ABOUT 30 MINS, IT STARTED BACK UP AND RAN FOR PAX 3 BLOCKS BEFORE DOING IT AGAIN. HAD IT TOWED. REPLACED THE ALTERNATOR, THEN 3 WEEKS LATER SAME ISSUES. REPLACED THE BATTERY. DID NOT FIX IT. NOW TOLD ITS A COMMON ISSUE FOR THE DODGE CALIBER AND IS THE CONTROL MODULE WHICH IS A 1000 DOLLAR PART PLUS LABOR. AND THAT DODGE IS AWARE OF THE ISSUE AND HAS NOT RECALLED THEM. I DO NOT FEEL I SHOULD BE STUCK WITH THE COSTS OF A MAJOR REPAIR THAT IS A DESIGN FLAW FROM THE MANUFACTURER THAT THEY HAVE BEEN AWARE OF FOR YEARS AND IS OBVIOUSLY A HAZARD WHEN IT SHUTS...

I OWN A 2007 DODGE CALIBER SXT. BACK IN MARCH OF THIS YEAR, THE DRIVER'S SIDE HEADLIGHT WENT OUT. AFTER REPLACING THE BULB, IT STILL DID NOT WORK. I LOOKED ONLINE FOR SOME POTENTIAL ENLIGHTENMENT AS TO WHY AND FOUND A MULTITUDE OF MESSAGE BOARDS AND CONSUMER WEBSITES STATING THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM WITH THE 2007 DODGE CALIBERS. IT STARTS WITH LOSING A HEADLIGHT AND THEN ESCALATES TO LOSS OF POWER TO THE HEADLIGHTS, BLINKERS, HAZARD LIGHTS, WINDSHIELD WIPERS, AND SOMETIMES THE HEATING/COOLING SYSTEM AND/OR RADIO. INITIALLY, IN MARCH, I HADN'T EXPERIENCED THAT YET. TODAY, I WAS DRIVING THROUGH A CITY AT APPROXIMATELY 30MPH WHEN I WENT TO TAKE A TURN AND NOTICED MY RIGHT BLINKER WASN'T WORKING, SO I TRIED THE BLINKER FOR THE LEFT. THAT TOO WAS NOT WORKING. NEITHER WERE MY HAZARD LIGHTS OR WINDSHIELD WIPERS. I WAS FAR FROM HOME AND AFRAID TO SHUT THE...

PASSENGER HEADLIGHT NOT TURNING ON. AFTER REPLACING BULB IT POWERED ON ONE OR TWO MORE TIMES THEN WOULD NOT TURN ON AGAIN. AFTER MUCH RESEARCH I HAVE FOUND THAT THE TIPM IS THE RESULT, AND THAT IT IS VERY EXPENSIVE TO FIX. SINCE HEADLIGHT HAVE TO PASS SAFETY INSPECTIONS AND THE TIPM APPEARS TO BE FAULTY, THIS SHOULD BE CONSIDERED A RECALL! *TR

ON APPROXIMATELY FEBRUARY 5TH AROUND 8:00PM MY FAMILY AND I WERE DRIVING HOME FROM BEING AT SISTER'S HOUSE AND THE DASH BOARD/INSTRUMENT PANEL LIGHTING WENT COMPLETELY OUT. WE CAN NO LONGER SEE OUR TACHOMETER OR SPEEDOMETER AT NIGHT. WE CONTACTED OUR DEALERSHIP WHILE OUR WARRANTY WAS STILL IN EFFECT AND TO OUR SURPRISE THE WARRANTY DID NOT COVER ELECTRICAL AND WE WERE TOLD THAT IT WOULD COST $800.00+ TO HAVE IT REPLACED. SAFETY HAZARD. NOW AT 88,623 MILES OUR TRANSMISSION IS BEGINNING TO SLIP. DODGE NEEDS TO FIX THIS. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE HAVING THE VEHICLE MAINTENANCED, THE MECHANIC ADVISED THAT THE FUEL PUMP WIRING HAD CAUGHT FIRE, BURNED THROUGH THE FUEL PUMP AND INTO THE FUEL TANK. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 152,000. *TR

THE DRIVER'S SIDE HEADLIGHT STOPPED WORKING AFTER FLICKERING ON AND OFF FOR A FEW WEEKS. I CHECKED THE WIRING, CHANGED THE BULB, CHECKED FOR LOOSE CONNECTIONS AND ALL FINE. DID SOME RESEARCH AND FOUND THAT THE TOTALLY INTEGRATED POWER MODULE (TIPM) IS THE CAUSE. IT APPEARS FROM WHAT I HAVE SEEN THAT NUMEROUS PEOPLE WHO HAVE CALIBERS AND PT CRUISERS HAVE EXPERIENCED THE PROBLEM. THE TWO WAYS I HAVE SEEN TO FIX THIS IS TO BUY A NEW TIPM FOR $500-$800 DOLLARS, NOT INSTALLED, OR REWIRE IT TO THE PASSENGER LIGHT WHICH MAY CAUSE A FIRE. THIS IS TOTALLY UNACCEPTABLE! TO RELY ON A $500-$800 PART TO MAKE SURE A HEADLIGHT WORKS? DODGE NEEDS TO BE FORCED TO RECALL THE PART OR PROVIDE OWNERS AVAILABLE OPTIONS AT CHEAPER RATES! THIS IS VERY POOR AND I HOPE THAT NHTSA WILL ASSISTS THE 1,000'S OF OWNERS WHO ARE EXPERINCING THIS PROBLEM. THANK...

LEFT LOW BEAM CUT OUT WHILE DRIVING. I REPLACED THE BULB, STILL NOT WORKING. NEXT DAY, ABS, ESP, BRAKE, TRACTION CONTROL LIGHTS ILLUMINATED. I CHECKED ALL FUSES AND FOUND NOTHING. I REPLACED ALL FUSES JUST TO BE SAFE, STILL NOTHING. I CALLED THE DEALERSHIP TO ASK WHAT THE PROBLEM COULD BE. I MENTIONED THE LOW BEAM AND HE IMMEDIATELY SAID THAT THE TIPM NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. HE STATED THAT HE HAD REPLACED 3 OF THE SAME MODEL THAT MONTH. AFTER BEING TOLD THE COST OF THE REPAIR, $ 1,200, I WAS UPSET. THIS IS A COSTLY REPAIR. THERE ARE NUMEROUS COMPLAINTS FOUND ON THE INTERNET, ESPECIALLY THE DODGE FORUMS, WITH THESE SAME ISSUES. MANY PEOPLE BELIEVE THAT THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE AND IT REALLY IS. I HAVE NOT HAD THE PART REPLACED, BUT AFTER READING A FEW COMPLAINTS OF THE RIGHT LOW BEAM ALSO FAILING, I WILL NOT...

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 DODGE CALIBER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE FRONT PASSENGER AIR BAG WARNING LIGHT ILLUMINATED ON AN INTERMITTENT BASIS. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER. AFTER DIAGNOSIS, THEY ADVISED HER THAT THERE WAS A VOLTAGE FAILURE AND THE VEHICLE NEEDED A NEW BATTERY. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED BY REPROGRAMMING THE VEHICLE BUT THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED AND THEY OFFERED NO ASSISTANCE. THE FAILURE AND CURRENT MILEAGES WERE APPROXIMATELY. *TR

I PURCHASED THE CAR IN DECEMBER 2011 WITH THE FRONT STRUTS NEEDING TO BE REPLACED. THE DAY I BOUGHT IT, THE ELECTRICAL THROTTLE SYSTEM LIGHT CAME ON AND IT SHOOK VIOLENTLY AND SHUT OFF. I WAITED A FEW MINUTES AND IT STARTED BACK UP. AFTER REPLACING THE STRUTS, AND THE TIRE ROD ENDS, THE CAR WAS FINE. BY AUGUST 2012, THE BALL JOINTS AND TIRE ROD ENDS NEEDED TO BE REPLACED AGAIN, AND THIS TIME THE CONTROL ARM, SO I REPLACED THEM. IN NOVEMBER 2012, I REPLACED THE BATTERY AND ALTERNATOR. IN FEBRUARY 2013, THE CAR BEGAN SHUTTING OFF AS I WOULD ACCELERATE, MAKING THE CREAKING AND RATTLING NOISES NEAR THE FRONT TIRES, AND THE STEERING WHEEL WOULD SHAKE AND THE WHEELS WOULD SOUND LIKE THEY WOULD COME OFF AS I WOULD BRAKE FROM HIGHWAY SPEEDS. SO I TOOK THE CAR TO THE SHOP, AND ONCE AGAIN, THE BALL JOINTS,...

ENGINE WARNING LIGHTS FLASH, WARNING CHECK ENGINE LIGHT DISAPPEAR, REAPPEAR AT WILL, WONT START, SYSTEM FAILURE, LOSS OF POWER, SPEED LIMIT ACUTE LOSS OF POWER, STALLING OF ENGINE WHILE AT FREEWAY SPEEDS, STALLING OUT AT 35-40 MPH SPEEDS, NOISE AT GAS PEDAL. *TR

CAR PURCHASED BRAND NEW IN 2007 WITH LIFETIME POWERTRAIN WARRANTY. DRIVEN 99% ON INTERSTATE AT APPROXIMATELY 70 MPH. ALL MANUFACTURER'S MAINTENANCE RECOMMENDATIONS HAVE BEEN FOLLOWED. WHILE DRIVING APPROX 72 MPH IN FLOW OF TRAFFIC, CAR SUDDENLY DECELERATED TO UNDER 35 MPH AND LIGHTNING BOLT (ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL INDICATOR) BEGAN FLASHING. I WAS NEARLY HIT BY A TRACTOR TRAILER BARRELING DOWN ON MY CAR. I MOVED TO THE SHOULDER, GRABBED THE MANUAL AND READ ABOUT THE LIGHT. I TURNED OFF THE CAR AND TURNED IT BACK ON AFTER ABOUT 15 MINUTES AND THE CAR SEEMED FINE AND I WAS ABLE TO GET HOME. THE NEXT MORNING, THE CAR WOULDN'T START. I TRIED SEVERAL HOURS LATER AND IT STARTED JUST FINE. ABOUT 1 MILE DOWN THE ROAD IN 3RD GEAR, THE CAR LOST SPEED AGAIN DROPPING FROM APPROX 40 MPH TO 10 MPH. THE LIGHTNING BOLT WAS NOT ON THIS TIME, BUT...

THE LEFT HEADLIGHT LOW-BEAM DOES NOT WORK. HAVE BEEN STOPPED 3 TIMES BY POLICE FOR WARNINGS. HAVE REPLACED LIGHT BULB WITH NEW BULB AND IT STILL ONLY WORKS ON HIGH-BEAM. TOOK TO AUTO SERVICE CENTER, THEY ALSO TRIED TO INSTALL A NEW BULB, BUT IT TO DID NOT WORK. TRIED TIP OF REMOVING BOTH BATTERY CABLES AND HOLDING THEM TOGETHER FOR 10 MINUTES TO RESET COMPUTER CODE. THAT ALSO DID NOT WORK. FROM SEARCHING THE INTERNET ON THIS PROBLEM, I FIND THAT THERE ARE MANY OF THESE VEHICALS WITH SIMILAR PROBLEMS. I THINK THESE SHOULD BE RECALLED BY CHRYSLER BECAUSE IT CAUSES A SAFETY ISSUE WHEN DRIVING AT NIGHT OR DURING THE DAY WHEN IT IS RAINING. *TR