2007 BMW 328I Electrical System Problems

STEERING WHEEL LOCK CAUSING THE CAR NOT TO START,

THE ELECTRICAL IS THE MAIN ISSUE. NOTHING STARS. THE CAR DON'T TURN ON, WON'T EVEN LOCK AND IT RANDOM HAPPENED. I WENT TO WORK AND IT SEEMED LIKE EVERYTHING WAS FINE BUT WHEN I CLOCKED OUT .. MY CAR WOULDN'T EVEN START. I CHECK MY BATTERY & IT WAS FINE. THEN I CHECKED ONLINE & I NOTICED THAT I WASN'T EVEN THE ONLY PERSON DEALING WITH THIS ISSUE.

VEHICLE HAS 2 INCOMPLETE RECALLS, NO ACCIDENTS I AM REPORTING THAT I WAS NEVER CONTACTED

WHEN I TRIED TO CLOSE MY SUNROOF, IT WOULD NOT CLOSE DESPITE TRYING TO RESET IT, SO I TOOK IT IN TO A MECHANIC. THEY COULDN'T FIGURE OUT WHAT WAS WRONG UNTIL THEY LOOKED AND THE SUNROOF MOTOR BLEW A FUSE. THEY REPLACED THE FUSE, TRIED IT AGAIN, AND THE MOTOR BLEW THE FUSE AGAIN. SO THE SUNROOF MOTOR HAS A FAULT. I HEARD RECENTLY THAT BMWS ARE SPONTANEOUSLY COMBUSTING AND THAT WE SHOULD REPORT ANY UNUSUAL THINGS, SO I'M REPORTING THIS. MY CAR IS STILL AT THE MECHANIC (BAY BRIDGE BIMMERS AND MINIS IN OAKLAND) UNDER REPAIR. THEIR WEBSITE IS: HTTP://WWW.BAYBRIDGE-BIMMERS-MINIS.COM/. OCCURRED REGARDLESS OF WHETHER THE VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY, IN MOTION, ETC.

I OPENED THE DOOR AND PUT KEY IN, EVERY THING LOOKSED GOOD. BUT I PUSHED START BUTTON, IT COULD NOT START. THEN ALL POWER WENT DOWN: NO LOCK/UNLOCK, NO RADIO, NO LIGHT. YET AFTER SOME TIME, THE POWER WENT BACK AND I COULD START. THIS HAPPENED MANY TIMES. I FOUND MANY 2007 BMW 328I HAVE THE SAME PROBLEM. IT'S RELATED TO THE B+ WIRE CONTACT ISSUE. BMW HAS A RECALL FOR THAT ISSUE: THERE IS A TSB FOR THIS E90 WONT START - SI B61 08 11

OUT OF NO WHERE THE CAR DIDN'T WANT TO START UP ANY MORE. IT WAS PARKED IN MY DRIVEWAY. AT FIRST I THOUGHT IT WAS THE BATTERY BUT IT WASN'T. I HAD IT CHECKED OUT AND THEY DIDN'T KNOW WHY IT COULDN'T START. I CHECKED ONLINE AND THEN I NOTICED THAT THERE'S BEEN A RECALL FOR 3 SERIES BMW DUE TO ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS AND I NOTICED THAT A LOT OF PEOPLE WERE IN MY SHOES.

PLASTIC INSULATION HAS CRACKED AND PEELED ON ALL WIRING INSIDE MY FRONT HEADLIGHT HOUSINGS. EXPOSED WIRING CREATES A POTENTIAL SHORT CIRCUIT AND FIRE HAZARD.

SINCE I GOT THIS CAR MY OIL WAS LEAKING. I HAD TO REPLACE THE VAL COVER. I CAN'T REMEMBER HOW MUCH THAT COST ME. MY STEERING LOCK MODULE WAS REPLACED AND IT COST ME 1,181.07. I HAD MY BELT TENSIONER REPLACED BECAUSE IT WAS BENT. IT COST ME $327.04. THIS WAS DONE 3/6/2015. A RECALL ON SRS AIR BAG. I STILL HAVE THE AIR BAG WARNING LIGHT. BMW RECOMMENDED TO REPLACE OF EXHAUST LIFTERS AND ROLLER DRAG LEVERS WITH UPDATED UNIT TO ELIMINATE TICKING NOISE AT IDLE WHICH WILL COST ME 1,466.40. I NEED TO REPLACE ALTERNATOR, BELT, BATTERY AND THE CAR WON'T START. I FIXED THE BATTERY PROBLEM AND AS I WAS DRIVING TO WORK AND PARKED THE CAR WOULD NOT START. MY BATTERY CONNECTION NEED TO BE REPLACE. COMMON ISSUE WITH ALL BMW. I WILL SPEND ABOUT 1,518.7 TO FIX THE PROBLEM.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 BMW 328I. WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS STOPPED AT A RED LIGHT, THE ENGINE STALLED WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO A DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE WATER PUMP FAILED AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. ALSO, WHILE STARTING THE VEHICLE, THE BATTERY BECAME INOPERABLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE BATTERY FAILED AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED, BUT THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS UNKNOWN.

BACK WINDOWS(2) ROLLED DOWN WILL NOT COME UP. MOTOR BUZZES AND NOTHING HAPPENS.

MY 2007 BMW 328I IS HAVING RED STEERING WHEEL WARNING DISPLAYED ON DASH. I HAVE READ AROUND THE INTERNET AND THIS SEEMS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM WITH BMW. REQUIRES THE ENTIRE STEERING COLUMN BE REPLACED. THIS IS A MAJOR SAFETY ISSUE IF A PERSON NEEDS TO START THE CAR AND IS UNABLE TO START IT BECAUSE OF A FAULTY LATCH AND LEVER. A SIMPLE GOOGLE SEARCH OF "BMW STEERING WHEEL LOCK" BRINGS UP HUNDREDS OF PAGES AND VIDEOS OF PEOPLE HAVING ISSUES WITH THEIR VEHICLES. THE LIGHT ON MY CAR IS A STEERING WHEEL LOCK RED. I CHECKED MY BATTERY AND IT WORKS PERFECTLY FINE. THE PROBLEM IS A FAULTY STEERING LOCK. THE CERTIFIED BMW DEALER THAT SOLD THE VEHICLE SAID THIS IS NORMAL OF BMWS. NORMAL MEANING THEY KNOW IT WILL EVENTUALLY GO BAD AND THE STEERING COLUMN HAS TO BE REPLACE TO CORRECT IT. WHAT, THE STEERING...

MY 2007 BMW 328I IS HAVING STEERING WHEEL LOCK ISSUES. I HAVE READ AROUND THE INTERNET AND THIS SEEMS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM WITH BMW. SOMETIMES WHEN I START THE CAR IT WILL WORK, OTHER TIMES IT WILL NOT TURN ON UNLESS I TRY PULLING THE KEY FOB OUT AND PUTTING IT BACK IN AND CLICKING THE PUSH TO START SEVERAL TIMES. THIS IS ALL BECAUSE OF A LEVER THAT PUSHES A LATCH THE UNHOOKS THE STEERING COLUMN SO THE CAR CAN START. BMW DOES NOT SELL THE FAULTY LATCH AND LEVER ALONE BUT REQUIRES THE ENTIRE STEERING COLUMN BE REPLACED. THIS IS A MAJOR SAFETY ISSUE IF A PERSON NEEDS TO START THE CAR AND IS UNABLE TO START IT BECAUSE IF A FAULTY LATCH AND LEVER. A SIMPLE GOOGLE SEARCH OF "BMW STEERING WHEEL LOCK" BRINGS UP HUNDREDS OF PAGES AND VIDEOS OF PEOPLE HAVING ISSUES WITH...

VEHICLE IS LOOSING POWER BETWEEN 45-55 MILES AND STEERING WHEELS BECOMES HARD TO TURN ON 7/1/16 JACKSON,MS ON NORTHVIEW DRIVE, SAME PROBLEM 7/10/17 MOBILE,AL AND 7/16/16 BEACH BLVD. JACKSONVILLE, FL AND ONCE BREAKING AT A STOP (REDLIGHT OR STOP SIGN) IT SHUTS DOWN IN TRAFFIC. CAR MUST BE PUT IN PARK AND CRANKED TO RESTART. ISSUE UNKNOWN AND THE VEHICLE IS UNSAFE AND WILL NOT STAY ON IN BIG CONJESTIONS OF TRAFFIC, I AM SCARED OF A CRASH. THERE ARE ALREADY RECALLS ON THIS ISSUE FROM THE NATIONAL DATA BASE.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 BMW 328I. WHILE DRIVING VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE SENSOR FOR THE PASSENGER SIDE SEAT ACTIVATED WHILE THE SEAT WAS UNOCCUPIED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO A DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE PASSENGER DETECTION MAT NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE VIN WAS NOT INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 13V564000 (AIR BAGS). THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE VIN WAS UNKNOWN. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 100,000.

TL* TAKATA RECALL. THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 BMW 328I. THE CONTACT RECEIVED A RECALL NOTIFICATION FOR THE AIR BAGS. THE PARTS WERE NOT AVAILABLE IN A REASONABLE TIME FRAME TO SCHEDULE A REPAIR WITH THE DEALER. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE HESITATED SEVERELY AND RANDOMLY STALLED. THE VIN WAS NOT INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 13V044000 (ELECTRICAL SYSTEM). ALSO, THE FUEL PUMP FAILED AND THE VEHICLE WAS UNABLE TO BE DRIVEN. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURES. THE CONTACT WAS WAITING TO DETERMINE WHEN THE RECALL REPAIRS WOULD BE COMPLETED. THE NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER FOR THE AIR BAGS WAS UNKNOWN. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 140,000. VIN TOOL CONFIRMS PARTS NOT AVAILABLE.

I PURCHASED THE CAR FROM AN INDEPENDENT DEALER WITH SOMEWHERE AROUND 60K OR 65K MILES IT NOW HAS AROUND 80K MILES AND SINCE THE CAR HAS BEEN PURCHASED IT HAS HAD ONE PROBLEM AFTER THE NEXT. THE ELECTRICAL FOR THE WINDOWS,MIRRORS,DOOR LOCKS,GPS SYSTEM,HEAD LIGHTS WERE NOT WORKING PROPERLY. I RECEIVED A FAULT WARNING THAT THE OUTSIDE RUNNING LIGHTS OR HEADLIGHTS WERE NOT OPERATING PROPERLY. I HAVE NOTICED THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON AND TOOK IT TO HAVE IT LOOKED AT WHICH I WAS TOLD OBD CODE READS MISFIRE #2 IGNITION COIL. I HAD THE PARTS REPLACED AND CODES CLEARED AND STILL THE LIGHT CAME BACK ON READING THE SAME FAULT CODE HAD IT CHECKED AGAIN AND WAS TOLD IT IS A NEW PART AND IT HAS BEEN REPLACED AND HE CANNOT FIGURE WHY IT WOULD COME BACK THE SAME THING. THE ONLY EXPLANATION HE HAD FOR ME IS THERE IS...

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 BMW 328I. WHILE PARKED, THE VEHICLE WAS NOT ABLE TO START AND THE KEY FOB REMAINED IN THE IGNITION. THE CONTACT MENTIONED SHIFTING A RED B.PLUS CABLE IN ORDER TO START THE VEHICLE. THE FAILURE RECURRED INTERMITTENTLY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED, BUT THE CAUSE OF THE FAILURE WAS NOT FOUND. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE VIN WAS NOT INCLUDED IN NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 13V044000 (ELECTRICAL SYSTEM). THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 143,000.

THIS IS AN ADDITION TO OUR PREVIOUS RECALL PROBLEMS AS ALL ELECTRICAL SHUT OFF AS WELL. HERE ARE THE ADDITIONAL DOCUMENTS TO BE ADDED TO PUBLIC RECORD THAT INDEED 6 RECALLS WERE RECORDED TO OUR REGISTERED VIN AND YET WAS TOLD BMW HAD NO OBLIGATION TO ADHERE TO THESE DOCUMENTS?! ITS ALSO CRAZY THAT WE HAVE TONS OF DOCUMENTS AND YET WE ARE ALLOWED TO SHOW A MBYTE AT A TIME. HOW CONVENIENT.

I WAS DRIVING AND MY CAR COMPLETELY SHUT OFF AS I COASTED DOWN THE ROAD WITH ABSOLUTELY NO BRAKES AT ALL. I WAS TERRIFIED. THERE WAS NO ELECTRICAL POWER TO MY CAR AT ALL FOR ALL OF 10 MINS. I ALMOST HIT THE CAR IN FRONT OF ME, SWERVING ONTO A SIDE STREET TO LET MY CAR COAST UNTIL IT STOPPED. MY CAR HAS ABSOLUTELY NO COLD CRANK. THIS IS THE 3RD TIME THIS HAS HAPPENED AND NO ONE CAN FIX IT.

HEADLAMP WIRING INSULATION IS FLAKING OFF. ALL INSULATION OF ALL WIRES IN BOTH HEADLAMPS HAS TOTALLY DETERIORATED WITHIN EIGHT YEARS OF MANUFACTURE LEAVING EXPOSED WIRES CREATING POTENTIAL SHORT CIRCUIT AND FIRE HAZARD. BMW'S SOLUTION IS TO BUY ANOTHER HEADLAMP AT $1,500 EACH WHICH, PRESUMABLY, WILL ALSO DETERIORATE WITHIN THE NEXT SEVEN TO EIGHT YEARS!

THIS IS THE SECOND TIME I AM REPORTING THIS ISSUE. A FEW YEARS AGO I WAS NOT ABLE TO OPEN MY DOORS CAUSED BY AN OBVIOUS ELECTRICAL ISSUE. THE DEALERSHIP DETERMINED IT WAS FAULTY ACTUATORS AND THEY HAD TO BE REPLACED. IT WAS A VERY EXPENSIVE REPAIR. THIS IS A SERIOUS SAFETY CONCERNED TO NOT BE ABLE TO GET IN OR OUT OF YOUR CAR TO BOTH THE DRIVER AND PASSENGERS. AFTER SOME RESEARCH, IT WAS DETERMINED THIS A KNOWN ISSUE BY BMW YET THEY REFUSE TO DO A RECALL. THE ISSUE HAS NOW HAPPENED AGAIN TO ME, AND I AM NOT ABLE TO OPEN THE DRIVERS SIDE DOOR, NOT EVEN WITH THE KEY. I WAS IN A PARKING LOT AND WAS ALMOST LEFT STRANDED UNTIL FORTUNATELY I WAS ABLE TO CRAWL IN TO GET TO DRIVERS SEAT. I AM VERY ANGRY THEY ARE NOT TAKING SERIOUS SAFETY CONCERNS INTO...

AFTER, I PARKED MY CAR IN THE GARAGE. (NOTHING OUT OF THE ORDINARY, DAILY ROUTINE, NORMAL CONDITIONS). MY CAR WOULDN'T START. IT DISPLAYED A "POWER STEERING WHEEL LOCKED" ICON WARNING WHEN I TRIED TO START THE IGNITION. THE IGNITION SPARK WASNT THERE. THE LIGHTS ALSO DIMMED AS I TRIED TO GET STARTED.

DRIVING AT APPROXIMATELY 30MPH PASSING VEHICLE ALLERTED ME OF FIRE AND SMOKE COMING FROM MY REAR. AS I SLOWED DOWN FLAMES AND SMOKE INCREASED. SMOKE FILLED INTERIOR UPON MY EXITING. REAR FIRE CO0NTINUED TO BURN UNTIL FIRE DEPARTMENT. DOOUSED CAR WITH WATER. POLICE REPORT TAKEN. CAR TAKEN TO REPAIR SHOP AND DECLARED TO EXPENSIVE TO REPAIR.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 BMW 328I. WHILE DRIVING 70 MPH, THE INSTRUMENT PANEL WARNING INDICATORS ILLUMINATED AND THE WINDSHIELD WIPERS STARTED TO ACTIVATE INDEPENDENTLY. THE CONTACT ALSO STATED THAT THE IGNITION HAD DIFFICULTY SWITCHING INTO THE ON POSITION. THE CONTACT ALSO STATED THAT THE DOOR LOCKS WOULD ALSO WORK INDEPENDENTLY. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC BUT WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 140,000.

I PARKED ON MY DRIVE WAY NORMALLY WITH EVERYTHING FINE. THE NEXT DAY WHEN TRYING TO TURN THE CAR ON, IT WOULDN'T START AND IT GAVE ME A STEERING WHEEL LOCK ISSUE. *TR

I WAS DRIVING ON AN EMPTY ROAD WHEN THE CAR SHUT OFF COMPLETELY, THE CABIN LOST ALL POWER AND THE CAR WENT ON BLACK OUT MODE. I BEGAN TO PRESS THE BRAKE BUT IT WAS ROUGH AND UNRESPONSIVE, I PULLED THE EMERGENCY BRAKE TO CONTINUE TO STOP SLOWLY, ONCE ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD, I BEGAN TO EXAMINE THE VEHICLE, OPENED THE BATTERY COMPARTMENT IN THE TRUNK OF THE VEHICLE AND SEEMED TO BE FINE, I POPPED THE HOOD OPEN, EXAMINED A LITTLE BIT MORE FOR FLUIDS OR SIGNS OF OVER HEATING AND WAS UNSUCCESSFUL, CALLED A TOW TRUCK, THE DRIVER TESTED THE BATTERY AND SAID THE BATTERY WAS NOT TAKING THE CHARGE, SO HE TOWED ME HOME, THE NEXT DAY I TOOK THE BATTERY TO THE PLACE I PURCHASED IT FROM SINCE IT WAS STILL UNDER WARRANTY, THIS BATTERY HAD A 2 YEAR WARRANTY AND WAS USED FOR...

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 BMW 328I. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE STALLED ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS WITHOUT WARNING. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER AND IT WAS DETERMINED THAT THE BATTERY CONNECTOR NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE CONTACT ASKED ABOUT NHTSA CAMPAIGN NUMBER: 13V044000 (ELECTRICAL SYSTEM) BUT THE MANUFACTURER STATED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS NOT INCLUDED IN THE RECALL. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS UNKNOWN.

MY WIFE AND I HAVE A 2007 BMW 328I. IN 2010, WE GOT IN THE VEHICLE AND THERE WAS A STEERING WHEEL LOCK WARNING ON THE DASH. WE TOOK IT TO GET LOOKED AT AND THEY STATED IT WAS A "FAULT CODE". WE HAD THE EXACT SAME EXPERIENCE IN 2012 AND 2014 WITH THE SAME RESULT, "FAULT CODE". WE NOW HAVE THIS ICON WARNING AGAIN. THIS TIME WE ARE TOLD THAT THE WHOLE STEERING COLUMN WILL NEED TO BE REPLACED ($1200). ACCORDING TO MANY REFERENCES, THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM AND BMW IS AWARE OF IT. ALSO, ACCORDING TO SEVERAL REFERENCES, THERE IS NO WARNING OR PREDICTION WHEN THE STEERING WHEEL LOCK WILL FAIL IN THE LOCKED POSITION. IF YOU ARE FIRST GETTING INTO THE VEHICLE AND THE STEERING WHEEL LOCK HAS FAILED IN THE LOCKED POSITION, IT WILL NOT ALLOW YOU TO START THE ENGINE. THE QUESTION THAT I...

THE DOOR LOCKS AND CENTRAL LOCKING SYSTEM ARE MALFUNCTIONING. KEY FOB WILL NOT UNLOCK DRIVER'S DOOR AND OTHER DOORS. KEY MUST BE USED FOR ENTRY. BMW ADMITS IN BULLETINS THAT FUSE AMPERAGE WAS DESIGNED IMPROPERLY. TAKEN INTO DEALERSHIP FOR REPAIR, DEALERSHIP CLAIMS THAT ALL FOUR DOOR LATCHES NEED TO BE REPLACED AT A COST OF $1,490.00. RESEARCH INDICATES THIS IS A SYSTEMIC ISSUE WITH BMWS. SURPRISED THAT A RECALL HAS NOT BEEN ORDERED GIVEN THE SERIOUS SAFETY ISSUES INVOLVED. *TR

THE DOOR LOCKS ON THE FRONT PASSENGER AND REAR DRIVERS SIDE DOORS WOULD NOT UNLOCK AND PASSENGERS HAD TO CLIMB OUT OF THE OPPOSITE SIDES OF THE VEHICLE. *TR

DOOR LOCKS WOULD NOT OPEN LEAVING ME LOCKED OUT OF THE CAR AND STRANDED. HAD TO HAVE THE CAR TOWED 300 MILES TO GET IT BACK HOME WHERE A BMW REPAIR PLACE WAS AVAILABLE. HAD TO REPLACE BOTH FRONT DOOR ACTUATORS AT A COST OF $600.00 JUST TO GET BACK INSIDE MY CAR. IF A BABY WAS TRAPPED IN THE CAR IT COULD OF DIED BY THE TIME IT WAS TO GET ANYONE TO HELP GET THE DOORS OPEN. THE MOST DANGEROUS DESIGN I'VE EVER HEARD OF. INTERIOR DOOR HANDLES WILL NOT WORK AND NO WAY TO GET OUT OF THE CAR IF IT HAPPENED WHILE I WAS INSIDE. *TR

THE ELECTRICAL DOOR LOCK FAILED AND PREVENTED THE DRIVER'S DOOR TO UNLOCK FROM THE INSIDE CAUSING THE DRIVER TO BE TRAPPED INSIDE THE CAR. THERE IS NO MANUAL WAY TO UNLOCK CAR DOOR FROM INSIDE. *TR

UPON STARTING THE CAR THERE WAS A RAPID SOUND OF THE DOOR LOCKS, LOCKING AND OPENING SEVERAL TIMES AND THEN STOPPED. THE DRIVERS DOOR WAS LOCKED AND COULD NOT BE OPENED FROM INSIDE OR OUTSIDE. CHECKED ALL THE FUSES BUT NONE WERE BLOWN. AFTER ONLINE RESEARCH DID REPLACE THE #57 FUSE WITH A 20 AMP VS 15 AS SUGGESTED BUT STILL NOT WORKING. IF YOU MESS WITH IT LONG ENOUGH IT WILL UNLOCK BUT THE OTHER DOORS WILL BE LOCKED. IF I WERE TO BE IN AN ACCIDENT AND THIS HAPPENED , MYSELF OR THE OTHER OCCUPANTS MAY NOT BE ABLE TO EXIT THE VEHICLE QUICKLY ENOUGH TO PREVENT HARM TO US. I BELIEVE THIS IS A SAFETY HAZARD AND BMW SHOULD TAKE SOME ACTION TO CORRECT THIS, AN OVERRIDE FIX OR OTHER SAFETY MEASURE AT THEIR EXPENSE. THIS IS A SAFETY HAZARD IN MY VIEW! *TR

I WAS DRIVING MY BMW 328I 2007 AND HAD PASSENGERS IN THE CAR. APPARENTLY ONE OF THE DOOR LOCK FUSES BLEW. I AM UNABLE TO UNLOCK ANY OF THE PASSENGER DOORS WITH THE KEY FOB NOR FROM THE INSIDE OF THE CAR. I AM ABLE TO OPEN THE DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR MANUALLY BUT THAT IS IT. IN OTHER WORDS, THE PASSENGERS IN MY CAR COULD NOT MANUALLY OPEN THEIR DOORS AT ALL. THEY HAD TO CRAWL THROUGH THE DRIVER SIDE TO EXIT THE VEHICLE! THANK GOD I WASN'T IN AN ACCIDENT, THERE WASN'T A FIRE. I'M NOW BEING TOLD THAT BMW HAS TO "RUN A FULL DIAGNOSTIC" BUT THERE IS NO WAY TO OPEN ANY PASSENGER DOORS OF THE VEHICLE FOR ENTRANCE OR EXIT UNLESS I POTENTIALLY SPEND THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS ON AN ELECTRICAL SYSTEM ISSUE. SERIOUSLY? DOES THIS SEEM SAFE TO THE AVERAGE PERSON? *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2007 BMW 328 I. THE CONTACT STATED WHILE DRIVING 30 MPH, THE VEHICLE STALLED AND THE SERVICE ENGINE WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED. THE CONTACT WAS ABLE TO RESTART THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO TWO DIFFERENT INDEPENDENT MECHANICS WHO WERE NOT ABLE TO DUPLICATE THE PROBLEM. THE THIRD TIME THE FAILURE OCCURRED, THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER, WHO STATED THE FAILURE WAS DUE TO A DEFECTIVE ECCENTRIC SHAFT SENSOR WHICH NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE CONTACT WAS MADE AWARE OF A RECALL UNDER NHTSA CAMPAIGN ID NUMBER 13V044000 (ELECTRICAL SYSTEM), HOWEVER, HER VIN WAS NOT INCLUDED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE PROBLEM. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 106,745. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE.

EVERYTHING WAS FINE. I HADN'T NOTICED ANY CHANGES EXCEPT THE CRUISE CONTROL WOULD SHUT OFF BY ITSELF. THEN I NEEDED A JUMP AND IT TOOK RIGHT AWAY. THE NEXT TIME I NEEDED A JUMP IT WOULDN'T TAKE. TOOK THE BATTERY TO AUTOZONE AND HAD IT CHECKED AND IT WAS FINE. SO REALIZED IT WASN'T THE BATTERY. ID TRY TO START THE CAR BUT NOTHING HAPPENS NOT EVEN A CLICKING NOISE NOTHING. BUT THE LIGHTS STILL CAME ON WINDOWS STILL ROLLED DOWN RADIO EVEN WORKED IT JUST WOULDN'T START. *TR

DRIVER DOOR WILL NOT UNLOCK OR OPEN. ACCORDING TO DOZENS OF FORUM POSTS, IT'S A KNOWN ISSUE. VERY DANGEROUS IF THIS FAILS IN AN ACCIDENT AND CAN'T GET OUT OF THE CAR. ONLY WAY TO GET IN AND OUT IS THROUGH WINDOW OR PASSENGER DOOR. IT IS POSSIBLE FOR ALL LOCKS TO FAIL AND ONLY WAY TO GET OUT WOULD BE FROM THE WINDOWS. EVEN DOOR HANDLE CAN'T OPEN DOOR. *TR

THE ENGINE STALLED AT A LOW SPEED COMING TO A STOP. THIS IS THE SECOND TIME THIS HAS HAPPENED OVER THE PAST WEEK. *TR

THE VEHICLE AUTOMATICALLY UNROLLS ALL WINDOWS AND THE MOONROOF WHENEVER IT RAINS. THIS IS FLOODING AND RUINING THE VEHICLE, AND CAUSING MOISTURE TO ENTER THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM AND CAUSE A SIGNIFICANT FIRE HAZARD. THERE IS A BURNING SMELL FROM THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. THE ISSUE, WHICH IS WELL KNOWN ON THE BLOGOSPHERE, IS DUE TO A FAULTY AND IMPROPERLY INSTALLED WIRING HARNESS (INSTALLED CROOKED), AN ELECTRICAL SHORT IN PINS 18 AND 19 FOR THE DOOR LOCK ACTUATOR, AND IMPROPER MOISTURE SEALING FOR THE HARNESS AND ACTUATOR. THE MANUFACTURER REFUSES TO ACKNOWLEDGE OR ADDRESS THE ISSUE. *TR

LOCKED IN CAR DUE TO FAILED DOOR LOCKS. OPENED WINDOW TO ACCESS MANUAL DOOR KEY BUT PASSENGER CRAWLED OVER TO DRIVERS SIDE SINCE THIS WAS THE ONLY WAY OUT. *TR

AT 65 MPH ON FREEWAY, SUDDENLY LOST POWER. VEHICLE IMMEDIATELY SLOWED TO ABOUT 10 MPH AS I PULLED OFF THE FREEWAY. CARS BEHIND NEARLY RAN ME OVER. DROVE SLOWLY TO BMW SERVICE WHO DIAGNOSED "WATER PUMP SHORT TO GROUND" CAUSING VEH TO LOSE POWER. *TR

I WAS TRAPPED INSIDE MY VEHICLE WITH THE DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR UNABLE TO UNLOCK. I COULD NOT USE THE MANUAL DOOR HANDLE ON THE INSIDE OR OUT. THE INTERIOR DOOR OPEN BUTTON LOCATED ON THE DASHBOARD WOULD NOT UNLOCK THE DRIVER'S SIDE DOOR. THE KEY FOB WOULD NOT UNLOCK IT. I FINALLY HAD TO MANEUVER ACROSS THE CENTER CONSOLE AND SLIDE OUT THROUGH THE PASSENGER DOOR. I WAS SCARED AND FRUSTRATED. IT WAS DARK AND IN AN EMPTY PARKING LOT. *TR

SEVERAL TIMES THROUGHOUT THE DAY AFTER THE CAR WAS PARKED, IT WAS DIFFICULT TO START AND HE BATTERY INDICATOR CAME ON A FEW TIMES. THE FINAL TIME AFTER DRIVING FROM CONNECTICUT TO QUEENS NY, I WAS IN A FRIENDS DRIVEWAY AFTER DROPPING THEM OFF FROM THE AIRPORT, THE CAR WOULD NOT START EVEN THOUGHT THE LIGHTS WERE WORKING. EVENTUALLY ALL POWER WAS LOST. I HAD TO HAVE CAR PUSHED OUT IF THE DRIVING AND ON TO THE STREET. ALSO TO NOTE EARLIER I WAS CHARGING MY CELL PHONE, BUT IT STOPPED CHARGING. I WENT AND PURCHASE A NEW CHARGED (USB ADAPTOR) WHICH DID NOT WORK EITHER, BUT WORKED WHEN I HOOKED IT UP TO THE COMPUTER. THE TOW TRUCK PERSON WAS NOT ABLE TO GET THE CAR STARTED WITH A JUMP, AND INDICATED THAT IT APPEARED TO BE AN ELECTRICAL ISSUES. I REVIEWED THE INTERNET TO SEE WHAT THE PROBLEM...

BRAKES GO OUT A LOT FRONT AND REAR ON BOTH MY BMWS , AND PASSENGERS REAR DOOR LOCKS STOP WORKING ON BOTH MY BMW'S 2006 325, AND 328I 2007. WINDOWS ON BOTH RIGHT REAR DOORS WORK WHEN THEY WANT TO. I'VE BEEN TELLING THE BMW DEALER ABOUT THESE THINGS AND ALL THEY SAY IS WHAT IT WILL COST ME TO FIX. I EVEN TOLD THEM ABOUT THE ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS ON BOTH MY CARS AND THEY HAD ME PAY FOR IT, THEN LATER I FIND OUT IT IS A RECALL. BUT DIDN'T GET MONEY BACK FOR ME PAYING TO GET IT FIXED. SAME THING ABOUT THE BRAKES , BOTH MY BMWS BEEN IN THE SHOP MORE THEN 30 TIMES OR MORE APIECE. CAN SOMEONE HELP. *TR

THE DOOR ACTUATOR SYSTEM ON MY 2007 BMW 3281 HAS FAILED TWICE, ONCE LOCKING ME IN AND THE OTHER TIME IMMOBILIZING THE CAR AND STRANDING ME FOR SEVERAL HOURS.I NOTICED THE FIRST FAILURE WHEN I STOPPED FOR GAS & COULD NOT OPEN THE FUEL FLAP. I DROVE TO THE DEALER BUT THE DRIVER SIDE DOOR WOULD NOT OPEN, EITHER ELECTRONICALLY OR MANUALLY, AND THE WINDOWS WOULD NOT LOWER AND THE OTHER THREE DOORS WOULD NOT OPEN. FORTUNATELY, THE SUN ROOF WAS NOT ON THE DOOR CIRCUIT & I WAS ABLE TO TOSS OUT THE FOB KEY FOR SOMEONE TO OPEN THE DRIVER DOOR AND LET ME OUT. A MECHANIC REPLACED THE 15 AMP FUSE IN THE DOOR CIRCUIT WITH A 20 AMP FUSE AND SENT ME ON MY WAY. CONCLUSION: THIS CAR IS A DEATH TRAP WAITING TO HAPPEN. THE SECOND INCIDENT OCCURRED AS I DROVE HOME AFTER A STATE...

I WAS GOING ABOUT 50 TO 55 MPA WHEN MY TEMP LIGHT CAME ON, WITHIN A FEW SECONDS MY CAR LOST SPEED RAPIDLY AND COMPLETELY QUIT LOCKING EVERYTHING UP ON A BUSY HIGHWAY. I BOUGHT THE CAR AS A CERTIFIED PRE-OWNED WITH 100,000 MILE WARRENTY.WHEN I CALLED CENTURY BMW DEALER IN HUNTSVILLE, AL WHERE I PURCHASED IT I WAS TOLD MY WARRANTY WENT OUT TWO MONTHS AGO ON 5/15 ACCORDING TO DATE OF SHIPMENT, A FEW DAY'S BEFORE I HAD RECEIVED A NOTICE THAT MY FACTORY WARNING MAY BE EXPIRING BASED ON TIME AND MILES IT STATED THAT AVAILABLE COVERAGE EXPIRES ON 8/23/2013 WHICH WAS 21 DAY'S AFTER DATE OF FAILURE. I WAS TOLD THAT WAS TIME I HAD TO BUY ANOTHER EXTENDED WARRANTY, THAT IS NOT WHAT THE STATEMENT SAID.WHEN TOWED TO SHOP IT WAS THE WATER PUMP AND THERMOSTAT AT A COST OF $1,212.11 PLUS TOWING CHARGE THAT...

THE PASSENGER SIDE OCCUPANCY SENSOR IS A KNOWN PROBLEM AND I BELIEVE THAT THE WARRANTY EXTENSION HAS NOT COVERED ALL AFFECTED VEHICLES. MY BMW 2007 328 CONVERTIBLE HAS THE IDENTICAL PROBLEM AS IDENTIFIED BELOW. I HAVE REPAIRED IT AND IT HAS CONTINUED TO MALFUNCTION NUMEROUS TIMES SINCE, WHILE DRIVING AND WHILE STOPPED, CREATING A SAFETY ISSUE FOR ANYONE IN THE PASSENGER SIDE SHOULD THERE BE AN ACCIDENT. I BELIEVE THIS FAULTY PART MUST HAVE BEEN USED IN MY 2007 328 CONVERTIBLE. AUGUST 2008 -- BMW IS RECALLING 200,000 MY 2006 3 SERIES (SPORT SEAT), MY 2004-2006 5 SERIES (STANDARD AND SPORT SEAT), AND MY 2004-2006 X3 PASSENGER VEHICLES. A FATIGUE FAILURE OF THE FRONT PASSENGER SEAT OCCUPANT DETECTION MAT CAN OCCUR. IF THIS HAPPENS, THE FRONT PASSENGER AIR BAGS, WITH THE EXCEPTION OF THE HEAD PROTECTION SYSTEM, WILL BE DEACTIVATED AND THE AIR BAG WARNING LAMP AS WELL AS THE...

WENT TO UNLOCK DOORS WITH KEY FOB. ALL UNLOCKED BUT DRIVERS DOOR. HAD TO USE MANUAL KEY. ONCE INSIDE, RELOCKED DOORS AND THEN COULD NOT OPEN DRIVERS DOOR. ONLY WAY TO OPEN DRIVERS DOOR IS WITH MANUAL KEY FROM OUTSIDE. HUGE SAFETY ISSUE BMW! AND APPARENTLY A WELL KNOWN ONE. *TR

BATTERY SEEMED TO HAVE DRAINED...WHEN GIVEN A JUMP AND POWER WAS RESTORED, THE CAR HAD A THE STEERING LOCKED LIGHT UP RED. THE CAR TURNED ON FOR A FEW TIMES AND NOW IT DOESN'T TURN ON AT ALL. THERE SEEMS TO BE POWER IN THE CAR AS EVERYTHING LIGHTS UP BUT WHEN ATTEMPTING TO START NOTHING HAPPENS AND THE ONLY LIGHT ON THE DASHBOARD IS THE ONE OF THE STEERING LOCKED IN RED!!!! THIS HAS TO BE A DEFECT!!! *TR

ELECTRIC STEERING LOCK LIGHT ON MY 2007 BMW 328I COUPE COMES UP IN RED AND CAR WON'T START... INITIALLY THOUGHT IT WAS THE BATTERY BUT AFTER GETTING A JUMP START AND THE POWER FLICKERED OFF AND ON DIFFERENT FEATURES IN THE CAR THE CAR NEVER STARTED, THE KEY FOB KEPT BEING REJECTED FROM THE IGNITION BOX AND THE CAR EVENTUALLY WENT DEAD. I HAD TO MANUALLY LOCK AND UNLOCK DOORS AND LEFT IT SITTING OVER NIGHT. THE CAR WAS JUMP START AGAIN THE NEXT DAY AND RADIO, LIGHTS, TRUNK, DOOR LOCKS, AND SEAT BELTS, ETC. APPEAR TO BE WORKING FINE ELECTRONICALLY BUT THE CAR STILL WOULD NOT START... THE BRAKES FEEL TIGHT AND THE STEERING COLUMN IS TIGHT BUT CLICKS WHEN TURN LEFT AND RIGHT (FEELS SEMI-ENGAGED IF THAT'S POSSIBLE)... WAS WONDERING IF THE BATTERY IS JUST LOW AND DOESN'T TRIGGER THE STEERING WHEEL LOCK? SHOULD WE DISCONNECT THE BATTERY...