2001 PONTIAC AZTEK Electrical System Problems

BOUT 3 WEEKS AGO CAR JUST KEEP ACTING UP HAD IT FOR ONE YEAR CANT READ CODES ON CAR KEEP OVERHEATING REPLACED RADIATOR CVL AXLE BRAKES OIL CHANGE TRANSMISSION FLUID CAR JUST DECIDED TO NOT PASS 50MPH BE DRIVEABLE ONE DAY DRIVING IT WENT TO A STOP SIGN BRAKE CAR CUT OFF I SEE CHECK GAUGES COME ON SERVICE LIGHT ON CANT READ CODES TO FIND OUT ANYTHING I THINK THE WIRING IS MESS UP REPLACED STARTED AS WELL JUST TO MUCH ONLY HAD IT FOR A 1AND A HALF

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2001 PONTIAC AZTEK. THE VEHICLE FAILED TO START WITHOUT WARNING. THE CONTACT CHARGED THE BATTERY AND STARTED THE VEHICLE, BUT THE FAILURE RECURRED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC WHO STATED THAT IT WAS NOT A BATTERY ISSUE. THE TECHNICIAN SUSPECTED AN IGNITION FAILURE AND PLANNED TO RUN A DIAGNOSTIC TEST THE FOLLOWING DAY. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 132,000.

THE CAR WAS PARK! THE KEYS IN, I PULLED KEYS OUT N THE CAR ROLLED BACKWARDS I HOP IN THE CAR N TURN THE WHEEL AND I FLEW OUT AND THE CAR RAN ME OVER TIRE ON MY BACK THE CAR DIDN'T STOP I PUSHING THE BRAKES NOTHING! *TR

THE KEY CAN BE PULLED OUT OR FALL OUT OF THE IGNITION CYLINDER WITH ALMOST NO RESISTANCE IN THE RUN POSITION, AND DOOR AJAR, KEYS IN IGNITION CHIMES NO LONGER OPERATE AFTER FIRST OCCURRENCE OF KEY FALLOUT. KEY FALLOUT OCCURS EASIER AS TIME GOES ON, I AM UNSURE OF THE EXACT DATE OF FIRST OCCURRENCE. *TR

AFTER ARRIVING HOME FROM WORK, I FOLLOWED MY NORMAL ROUTINE: PARKING IN MY DRIVEWAY, CUTTING OFF THE ENGINE AND REMOVING THE KEY BEFORE EXITING THE VEHICLE; HOWEVER, I COULD NOT REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH. NO MATTER WHAT I ATTEMPTED IT WOULD NOT BUDGE. MY ADULT SON ALSO TRIED TO REMOVE THE KEY FROM THE IGNITION SWITCH WITH NO SUCCESS. THE KEY WAS STUCK IN THE 2ND POSITION-- MEANING THAT THE VEHICLE WAS STILL "ON" JUST NOT RUNNING. I LEFT IT AS IT WAS WITH MY KEY STUCK IN THE IGNITION. THE NEXT MORNING, OF COURSE, MY BATTERY WAS DEAD BECAUSE THE IGNITION SWITCH WAS STILL IN THE "ON" POSITION. THE NEXT DAY I FOUND A TEMPORARY "WORKAROUND" ON YOUTUBE. HOWEVER, THE IGNITION IS STILL NOT FIXED AND I AM STILL USING THE TEMPORARY WORKAROUND. I HAVE CONTACTED A LOCAL GM DEALER AND GM OFFICES ONLY TO BE...

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2001 PONTIAC AZTEC. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE TRAVELING VARIOUS SPEEDS, THE VEHICLE SUDDENLY STALLED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE IT WAS FOUND THAT THE IGNITION SWITCH HAD FAILED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED ABOUT THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE AND VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE. *TR

2001 PONTIAC AZTEC. CONSUMER STATES THAT HE HAS SOME ELECTRICAL SAFETY ISSUES WITH HIS VEHICLE. HE HAS REPLACED THE HEADLAMP SWITCH ASSEMBLY, INSTRUMENT CONTROL ASSEMBLY, HVA TEMPERATURE CONTROL ASSEMBLY, FUEL PUMP MODULE ASSEMBLY AND TURN SIGNAL SWITCH ASSEMBLY. *KB THE LIGHTS THAT ILLUMINATED THE ASSEMBLIES BURNED OUT AND THE CONSUMER WAS UNABLE TO SEE THE INSTRUMENT PANEL AT NIGHT. DUE TO THE SENDING UNIT MALFUNCTIONING, THE FUEL GAUGE WOULD NOT REGISTER THE AMOUNT OF FUEL REMAINING IN THE TANK. BECAUSE THE SENDING UNIT WAS A PART OF THE FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY, THE ENTIRE UNIT REQUIRED REPLACEMENT. ALSO, WHILE DRIVING AT NIGHT WITH THE HEADLIGHTS ON, WHEN THE CONSUMER ACTIVATED THE TURN SIGNAL, THE HIGH BEAM LIGHTS WOULD COME ON. UPON TURNING THE SIGNAL OFF, THE HIGH BEAMS WOULD ALSO TURN OFF. *JB

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2001 PONTIAC AZTEC. THE CONTACT STATED WHEN HE ATTEMPTED TO TURN ON THE IGNITION, THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT START. HE ATTEMPTED SEVERAL TIMES BUT THE VEHICLE DID NOT RESPOND. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO HIS HOME. HE RESEARCHED ONLINE AND DISCOVERED MANY OTHER CONSUMERS HAVING A SIMILAR FAILURE. THE VEHICLE HAD NOT BEEN DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED AT THE TIME OF THE COMPLAINT. THE CURRENT AND FAILURE MILEAGES WERE APPROXIMATELY 117,000.

MY AZTEK WHICH HAS 92,000 MILES, SUFFERS FROM WHAT IS SOMETIMES CALLED "THE DISCO AZTEK" MEANING MY BCU WENT OUT. THIS HAS CAUSED THE PW, PL, GAUGE CLUSTER BACK LIGHT, REAR HATCH, AND RADIO TO QUIT WORKING. THIS IS NOT ONLY A SAFETY HAZARD BUT IS ANNOYING. IT IS ESTIMATED TO COST AROUND $300 TO FIX. GOOD NEWS IS THAT THERE IS A WAY TO MANUALLY RELEASE THE REAR HATCH, IF YOU'VE GOT SOME TOOLS. *TR

LOSS OF LIGHTS, GAUGES, HORN GOING ON, DURING DRIVING. *TR

MY CAR STARTED TO RUN HOT AS SOON AS THE CAR WAS DROVE ABOUT A QUARTER OF A MILE, BUT THE FLUID WASN'T HOT. MY HUSBAND REPLACED THE THERMOSTAT, HOSES, A COOLING SENSOR, AND SOME OTHER THINGS. WHEN NONE OF THAT WORKED, WE TOOK IT TO A RADIATOR SHOP AND THEY TOLD US WE NEED HEAD GASKETS. WE HAVE A 2001 AZTEK AND WHEN WE GOT THE CAR IN 2004, THE GASKETS BLEW BUT IT WAS UNDER WARRANTY. THAT IS AN EXPENSIVE JOB. GM NEEDS TO RECALL THIS VEHICLE AND GIVE US ALL SOME RELIABLE CARS AND TRUCKS! *TR

WE HAVE HAD PROBLEMS WITH OUR REAR HATCH OPENING PROPERLY SINCE WE PURCHASED THIS AZTEC NEW IN 2000. ABOUT 3 YEARS AGO, THE PROBLEM DEVELOPED INTO NOT BEING ABLE TO OPEN THE REAR HATCH WITH THE KEY FOB, DASH RELEASE BUTTON AND THE MOST FRUSTRATING AS WELL AS DANGEROUS ASPECT IS IT WOULD NOT OPEN EVEN BY USING THE VEHICLE KEYS. IT HAS NOW INCREASED TO THE POINT THAT THE CARS ALARM SYSTEM WILL GO OFF ON ITS OWN, THE AIR CONDITIONER QUITS WORKING, THE REMOTE ENTRY DOOR SYSTEM BECOMES USELESS AND ENTIRE VEHICLES ELECTRICAL DOOR LOCK SYSTEM FAILS. SINCE ONLY THE TWO FRONT DOORS WILL OPEN WITH THE VEHICLE KEY AND WE ALMOST ALWAYS HAVE CHILDREN IN CAR SEATS IN THE REAR, THIS HAS BECOME A DANGEROUS SITUATION. IN SEARCHING THE INTERNET, WE FOUND THAT IF WE PULLED THE FUSE THAT CONTROLLED THE VEHICLES COMPUTER MODULE, CALLED THE BCM,...

TL*THE CONTACT OWNS A 2001 PONTIAC AZTEK. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE AIR CONDITIONER WAS NOT WORKING. THE VEHICLE ALSO BEGAN EMITTING SMOKE, BUT THE FAILURE WAS REPAIRED. THE DEALER DIAGNOSED THE CAUSE OF FAILURE AS ELECTRICAL. THE PURCHASE DATE AND FAILURE MILEAGE WERE UNKNOWN. THE CURRENT MILEAGE IS 72,000. UPDATED 08/14/07. *JB

IT ALL STARTED WITH MY LIGHTS NOT TURNING OFF AT NIGHT. I WOULD HAVE TO DISCONNECT MY BATTERY TO GET THE LIGHTS TO GO OFF. THEN THE CHIMES WOULD NOT GO OFF. DISCONNECT BATTERY AGAIN. WAS TOLD TO REPLACE KEY FOB BATTERY. A COUPLE OF WEEKS LATER, DOOR LOCKS, GAUGES, ALL DASH LIGHTS, HORN, HEADLIGHTS, WENT CRAZY DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY WITH MY 7 YEAR OLD SON WITH ME. I HAVE TAKEN THIS VEHICLE TO 7 OR 8 PLACES INCLUDING THE PONTIAC DEALERSHIP AND NOONE KNOWS WHAT TO DO. NOONE!!! MY HORN WOULD BLOW INTERMITTENTLY SITTING AT A REDLIGHT ONE DAY, WITH TWO CARS IN FRONT OF ME. THE CAR IMMEDIATELY IN FRONT OF ME THOUGHT I WAS BLOWING AT THEM BECAUSE THE LIGHT HAD CHANGED AND STARTED TO GO, EVEN THOUGH THE CAR IN FRONT OF THEM WAS STILL STOPPED. THIS IS A SERIOUSLY DANGEROUS PROBLEM WITH THE ELECTRICAL...

DT*: THE CONTACT STATED THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM WENT DEFECTIVE AND THE CONTACT WAS LOCKED IN THE VEHICLE, AND WITHOUT ANY LIGHTS. THE SERVICE DEALER REPLACED THE IGNITION SWITCH TO RESOLVE THE ISSUE. THE CONTACT EXPRESSED CONCERN OF THIS POSSIBLY HAPPENING AGAIN. THE LIGHTS, DOORS AND WINDOWS FAILED ON A REGULAR BASIS. UPDATED 01/10/07. *JB

MY PONTIAC AZTEC MAIN POWER CONTROL MODULE (A COMPUTER UNIT CONTROLLING EVERY ELECTRICAL FUNCTIONS IN THE CAR INCLUDING STARTING THE CAR,CAR KEYS FUNCTION,WORKING EVERY CAR LIGHTS,OPENING DOORS,CONTROLLING BATTERY OUTPUT,SECURITY SYSTEM, AMONG OTHERS), WAS DEFECTIVE, DEAD, AND OUT OF ORDER .THE EVENTS LEADING UP TO THE FAILURE WERE SOME WEAK CLICKS YOU CAN HARDLY HEAR AND YOU DON'T KNOW WHERE IT IS COMING FROM WHEN YOU STOP THE CAR AND THEN IT DIES OUT. IT SOUNDS LIKE THE C.D. PLAYER WAS EJECTING C.D. WHEN THE FAILURE HAPPENED MY SUV WAS LIKE A DEAD MOUNTAIN, I WAS LUCKY IT HAPPEN ONE MORNING WHILE THE CAR WAS AT A STAND STILL. YOU PUT THE CAR KEY TO START IT AND IT GETS STUCK! YOU TRY TO JUMP STARTED BUT IT IS NOT THE BATTERY. YOU CANT DO NOTHING TO IT. PLUS, ALTHOUGH ITS AN UNSAFE AND DANGEROUS PROBLEM,OR CAR PART, ONLY THE DEALER...

WE HAVE HAD MULTIPLE THING GO WRONG WITH OUR 2001 AZTEK WE PURCHASED UNDER 40,000 MILES, NOW HAS ABOUT 60, 000- THE FRONT BRAKE ROTORS WERE WARPED- MECHANIC SAID THAT THEY HAD TO HAVE BEEN LIKE THAT FROM MANUFACTURER, AS HE HAS NEVER SEEN ANYTHING THAT BAD IN A CAR OF THAT AGE- AIR CONDITIONER IS NOT WORKING- WENT ON THE WEB, AND IT LOOKS LIKE MANY OWNERS ARE ALSO EXPERIENCING THIS DUE TO CRACKED/LEAKING COMPRESSORS- ALSO, FUEL GAUGE STOPPED WORKING SHORTLY AFTER WE PURCHASED- NEEDLE IS VERY SPORADIC, AND YOU NEVER KNOW HOW MUCH GAS YOU HAVE- THIS ALSO SEEMS TO BE A COMMON PROBLEM- HAD INTERIOR ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS AS WELL- THIS WAS THE ONLY THING FIXED BY PONTIAC- I RECENTLY CONTACTED PONTIAC, WHO WAS UNWILLING TO ADDRESS ANY OF THESE ISSUES. *JB

DT: THE CAR IS HAVING BRAKE PROBLEMS, AND THE CONSUMER HAS BEEN FIXING THE BRAKES EVERY SINCE SHE OWNED THE VEHICLE. THE AIR CONDITIONER HAS BEEN REPLACED 3 TIMES WITHIN THE FIRST YEAR SHE OWNED THE CAR. THE CAR WAS HAVING SENSOR PROBLEMS. IN ORDER FOR THE CONSUMER TO GET HER STICKER FOR THE YEAR, HER CAR HAD TO BE IN GOOD SHAPE. THE PLACE WHERE CONSUMER BOUGHT HER CAR IS COMMITTING FRAUD. THEY DIDN'T DO A THOROUGH CHECK ON CONSUMER'S CAR BEFORE SHE BOUGHT IT. THERE IS RUST UNDERNEATH HER HOOD. *TT

WHILE PULLING INTO A DRIVEWAY VEHICLE ACCELERATED. CONSUMER HAD TO APPLY THE EMERGENCY BRAKE IN ORDER TO STOP THE VEHICLE. *AK THE IGNITION WOULDN'T TURN ON, THE REAR HATCH WOULD NOT OPEN, THE COMPUTER SYSTEM HAD BLOWN OUT, THERE WERE NUMEROUS ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS, AND THE TIRE EXPLODED. *SC

HAVE HAD ON-GOING ISSUES WITH ELECTRICAL SYSTEM AND A/C EVAPORATOR DRAIN. HAVE HAD THE DRAIN CLEANED TWICE AND REPAIRED ONCE. STILL HAVE WATER DRAINING INTO PASSENGER COMPARTMENT. HAVE REPLACED BOTH FRONT HUBS, FOUR WIRING HARNESSES, THE FUEL PUMP, THE BATTERY, AND THE BLOWER MOTOR TWICE. MOST OF THESE FAILURES DUE TO CORROSION/MELTING. ANOTHER HARNESS NOW NEEDS TO BE REPLACED DUE TO CORROSION. *NM

THIS PONTIAC AZTEK HAS ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS THAT CAUSE THE ENTIRE VEHICLE TO SHUT DOWN WHILE DRIVING. WHEN IT OCCURS, EVERYTHING STOPS WORKING INCLUDING THE STEERING, THEREFORE MAKING IT IMPOSSIBLE TO STEER OFF THE ROAD SAFELY. WE HAVE BEEN IN 3 NEAR ACCIDENTS SINCE THE VEHICLE ELECTRONIC SYSTEM ALWAYS SEEMED TO SHUT DOWN WHILE WE WERE DRIVING ON BUSY HIGHWAYS. THE RESULT OF THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM FAILURE HAS BEEN 3 BURNED OUT FUEL PUMPS (EACH COSTING $700.00 TO REPLACE), AN ELECTRICAL HARNESS NEEDING REPLACEMENT AND CONTINUED ELECTRONIC FAILURES. ALL THE REPAIRS HAVE BEEN DONE AT MY EXPENSE. PONTIAC REFUSES TO PROVIDE ANY ASSISTANCE OR EVEN ASSIST WITH FINDING A REMEDY TO THE PROBLEM. *NM

8081 MILES: SRS LIGHT ON INTERMITTENTLY. (REFLASH PCM AND BCM) BATTERY GOES DEAD INTERMITTENTLY. (REPLACED BATTERY AND CLEANED TERMINALS) THE BRAKES SQUEAL AND ERRATIC FUEL GAUGE. (NO PROBLEM FOUND AT THAT TIME). *AK 8125 MILES: SES LIGHT ON AGAIN. (CLEANED CORRODED CONNECTORS FOR ABS AND FUEL PUMP) 8155 MILES: SES ON AGAIN. (REPLACED ALL FEMAILE TERMINALS AND CLEARED CODES. DROPPED FUEL TANK TO REPLACE FUEL MODULES, REPLACED ALL TERMINALS AT MODULE. 11541 MILES: AIR BAG LIGHT ON INTERMITTENTLY (COULD NOT REPRODUCE) TURN SIGNAL FUSE BLOWING REGULARLY (REPLACED NEUTRAL WIRING SAFETY SWITCH, ADJ FOR REVERSE LIGHTS) 12018: TURN SIGNALS BLOWING STILL. (REPLACED FLASHER UNIT) 23968 MILES: RIGHT FROMT WHEEL METAL ON METAL CLICKING NOISE AT ALL SPEEDS (NO PROBLEM FOUND) CHECK LEFT FRONT MASTER WINDOW CONTROL SWITCH FALLEN INTO DOOR (REPLACED SWITCH BEZEL IN DRIVERSIDE) 30233 MILES: METAL ON METAL CLICKING NOISE AGAIN (TURNED AND ROTATED ROTARS) DRIVERS SIDE WINDOW STICKS...

THE HEAD LIGHTS AND TAIL LIGHTS FLASHED INTERMITTENTLY. THE HORN WAS ALSO INOPERATIVE. THE DEALER INSPECTED THE VEHICLE BUT WAS UNABLE TO DUPLICATE OR CORRECT THE PROBLEM. *NLM

THE FRONT DRIVER SIDE WINDOW SWITCH FAILED DUE TO A BAD CONNECTION AT SWITCH, TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT ILLUMINATES. *YH

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM HAS BEEN REPLACED 3 TIMES DUE TO THE BATTERY LIGHT AND ENGINE CHECK LIGHT COMING ON. VEHICLE HAS BEEN TAKEN TO DEALER 20 TIMES. PLEASE PROVIDE ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.*AK

HAD JUST STARTED VEHICLE WHEN ABS LIGHT AND CHIMES SOUNDED. THIS WAS AN INDICATION ABS WAS NOT WORKING. DEALER INFORMED VEHICLE WAS OKAY TO DRIVE. THERE WERE NO PROBLEMS WITH BRAKES.*AK ABS STILL DO NOT WORK, DEALER FOUND DEFECTIVE BCM, ALSO REPLACED BLOWN RIGHT TURN BLINKER BULB AND REPLACED RIGHT REAR STOP LAMP BULB. *TT

AFTER STARTING VEHICLE AIR BAG LIGHT WOULD REMAIN ON. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM WOULD ALSO FAIL. VEHICLE WOULD ACT ERRATICALLY. HAD VEHICLE TEST DRIVEN TWICE BY MECHANIC BEFORE PROBLEM WAS NOTICED. MECHANIC DISABLED AIR BAG, BUT COULD NOT LOCATE CAUSE OF ELECTRICAL SYSTEM FAILURE.*AK