2005 CHEVROLET IMPALA Unknown Or Other Problems

The car shuts off while driving. Loose power steering hazardous while turning at higher speeds... dangerous for. Vehicles in front or back . The car also jumps or jolts when driving. And looses power causing severe loss of control especially when icy or snow road conditions.

INTERNAL SECURITY SYSTEM FAILS WITHOUT NOTICE, CAR WONT START. SECURITY LIGHT STAYS ON OR FLASHES. CAR STILL WONT START. IT CAN BE HOURS OR EVEN DAYS BEFORE THIS PROBLEM RESETS AND CAR STARTS AND WORKS. BUT THEN WILL SOON FAIL AS SOON AS THE VEHICLE IS SHUT OFF. HAS COASTED ME SEVERAL JOBS, LOSS WORK HOURS, AND EXTRA MONEY I SPENT ON STARTER, BUT CAME TO FIND OUT IT WAS THE SECURITY FEATURE CHEVY PUT IN, I'M NOT THE ONLY ONE WHO HAS BEEN HAVING THIS PROBLEM.

WONT GO INTO PARK, KEY STUCK IN IGNITION WHILE TRYING TO PARK

I TRIED TO START MY CAR AND SMELLED SMOKE. SOMETHING UNDER THE HOOD OF MY CAR MUST HAVE BEEN BURNING BECAUSE THERE WAS A DISTINCT SMELL OF SMOKE WHEN I OPENED THE HOOD. WHEN THE ROAD SERVICE ATTENDANT TRIED TO JUMP THE VEHICLE THE NEXT DAY, SMOKE CAME OUT OF THE FUSE BOX AND THE CAR WOULD NOT START.

WHEN THE CAR IS SITTING AT A STOPLIGHT, OR PRESSING ON THE BRAKE FOR LONG PERIODS OF TIME, IT SHAKES LIGHTLY AND IT SHUTS DOWN. IT STARTS UP AGAIN AFTER RESTARTING THE CAR. THIS HAPPENS FREQUENTLY.

CAR WOULDN'T START AND WE THOUGHT IT WAS BATTERY SO WENT AND BOUGHT NEW BATTERY.. BUT THAT DIDN'T WORK EITHER.. SO CALLED A MECHANIC FRIEND AND ''HE TOLD US TO RUN A WIRE TO THE SMALL SCREW AND LARGE SCREW ON STARTER, AND IT STARTED!! BUT THERE'S A RECALL ON THESE IGNITIONS AND OURS NEEDS TO BE FIXED AS ITS OUR ONLY VECHILE..

I BOUGHT THIS CAR IN 2006. ONE YEAR LATER I NOTICED MY SPEEDOMETER WAS NOT WORKING. I SEARCHED ON LINE AND FOUND MANY COMPLAINTS ABOUT THE SPEEDOMETER FAILING TO WORK. RIGHT AFTER THAT THE TEMPERATURE GAUGE AND THE FUEL INDICATOR STOPPED WORKING. I WENT ON LINE AND FOUND THAT CHEVY TRUCKS HAD BEEN RECALLED FOR CLUSTER FAILURES. I TOOK MY CAR IN TO A CHEVY DEALER AND WAS TOLD I'D HAVE TO PAY $700+ FOR THE REPAIR. THE CLUSTER HASN'T WORKED ALL THESE YEARS AND I'VE HAD SEVERAL INSTANCES OF THE CAR ALMOST OVERHEATING, THE CAR RUNNING OUT OF GAS, AND BEING PULLED OVER FOR EXCEEDING THE SPEED LIMIT BECAUSE THE CLUSTER DIDN'T WORK. HOW CAN GM & CHEVY SAY THEY STAND BY THEIR PRODUCTS AND NOT RECOGNIZE DEFICIENCIES IN THEIR OWN PRODUCTS UNLESS IT MAKES NATIONAL NEWS. I'VE HELD ONTO THIS CAR AND HAVE MAINTAINED WELL SO I CAN...

THIS CAR HAS BEEN DOWN NOW SINCE MAY WITHOUT BEING DRIVEN BECAUSE OF THE IGNITION SWITCH WENT OUT AND KEPT US STRANDED. WE HAD TO HAVE THIS REPLACED WHICH WAS 450.00 IN OCTOBER AND NOW WE ARE WAITING FOR THE KEY FROM G.M. TO EVEN START THE CAR AND THAT WAS 2 MONTHS AGO AND WE ARE STILL WAITING FOR THE KEY AND IT'S NOW DECEMBER. G.M. SHOULD HAVE TO PAY FOR THIS IGNITION SWITCH AND THE MONTHS THAT WE HAD PAID FOR THE INSURANCE ON THIS CAR WITHOUT DRIVING IT. *TR

TRACTION CONTROL ENGAGES EVEN ON DRIVE EVEN SURFACES. ABS ALSO ENGAGE ON SMOOTH, EVEN AND DRY SURFACES.

PROBLEM STARTED FIRST WITH CAR NOT STARTING AND THEN IT WOULD START FEW MINUTES LATER, NOW CAR WILL SHUT OFF COMPLETELY WHILE DRIVING LOW SPEEDS/COASTING EVEN. CEL BLINKED SEVERAL TIMES ONCE STILL GIVING 0300 CODE. CHANGED SPARK PLUGS AND NOTHING CHANGED. I HAVE TO SHIFT CAR IN NEUTRAL WHEN THIS OCCURS AND RESTART ENGINE BUT HAVE TO PUSH ON ACCELERATOR TO GET TO START AND SHIFT INTO DRIVE. THIS IS DANGEROUS AND COULD KILL SOMEONE IF THEY DIDNT KNOW WHAT TO DO. *JS

AT 60000 VEHICLE HAD A TRANSMISSION SLIP. RE-MANUFACTURED TRANSMISSION INSTALLED UNDER EXTENDED CAR WARRANTY. AT 120000 VEHICLE HAD A TRANSMISSION SLIP. WORN INTERNAL TRANSMISSION GEARS REPLACED UNDER EXTENDED CAR WARRANTY. AT 160000 VEHICLE HAD A TRANSMISSION SLIP. RE-MANUFACTURED TRANSMISSION INSTALLED UNDER EXTENDED WARRANTY. SO AS YOU CAN CLEARLY DO THE MATH THE FIRST TRANSMISSION FAILED AT 60,000, THE SECOND AT 120,000 AND THE THIRD AT 160,000. NOW AT 180,000 IN THE MONTH OF JUNE 2013 THE TRANS IS SLIPPING AGAIN BUT I HAVE YET TO HAVE THE FOURTH INCIDENT EVALUATED.

I DROVE MY CAR TO WORK AND IT CRANKED FINE. I GOT IN IT TO GO HOME AND IT WOULDN'T START. I REPLACED THE BATTERY AND IT STILL IS HAPPENING. SOME TIME IT CRANKS AND SOMETIMES IT DOESN'T. I JUST WISH SOMEONE WOULD HELP ME FIGURE THIS OUT. *JS

THE ONLY EVENT LEADING TO THE FAILURE WAS A LOUD SOUND COMING FROM THE REAR LEFT SIDE OF THE VEHICLE. THE FAILURE INVOLVED A PULL TO THE LEFT AND EXCESSIVE HEAT BEING GENERATED FROM THE BACK LEFT TIRE. THE COMPONENT THAT FAILED ENDED UP BEING THE WHEEL BEARING. I HAD A MECHANIC REPLACE IT AND ALSO KEPT THE OLD PART. THE OLD BEARING WAS SCORCHED (THE MECHANIC SHOWED ME) AND WARPED. THE BEARING COULD HAVE LOCKED UP HAD IT NOT BEEN REPLACED, RESULTING IN AN ACCIDENT. *TT