2018 TESLA MODEL 3 Power Train Problems

The front upper control arms on my 2018 Tesla Model 3 have failed multiple times, producing loud clunking, popping, and binding noises during steering. The issue has worsened and poses a serious risk of loss of control while driving. Tesla replaced these parts under goodwill in the past, but the failures have returned. The most recent incident occurred around 03/05/2025 at approximately 106,867 miles. The failure has been confirmed and documented by Tesla Service Centers, and I have multiple invoices showing repeated replacements of the same components. The problem directly affects steering and suspension safety.

I just traded in my vehicle for a Tesla from 3rd party dealership on [XXX] A light came on once I reached my home. I called right away before the dealership closed but no one answered. So I took it upon myself to make a service call to Tesla to get my vehicle checked come to find out my vehicle has extensive damages from my unit drive, my subframe and the battery pack is severe punctures and needs to be replaced. Choice Automotive LLC in Honolulu Hawaii didn’t disclose anything to me before purchasing this vehicle. also they didn’t disclose that this vehicle was in a car accident, but they carried on with the sale. I have pictures of what needs to be repaired. Tesla said, I will need $20,000 to repair these damages. So I’m trying to take legal action against Choice Automotive LLC for selling me a vehicle...

On March 21, 2025, my Tesla Model 3 Long Range entered "Power Reduction Mode" — a safety feature that limits power to protect the high-voltage battery from overheating or failure. Tesla later diagnosed a coolant leak near the battery area. Their own service advisor stated in writing that the failure was “most likely related” to the battery’s thermal management system — the very system responsible for regulating battery temperature and preventing damage. Despite the connection to the battery protection system and the vehicle being under the 8-year/120,000-mile battery warranty, Tesla has refused to cover the repair. The issue remains unresolved, and I have not picked up or approved any repairs on the vehicle. My concern is that driving the vehicle in this state — or leaving this failure unaddressed — could lead to further battery damage or pose a safety risk. I am requesting that NHTSA evaluate this issue as...

Power conversion system (PSC) failure. Only charges at 16 amps. I know other Tesla owners have had this problem as well.

ISSUE: PTC Heater failed at 63,617 miles after 6 years of use WARNING MESSAGE: "Vehicle may not restart" CONTACT: [XXX] [XXX] main contact for owner [XXX] . VIN: [XXX] MAKE: MODEL 3 YEAR: 2018 REPAIR QUOTED: $1,104.18 LINE ITEMS: PTC HEATER DUALZONE(1088218-00-I) HVAC, PTC SERVICEASSY(1107677-00-A) LABOR & DIAGNOSTICS SUMMARY: TESLA Model 3 Electric Vehicle shut down into "Asleep mode" and will not respond (turn back on). Locked out. Will not wake up. Will not respond to software nor car keys. All systems turned off. Will not charge. Will not release charger from charge port. Issue suddenly happened after [XXX] software load (deemed to not be the cause of issue). Dealership diagnostic shows PTC Heater failure which cuts off the battery. Dealership quoted estimated repair (see below). This could have happened while driving causing the vehicle to be uncontrollable, and a major safety issue. Fortunately, my incident happened after I parked...

If both brake and throttle pedals are depressed simultaneously for a fraction of a second the software does two things: 1) raises a warning to that effect on the computer display and, 2) greatly reduces motor output, limiting acceleration. Item two is the safety concern. Removing the foot from the left pedal does not immediately remove the power restriction. There is a few second delay for that to take place. As a result I find myself expecting to be able to merge rapidly or complete a turn, or cross in front of oncoming traffic but am left in a precarious position in traffic unable to move as expected to avoid a potential collision. This is a behavior that I have not experienced with a conventional engine powered vehicle. In addition when this two-foot power-down mode is waiting to clear, and I am sitting stationary on a steep up incline, the...

PTC Heater failed. This is a critical component that helps to maintain the battery's temperature within safe operating range. The only alternative is to replace this PTC Heater. Till the replacement is done, EVs battery may not maintain safe operating temperature range and could cause the car - not drive able. I consider this a significant safety risk. Cabin temperature cannot be maintained as well. Cause for PTC Heater failure is known - "change in temperature" could cause this item to fail per Tesla. i.e. when cold air blows over the heating element. Not sure if enough has been done to fix this from occurring for such a critical component with some hardware or hardware recall for several vehicles on the road. Else these cars must be considered for sales only for few states in the USA which have a stable operating temperature ranges for their PTC heaters to not...

The High Voltage Service Panel is part the battery which is part of the manufacturer warranty and drivetrain. A lot of Tesla cars had this problem and they are being charged $1800 to $2000 to “fix” this common failure. The problem is that the battery stop receiving the full amperage to charge the battery appropriately. In my case, I started charging more frequently on Superchargers during a long trip to different locations without a Level 2 homecharger and stopped several times into the Superchargers of Tesla. A diagram of the drivetrain and Battery system placed the High Voltage Service Panel as part of the battery. I had the problem since the past 2 years and did not fixed it, after I was sent an estimate cost of “repair”. I said that it was part of the battery system and they refused to accept it. As of 2024, I have search...

I don’t feel comfortable driving this car because it is unsafe when I am on autopilot on the highway it would randomly stop the car by breaking instantly out of nowhere when there isn’t any car in front of me?! Please give me another car that is more safe to drive!?

The contact owns a 2018 Tesla Model 3. The contact stated while driving 25 MPH, there was an abnormal sound coming from the vehicle. There was no warning light illuminated. The vehicle was taken to the dealer and the contact was informed that the front upper control arm, and the shifter cable needed to be replaced. The vehicle was repaired. The manufacturer was not contacted. The failure mileage was 39,000.

I was exiting the highway onto a Blvd and I slowed down. The car all of a sudden accelerated by itself, went over the exit curb and hit the central median of the blvd. Fortunately, no vehicles on the blvd wer crossing when this happened. I was fortunately not physically hurt in the incident but it could have been afr worse if I had a vehicle in my front or on the lvd when the incident happened.

The Rear Camera feed was delayed by almost 1 sec resulting in the crash and hitting the shelf while backing the vehicle. The software version which was installed 2023.12 Tesla more and more relying on cameras for ADAS but the Software patches result in lot of random behaviors in the car... Tough being on stable release the Software still buggy and continue to surface random software related bugs In my case the feed from froze for more than a second .. Resulting in the Crash..

This is a report of suddent unintended acceleration on a 2018 Model 3 performance with 47,800 miles on the odometer - the first known occurrence on this car. At 50% state of charge, I drove the Tesla on a 10 minute trip and pulled into an underground parking garage with 3 lanes of valet parking. At about 5-10 MPH, the forward collision warning came on as I was driving towards the cones and stop sign. I brought the vehicle to a full stop with the friction brakes (not regenerative braking, which was set to LOW). The drive mode was set to HOLD, which lets the car roll forward but not backwards and doesn't CREEP when foot is off the brake. About 15-30 seconds after coming to a complete stop, my foot was hovering over the brake with maybe slight pressure up to 5%. The car suddenly lurched forward with wide...

The Power Conversion System is failing, this makes charging the car difficult. The charge rate is reduced and charging fails without warning. There is no warning from the vehicle that the part is failing but instead says the power grid is the issue. The issue started while the car was still under warranty, but falsely claimed the problem was with the evse or the wiring to the evse. Had the failure been properly reported rather than being misleading, the vehicle could have been repaired under warranty,

Originally received notification of DTC "BMS_a035 - Vehicle may not restart." Vehicle was serviced and the rear motor drive unit was replaced. Was not given the oppertunity to inspect the serviced components upon request. Within 48 hours of service, "BMS_a027: Power limited, OK to drive," & BMS_a170 - (de)acceleration warning & top speed warning." My concern is related to a potential cascading problem, which cannot be diagnosed, and which will lead to failure of the propulsion system or an unexpected discharge issue / thermal event from an electrical issue while the vehicle is in use and/or parked.

The car charging is not functioning at certain Amp rating ( 48Amps). Car displays " Power Grid or Vehicle issue limiting the AC charging" and goes to a lower 32Amps charging mode. This could lead to Battery damage and I see that there is a service bulletin asking Tesla to replace "Power Conversion System" (https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/MC-10148850-9999.pdf) but that is limited to a limited time period. But I see several cars manufactured outside of those dates having the issue and this part should be replaced on all cars without a charge to the customers

The contact owns a 2018 Tesla Model 3. The contact stated while driving at a slow speed in ongoing traffic, the vehicle accelerated independently and bumped into the vehicle in front of her lane. The contact stated no warning light was illuminated. The contact stated no one was injured nor sought medical attention. No police report was filed. The contact stated her vehicle did not need any repairs but the other vehicle did. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. A dealer was not contacted about the incident. The contact stated she continued to experience the failure. The contact stated on November 2021, while she was driving at slow speed in a parking lot, the vehicle accelerated independently and she crashed into a concrete post. The contact stated no warning light was illuminated. The contact stated no one was injured nor sought medical attention. No police report was filed. The...

I needed to back up slightly to make room to get our of a parallel parking position. I pressed the brake and put the car into reverse, pressed the accelerator slightly to back up. I then pressed the brake again and put the car into Drive. I then pressed the accelerator slightly to drive off, but the car suddenly accelerated in an uncontrolled manner. I was able to slam on the brakes to prevent an accident. This is not the first time that this type of unintended acceleration has occurred in this vehicle.

I WAS DRIVING MY MODEL 3(IN MOTION) IN THE LEFT LANE OF A 3 LANE LOCAL ROAD (3 LANES EACH DIRECTION). THE CAR SUDDENLY DISPLAYED 2 WARNING LIGHT, "UNABLE TO DRIVE" AND ANOTHER WARNING ABOUT VEHICLE POWERING DOWN, MOVE TO A SAFE LOCATION. THE CAR STOPPED A FEW SECONDS AFTER DISPLAYING THESE WARNINGS. I DID NOT HAVE ENOUGH TIME TO MANEUVER THE CAR TO A SAFE LOCATION. I WAS STUCK ON THE LEFT OF THE BUSY ROADWAY. I WAS OFFERED HELP BY A POLICE OFFICER AND A PEDESTRIAN TO HELP PUSH THE CAR TO SAFETY. I WAS UNABLE TO ENGAGE THE CAR IN NEUTRAL TO ALLOW THE FOLKS HELPING ME TO PUSH THE CAR. THE 2 MAIN MAJOR SAFETY CONCERNS WAS THE VEHICLE SHUTTING DOWN COMPLETELY AND THEN BEING UNABLE TO SHIFT THE VEHICLE TO NEUTRAL TO MOVE IT TO SAFETY. PLEASE INVESTIGATE THIS. MY FAMILY COULD HAVE BEEN IN...

OUR CAR CAUGHT FIRE SITTING IN THE DRIVEWAY OF MY HOUSE. THIS HAPPENED AROUND 4AM IN JAN9, SECURITY FOOTAGE FROM NEIGHBORS HAS BEEN HANDED OVER TO FD AND TESLA ENGINEERING TEAM. THE LAST TRIP WAS 10 HOURS PRIOR TO PARKING THE CAR. WE ARE LUCKY IT WAS NOT IN THE GARAGE OR CHARGING, THE DAMAGE COULD HAVE BEEN MORE THAN A FEW BROKEN WINDOWS, AS SOON AS WE SAW THE FIRE WE CALLED THE FD, THEY PUT OUT THE FIRE WITHIN 15 MINUTES.

WHILE I WAS PARKING, THE CAR IT UNEXPECTEDLY ACCELERATED AND JUMP OVER THE SIDE WALK AND CRASH ITSELF INTO THE BUILDING AND DESTROYED THE FACE OF THE BUILDING AND THE CAR. THE AIR BAGS DEPLOYED FROM THE IMPACT OF THE CAR.

MY WIFE ( DRIVER FOR OVER 40 YEARS, NO ACCIDENTS, NO TICKETS) WAS STOPPED AT A TRAFFIC LIGHT ON A DOWNGRADE, FOOT ON THE BRAKE, IN OUR BRAND NEW TESLA MODEL 3 WHEN IT SUDDENLY BEGAN TO MOVE FORWARD AND CRASHED INTO CARS STOPPED AT THE LIGHT IN FRONT OF HER. MY WIFE TRIED DESPERATELY TO STOP THE TESLA WITH THE BRAKES AND EMERGENCY BRAKE. OU CAR WAS STOPPED BY THE CAR IN FRONT. I HATE TO THINK OF WHAT COULD HAVE HAPPENED HAD THERE NOT BEEN CAR IN FRONT. WE PURCHASED THE TESLA IN DECEMBER OF 2018 AND THE CRASH OCCURRED IN FEBRUARY OF 2019. AFTER THE CRASH I CALLED TESLA, THEN I WENT TO THEIR SHOWROOM IN SAN DIEGO, THEY REFERRED ME TO TESLALEGAL.COM. SO I ASKED MY ATTORNEY TO HELP. IN THE MEANTIME, AFTER THE TESLA WAS RELEASED FROM THE BODY SHOP IT WAS SENT TO THE...

ON 04/13/2019 THE CAR ABRUPT STOPPED IN THE MIDDLE OF THE ROAD WHILE I DROVE IT ALONG NORTHBOND SANTA RITA ROAD IN PLEASANTON CA. . CARS COMING FROM BEHIND HAD TO MAKE URGENT BRAKING OR LANE CHANGE TO AVOID HITTING US. MY YOUNG CHILD WAS CRYING IN HORROR, AND WE HAVE NO WAY TO GET OURSELF TO SAFETY WITH THE CAR TOTALLY UNABLE TO MOVE. WE CALLED 911, AND LOCAL POLICE WAS DISPATCH TO HELP OTHER CARD AVOIDING HITTING US, WHILE WE WAITING FOR TOW TRUCK TO ARRIVE. THE CAR WAS UNRESPONSIVE FOR ABOUT 20 MINUTES, WITH THE DISPLAY SHOWING MESSAGES: "UNABLE TO DRIVE, PULL OVER TO SAFETY. CAR SHUTTING DOWN". THE CAR RESUMED OPERATIONAL AFTER ABOUT 20 MINUTES, WITHOUT ANY NOTICEABLE CHANGE. I DROVE THE CAR TO NEAREST SERVICE CENTER (PLEASANTON CA). AFTER A FEW DAYS, I WAS CONTACT BY THE SERVICE CENTER STATING THE CAR CAN BE PICKED...

VEHICLE HAS A "BRAKE HOLD" FEATURE. THIS FEATURE IS ENGAGED WHEN THE VEHICLE IS IN GEAR, STOPPED, AND THEN THE BRAKE PEDAL IS DEPRESSED AN ADDITIONAL DISTANCE. THIS FEATURE KEEPS THAT VEHICLE AT A STANDSTILL WITHOUT A NEED TO CONTINUE TO DEPRESS THE BRAKE PEDAL. PER THE INSTRUCTION MANUAL, BRAKE HOLD CAN BE RELEASED BY PRESSING THE ACCELERATOR, BRAKE, OR BY SHIFTING THE VEHICLE INTO "NEUTRAL". THE RIGHT STEERING COLUMN STALK, HOWEVER, CAN BE USED TO SWITCH THE VEHICLE FROM BRAKE HOLD INTO THE OPPOSITE TRAVEL DIRECTION (D TO R OR R TO D) BY MOVING THE STALK TO THAT SETTING. FOR EXAMPLE, A VEHICLE IN D WITH THE BRAKE HOLD ENGAGED, CAN BE SHIFTED INTO R BY MOVING THE RIGHT STALK FULLY UPWARD (TO THE "R" SETTING). THIS BEHAVIOR, I BELIEVE, SHOULD BE PROHIBITED UNLESS THE VEHICLE IS FIRST PLACED INTO "P" OR "N".

THE VEHICLE WAS PARKED. BUT WOULDN'T MOVE TO GEAR (DRIVE OR REVERSE). IT WAS GIVING THE MESSAGE "CANNOT MAINTAIN VEHICLE POWER". HAD I LOST THE POWER WHILE DRIVING, IT WOULD HAVE BEEN A CLEAR SAFETY ISSUE.

RE: 2018 TESLA MODEL 3: VIN# [XXX] WE WANT TO CLARIFY THE POWERTRAIN OF THIS VIN # IS STANDARD DUAL MOTOR OR PERFORMANCE DUAL MOTOR; AS ALL THE PAPER WORKS INDICATED THAT THE POWERTRAIN IS STANDARD DUAL MOTOR; BUT THE FINAL CONTRACT STATED IT'S PERFORMANCE DUAL MOTOR; SO THE PRICE DIFFERENCE IS $10K HIGHER. THANK YOU IN ADVANCE FOR CONFIRMATION OF THE ACTUAL POWERTRAIN TYPE OF VIN# [XXX] UPON RECEIPT OF THIS REQUEST. SINCERELY, [XXX] INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6). *CC *TR