2008 DODGE CALIBER Unknown Or Other Problems

My car shuts down while driving These cars recalled July10 2008 Mine was made April18 2008 but has the same issue It could cost lives

2008 Dodge Caliber with approx. 135,000 miles on it. Rotted subframe and rusted crossbar. Vehicle started swerving as if driving on ice (in the summertime!). Took it to a reputable mechanic and he wouldn't even put it on a lift. He said it was too much of a risk. I understand this is common on this vehicle, it's dangerous and should be recalled! NO more Dodge vehicles for me, ever!

Subframe rusted front and rear Was driving tire axel/rod broke entire underneath rusted rotted

I was informed at inspection that the main front cross member has a huge hole in the center of it and is rusting out badly. At 162,356 miles this car will not pass safety inspection. This car is not safe for me or my family. No warning lamps or messages. I was told that one bad bump could do us in. We were told to contact the dealership and found out about the extended warranty that had already passed during the previous owners time. This should have been a recall, but what else can you expect from dodge.

TOOK VEHICLE IN FOR MAINTENANCE, TECHNICIAN TOLD US THE FRONT CROSSMEMBER IS RUSTED THROUGHOUT AND NEEDS REPLACEMENT. TECHNICIAN ADVISED IT'S A SAFETY ISSUE AND THIS MODEL WAS GIVEN EXTENDED WARRANTY UNDER X69 NOTICE, HOWEVER WARRANTY MAY HAVE ALREADY EXPIRED. I CONTACTED CHRYSLER REPRESENTATIVE AND THEY ADVISED THE VEHICLE WAS PART OF THE X69 NOTICE BUT WAS BEYOND THE EXTENDED WARRANTY THAT EXPIRED IN JUNE 2018. I AM THE SECOND OWNER OF VEHICLE BAND NEVER RECEIVED NOTICE OF THE ISSUE FROM CHRYSLER/DODGE. THE CROSSMEMBER RUST ISSUE APPEARS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM WITH THIS MODEL. I AM REQUESTING AN INVESTIGATION AND RECALL FOR THIS PART.

WHILE MY WIFE WAS DRIVING, THE FRONT SUBFRAME CROSSMEMBER RUSTED THROUGH, CAUSING HER TO LOSE CONTROL OF THE CAR AND SHE COULD NOT SAFELY OPERATE IT WITHOUT REPAIR. I MANAGED TO GET IT TO A FIRESTONE FOR THEM TO LOOK AT AND THEY REFERRED ME TO A DEALER AND TOLD ME NOT TO DRIVE IT ANYMORE BECAUSE IT IS UNSAFE. THIS IS A PROBLEM THAT DODGE KNEW ABOUT, BUT FAILED TO NOTIFY ME ABOUT. I ONLY FOUND OUT ABOUT THE PROBLEM FROM THE DEALERSHIP, WHO TOLD ME THAT THE EXTENDED WARRANTY THAT COVERS THIS PROBLEM HAD EXPIRED IN 2018 AND THAT I WOULD BE RESPONSIBLE FOR THE COST OF ANY REPAIRS. I OWNED THE CAR DURING THAT TIME AND I DID NOT KNOW OF THIS PROBLEM, SO I COULD NOT ACT ON GETTING IT REPAIRED. THIS NEVER SHOULD HAVE BEEN AN EXTENDED WARRANTY, THIS SHOULD HAVE BEEN A RECALL BECAUSE...

MY VEHICLE WENT IN FOR AN OIL CHANGE AND I WAS TOLD THAT MY SUB FRAME IS RUSTING AND UNTIL MY FRONT CROSSMEMBER IS REPLACED TO NOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE IT IS UNSAFE. MY NEIGHBOR WHO IS A MECHANIC SAID IT WAS A KNOWN PROBLEM WITH MY CAR AND HE BELIEVED THEIR TO BE A RECALL. I LOOKED ONLINE AND COULDN'T FIND A RECALL BUT EVENTUALLY I FOUND SOMETHING ON CHRYSLER'S WEBSITE ABOUT X69 CORROSION THAT AFFECTED 2008 TO 2012 CALIBERS AND JEEP COMPASSES. THEY KNEW ABOUT THIS PROBLEM. THEY NEVER TOLD ANYONE TO LOOK FOR THIS. I ASKED ABOUT IT AND THEIR SOLUTION WAS THEY OFFERED AN EXTENDED WARRANTY FOR 10 YEARS AND THAT MY WARRANTY EXPIRED SEVERAL MONTHS AGO SO I WAS OUT OF LUCK. MY FAMILY'S SAFETY HAS AN EXPIRATION??? I AM THE ONLY OWNER OF THIS VEHICLE AND NEVER HAD MY FRAME CHECKED NOW ALL OF...

LET ME START BY SAYING THAT I LOVE DRIVING MY 2008 DODGE CALIBER AND WISH THAT IT WAS WORTH REPAIRING ALL OF THE ISSUES THAT I AM RESEARCHING ARE COMMON PROBLEMS AMONG FELLOW OWNERS OF THIS YEAR, MAKE AND MODEL OF VEHICLE. AS A PERSON WHO PAYS CLOSE ATTENTION TO MY VEHICLE, REPAIR COSTS HAVE BEEN ADDING UP OVER THE PAST COUPLE OF YEARS. STARTING WITH A COMPLETE REPAIR RELATED TO THE SUSPENSION INCLUDING THE CONTROL ARMS/ BUSHINGS, SWAY BAR, BALL JOINTS, AND TIE RODS, WHICH HAS CAUSED MY 4 NEW TIRES TO EXPERIENCE A SHORTENED LIFESPAN DUE TO UNEVEN WEARING. RECENTLY, I HAD MY CAR IN THE SHOP TO ADDRESS A LOUD NOISE I WAS HEARING WHILE THE VEHICLE WAS IN MOTION. THE MECHANIC DIAGNOSED A LONG LIST OF ISSUES, INCLUDING RUSTING/CORROSION TO THE ENGINE CRADLE AND FURTHER PROBLEMS WITH THE SUSPENSION THAT IN THEIR PROFESSIONAL OPINION DETERMINED THE...

EXTENSIVE CORROSION ON FRONT AND REAR FRAME CROSSMEMBERS THAT SUPPORT DRIVE AND SUSPENSION COMPONENTS.

I WENT TO GET THE CAR INSPECTED AND THE MECHANIC TOLD ME THAT THE MOTOR MOUNTS ARE RUSTED OUT AND WILL NEED TO BE REPLACED. THE CAR HAS LESS THAN 70,000 MILES.

TOOK OUR DODGE CALIBER 2008 (MANUFACTURER DATE: 11/2007) TO A MECHANIC FOR REPAIRS THOUGHT TO BE STRUTS AND WAS TOLD THE FRONT CRADLE WAS RUSTED OUT AND NEED TO BE REPLACED TO CONTINUE ANY SAFE DRIVING. THIS WAS A 2007 RECALL BUT WAS NEVER INCLUDED IN ANY TITLED 2008 CARS THAT WERE MANUFACTURED IN 2007. THIS IS A VERY DANGEROUS ISSUE AND SEEMS TO BE REPORTED MORE OFTEN NOW AT THE 10 YEAR MARK. THIS IS SOMETHING THAT IS NOT A TRADITIONAL PROBLEM ON MOST VEHICLES AND SEEMS TO BE A MANUFACTURERS DEFECT. I WOULD LIKE TO SEE IT RECALLED, BECAUSE THE REPLACEMENT COST ON THIS IS IN THE THOUSANDS AND IT IS A SEVERE SAFETY HAZARD.

THE ELECTRONIC THROTTLE LIGHT CAME ON WHILE DRIVING ON IH35, I LOST POWER AND MYVEHICLE WENT ON 5 MILES PER HOUR THEN STOPPED IN THE MIDDLE OF THE HIGHWAY.

A FRAME RUSTED OUT AND EVERYTHING ELSE UNDER THE CAR HAS NO RUST AND NOW IT'S A SAGGY ISSUE

I DO NOT LIVE IN A SALT STATE. I OWN A 2008 CALIBER SINCE 2012 AND IT HAS A BADLY RUSTED OUT FRONT FRAME/CRADLE ASSEMBLY MAKING IT UNSAFE TO DRIVE. CHRYSLER ONLY REPLACES THIS PART UNDER A WARRANTY IN SALT STATES, NE IS NOT ONE OF THOSE STATES. THIS CAR HAS NO RUST ON THE BODY, HAS BEEN VERY WELL TAKEN CARE OF AND I KEEP IT IN THE GARAGE WHEN NOT DRIVING IT. TO MAKE THINGS WORSE, FIRESTONE DID A COMPREHENSIVE AUTO INSPECTION ON IT IN APRIL 2017, AND DID $1900 WORTH OF FRONT AND REAR END SUSPENSION WORK MAKING IT A SAFE CAR FOR ME TO GIVE TO MY 16 Y/O GRANDDAUGHTER, WHO'S BEEN DRIVING IT SINCE THEN DAILY WITH HER FRIENDS IN THE CAR. NEVER DID FIRESTONE MENTION THE RUSTED OUT CRADLE ASSEMBLY. BECAUSE THE CAR WAS MAKING STRANGE NOISES, I STOPPED AT LOCAL AUTO REPAIR SHOP...

THERE ARE CURRENTLY 0 RECALLS ON THE 2008 DODGE CALIBER 2.0. HOWEVER, A SIMPLE YOUTUBE SEARCH WILL BRING UP COMMON ISSUES WITH THE LOWER BALL JOINTS, WHICH CAUSE EXTREME TIRE WEAR AND EVEN SEVERE PULLING TO THE LEFT AND RIGHT WITH VERY LITTLE CONTROL. THE ANTI-LOCK BREAKING SYSTEM AS WELL AS THE THROTTLE BODY ARE HUGE ISSUES AS WELL. HOWEVER, IT WASN'T A YOUTUBE SEARCH THAT BROUGHT THIS TO MY ATTENTION BUT INSTEAD DRIVING ONE AND LOOKING INTO IT. TO MY SURPRISE THERE ARE ZERO RECALLS ON THIS VEHICLE.

AFTER STARTING ENGINE,AND BEGINNING TO DRIVE. CAR KEPT LOSING POWER AND HAD AN EXTREMELY ROUGH IDLE. COULD NOT GET TO GO OVER 25 MPH. ETC INDICATOR LIGHT WAS ON THE ENTIRE TIME. DROVE IT IMMEDIATELY TO MY LOCAL GARAGE.

I DID SOME WORK ON THE FRONT END, I REPLACED TIEROD END AND BALL JOINTS,ALSO PUT NEW TIRES ON THE CAR. I WAS SCHEDULING AN ALIGNMENT WHEN THE FRONT WOULD MAKE A POP SOUND AND A SLIGHT SNAP WHEN GOING OVER BUMPS AND WHEN THE STEERING WHEEL IS TURNED TO THE LEFT. I LOOKED TO SEE WHAT THE MATTER WAS AND THE SUB FRAME WAS CRACKED AND RUSTED...I WASH THE CAR 2 A MONTH ESPECIALLY IN WINTER. THE SUB FRAME ALSO CONNECTS THE SWAYBAR, STRUTS AND IT CANT GET ALIGNED DUE TO THE BROKEN FRAME.. ALL TOO PREMATURELY.

DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD AND MAKING A RIGHTHAND TURN, I HEARD A LOUD POP THEN THE CAR STARTED PULLING HARD TO THE RIGHT. I HAD TO DECREASE MY SPEED TO 25 MPH DUE TO THE SEVERE PULLING. HAD DAD LOOK AT CAR AND FOUND THE SUB FRAME WAS CRACKED IN HALF ON DRIVERS SIDE. THE CAR HAS NOT MOVED AT ALL SINCE THAT WAS FOUND. MY 3 YEAR OLD DAUGHTER IS OFTEN IN THIS VEHICLE!

SUB FRAME COMPLETELY RUSTED OUT, HEARD A CLUNKING NOISE COMING FROM FRONT WHEN GOING OVER BUMPS, TOOK IT TO MY MECHANIC AND TOLD ME I WAS LUCKY THE FRONT OF THE CAR DIDN'T FALL OFF AS THE CROSSMEMBER WAS SPLITTING AT THE SEAM, CAR HAS LESS THAN 70,000 MILES ON IT !

MY SUBFRAME IS RUSTED ALMOST COMPLETELY IN HALF, I CAN NOT DRIVE MY VEHICLE THE DEALER SAYS THE AC DRIPS RIGHT ON THAT FRAME AND THAT'S WHY IT IS RUSTED OUT.

INTAKE MANIFOLD RUNNER, ALTERNATOR, AND LIGHT ON INSIDE ON AND OFF OR STAY ON TO LONG. TIME PERIOD 2010-2016

FRONT AND REAR CRADLE IS VERY RUSTY NEEDS TO BE REPLACED ASAP,$1541.70

THE ENGINE CRADLE WAS COMPLETELY CORRODED AND HAD TO BE REPLACED, ALONG WITH THE ATTACHED LOWER CONTROL ARMS W/ BALL JOINTS. THIS COST $1,800. THERE WAS A RECALL ON THE 2007 MODEL. MECHANIC SAID THAT IT WAS SO CORRODED THAT IT WAS A MIRACLE THAT IT HADN'T BROKEN. THE CAR HAD ABOUT 57,625 MILES ON IT AT THE TIME.

HAD THE VEHICLE IN FOR REPLACEMENT OF A REAR WHEEL BEARING AND THE SHOP INFORMED ME THAT THE SUBFRAME IS NEARLY IN NEED OF REPLACEMENT. THE 2007 DODGE CALIBER SUBFRAME COVERAGE WAS EXTENDED TO 10 YEARS, BUT NOT FOR THE 2008. VEHICLE HAD APPROXIMATELY 135,000 MILES AT TIME OF INSPECTION.

FRONT K-FRAME CROSS MEMBER RUSTED OUT. EXTENDED WARRANTY AVAILABLE AND PROBLEM ACKNOWLEDGED THROUGH 2007 MODELS. HOWEVER, IT WAS OBVIOUSLY NOT RESOLVED BY 2008. SIGNIFICANT SAFETY ISSUE AS DRIVER WOULD NOT BE ABLE TO CONTROL THE VEHICLE WHEN THIS PART FAILS. DODGE WILL NOT WARRANTY. PIX ATTACHED

PULLED CAR OUT OF DRIVEWAY NOTICED TO GO STRAIGHT STEERING WHEEL WAS AT 10 O'CLOCK POSITION AND WHEN I HIT A BUMP FELT LIKE THERE WAS NO SUSPENSION. HAD IT TOWED IN TO BE CHECKED. SUB FRAME HAD COMPLETELY RUSTED THROUGH AND WAS DETACHED.

THE SUB FRAME OF THIS VEHICLE IS RUSTED OUT AND NEEDS REPLACING. THERE WAS A RECALL ON THE 2007 MODEL BUT NONE FOR THE 2008. THE VEHICLE WAS MANUFACTURED IN FEBRUARY 2008 AND, MOST LIKELY, WAS MADE WITH FAULTY 2007 PARTS. CALLS MADE TO CHRYSLER-DODGE RESULTED IN THEM SAYING THIS IS MY PROBLEM AND I HAVE TO PAY FOR A REPLACEMENT SUB FRAME WHICH WILL COST APPROXIMATELY $1000. IN ADDITION, A YEAR AGO, THE FRONT BUMPER HAD TO BE REPAINTED DUE TO SUB PAR PAINT JOB BY THE MANUFACTURER.

WHEN TURNING OVER THE KEY TO START THE VEHICLE, NOTHING WOULD HAPPEN. TURNING BACK THE KEY AND TRYING AGAIN WOULD TYPICALLY RESULT IN THE CAR STARTING. AFTER 2-3 MONTHS OF THIS INTERMITTENT BEHAVIOR, THE VEHICLE ALSO BEGAN TO ACT AS IF THE KEY WAS IN THE IGNITION AFTER IT WAS REMOVED (IT WOULD DING WHEN THE DOOR WAS OPENED AND NOT ALLOW ME TO LOCK MY DOORS).