2012 CHEVROLET CAPTIVA SPORT Electrical System Problems

The car will stall and shut off, the radio quits working and the key will get stuck in the ignition.

The component that has failed has been the transmission and the AC. My safety was at risk because the car wouldn’t drive forward whilst on the road. It has been confirmed by independent service. Yes the problem has been inspected by representatives. There was a warning that was said “Check transmission engine”

Unknown, car will shut off while driving and turn back on while flashing service traction control. In some cases it will completely turn off and I will have to put transmission in park and re crank it in the middle of traffic. Power steering goes out while driving aswell as other issues. Locks go in and out while driving. No known cause to this as battery and alternator is good and I've replaced BCM and reprogrammed it but still having the same issue

While driving on an interstate, the voltage suddenly began to decrease. Within a few minutes, the car died on the highway. we were able to get it to the shoulder. No electrical equipment worked, including the emergency lights. After taking it to a garage, the mechanic said the alternator was working fine, but the battery was drained. He was able to start and run the car, but the computer indicated that a long-term memory issue with the computer, itself, was indicated. Also, previous to this, the transmission had to be rebuilt. Maybe DumDum should declare that all Americans made vehicles are presumed to be defective, and subject to a recall!

The battery cables are faulty and overheat causing the car to shut off and lock key in the ignition with complete loss of power this is happening to nearly every Chevy captiva and is a wide spread issue this is also a serious fire hazard as the cables over heating is enough to boil water car shuts off and locks key in ignition without warning

Engine light came on lost compressions. Engine wouldn't turn off. Steering was loose like we were on water. Traction control and stabilitrac were disabled and unable to turn bsvjninuiHas to press breaks to the floor. If I was going any faster I could have lost control. The repair shop replaced the fuse box and Bcm not even 3 miles engine light came back on and it misfires, pistons problems, compression. I called the dealership I bought it from and they state it's safe!

I am not sure what component could be one could be several. When I pulled into my driveway and put it in park. The engine light came on and the stereo went off. When checking the stereo would not turn back on and nothing on the instrument panel would work, heater/air conditioning, rear wipers, heated seats, hazard lights, the parking/emergency break literally nothing. So I turned the key in the ignition to the off position took the key out and the engine continued to run? I called onstar from the vehicle and realized that didn't work either so I had called from my cell. They advices me to call a mechanic. Unable to do so as it was 9pm and not was mechanic shop was available I looked online. I ended up pulling the fuel relay switch and waited several minutes for it to finally die then I undid the...

Numerous complaints have been filed on the internet and to the NHTSA concerning the electrical system on this vehicle. Include engine not starting when turn key, car starts to have flashing instrument panel light and then dying, failure to be able to remove the key when turning off the ignition, most dangerous issue is the electrical system failing when on the highway, dealers seem to be aware of the problem but have not corrected problem which is probably related to positive and negative battery cables and "battery current sensor". This is a dangerous vehicle because of the uncertainty of the electrical failure to some time start or failing while driving down the highway. It certainly seems that there have been sufficient issues by any number Captiva owners to warrant a recall and have dealers correct the electrical problems before one is seriously injured.

UNABLE TO REMOVE KEY FROM IGNITION WHEN VEHICLE IS IN PARK. IT WOULD STICK IN THE AUXILIARY POSITION. I COULD RESTART THE ENGINE BUT I COULD NOT TURN THE VEHICLE COMPLETELY OFF. THIS STARTED A COUPLE OF YEARS AGO AND WOULD HAPPEN RANDOMLY. OVER TIME IT BECAME MORE FREQUENT BEFORE IT FINALLY WASN’T COMING OUT AT ALL. I WOULD HAVE TO LEAVE MY KEY IN THE CAR AND DISCONNECT THE BATTERY AFTER USE. I TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP AND HAD THE TRANSMISSION CONTROL SHIFTER REPLACED. FOLLOWING THIS REPAIR I STARTED HAVING MORE ELECTRICAL ISSUES. MY RADIO WOULD CUT OUT AND THE TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT WOULD FLASH ON. I WENT TO GM SERVICE AND THEY COULD FIND NOTHING. THE ISSUE CONTINIUED AND ONLY GOT WORSE. I WAS DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY AND LOST ACCELERATION TO MY VEHICLE IN HEAVY TRAFFIC. I HAD TO SLIDE ON TO THE SHOULDER AND WAS...

Sometimes when driving all the electrical equipment will turn off for a brief moment. When this happens all the warning lights come on. Sometimes prior to this happening the dashboard lights will begin to flicker. Service lights such as "service traction control" will come on then go off, the headlights would noticably flicker and the cruise control would randomly turn off. This problem has not been replicated by the independent garage it was taken too however there were codes for low and high voltages thrown. The garage couldn't find anything wrong with it but replaced the battery and alternator. The problem went away for a brief period of time but will randomly come back from time to time. The key also would sometimes get in the ignition and this progressed untill the key became fully stuck and the car had to be serviced. Many others have these same complaints.

I HAVE BROUGHT MY VEHICLE TO CHEVY AND WAS ADVISED THAT THEY COULD NOT FIND ANYTHING WRONG WITH THE TRACTION CONTROL OR THE RADIO. EVERY SO OFTEN THE TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT COMES ON AND STATES THAT THE TRACTION CONTROL NEEDS TO BE SERVICED WHEN THE VEHICLE IS RUNNING IDLE FOR MORE THAN 30 SECONDS. WHEN THAT COMES ON THE RADIO BLINKS ON AND OFF. IN THE PAST TWO WEEKS, THE VEHICLE HAD TO GET JUMPED TWICE. TOOK THE VEHICLE TO GET TESTED AT TWO DIFFERENT AUTO STORES AND WAS ADVISED AFTER THEY TESTED THE BATTERY THAT THE BATTERY WAS GOOD. I AM FRUSTRATED THAT THEY CANNOT FIND ANYTHING WRONG WITH IT YET IT IS ON THE BRINK OF NOT WORKING EVERY OTHER DAY. IN ADDITION, THE VEHICLE WAS NOT ABLE TO GO UP A SMALL HILL AFTER THE SNOW HAD FALLEN. I HAD TO GET ASSISTANCE. THIS IS NOT ACCEPTABLE.

HAVING NUMEROUS ISSUES. THE FIRST ONE IS THAT THE IGNITION WHEN SWITCHED TO OFF WILL NOT RELEASE THE KEY. DOES NOT TURN ALL THE WAY TO RELEASE THE KEY OUT. HAD IT SWAPPED OUT AND STILL HAVING THE SAME ISSUE. SOMETHING ABOUT A RELEASE INSIDE THE COLUM THAT WILL NOT FULLY DISENGAGE SECOND ISSUE IS THAT MY CAR WILL LOCK AS WELL AS UNLOCK ITS SELF. THE CAR CAN BE OFF AND PARKED OR EVEN DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD. THE HATCH RELEASE AS WELL WILL DISENGAGE AND POP OPEN. TOOK IT TO SHOPS AND DEALERS.

STABILITY CONTROL AND BREAK WARNING CONSTANTLY..HAD BREAKS COMPLETELY REPAIRED TWICE WITHIN THE 2 YEARS OF PURCHASING IT..ONLY HAS 160,000 MILES. LIGHTING WIRING ISSUE MALFUNCTION.

WHILE DRIVING - OR EVEN SITTING STILL - RADIO AND CLOCK WILL SHUT OFF, "SERVICE STABILITRACK LIGHT" ILLUMINATES ON DASH WITH THE MESSAGE SHOWING ON THE MESSAGE CENTER DASH DISPLAY. AFTER 5 SECONDS OR SO, IT DISAPPEARS; HOWEVER OCCURS OFTEN BUT NO CONSISTENT (SOMETIMES NONE AT ALL, SOME TIMES 4 OR SO TIMES IN A 20MI DRIVE). BATTERY AND ALTERNATOR ARE BRAND NEW (ALTERNATOR HAS BEEN REPLACED TWICE IN 12 MONTHS). VEHICLE IS OWNED OUTRIGHT AND HAS 142,000+ MILES.

1. AFTER DRIVING TO ANY LOCATIONS, FOR EXAMPLE, GROCERY STORES, TRAIN STATION PARKING LOT IN MY NEIGHBORHOOD, THE KEY WOULD NOT COME OUT OF THE IGNITION, BUT SHUT DOWN THE ENGINE. THEN AFTER 15-30 MINUTES, THERE IS ALWAYS A CLICK, AND ONCE I TURNED THE KEY , IT STARTS THE CAR SUDDENLY. THIS HAS OCCURRED TWICE THE PAST FEW MONTHS, AND MY CHEVYL DEALERSHIP HAD WORKED ON THIS ISSUE. YET, IT HAS STARTED CURRING AGAIN THE PAST 2 DAYS 07/19/2020, AFTER THEY WORKED ON IT SINCE12/04/2019. 2. THERE IS ALSO A JUMP SURGE WHEN SLOWING DOWN TO STOP WHEN TRAFFIC IS MOVING SLOWLY, AND AS I TRIED TO DRIVE FORWARD OR WHEN TURNING FROM A STOP SIGN.

INITIALLY THE ISSUE PRESENTED AS OCCASIONAL BRAKE LIGHT OUTAGE. SOON AFTER THIS BECAME PERMANENT. IT ALSO AFFECTS THE REVERSE LIGHTS MAKING IT SO THAT THEY'RE ALWAYS ON, EVEN WHEN THE CAR ISN'T RUNNING. IN ADDITION, THE INTERIOR LIGHTS (DOORS AND OVERHEAD) ARE AFFECTED AND NO LONGER WORK. THE BACKUP CAMERA HAD TO BE REMOVED BECAUSE THE WIRING BURNT OUT. ALSO THE SUNROOF HAS STOPPED WORKING. FRONT RIGHT TURN SIGNAL ALSO STOPPED WORKING. IT WAS NO LONGER SAFE TO DRIVE AROUND MID-MARCH 2019. I HAD TO TAKE IT IN TO A AUTO ELECTRIC SPECIALIST TWICE STARTING APRIL 2019. AFTER ALL THIS, IT WAS DIAGNOSED AS NEEDING A NEW HARNESS AND TOTAL REWIRE AND A BODY CONTROL MODULE AND PROGRAMMING. APPARENTLY THIS IS A COMMON ISSUE WITH THIS VEHICLE AND I WAS TOLD I WOULD BE BETTER OFF CUTTING MY LOSSES AND STARTING OVER WITH A DIFFERENT CAR. DATES ARE APPROXIMATE.

CAR HAS RANDOM TIMES IT WONT START. NOW MY RADIO CUTS IN AND OUT WHILE DRIVING. LIGHTS FLASH ON AND OFF

AFTER DRIVING AND PARKING, THE VEHICLE AT THE STORE. THE VEHICLE CONSTANTLY LOOSES ALL POWER AND WILL NOT START AND THERE ARE NO WARNING SIGNS. KEYS WILL LOCK IN THE IGNITION, REMOTE START DEPROGRAMS, THE CAR HAS NO POWER. POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE IS EXTREMELY HOT AND SECOND-DEGREE BURNS ARE ON HAND WHEN TOUCHED. REPLACED BATTERY, POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE, AND 1 WEEK LATER THE PROBLEM STARTED AGAIN. NO PROBLEM WITH THE STARTER, ALTERNATOR. NO LOOSE WIRES AND THERE IS NO ELECTRICAL SHORTAGE. RESEARCHED THE PROBLEM ON THE INTERNET AND THIS APPEARS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM WITH THIS TYPE OF VEHICLE. THE BATTERY WILL NOT CHARGE FROM A JUMP. NO POWER TO THE CAR AND YOU ARE STRANDED FOR HOURS WAITING FOR THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE TO COOL DOWN. AFTER HOURS OF WAITING THE CAR STARTS UP WITH NO PROBLEM, BUT WILL DO THE SAME THING AGAIN WHEN TURNED OFF. NOTHING...

KEY KEEPS GETTING STUCK IN THE IGNITION 75% OF THE TIME I TRY TO SHIFT IT OFF. IT WONT SHUT ALL THE WAY OFF EITHER. IT JUST GOES TO ACC. SEEMS LIKE A VERY VERY COMMON ISSUE. THIS NEEDS A RECALL AND GM SHOULD HAVE TO PAY FOR IT. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6). *TR

KEY STICKS IN IGNITION

STALLED, SLOWED SPEED, STOPPED. WILL NOT RESTART

ELECTRICAL PROBLEM. WILL NOT START AFTER TURNING OFF. 3RD TIME

SERIOUS ELECTRICAL ISSUES CAUSES SUV TO SHUT DOWN WITH LITTLE TO NO WARNING. ALL LIGHTS ON DASH LIGHT UP, RPMS GO TO 0 CAR SHUTS OFF. THIS HAS HAPPENED MULTIPLE TIMES, CAR CAN'T BE STEERED AWAY FROM TRAFFIC AND THE HAZARD LIGHTS ARE DEAD. KEY CAN'T BE REMOVED FROM IGNITION. COMPLETELY DEAD VEHICLE.NEW BATTERIES, NEW ALTERNATORS AND MULTIPLE MECHANICS CAN'T FIND THE PROBLEM. DISCONNECT BATTERY CABLES, RECHARGE THE BATTERY AND IT RUNS FOR A FEW MONTHS. NO ONE CAN TELL US THE ISSUE AND WE ARE STUCK WITH NO RECALLS AND LOTS OF PEOPLE HAVE THE SAME DANGEROUS ISSUE. CAR IS DRIVABLE TODAY BUT TO DANGEROUS TO PUT MY FAMILY IN ANYMORE. ARE THEY WAITING FOR SOMEONE TO DIE BEFORE A RECALL IS ISSUED?

MANY TIMES THIS CAR HAS JUST DIED WHILE DRIVING. OIL AND BATTERY ARE GOOD. I HAVE HAD TO REPLACE THE TIMING CHAIN. THERE NOW SEEMS TO BE A PROBLEM WITH A FUEL PUMP OR SENSOR CAUSING THE CAR TO DIE. I AM TAKING IT TO A MECHANIC THIS WEEK. CURRENTLY NOT DRIVEABLE. I HAVE HAD SO MANY PROBLEMS OUT OF THIS CAR. GREAT LOOK ON THE OUTSIDE, BUT IT BEING A GENERAL MOTORS CAR, THERE ARE MANY PROBLEMS. I THINK THEY SHOULD HAVE HAD A RECALL ON THIS BY NOW. I WILL DO MY BEST TO FILE COMPLAINTS AND SUBMIT PROOF. NOT A DURABLE CAR.

WHEN DRIVING DOWN STREET OR EVEN IN A PARKED POSITION THE SUV WON'T START. NO LIGHTS, NO AUDIO. CANNOT REMOVE KEY. UNABLE TO ENGAGE ALARM. RADIO ON & OFF INTERMITTENTLY; TRIGGERED BY USING HAZARDS, TURN SIGNALS, HI-BEAMS, CRUISE CONTROL. ALSO, 'SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL', 'ABS', AND A CAPITAL 'P' WITH WRENCH ICON FLICKER INTERMITTENTLY IN THE DASH PANEL. 'CHECK ENGINE' LIGHT APPEARS PERIODICALLY BUT EVENTUALLY CLEARS. SUV HAS DIED SIMPLY DRIVING IN TRAFFIC WITH THE ABOVE SYMPTOMS. ALL FUSES IN ENGINE COMPARTMENT AND INTERIOR FUSE PANEL ARE IN TACT. AFTER WIGGLING THE BATTERY HARNESS, SUV WILL RESPOND POSITIVELY.

CONSTANTLY LOSES POWER REGARDLESS OF NEW BATTERIES, BATTERY CABLES, AND MANY OTHER REPAIRS. HAVE BEEN STRUGGLING WITH THIS FOR 4 YEARS. VEHICLE HAS BEEN TAKEN TO CHEVY HOUSE MULTIPLE TIMES BUT EVEN THEY DON'T KNOW WHAT IS HAPPENING. THERE IS A LENGTHY FORUM I HAVE FOLLOWED WITH OTHER CAPTIVA OWNERS HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM WITHOUT ANY LUCK. NO RECALLS HAVE BEEN ISSUED REGARDLESS OF DRIVER AND PASSENGER SAFETY BEING PUT AT RISK TIME AND TIME AGAIN AND COUNTLESS DOLLARS SPENT ON FAILED REPAIRS.

KEY WILL NOT GO PAST ACCESSORY WHEN TRYING TO SHUT OFF. TOOK TO DEALER, IT'S AN ARM THAT IS NOT ENGAGING IN SHIFTER WHEN PLACING IN PARK.

RADIO WOULD TURN OFF WHILE DRIVING, SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL MESSAGE LIGHT AND CHIMES, WOULD GO OFF, INTERIOR LIGHTS WOULD DIM OUT VEHICLE WOULD TURN OVER BUT NOT START, ENGINE LIGHT WOULD NOT STAY ON HOWEVER WAS ABLE TO GET AUTO STORE TO PULL CODES WHEN LIGHT WAS ON. TALKED TO DEALERSHIP ADVISED TO REPLACE BATTERY AND KEY FOB AS ONE CODE HAD TO DO WITH VEHICLE THINKING WRONG KEY WAS USED. REPLACED BATTERY AND KEY FOBS SEEMED TO BE OKAY FOR 2 MONTHS. THEN TODAY WHEN PUTTING WINDOW DOWN TO GET MAIL THE RADIO TURNED OFF, SERVICE TRACTION CONTROLS LIGHTS STARTED GOING OFF AGAIN AND AIR BLOWER CUT OUT (THIS STARTED WHEN VEHICLE PUT IN PARK) NOTICED WHEN THIS WAS HAPPENING THAT VOLTAGE ON BATTERY WOULD DROP. TOOK TO AUTO STORE AND THEY CHECKED BATTERY IT WAS FINE. BUT WHEN AIR WAS ON AND WINDOW WOULD BE PUT DOWN IT...

KILLS ON HIGHWAY AND IN TOWN, CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON THEN OFF IN ABOUT 15-30 MINUTES, KEY GETS STUCK IN IGNITION WHEN IT DO KILLS, NO INDICATOR, RADIO SWITCHES LIKE IT'S GOING CRAZY SOMETIMES FOR DAYS AND WEEKS, I'VE BROUGHT 3 BATTERIES SINCE MARCH 10,2017 WHEN I STARTED FINANCING THIS VEHICLE, REPLACED BATTERY CABLES AND PROBLEM STILL REOCCURRING, ALTERNATOR REPLACED AND NOW GIVING TROUBLE AGAIN, SOMETHING IS MAKING THE PRESSURE IN MY TIRES EXTREMELY LOW, LIGHTS DIM, DASHBOARD LIGHTS FLICKERING, INSIDE LIGHTS COMES ON SOMETIMES, SOMETIMES EVERYTHING SHUTS DOWN ON THIS VEHICLE, WHEN STATIONARY VEHICLE IDLES AND HESITANT, WHEN IN MOTION VEHICLE IDILES, HESITANT, MISSES, AND KILLS. ON THE HIGHWAY THE VEHICLE IDLES, MISSED, SHAKY, HESITANT , AND KILLS WITH NO INDICATION VERY DANGEROUS AFRAID MY KIDS AND I WILL LOSE OUR LIFE IN THIS VEHICLE!!! WHEN TURNING VEHICLE IS HESITANT, SOMETIMES LOSE POWER, AND MISSES. SOMETIMES THE VEHICLE...

KEY GETS STUCK AND WARNING LIGHTS COME ON AND GO .IF YOU CAN GET CAR TO TURN OFF IT WON'TSTART BACK UP.

TRANSITIONING FROM LOW BEAM TO HIGH BEAM WOULD CAUSE RADIO AND ASSOCIATED CONTROLS/DISPLAY TO GO OUT COMPLETELY. FIX PARKING BREAK AND ONBOARD EMISSIONS CONTROL SENSOR LIGHT WOULD GO ON/OFF INTERMITTENTLY OVER THE COURSE OF SEVERAL WEEKS, SOMETIMES FLICKERING AND OTHER TIMES STAYING ON FOR A FEW HOURS. DROVE CAR 1.5 HRS AND TURNED OFF FOR 1/2 HR, WHEN CAME BACK IT WAS COMPLETELY DEAD AND KEY STUCK IN IGNITION. FEW MIN LATER IT STARTED. WHEN BROUGHT TO DEALERSHIP THEY SAID THERE WERE 18 ERROR CODES AND 1 WAS FOR ECM AND 1 FOR BCM. THEY REPLACED BOTH. CAR WAS 100% FINE FOR 6 DAYS. THEN, CRUISE CONTROL WOULD TURN OFF WHEN A CALL CAME IN OVER BLUETOOTH, RADIO AND ASSOCIATED CONTROLS AND DISPLAY WOULD GO OUT COMPLETELY WHEN USING TURN SIGNAL. VARIOUS DASH PANEL LIGHTS WOULD COME ON SIGNIFYING REPAIRS NEEDED. A COUPLE TIMES CAR WOULDN'T START - WAS 100%...

THE IGNITION SWITCH WON'T TURN COMPLETELY OFF AND THE KEYS WON'T COME OUT OF THE IGNITION. GM PUBLISHED A LETTER AND HAS FIXED OTHER VEHICLES, BUTSOME HAVE HAD TO PAY THE COST. THIS IS A KNOW PROBLEM, IT CAN BE A SAFETY ISSUE AND SHOULD HAVE BEEN FIXED BY THE MANUFACTURER. THIS PROBLEM HAS BEEN ONGOING FOR MARE THAN A YEAR.

INTERMITTENTLY THE RADIO FIRST CUTS OFF, THEN PANEL LIGHTS COME ON (TRACTION CONTROL, CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS) TURN SIGNAL LIGHTS WORK, BUT NO SOUND. YOU LOSE POWER TO CAR AND CANNOT EVEN TAKE THE KEY OUT OF THE IGNITION. AFTER SOME TIME, YOU CAN FINALLY GET THE KEY OUT. SOMETIMES IT'S MINUTES, SOMETIMES IT'S HOURS. THIS STARTED HAPPENING A FEW WEEKS AGO, HAPPENING FEW TIMES A WEEK. NOW, IT'S HAPPENING DAILY, EVEN FEW TIMES A DAY. WE FOUND A CHEVY FORUM ONLINE AND SHOCKINGLY THIS IS HAPPENING TO 2012 CAPTIVA'S. WHY IS THIS NOT A RECALL? THIS CAN BE FATAL TO LOSE POWER TO THE CAR IF WE ARE ON THE HIGHWAY AND LOSE FUNCTION OF THE VEHICLE

UNABLE TO REMOVE KEY FROM IGNITION WHEN VEHICLE IS IN PARK. THIS IS HAPPENING MORE AND MORE FREQUENTLY. STARTED ABOUT 6 MONTHS AGO. NORMALLY YOU HAVE TO RUN THROUGH THE GEARS SEVERAL TIMES OR RESTART. NOW IT'S MUCH HARDER AND TAKES LONGER TO GET THE KEY OUT. ALSO, THERE ARE SIGNIFICANT ELECTRICAL ISSUES. WE REPLACED A THE BATTERY AND STILL HAVE THE FOLLOWING PROBLEMS: THE PARKING BRAKE LIGHT TURNS ON, STABILITY-TRACK LIGHT COMES ON, A/C GOES ON AND OFF AND BLINKERS, CRUISE AND ALL DASH LIGHTS COME ON AND OFF WHILE DRIVING, AS WELL AS RADIO GOING ON AND OFF. WHEN THIS GOT REALLY BAD, I UNHOOKED THE BATTERY AND THEN EVERYTHING SEEMED TO RESET AND WAS GOOD FOR ABOUT 2 WEEKS BUT STARTED AGAIN. THIS STARTED ABOUT 2 MONTHS AGO BUT THE BATTERY WAS REPLACED ABOUT 6 MONTHS AGO

CAN NOT REMOVE KEY WHEN VEHICLE IS IN PARK MOST OF THE TIMES NOW

THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND WOULD NOT GO OFF. AFTER HAVING IT CHECKED BY A LOCAL CERTIFIED MECHANIC, IT WENT OFF BUT CAME BACK ON DAYS LATER. THE CAR WOULD NOT START AND I COULD NOT GET THE KEY OUT OF THE SWITCH. I CALLED AAA AND HAD IT TOWED TO VICTORY CHEVROLET IN CHARLOTTE, N.C. THEY KEPT THE CAR FOR OVER ONE WEEK AND KEPT LOOKING FOR SOMETHING UNTIL THEY REPLACED MOST OF MY ELECTRICAL PARTS. WHEN I ASKED HOW MUCH THIS WOULD COST, I WAS ASKED IF I HAD A PRICE IN MIND. I SAID, "I DON'T WANT TO PAY THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS." HE SAID, "YOU HAVE A LOT OF PROBLEMS." HE CONTINUED TO FIND MORE?? AND BEGAN TO TELL ME A NUMBER OF THINGS. THREE YEARS AGO, I HAD A TRAILER HITCH INSTALLED AND HE TRIED TO BLAME MY PROBLEMS ON THAT. I HAVE NEVER...

CANNOT REMOVE KEY WHEN CAR IS TURNED OFF. HAVE TO RESTART THE CAR TO GET THE KEY OUT. I SEE THIS IN AN ONGOING PROBLEM WITH CHEVROLETS OF ALL MODELS!

KEY STICKS IN IGNITION AND WILL NOT COME OUT WHEN IN PARK. AT TIMES CAR WILL NOT EVEN SHUT OFF. IGNITION WAS REPLACED UNDER WARRANTY. LESS THAN 3,000 MILES AND IT IS DOING IT AGAIN. KEY WILL NOT COME OUT OF IGNITION UNLESS YOU RESTART THE CAR. HAVE MOVED THE SHIFTER AND STEERING WHEEL AND PUSHED THE KEY IN AS ADVISED BY DEALERSHIP. STILL NOT WORKING. ALSO, STABLITRACK AND TRACTION CONTROL LIGHTS COME ON PERIODICALLY WHILE DRIVING, CAUSING THE CAR TO JUMP AND BUCK. DEALERSHIP ADVISED TO TURN OFF TRACTION CONTROL, BUT WHILE THE LIGHTS ARE ON AND THE CAR IS JERKING, YOU CANNOT DEACTIVATE. DEALERSHIP SAYS IT IS AN ENGINE MISFIRE PROBLEM BUT NOT SIGNIFICANT ENOUGH TO WARRANT TAKING CAR APART TO FIX.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2012 CHEVROLET CAPTIVA SPORT. WHILE DRIVING 40 MPH, THE PARKING BRAKE LIGHT CONTINUED TO ACTIVATE AND THE CRUISE CONTROL CUT OFF WHEN THE BLINKER WAS ACTIVATED, WHICH DISENGAGED THE CRUISE CONTROL AND SLOWED DOWN THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE ISSUE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 36,000.

INTERMITTENT ELECTRICAL ISSUES WHILE IN MOTION OR AT STOPPED-WHEN USING THE TURN SIGNAL, CRUISE CONTROL, AND BRAKES THE ELECTRICAL PANEL (INCLUDING RADIO, DASH LIGHTS, AND SIGNALS TURN OFF FOR 3-5 SECONDS. AFTER TAKING THE CAPTIVA TO A CHEVROLET GARAGE, THEY SUSPECT THE POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE BATTERY CABLES ARE TO BLAME DUE TO MANY COMPLAINTS ON THIS VEHICLE TYPE. I HAVE NOT YET PROCEEDED WITH REPAIRS AT THIS TIME. THIS HAS BEEN OCCURRING SINCE APPROXIMATELY APRIL 2015.

ON WEDNESDAY, JULY 29, 2015 WHILE DRIVING HOME FROM WORK AROUND 5:30 PM MY CHARGING SYSTEM SIGNAL CAME ON AND MY AC STOPPED WORKING. I FIGURED THE CHARGING SYSTEM SIGNAL WAS AN INDICATION THAT MY AC HAD BROKEN AND I RESOLVED TO SCHEDULE AN APPOINTMENT FOR REPAIR. TEN (10) MINUTES AFTER THE CHARGING SYSTEM SIGNAL CAME ON MULTIPLE SIGNAL LIGHTS ON MY DASHBOARD STARTED FLASHING AND IMMEDIATELY MY CAR LOST ALL POWER AND STARTED DECELERATING. THIS OCCURRED WHILE I WAS DRIVING SEVENTY (70) MILES PER HOUR ON THE FREEWAY DURING RUSH HOUR TRAFFIC. I WAS ALSO IN THE FAR LEFT LANE OF A FOUR LANE HIGHWAY. BY THE GRACE OF GOD I WAS ABLE TO STEER MY CAR TO A RAMP WITHOUT BEING COLLIDING WITH ANOTHER CAR. AFTER EXITING THE FREEWAY I NARROWLY AVOIDED COLLIDING WITH A CAR THAT WAS IN FRONT OF ME AND I SWERVED JUST BARELY AVOIDING...

WAS DRIVING DOWN THE INTERSTATE WHEN MY AIRBAG LIGHT CAME ON. IT STAYED ON FOR 8 MILES THEN SWITCHED OFF. I WAS DOING APPROX 68 MPH WHEN IT CAME ON, TURNED OFF WHEN I SLOWED DOWN AT 50 FOR ROAD CONSTRUCTION. HAD JUST PICKED THE VEHICLE UP FROM THE DEALER THAT MORNING AFTER HAVING A REAR AXLE BOOT/SHAFT SOMETHING LIKE THAT REPLACED UNDER WARRANTY.

MY 2012 CHEVROLET CAPTIVA SPORT 2LS IGNITION SWITCH IS FAULTY. THE KEY IS NOT REMOVABLE FROM IGNITION TO TURN VEHICAL OFF, IT STOPS IN THE ACCESSORY POSITION. SAFTY CONCERN IS THAT THE VEHICLE COULD POSSIBLY BECOME DISABLED NOT ALLOWING RESTART OF ENGINE OR INABILITY FOR THE KEY TO BE REMOVED CAUSING THE VEHICLE TO BE SHIFTED FORM PARK INTO GEAR. IT WOULD ALSO DRAIN THE POWER FROM THE BATTERY NOT ALLOWING IT TO BE RESTARTED. DEALERSHIP IS STATING THAT THERE WAS TO MUCH WEIGHT ON THE KEY RING, ONLY THE FACTORY KEY FOB IS ON THE KEY RING.

I HAD THE EXACT SAME ELECTRICAL PROBLEM AS THE PREVIOUS PERSON. TWICE NOW, WHILE DRIVING THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WOULD FLASH, THE RADIO WOULD GO DEAD AND ALL KINDS OF LIGHTS ON THE DASH WOULD COME ON. CAR MADE IT TO THE HOUSE. COULD NOT TAKE THE KEY OUT OF THE IGNITION. WOULD NOT RESTART. AFTER ABOUT 15 / 20 MINS, THE CAR WOULD START AND EVERYTHING WOULD BE FINE. TOOK IT TO THE DEALER BOTH TIMES, BUT THEY LOOKED AT ME AS IF I WERE CRAZY. THEY KEPT CAR FOR A WEEK AT A TIME AND COULD NOT REPLICATE THE ISSUE. THEY WERE AS STUMPED AS ME. GOOD TO HEAR THAT MY CAR ISN'T THE ONLY ONE TO DO THIS. IT'S BEEN SEVERAL MONTHS SINCE THE LAST INCIDENT. HOPEFULLY IT HAS GONE AWAY. *TR

I BOUGHT THE SUV IN DEC. 2013. SINCE THIS TIME THE CAR HAS FAILED TO START TWICE. EACH TIME I HAD THE BATTERY BOOST AND THE CAR STARTED. I HAVE TAKEN THE TRUCK INTO MUNDAY CHEVERLOT. CHEVY AUTO MECHANICS AND OTHERS HAVE SAID MY BATTERY IS GOOD AND THEY DO NOT KNOW WHY THIS IS HAPPENING. WHEN THE SUV DOES NOT START I CANNOT REMOVE THE KEY. I TRY TO START THE CARS AND NOTHING HAPPENS. WHEN THIS HAPPENS I TRY TO REMOVE THE KEY AND I CANNOT. THE KEY SWITCH WILL NOT GO TO THE LOCK POSITION THEREFORE I CANNOT REMOVE THE KEY. THE REPRESENTATIVE AT THE DEALERSHIP TOLD ME I AM NOT SUPPOSE TO BE ABLE TO REMOVE THE KEY IN THIS TYPE OF SITUATION. NO ONE CAN TELL ME WHY OR WHAT TO DO WHEN THIS PROBLEM OCCURS. *TR