2017 SUBARU FORESTER Power Train Problems

After traveling for unknown number of miles on repeated occasions, arriving at the destinations to the smell of burning oil. Smell was evident while driving as well. Subaru was able to diagnose this issue to a leaking CVT pump seal causing CVT fluid to leak and run down on top of the transmission pan onto the hot exhaust system. Subaru has acknowledge this is an issue back in 2016 due to the sealant us from the factory. Customer was quoted $1400 for the repair this known issue. Vehicle had 90,000 miles at the time of occurrence.

The contact owns a 2017 Subaru Forester. The contact stated while operating the vehicle and depressing the accelerator pedal, the vehicle wound not properly accelerate. The failure also occurred while accelerating from a complete stop. The vehicle was taken to the local dealer who determined that the transmission was faulty and needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not yet repaired. The manufacturer was notified of the failure, but no assistance was provided. The failure mileage was 150,000.

The contact owns a 2017 Subaru Forester. The contact stated while driving 60 MPH, the contact stated that all four wheels seized. The contact stated that the transmission had seized. The contact stated that the failure occurred while driving on a busy highway. The contact stated that the driver of a big truck assisted by stopping the oncoming traffic. The contact stated that a tow truck and the Police arrived on the scene. The contact stated that the tow truck driver was unable to load the vehicle onto the tow truck. The tow truck driver had to drag the vehicle onto the tow truck. The vehicle was towed to an independent mechanic; however, the vehicle had not been diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 117,000.

After driving the vehicle I will arrive at my destination. I will stop, continue pressing the vehicle break while moving the shifter from drive to park. Then, I turn the key to the off position in an attempt to remove my key from the Ignition. About 40-50% of the time, the key can not be removed. In order remove the key I will have to do one of the following: Option 1. Let my foot of of the break, pause, then press my foot hard on the break peddle, move to shifter from park to drive, while continuing to press my foot down hard on the break peddle, move the shifter back from drive to the park position. Often I will have to repeat this process several times to remove the key form the ignition or attempt Option 2.. Option 2. When Option 1 above does not work, with the...

automatic transmission shifting sluggish

The contact owns a 2017 Subaru Forester. The contact stated while driving at an undisclosed speed, the vehicle made an abnormally loud sound. The oil temperature, ABS, and traction control warning lights were illuminated. Additionally, the AWD failed to operate, and only the FWD was operable. The vehicle had previously been at the dealer for an air conditioner repair, and the dealer reset the warning lights; however, the failure recurred. Additionally, the rear wheel bearings, and valve body solenoid were previously replaced. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was 154,095.

The contact owns a 2017 Subaru Forester. The contact stated while driving approximately 50 MPH, the vehicle suddenly stalled. The contact veered to the side of the road and turned off the vehicle. There were no warning lights illuminated. The vehicle was towed to the dealer where the transmission clutch was replaced. However, the failure reoccurred while driving approximately 30 MPH, and the vehicle had 95,000 miles. The vehicle was towed to the dealer who diagnosed that the transmission clutch, the ball bearings, and the flywheel needed to be replaced. The vehicle had not been repaired. The manufacturer was made aware of the failure. The approximate failure mileage was 50,000.

The contact owns a 2017 Subaru Forester. The contact stated while driving over 60 MPH, the vehicle would shudder and produce a loud noise coming from the engine compartment. The vehicle was taken to a local dealer where it was diagnosed and determined that the lower control arm bushing and transmission pan needed to be replaced. The vehicle was not repaired. The manufacturer was not informed of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 70,000.

Making a sharp turn going slightly uphill from a full stop, the car moves forward enough to enter the intersection and then there is no throttle response. The car does not respond at all to the accelerator peddle. The engine does not stall but rpm drop to idle speed. After a few seconds, throttle response returns. Very dangerous as you move onto a highway because the car lingers in the intersection while the car behaves as if it has totally lost power. This has happened repeatedly but at random times.

The contact owns a 2017 Subaru Forester. The contact stated that while attempting to shift gear into reverse, the vehicle made a strange noise, then lunged forward inadvertently. The vehicle's front driver-side tire ran over the contact's daughter's upper legs. The contact's daughter received medical attention on the scene for injuries sustained to her legs and was now receiving physical therapy. A police report was filed. The vehicle was appraised by the insurance company for front-end damage and was repaired by an auto collision center. The dealer and manufacturer were not made aware of the failure. The failure mileage was approximately 90,000. The VIN was not available.

My 2017 Subaru Forester has 52,000 miles driven. Recently the ignition key will NOT turn to start the engine. The transmission was in park and all the doors were fully closed. After 15 minutes trying several times to no avail it did finally turn to the right and the engine started. Also, previously a few times, randomly, the key would not turn all the way to to the left to turn the engine off. Again, the car was in park and I kept my foot on the brake while trying. Each time this happened I had to move the transmission from Part to Drive and back to Park again, (while keeping my foot on the brake) and the key finally turned all the way to turn the engine off. I am now bringing the car to a Subaru dealer service shop (in Annapolis, Maryland) to try to have them repair...

Once vehicle is stopped, transmission shifted to Park, and ignition key turned to off, ignition key will not come out of ignition. This has happened 8-19 times. Driver must start car, put in drive then back in park, turn off then key can be removed. I understand TSB 16-112-18R addresses this issue known to Subaru. It has not been inspected by a mechanic.

I BOUGHT A CERTIFIED PRE-OWNED 2017 SUBARU FORESTER ON JUNE 19 2020. I HAVE HAD AN INTERMITTENT SAFETY ISSUE WITH THE VEHICLE NOT RESPONDING CORRECTLY WHEN I TRY TO ACCELERATE SINCE. WHEN I PRESS THE GAS PEDAL THE CAR WILL BEGIN TO ACCELERATE WITH MY RPMS RISING NORMALLY. THEN MY RPMS WILL START TO DROP WHEN THEY WOULD NORMALLY RISE AND MY CAR STOPS OR MAINTAINS THE ACCELERATION PRIOR. ONCE THEY HAVE DROPPED THEY WILL STAY THERE FOR A LITTLE AND THEN WILL SHOOT UP SUDDENLY AND RED LINE. I HAVE TRIED A VARIETY OF THINGS TO PREVENT THIS FROM HAPPENING; I HAVE TAKEN MY FOOT OFF THE GAS, KEPT THE SAME OR MORE PRESSURE ON THE GAS, AND BREAKING. REGARDLESS OF WHAT I DO THE VEHICLE RED LINES AND MY SPEED WILL EITHER DROP OR STAY THE SAME. I HAVE TAKEN THE VEHICLE TO SUBARU DEALERSHIPS ON 3 SEPARATE...

REFERENCE SUBARU TSB # 16-103-16R, REVISION 08/29/19. I PULLED SCREENSHOTS, BUT I HAVE A FULL VIDEO CLIP OF THE LEAK DESCRIBED IN THIS BULLETIN AND SUBARU IS DENYING COVERAGE BECAUSE THEIR DEALERSHIPS ARE NOT EQUIPPED WITH THE PROPER TOOLS OR DO NOT EMPLOY TRAINED TECHNICIANS IN ORDER TO PROPERLY DIAGNOSE THE ISSUE.

HAVE A 2017 FORESTER. AT LEAST A COUPLE TIMES A WEEK, THE KEY GET STUCK IN THE IGNITION. YOU CAN TURN THE CAR OFF, BUT YOU CAN'T REMOVE THE KEY. IF I START THE CAR BACK UP, AND SHIFT IT INTO DRIVE, AND THEM SLAM IT BACK INTO PARK, THEN I CAN TURN THE CAR OFF AND REMOVE THE KEY.

AFTER 20K MILES, TRANSMISSION HESITATES MORE AND MORE. BE CAREFUL AND TRY TO AVOID SITUATIONS WHERE YOU HAVE TO ACCELERATE QUICKLY. THE CAR DOES NOT MOVE OR ACCELERATE WHEN YOU HIT THE GAS PEDAL QUICKLY. CVT SLIPS, ESPECIALLY FROM REVERSE TO DRIVE. AT SLOW SPEEDS, IT JERKS THE CAR TRYING TO FIND THE RIGHT GEAR. THE PROBLEM BEGAN UNDER 10K MILES, AND I TOOK IT TO A LOCAL DEALERSHIP, THEY TOLD ME THAT IS HOW THE CAR DRIVES AND TOLD ME IT IS NORMAL. THIS IS NOT MY FIRST FORESTER, BUT DEFINITELY THE WORST. I CALLED SUBARU AMERICA, AND THEY SAID THERE IS NO KNOWN PROBLEM WHIT THEIR TRANSMISSION. I ALMOST GOT KILLED IN A HIGHWAY STOP AND GO SITUATION, WHERE I HAD TO ACCELERATE AFTER A SLOWDOWN, AND THE CAR DECIDED NOT TO. IF YOU OWN ONE, BE CAREFUL.

MY FIANC AND I BOUGHT THIS CAR AND WE WERE TOLD IT WAS NOT AN ACCIDENT, AFTER WE PURCHASED IT WE FOUND OUT THAT IT HAD BEEN IN 2 ACCIDENTS AND DURING DRIVING 1 NIGHT IT BUCKED REAL HARD AND WOULD NOW ACCELERATE AND IT SCARED BOTH OF US. SO THE NEXT DAY I TOOK IT TO CENTER SUBARU IN TORRINGTON CONNECTICUT TO GET IT INSPECTED, DURING THE TRIP TO THE DEALER IT HAD BUCKED THREE MORE TIMES VIOLENTLY. I TOLD THEM ABOUT IT AND THEY COULD NOT FIND ANY CODES IN THE SYSTEM, I SPOKE WITH THE MECHANIC LATER AND HE SAID IF IT DOESN'T THROW TROUBLE CODES IT HAS SERIOUS ISSUES IN THE COMPUTER. I EXPLAINED THAT IT WAS IN A TWO ACCIDENTS AND HE GOES I WOULD EXPLAIN A LOT, HIS OFF THE BOOKS RECOMMENDATION TO ME WAS GET RID OF THE VEHICLE AND FIND SOMETHING ELSE....

WHEN SHIFTING VEHICLE FROM REVERSE TO PARK, THEN TURNING VEHICLE OFF, THE KEY CANNOT BE FULLY TAKEN OUT OF THE CAR. THE ONLY WAY TO GET IT OUT IS TO RESTART THE VEHICLE, TAKE IT OUT OF PARK AND SLAM IT BACK INTO PARK. SUPPOSEDLY A SWITCH WITHIN THE SHIFTER THAT PREVENTS A SOLENOID IN THE STEERING COLUMN FROM OPENING. THIS IS ALL COVERED ON TSB 16-112-18 AND THERE ARE A LOT OF PEOPLE COMPLAINING ABOUT THE ISSUE ONLINE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2017 SUBARU FORESTER. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE APPLYING THE BRAKES AT SPEEDS SLOWER THAN 5 MPH, THE VEHICLE SURGED FORWARD. THE CONTACT STATED THAT EXTRA EFFORT WAS NEEDED WHILE DEPRESSING THE BRAKE PEDAL TO SLOW AND STOP THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO BE DIAGNOSED NOR REPAIRED. NEITHER THE DEALER NOR THE MANUFACTURER WERE NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 23,000.

CVT TRANSMISSION FAILED AFTER 24000 MILES.

WHEN BREAKING, THE CAR ACELLERATED ON A CITY STREET AND A SECOND TIME IN A VERY BUSY PARKING LOT! FORTUATELY THERE WAS NO ACCIDENT> HAD THE CAR TOWED TO THE DEALER WHO LATER REPORTED THAT THEY FOUND NOTHING WRONG WITH THE CAR. I WILL NOT DRIVE THIS CAR UNTILL MORE IS INVESTIGATED.

I WAS DRIVING ON THE HIGH WAY FOR ABOUT 2 HOURS, 70 MPH, GAS WAS AT ABOUT 1/8 FULL, BUT LOW GAS LIGHT ON. THE GEAR SHIFTER REMAINED IN D AND THE INDICATOR ON THE DASH SAID D. THE ENGINE REVVED AS IF IT WERE IN NEUTRAL AND WOULD NOT PROVIDE POWER TO THE WHEELS. THE CHECK ENGINE, TRACTION CONTROL, AND CRUISE CONTROL LIGHTS CAME ON, ALONG WITH POSSIBLY OTHERS. THE CAR BEGAN TO SLOW SINCE IT WAS JUST REVVING IN WHAT APPEARED TO BE NEUTRAL WHILE THE GAS PEDAL WAS PRESSED. EVENTUALLY I MADE IT TO THE SHOULDER. I TURNED THE CAR OFF FOR ABOUT 15 SECONDS THEN STARTED IT AGAIN. IT STRUGGLED TO START FOR A MOMENT LIKE THE BATTERY WAS LOW OR IT WAS COLD OUTSIDE, BUT STILL STARTED ON THE FIRST TRY. I SHIFTED INTO D AND BEGAN TO MOVE ON THE SHOULDER, BUT WHEN THE...

SINCE I HAVE BOUGHT THE CAR I'VE BEEN HAVING ELECTRICAL ISSUES WITH IT IT'S ALWAYS SAYING THAT A KEY IS NOT DETECTED EVEN THOUGH THE KEYS RIGHT NEXT TO IT OR UNDERNEATH THAT THEY ALREADY HAS BEEN A TRANSMISSION LEAKAGE ALSO THE BALANCE OF THE CAR HAS BEEN OFF-BALANCE SO I HAD TO TAKE IT BACK TO THEM WHEN THE AIR CONDITIONER WAS ON WHEN IT WAS SUMMER IS THERE MAKING A WEIRD NOISE I RECORDED THE NOISE I SHOWED IT TO THE DEALER AND THEY SAID THAT THEY COULDN'T FIND ANYTHING WRONG WITH THAT EVEN THOUGH I HAVE PROOF THAT THERE WAS SOMETHING WRONG WITH IT BUT I JUST DIDN'T KNOW WHERE WAS COMING FROM ALSOALSO A LITTLE CRACK ON THE WINDSHIELD RANDOMLY CAME OUT LIKE ABOUT THREE WEEKS AGO AND NEVER HAD AN ISSUE WITH THAT UNTIL NOW AND WHEN I START OUT MY CAR AND I HAD...

ON A LONG TRIPS (200 MILES OF INTERSTATE DRIVING) THE CAR LOSES IT'S ABILITY TO MAINTAIN HIGHWAY SPEED. THE ACCELERATOR PEDDLE DOES NOT WORK AND VEHICLE SLOWS DOWN TO IDLE. YOU HAVE TO PULL OFF THE ROAD AND STOP. PUT THE CAR IN PARK AND THEN BACK IN TO DRIVE. IT WORKS AFTER THAT. DURING THE FAILURE YOU LOSE ALL ABILITY TO MAINTAIN SPEED. IT HAS HAPPENED ABOUT 3 TIMES IN THE PAST YEAR. THE DEALER CHECKED OUT THE CAR AND NOT CODES ARE SHOWN. THANKS, [XXX] INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6).' *PM

ON THREE SEPARATE OCCASIONS THUS FAR, WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 70 MPH ON INTERSTATE 93 IN MASSACHUSETTS AND NEW HAMPSHIRE, MY 2017 SUBARU FORESTER TOURING (WITH 21K MILES) LOST POWER AND COMPLETELY SHUTDOWN. ALL THREE TIMES, I WAS LUCKILY ABLE TO STEER THE VEHICLE TO SAFETY WHILE AVOIDING OTHER MOTOR VEHICLES AND NEITHER MYSELF, MY PASSENGERS NOR ANYONE ELSE AROUND US WAS HURT. WHEN THE VEHICLE DECIDES TO SHUTDOWN, IT FEELS LIKE THE CAR DROPS ITSELF INTO NEUTRAL, THE RPMS SHOOT UP TO ABOUT 4500-5000 AND ALL OF THE LIGHTS ON THE DASHBOARD LIGHT UP. THERE IS ABOUT A FIVE SECOND WINDOW TO STEER THE VEHICLE TO SAFETY FROM WHEN YOU FIRST DETECT THAT THE ISSUE IS OCCURRING. AFTER WAITING FOR ABOUT 45 MINUTES AFTER THE INCIDENT, I AM ABLE TO START THE CAR BACK UP AND DRIVE IT. THIS IS A SERIOUS SAFETY CONCERN OF MINE (AND IT IS TERRIFYING...

WHILE ON DRIVING 65MPH ON THE HIGHWAY DURING THE EVENING RUSH HOUR AND SUDDENLY MY ACCELERATOR WAS UNRESPONSIVE IN THAT THE RPMS JUST REVVED (AS IF THE TRANSMISSION WAS SHIFTED TO NEUTRAL). I HAVE TWO SMALL, CHILDREN 2 YEAR OLD AND 6 MONTHS, AND HAD TO QUICKLY COAST OVER TO THE SHOULDER AND WAS ABLE TO EXIT THE HIGHWAY. THE VEHICLE SHUT OFF WHILE EXITING THE RAMP AND I HAD TO CALL 911 AND REQUEST AN EMERGENCY VEHICLE TO PARK BEHIND ME FOR MY SAFETY AS I WAS UNABLE TO PULL COMPLETELY OVER BEFORE THE VEHICLE STOPPED. I ATTEMPTED TO RESTART THE VEHICLE BUT WAS UNSUCCESSFUL. I HAD THE VEHICLE TOWED AND AM STILL RESEARCHING HOW TO REPAIR. I HAD A 3 YEAR 36K MILE WARRANTY THAT HAS RECENTLY EXPIRED SINCE I'M CURRENTLY AT 46K MILES. THIS IS A SERIOUS CONCERN AS I'M FINDING THAT MY MODEL HAS NOT BEEN...

OUR DEFECTIVE, NOW DISCONTINUED MODEL, NEW 2017 SUBARU FORESTER XT TOURING HAS BROKEN DOWN WHILE ACCELERATING ON THE HIGHWAY TWICE DUE TO A FAULTY PISTON THUS LEADING TO OUR ENGINE BEING REPLACED. THE FIRST TIME THE CAR WAS MOVING EAST ON I-70 IN COLORADO AND LUCKILY MY HUSBAND WAS ABLE TO VEER IN THE MEDIAN OF AN EXIT RAMP. THE SECOND TIME WE WERE TRAVELING EAST ON I-70 AGAIN AND LUCKILY WERE ABLE TO PULL OFF ON THE SIDE OF THE FREEWAY. THIS ALL BEGAN AT 22,352 MILES AND TO-DATE THE "MARKET VALUE" OF REPAIRS HAS ACCUMULATED TO $16,100.00. THIS SAME ENGINE ISSUE HAS HAPPENED TWO YEARS IN A ROW, YET A SUBARU REPRESENTATIVE [VERBALLY, NOT WRITTEN] MENTIONED TO US THAT IT IS CHEAPER FOR SUBARU TO FIX VEHICLE BY VEHICLE THAT COMES IN INSTEAD OF ISSUING A NATION-WIDE RECALL ON OUR MODEL. WE WERE TOLD OUR FORESTER XT [MINI...

AFTER FULL STOP ENGINE OR DRIVE TRAIN LOST POWER ON SHARP LEFT TURN.RESUMED POWER IN 2-3 SECONDS.ENGINE DID NOT STALL AND DID NOT REQUIRE RESTARTING.HAS OCCURED 5-7 TIMES.

DRIVING IN THE FREEWAY AROUND 20-30MPH, SOME TRAFFIC. ON THE WAY TO DROPPING DAUGHTERS OFF TO SCHOOL. ON THE FREEWAY SWITCHED LANES THEN CAR LOST POWER AND DECELERATED ON ITS OWN QUICKLY FROM 20MPH TO ABOUT 1MPH, PRESSING THE DIDN'T DO ANYTHING. ALMOST GOT HIT BY THE REAR DRIVER BEHIND ME. MANAGED TO MOVE TO RIGHT LANE. PRESSING THE GAS PEDAL DID NOTHING, SEVERAL LIGHTS ON THE DASHBOARD APPEARED WHICH INCLUDED CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, TRACTION CONTROL, OIL LIGHT. TURNED OFF THE CAR TO FIND THE NUMBER FOR TOWING ABOUT 15 MINUTES LATER TURNED ON THE CAR AND THIS TIME PRESSING THE GAS PEDAL MADE THE CAR GO, DASHBOARD LIGHTS STILL ON. TOOK THE CAR DIRECTLY TO THE DEALERSHIP. DEALER CLAIMED IT WAS A BAD CELL ON THE BATTERY THAT CAUSED THE PROBLEM, AND ALSO REPROGRAMMED THE COMPUTER. BAD CELL ON BATTERY WILL NOT CAUSE THIS TO HAPPEN. DEALER ALSO FAILED...

THE POWER FAILED IN TRAFFIC ON CITY STREETS WITHOUT WARNING WHILE DRIVING AND ALMOST CAUSED AN ACCIDENT. IT FIRST HAPPENED WHEN MY WIFE WAS DRIVING IN TRAFFIC AND IT HAPPENED TO ME ALSO IN TRAFFIC WHO WAS ABOUT TO MAKE A TURN.THE CAR IS VERY DANGEROUS TO DRIVE. TOOK IT TO A DEALERSHIP AND THEY ARE TRYING TO FIND THE PROBLEM.

I HAVE OWNED MANY SUBARU`S AND HAVE NOT HAD ANY ISSUES WITH THE TRANSMISSIONS. MY NEW 2017 FORESTER HAS AN ISSUE SHIFTING GEARS. ALTHOUGH IT HAS ONLY HAPPENED ONCE, THE TIME IT HAPPENED WAS PRETTY SCARY. AS I WAS SLOWING DOWN AT A RED LIGHT THE LIGHT CHANGED TO GREEN BEFORE I MADE A COMPLETE STOP. AT THIS POINT I THEN ACCELERATED THE CAR BUT THE TRANSMISSION WOULD NOT SWITCH GEAR. I THEN THOUGHT I HAD THE CAR IN MANUAL MODE BUT IT WASN'T. I HAD TO SLOW ALL THE WAY DOWN TO GET THE TRANSMISSION TO SHIFT AGAIN. THIS ALL HAPPENED WHILE TURNING. THE DRIVER BEHIND US HAD TO SWERVE AROUND OUR CAR TO AVOID HITTING US BECAUSE I WAS GOING TO SLOW WHEN THE LIGHT WAS GREEN. THIS ISSUE PUT MY FAMILY AND MYSELF IN DANGER WHEN DRIVING ON THE ROAD. I SPOKE WITH SUBARU BUT THEY SAID...

VEHICLES BATTERY HAS SLOW CRANKING POWER, SINCE NEW CURRANT MILES ARE 47,800 TODAY VEHICLES SLOW TO START ,ONCE STARTED ALL ENGINE WARNING LIGHTS ILLUMINATE AND STAY ON AND VEHICLE WILL NOT DRIVE IN FORWARD OR REVERSE, REPLACED BATTERY WITH NEW AND VEHICLE STARTED NORMAL AND STRONG, PUT INTO DRIVE AND VEHICLE DROVE NORMAL, PUT INTO REVERSE AND AGAIN VEHICLE WILL NOT DRIVE FORWARD OR REVERSES, VEHICLE IN IN DEALERSHIP REPAIR FACILITIES AT THIS TIME, PROBLEM UNKNOWN,

VEHICLE OFTEN SHUDDERS VIOLENTLY AT LOW SPEEDS COMING TO A STOP - STALLING ITSELF ONCE. WHEN MERGING ONTO FREEWAY OR OVERTAKING ON THE HIGHWAY THE VEHICLE OCCASIONALLY MAKES LOUD CLICKING NOISE AND AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION ACTS AS IF IT IS DISENGAGED (LIKE A FULLY DEPRESSED CLUTCH PEDAL IN A MANUAL, AND ENGINE STILL REVS). TOOK TO SUBARU DEALER MULTIPLE TIMES AND RECEIVED THE "WE CAN'T REPLICATE IT SO THERE IS NO PROBLEM" FEEDBACK - DEALER ALSO CLAIMS THERE ARE NO ERROR CODES. CONTACTED SUBARU OF AMERICA (SOA) DIRECTLY AND WAS INSTRUCTED BY SOA TO TRUST DEALER'S DIAGNOSIS. ONLINE FORUMS AND INDEPENDENT MECHANICS BELIEVE MY ISSUE IS A BAD TORQUE CONVERTER OR SOME ISSUE WITH THE AUTOMATIC CVT TRANSMISSION - A SIMILAR ISSUE CONSUMER GROUPS HAVE ACCUSED SUBARU FOR ON PREVIOUS GENERATIONS OF MY VEHICLE. (SEE FORBES ARTICLE DESCRIBING SIMILAR ISSUE: HTTPS://WWW.FORBES.COM/SITES/JENSEN/2017/09/07/CONSUMER-GROUPS-SUBARU-SHOULD-RECALL-TRANSMISSIONS-NOT-JUST-EXTEND-WARRANTY/#352E23E0AB27)

AFTER ANY DRIVING IN HOT WEATHER, SMELL OF COOLANT IN RIGHT SIDE OF ENGINE COMPARTMENT

CANNOT TURN OFF DISTRACTION OF A NOISY STEREO WHILE GEAR SELECTOR IS IN REVERSE. I BELIEVE THIS IS AN INTENTIONAL DESIGN FEATURE THAT ALWAYS HAPPENS.

CAR STALLS, MOSTLY IN INTERSECTIONS WHEN WE TURN EITHER LEFT OR RIGHT, MID-TURN. ALSO, THE STEERING WHEEL, PLASTIC, IS DANGEROUSLY-SLIPPERY, EXPECIALLY DURING THOSE STALLS IN HEAVY TRAFFIC WHEN PANIC SETS IN.

FORESTER - 500 MILES - CONSISTENT AND CONTINUING PROBLEMS: CAR LURCHES FORWARD ON ITS OWN IN FIRST GEAR. - IN MOTION ENGINE NOT ONLY HAS EXCESSIVE (CAN LAST 5 SECONDS OR MORE) "REV-HANGS" SHIFTING UP FROM ANY GEAR BUT ACTUALLY INCREASES BY 700-900 RPMS. THIS HAS CAUSED DIFFICULTY IN SLOWING DOWN (REDUCING SPEED WITH DOWNSHIFT). WHEN USING BRAKE TO REDUCE SPEED WHEN THIS OCCURS, THE ENGINE WILL BEGIN TO RACE, INCREASING UP TO 1500 OR MORE RPMS, DIFFICULT TO CONTROL VEHICLE. - IN MOTION 4TH GEAR - STICK SHIFT VIBRATES EXCESSIVELY - SO MUCH SO IT IS VISIBLE TO THE EYE AND SEEMS LIKE IT WILL HAVE TO WEAR OUT FROM THE FRICTION, - IN MOTION (INTERMITTENT) WHEN VEHICLE DYNAMICS CONTROL ENGAGES ON UPWARD INCLINE A VERY LOUD (MULTIPLE) BANGING OCCURS AT THE REA CAR LURCHES . - TURNING, IN MOTION. ENGINE NOISE IS EXTREMELY LOUD COMPARED TO OTHER 2017...

ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH 6-SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION: WHEN SHIFTING GEARS, ENGINE SPEED INCREASES TO 4000-4500 RPM WHILE CLUTCH IS DEPRESSED, DESPITE HAVING FOOT ENTIRELY OFF THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL. RPM REMAINS ELEVATED FOR 5 TO 10 SECONDS BEFORE SLOWLY RETURNING TO NORMAL IDLE. ON OTHER OCCASIONS, ENGINE SPEED WILL INCREASE TO APPROXIMATELY 2500 RPM WHILE SITTING WITH THE CLUTCH DEPRESSED AND FOOT OFF ACCELERATOR (FOR EXAMPLE, WHILE WAITING FOR A TRAFFIC LIGHT). DOES NOT SEEM TO BE A "RUNAWAY" CONDITION: THE ENGINE SPEED NEVER APPROACHES REDLINE, BUT INCREASES SMOOTHLY TO THE "TARGET" RPM, STAYS CONSTANT FOR AWHILE, THEN SMOOTHLY RETURNS TO IDLE. NOTE: OTHER 2017 FORESTER OWNERS HAVE REPORTED SIMILAR BEHAVIOR. SUBARU IS INVESTIGATING, BUT AT PRESENT IS SAYING, "IT'S NOT A BUG, IT'S A FEATURE." AFTER 50 YEARS OF DRIVING SCORES OF VEHICLES WITH MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS, I DISAGREE.

11/23/16 - AS I WAS SLOWLY ROLLING INTO A FRONT PARKING SPOT THE CAR ACCELERATED ON IT'S OWN - I TURNED THE WHEEL TO THE LEFT SO I WOULDN'T CRASH FULL ON INTO THE BUILDING - TRYING TO CONTROL THE CAR - I WENT OVER A CURB THAT WAS JETTING OUT - DEFINING THE PARKING SPACES - MY RIGHT FRONT AND BACK TIRES WENT OVER THE CURB - JUST MISSING A TREE - FINALLY COMING TO A STOP - IF THERE WAS ANYONE THERE - I WOULD HAVE HIT THEM - THAT DAY I TOOK THE CAR TO THE SUBARU DEALER AND TOLD THEM WHAT HAPPENED - AND ON MY PAPERWORK IT STATED "CUSTOMER STATES SUBARU SEEMS TO ACCELERATE ON ITS OWN - TECH FOUND NO CODES. TECH DROVE VEHICLE AND COULD NOT DUPLICATE"