2003 MITSUBISHI GALANT Electrical System Problems

Check engine light suddenly came on and the vehicle lost all engine power and driving capabilities while driving at a low speed, turning a corner. There had been no other issues or indication of a failure of any kind. The car was pulled over on the roadside out of traffic and was able to be restarted with no problem. It was taken to a nearby auto parts store where they performed a free diagnostic check. The result that came back was generally regarding a vacuum issue in fuel system or lines. The gas cap lid and door were checked for proper closure and it was established they had been closed and sealed properly at the time the engine power failure occurred.

CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON AND THE CAR QUIT ON ME WHEN I WAS DRIVING IT

THE HORN WHICH IS PART OF THE AIRBAG STAYED ON WHEN I USED MY KEYLESS ENTRY REMOTE TO LOCK THE CAR. I HAD TO HIT THE HORN BUTTON IN THE STEERING WHEEL TO MAKE IT STOP. THE HORN ONCE AGAIN BECAME STUCK THE NEXT DAY WHEN I HONKED MY HORN ON THE FREEWAY TO PREVENT A CAR FROM COLLIDING WITH ME AS THEY TRIED TO SWITCH LANES. I COULD NOT GET THE HORN TO SHUT OFF THIS TIME AND HAD TO PULL OVER TO PULL OUT THE FUSE. I PLUGGED IN THE FUSE WHEN I ARRIVED HOME AND THE HORN CAME RIGHT BACK ON. I THEN USED A RUBBER MALLET TO TAP AROUND THE HORN BUTTON AND STEERING WHEEL WHICH FINALLY STOPPED THE HORN. THIS IS A HUGE SAFETY CONCERN AS MY HORN WILL NOW NOT SOUND AT ALL. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2003 MITSUBISHI GALANT. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE TRAVELING AT APPROXIMATELY 40 MPH, THE DEFROSTER FAILED TO ACTIVATE. THE CONTACT ATTEMPTED TO USE THE TEMPERATURE CONTROLS AND SUDDENLY THERE WAS AN ABNORMAL NOISE. THE FAILURE OCCURRED WHEN THE DEFROSTER, A/C, OR HEATER WAS ACTIVATED. AS A RESULT, THE CONTACT'S VISIBILITY WAS IMPAIRED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 87,000.

I STARTED MY CAR IN THE AFTERNOON, THEN I TURNED ON MY RADIO 3 MINUTES LATER. THEN, I SMELLED LIKE SOMETHING BURNT, THAT'S WHEN I SAW SMOKE CAME OUT OF THE FRONT RIGHT PASSENGER SEAT DOOR. I STOPPED IN A RANDOM TIRE SHOP TO SEE WHAT WAS GOING ON. A FEW MINUTES LATER, I SAW FIRE COMING OUT OF THE LOUDSPEAKER ON THE FRONT RIGHT DOOR. A GUY FROM THE TIRE SHOP HELPED ME TO EXTINGUISH THE FIRE. AFTER I MADE SURE THAT IT WAS SAFE ENOUGH FOR ME TO DRIVE, I DROVE MY CAR TO MY REGULAR AUTO SHOP TO GET IT CHECKED. THE INSIDE OF THE DOOR WAS MELTED (HALFWAY MELTED, BECAUSE THE FIRE WAS HANDLED EARLY) AND BLEW THE FUSE. *TR

TURNED HEAT ON AND HEARD A RATTELING NOISE UNDER DASH, WHEN HEAT CAME ON NOISE STOPPED. TURNED HEAT ON A WEEK LATER, NOTHING, ONLY COLD AIR. INDEPENDENT MECHANIC SAYS HEATER CORE, AFTER REPLACING THERMOSTAT AND COOLANT SENSOR. DEALERSHIP SAYS HEATER CONTROL VALVE, EITHER WAY, WITH SEEING HOW MANY PEOPLE ARE COMPLAINING ABOUT THE SAME THING, THERE IS CLEARLY A PROBLEM AT THE MANUFACTURING LEVEL. MAYBE MITSUBISHI SHOULD LOOK AT DOING SOMETHING LIKE ACCEPTING FULL RESPONSIBILITY AND REPAIRING THESE CARS. WITH THE ECONOMY WHAT IT IS THERE ARE FEW PEOPLE WHO ARE ABLE TO AFFORD THIS EXPENSE, MYSELF INCLUDED. SOMEBODY PLEASE HELP US! WHY SHOULD THE CONSUMER ALWAYS GET THE SHORT END OF THE STICK? *TR

HEAT STOPPED WORKING DUE TO A FAULTY HEAT CONTROL VALVE. FIRST IT STARTED MAKING A CLICKING NOISE AND NOW I HAVE NO HEAT AT ALL. *TR

THE PROBLEM STARTED ABOUT A YEAR AGO. THE CONSTANT RATTLING SOUND BEHIND THE DASHBOARD WHEN YOU FIRST TURN ON THE HEAT. AFTER ABOUT 10-15 SECS IT STOPS. THEN EVENTUALLY THE RATTLING SOUND STOPS COMPLETELY WHEN YOU TURN ON THE HEAT AND SO DOES THE HEAT AND THE DEFROSTER. I LOST HEAT THE FIRST TIME BACK AROUND DECEMBER OF 2008. IT CAME BACK ON WITHIN TWO WEEKS AND STAYED ON DURING THE WINTER. AROUND THE FIRST OF MAY, I LOST HEAT AGAIN AND IT HAS NOT BEEN BACK ON SINCE. *TR

IN 2007, HORN WOULD JUST BLOW ON IT'S OWN AT RANDOM TIMES. EVEN THOUGH THE BATTERY WAS ONLY ONE YEAR OLD AT THE TIME, I REPLACED IT AGAIN. LAST WEEK, 8/09/08 THE HORN JUST STARTED BLARING AGAIN WHILE DRIVING. IT NEARLY CAUSED AN ACCIDENT DUE TO ANOTHER CAR SWERVING OUT OF THE LANE NEXT TO MY VEHICLE AND INTO MY REAR DRIVER'S SIDE QUARTER-PANEL. SINCE THE FIRST INSTANCE, THERE SEEMS TO BE ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS, AS THE RADIO AND CLOCK ALWAYS RESET, THE TRIP ODOMETER RESETS TO ZERO, AND THE INTERIOR LIGHTS DO NOT WORK. THERE ARE NO BLOWN FUSES, AND NO DAMAGE TO THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM. NO ONE OR BUSINESS CAN SEEM TO FIND THE SOURCE OF THE PROBLEM. IT WILL TAKE OVER $5000 TO REWIRE THE CAR. AS A WORKING CLASS CITIZEN, AND UNEMPLOYED VETERAN, I DON'T HAVE THAT KIND OF MONEY, NOR ACCESS TO IT. I HAVE NO...

A FEW MONTHS AGO THE RADIO STARTED STAYING ON EVEN WHILE THE KEY WAS PULLED COMPLETELY OUT, THEN THE HORN FUSE HAD TO BE PULLED BECAUSE WHILE SITTING IN OUR GARAGE AND THE CAR NOT RUNNING, AND HADN'T BEEN RUNNING FOR 12 HOURS, THE HORN STARTED BLARING, UNTIL MY HUSBAND COULD DISCONNECT THE BATTERY, THEN WHILE DRIVING HOME ONE EVENING IN THE RAIN, I HAD THE WIPERS AND HEADLIGHTS ON THE WIPERS WOULD NOT SHUT OFF, EVEN WHEN PUT IN THE OFF POSITION. THEY WOULD NOT SHUT OFF UNTIL I SHUT THE HEADLIGHTS OFF. I AM SCARED FOR MY SAFETY AS WELL AS OTHERS TO DRIVE MY CAR, AND ESPECIALLY TO USE THE CRUISE. I FEAR THAT IF I DO USE THE CRUISE IT WILL STAY ON, AND I WILL BE INVOLVED IN A DEADLY CRASH. NO ONE SEEMS TO KNOW WHAT IS THE PROBLEM. IT SEEMS TO REALLY ACT...

WHEN EVER I CRANK THE CAR UP IN THE MORNING OR AFTERNOON AFTER THE CAR SITS FOR A WHILE THE EXHAUST SMELLS LIKE BAD EGGS. THE RADIO/CD WAS REPLACE THREE TIMES ALREADY AND THE CD PLAYER STILL SOUNDS STATICTY WHEN PLAYIND DISC AND THE SPEAKERS POP WHEN THE RADIO IS COMPLETELY OFF. ALSO WHEN EVER SOME GETS IN AND OUT OF THE CAR THEY GET SHOCKED BY IT TO THE POINT WHERE U CAN ACTUALLY SEE THE SPARK FROM THE SHOCK. AND WHEN THE CAR IS JUST SITING RUNNING U CAN FEEL THE CAR SHAKE LIKE IT IS ABOUT TO CUT OFF.