2008 FORD EDGE Electronic Stability Control Esc Problems

SPEEDOMETER DROPPED TO 0 WRENCH LIGHT CAME ON CAR HAD ALMOST NO POWER MADE LOUD NOISE THEN AIRBAG LIGHT CAME ON AND TIRE PRESSURE WARNING.

"TAKATA RECALL" I WAS DRIVING MY CHILD TO SCHOOL IN HIGHWAY TRAFFIC, SPEEDS OF 55 MPH. THE CAR MILEAGE INDICATORS WENT BLANK, A WRENCH LIGHT CAME ON AND ALL POWER TO CAR WAS LOST DURING TURNING A CURVE ON HIGHWAY.VEHICLE STARTED MAKING VERY LOUD POPPING NOISE AND JERKING THE CAR. TURNED CAR OFF AFTER COMING TO A STOP, RESTARTED CAR, NO WARNING LIGHTS, EVERYTHING WAS NORMAL EXCEPT, WHEN STARTING CAR, IT MADE VERY LOUD NOISE AS IT WAS STARTED, THEN AS I PLACED IN DRIVE OR REVERSE IT MOVED THE VEHICLE JERKING AN LOUD POPPING NOISE. THE ENTIRE MOTOR MOVED SIDEWAYS WHEN PLACED IN GEAR AN HOOD UP. ALSO NOW IT NO LONGER WORKS IN LOW GEAR. ONCE PLACED ON MACHINE IT GAVE CODE PO720-722

DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY SUDDENLY SPEEDOMETER/ODOMETER STOPPED WORKING, LOW TIRE PRESSURE LIGHT CAME ON AND CAR ACCELERATION DROPPED AND IT WOULDN'T RESPOND TO INCREASED PRESSURE ON GAS PEDAL. CAR WOULD NOT ACCELERATE. HAD TO GET OFF THE HIGHWAY. CAR WOULD ONLY TRAVEL AT A VERY LOW SPEED. MADE MY WAY TO A PARKING LOT AND SHUT THE CAR OFF. SHIFTING INTO ANY GEAR (REVERSE, DRIVE ETC.) CAUSED THE CAR TO JUMP/SHAKE AND MAKE A LOUD NOISE. AFTER A WHILE IT RESOLVED ITSELF. TOOK THE CAR TO A FORD DEALERSHIP. THEY CHECKED IT OUT, COULD FIND NO ISSUE (INCIDENTAL FINDING - CAR NEEDED BATTERY). BATTERY WAS REPLACED, PICKED UP CAR AND RESUMED DRIVING THE CAR. WITHIN A WEEK WAS DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY (SECOND TIME SINCE PICKING THE CAR UP) AND HAD THE SAME THING HAPPEN. DRIVING ON HIGHWAY AND SUDDENLY SEE THE SPEEDOMETER/ODOMETER STOP WORKING, LOW TIRE PRESSURE LIGHT AND...

VEHICLE WILL ACT LIKE IT ' JUMPS' AND THE WRENCH LIGHT WILL COME ON. VEHICLE WILL DECELERATE IF I DON'T PULL OVER IMMEDIATELY CAUSING ME TO COME TO A STOP. SPEEDOMETER DOESN'T WORK WHILE THIS IS HAPPENING. CANT ACCELERATE ONCE STOPPED. HAS TO TURN VEHICLE OFF TO RESET THE COMPUTER AND THE WRENCH LIGHT WILL GO OFF FOR A PERIOD OF TIME UNTIL IT DECIDES TO HAPPEN AGAIN. VERY DANGEROUS SITUATION IF ON THE HIGHWAY AND CAN'T GET OUT OF THE WAY OF OTHER CARS TO CUT THE VEHICLE OFF. HAPPENS A FEW TIMES A MONTH.

VEHICLE INITIALLY WOULD NOT ACCELERATE BEYOND 10 MPH THEN COMPLETELY LOST POWER IN THE MIDDLE OF RUSH HOUR TRAFFIC. LOCAL REPAIR CENTER REPORTED ISSUES WITH PCM AND WAS UNABLE TO FIX IT. SENT IT TO A FORD DEALER WHO CONFIRMED ISSUES WITH PCM THAT DAMAGED THE BODY THROTTLE, 3 ENGINE COILS, AND OTHER PARTS. HAD TO REPLACE PCM AND PARTS DAMAGED BY IT RESULTING IN A $2894.10 REPAIR BILL. THE FOLLOWING DAY AFTER REPAIR, WAS AGAIN IN THE MIDDLE OF RUSH HOUR TRAFFIC AND THE VEHICLE COMPLETELY LOSS POWER AGAIN. THIS IS A SERIOUS SAFETY CONCERN AND BASED ON RESEARCH, A LOT OF PEOPLE ARE EXPERIENCING THE SAME THING. FORD NEED TO RECALL THIS ISSUE. I'M SO THANKFUL MY CHILD WAS NOT IN THE VEHICLE DURING THESE EVENTS.

THE PCM ON MY FORD EDGE HAS WENT OUT FOR A SECOND TIME AFTER 5 YEARS OF HAVING IT FIXED THE FIRST TIME. THIS ISSUE IS AN ON GOING ISSUE THAT ONCE AGAIN WILL COST OVER 1000 TO REPLACE AND REPAIR ALL THE PROBLEMS THIS HAS CAUSED SUCH AS THE COMPUTER ITSELF ALL THE SPARK PLUGS EVEN THOUGH IT IS NOT TIME FOR THIS TO BE CHANGED AGAIN THE CAR WAS PURCHASED WITH 95000 MILES ON IT AND WITHIN A MONTH OF HAVING IT THE CAR SHOT THE COMPUTER WE REPLACED ALL THE SPARK PLUGS COILS AND THE COMPUTER THRU A DEALERSHIP AND NOW THE VEHICLE IS AT 123000 AND ONCE AGAIN IT IS TIME TO REPLACE ALL THE PARTS AGAIN. THIS NEEDS TO BE RECALLED DUE TO THE LOSS OF POWER WHILE DRIVING WHEN THIS ISSUE FIRST STARTS.

DASH BOARD LIGHTS COMPLETELY OUT. WHEN CAR IS IN DRIVE RPM NOT APPEARING ALSO GAUGES NOT WORKING. COMPASS DATA ERROR APPEARS UP WITH RED BATTERY SYMBOL

DRIVING AND OUT OF NO WHERE, RECEIVE AN ERROR MESSAGE THAT SAYS "ODO DATA ERROR", THE CAR HOLDS THE CURRENT SPEED BUT IT'S VERY APPARENT THAT SOMETHING IS OFF AS THE CAR IS NOW MAKING A HUMMING/AIR PRESSURE SOUND (SPEEDOMETER & TACHOMETER STOPS WORKING AT VARIOUS SPEEDS) WHEN THIS HAPPENS THE WRENCH, AIRBAG, ABS, STABILITY CONTROL INDICATOR AND ENGINE LIGHT ILLUMINATE. WITHIN 5 MINUTES NEW ERROR APPEARS (TIRE PRESSURE MONITOR FAULT). ONCE YOU HAVE PRESSED THE BRAKES AND COME TO A COMPLETE STOP THE CAR IS EXTREMELY HESITANT TO ACCELERATE EVEN WITH THE GAS PEDAL PUSHED COMPLETELY TO THE FLOOR IT DOESN'T GAIN POWER UNTIL IT HAS ROLLED ABOUT 15-20 FEET AND AT THAT POINT THERE IS A EXTREMELY LOUD BANG WHICH MAKES YOU THINK THE ENTIRE UNDERBELLY OF THE CAR HAS FALLEN OUT. AT THAT POINT IT REGAINS SPEED AGAIN, BUT IF YOU STOP IT DOES THE SAME THING...

THE TRUCK SUDDENLY STALLS OUT, U PRESS THE ACCELERATOR AND THE TRUCK DOESN'T PICK UP SPEED, I TURN THE IGNITION ON AND IT DOESN'T START, IT CUTS OFF IN THE MIST OF DRIVING AND TURNING...VERY DANGEROUS THERE SHOULD BE A RECALL AND IT SHOULD NOT EXPIRE I HAVE MY CHILDREN IN THE CAR WITH ME!!!!

WHILE DRIVING ,IN FULL MOTION, , THE CAR COMES TO AN ALMOST STOP! SCARES YOU TO DEATH, YOU CHECK TO MAKE SURE YOU HAVEN'T ACCIDENTLY PUT THE CAR IN NEUTRAL , ALL THE WARNING LIGHTS ON THE DASH LIGHT UP ,THE CHECK ENGINE, THE LOW TIRE GAGE SYMBOL, THE TOOL LIGHT,, THE SPEEDOMETER STOPS WORKING, . THE CAR REFUSE TO MOVE FORWARD, PLACED IN REVERSE IT MOVES BACKWARD ,THE FORD DEALER IS UNABLE TO FIX THE PROBLEM ,CODES DON'T SHOW UP TO HELP IDENTIFY THE PROBLEM. THE DANGER IS IT HAPPENS WHILE YOU ARE DRIVING. ITS BEEN DIAGNOSED AS A TRANSMISSION PROBLEM (VERY EXPENSIVE) BUT THAT'S NOT WHAT IT IS. YOU REPROGRAM IT TEMPORARY, BY TAKING THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE LOOSE FOR A FEW SECONDS, THE CAR DRIVES PERFECT UNTIL IT HAPPENS AGAIN, ITS HAPPEN THREE TIMES WITH THIS CAR, I HAVE CALLED THE FORD COOPERATE OFFICE TO REPORT THIS...

THE CAR LOST POWER WHEN ENTERING THE FREEWAY. IT WAS MISFIRING AND WAS NOT ABLE TO KEEP UP WITH THE SPEED LIMIT. THE REPAIR SHOP FOUND THE COIL WAS MELTED AND CRACKED. THE ENGINE MISFIRED #6 CYLINDER. THE PCM MODULE DID NOT SHUT DOWN THE CYLINDER TO PREVENT THE MISFIRE, WHICH RESULTED IN THE DESTRUCTION OF THE IGNITION COIL, AND PCM MODULE. THE NEW PCM MODULE HAD TO BE PURCHASED FROM FORD AS NO AFTER MARKET EXISTED. THE REPAIR BILL WAS OVER TWO THOUSAND DOLLARS. WE WERE TOLD THIS COULD HAVE STARTED A FIRE. HOPING THE NEW MODULE WORKS PROPERLY.

I ALWAYS MAINTAINED MY "PRE-OWNED" VEHICLE, PURCHASED FROM DEALERSHIP WITH 25,000 MILES. BEGAN TO EXPERIENCE A PLETHORA OF PROBLEMS AFTER 2,000 MILES. I'VE PAID OVER $8,000 IN REPAIRS AND ONLY DROVE IT 35,000 IN 8 YEARS TIME, BUT MAINTAINED IT PROPERLY & REGULARLY: I'VE HAD TO CHANGE THE BRAKES & PADS, & BATTERY TWICE, IT'S WHEEL RIMS CONSTANTLY LEAK AIR IN THE WINTER CAUSING FLAT TIRES, CHANGED ALL 4 TIRES, AND ON AUGUST 2, 20017, WHILE DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY AT 60 MPH, MY STEERING CONTROL SUDDENLY LOCKED UP! THERE WAS NO CONTROL OVER THE VEHICLE'S MOVEMENTS- NO ABILITY TO MAKE LANE ADJUSTMENTS OR TURNS! I AND MY ENTIRE FAMILY INCLUDING GRANDCHILDREN COULD HAVE BEEN KILLED!! LUCKILY, THE NEXT OFF-RAMP WAS A STRAIGHT SHOT & I WAS ABLE TO EXIT THE HWY SAFELY AND BRING THE VEHICLE TO STOP DESPITE NO STEERING CONTROL. I HAD MY VEHICLE TOWED TO A...

PULLING OUT OF A PARKING LOT TURNING RIGHT TRIED TO ACCELERATE SIGNIFICANT AMOUNT OF TRAFFIC BEHIND ME AFTER TURNING AND I COULDN'T GO ANYWHERE. PULLED INTO THE NEAREST PARKING LOT APPROX. 50 FEET OR MORE PILED INTO PARKIN SPOT. THEN SAT FOR A COUPLE INURED WRENCH ILLUMINATED ON DASH BOARD. TRIED TO BACK UP TO STRAIGHTEN VEHICLE AND IT MADE A LOUD CLUNK NOISE WHEN PUTTING IN REVERSE. AFTER TURNING OFF CAR WENT TO RESTART AFTER 30 MINUTES CAR MADE LOUD CLUNK AGAIN WITHOUT BEING IN GEAR. AT THIS TIME IT ISN'T A RECALLED ITEM JUST. TSB AND NOT GETTING ANY RESOLUTION AS TO WHY THIS ISNT A RECALL ITEM. APPROX. 45 MINUTES PRIOR TO THIS INCIDENT I WAS ON THE HIGHWAY DRIVING THE SPEED LIMIT. WHAT WOULD HAVE HAPPENED IF THE FAILURE OCCURRED AT THIS POINT. THANK GOD IT DIDN'T AS I WOULDN'T BE WRITING THIS LETTER. FOR THE...

I PULLED OUT OF MY DRIVEWAY AND EVERYTHING WAS FINE. I PULLED OUT OF MY NEIGHBORHOOD AND AS SOON AS I GAVE IT ANY GOOD AMOUNT OF GAS IT STARTING DRIVING REALLY ROUGH AND SHAKING AND THE A/C WENT OUT YOU COULD HEAR THE MISFIRE ON THE CYLINDERS AND THE TRANSMISSION WAS REVVING HIGH BEFORE IT WOULD SHIFT GEARS. NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS OR ANYTHING AT THIS POINT. I TURNED BACK AROUND AND TOOK MY CAR BACK HOME TURNED IT OFF AND THEN TURNED IT BACK ON AND THAT'S WHEN THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. WE PULLED THE CODE AND IT WAS P0352 (IGNITION COIL 2 OR PCM) SO WE BOUGHT AND CHANGED ALL SPARK PLUGS AND COIL 2. THIS STILL DIDN'T FIX THE PROBLEM. SO I TOOK IT IN TO THE DEALERSHIP AND $3000 LATER THEY HAD TO REPLACE MY PCM (THE MAIN COMPUTER THAT RUN THE CAR)...

I WAS STOPED AT STOP SIGN MY 2008 FORD EDGE WITH NO SIGNS OF PROBLEMS. WHEN I STARTED TO PULL OUT THERE WAS LOW POWER AND THE WRENCH SIGNAL WENT ON. CAR WOULD NOT GO FASTER THEN 5MPH. I WAS VERY CONCERNED FOR CARS IN BACK OF WERE IMPATIENT AND PASSING. I RESEARCHED THIS PROBLEM ON THE INERTNET AND IT SEEMS TO BE HAPPENING WITH ALOT OF THESE MAKE AND MODEL CARS. *TR

GAUGES ON DASH STOP WORKING. TOOL SYMBOL SHOWS UP ALSO TIRE PRESSURE WARNING AND EXCLAMATION MARK. CARSTARTS TO SLOW DOWN. WHEN CAR IS PUT IN REVERSE IT MAKES A LOUD CLUCKING NOISE. LIKE THE MOTOR IS GONNA FALL OUT. CAN'T DRIVE IT FORWARD BUT U CAN GO IN REVERSE. THIS HAS HAPPENED SEVERAL TIMES. IF YOU LET THE CAR SIT FOR A FEW DAYS IT GOES BACK TO NORMAL. THIS HAS TO BE A SERIOUS PROBLEM BECAUSE LOTS OF PEOPLE ON YOUTUBE HAVE POSTED VIDEOS OF THE SAME PROBLEM! NOW I'M STUCK OVER 100 MILES AWAY FROM HOME. NOT COOL FORD!!!!! *TR

WENT THROUGH INTERSECTION STANDING ON BRAKE PEDAL, WOULD NOT STOP, LEFT SIDE WHEELS LOCKED UP. SLID ON BLACKTOP 2+ CAR LENGTHS TO ONCOMING TRAFFIC SHOULDER, 2 MORE CAR LENGTHS ON GRAVEL. TOLD BY REPAIR SHOP ABS UNIT NOT WORKING PROPERLY. COULD NOT EXPLAIN WHY POWER WENT TO WHEELS ON THE RIGHT WHILE DRIVING DOWN ROAD. WAS 60,000 AND 4 YEARS OLD. NOW 6 1/2 AND 67,000 MILES, STILL STUCK WITH IT. *TR

THE VECHILE LOSS POWER AND STALLED OUT. AFTER THAT THE CAR ON THE SECOND OCCURRENCE WON"T START HAD TO CHARGE BATTERY THE CAR RACED WHILED IDLING AND HAD NO POWER TO RUN. WENT BACK TO THE DEALER AND ARE UNABLE TO FIND ANY PROBLEM. SO WE ARE NOW STUCK WITH A CAR THAT WILL SHUT DOWN AND LOSE ALL POWER WHICH IS NOT SAFE TO DRIVE DO TO THE FACT THAT IF WE DROVE IT AT NIGHT AND STALLS OUT WE LOSE ALL POWER AND WITH NO POWER THE OTHER CARS MAY RUN INTO US AND CAUSE AN ACCIDENT WHICH WE ARE UNABLE TO PREVENT. THANK YOU THIS IS A DANGEROUS SITUATION. INFORMATION REDACTED PURSUANT TO THE FREEDOM OF INFORMATION ACT (FOIA), 5 U.S.C. 552(B)(6) *TT