2013 MAZDA MAZDA3 Power Train Problems

Transmission Control Module malfunction. The AT light came on and the car made a jerking motion and a clunking noise. It lost power and would not shift which is very dangerous in moving traffic. It put me at risk for getting hit by another vehicle not expecting the abrupt change in speed by my vehicle. The check engine light is now lit up. There were no warning lights before the vehicle’s transmission malfunctioned. A code came up on the vehicle when tested. U0101 lost communication with TCM. From what I have read, researched, and have been told this issue is very common for certain years of Mazda 3’s including mine.

Steering becomes unpredictable and stiff accompanied by surging and loss of power. Check engine light comes on. Code P0882

TRACKING NUMBER 11461728 ADDED INFORMATION EMAIL FROM MANUFACTURE MITSUBUSHI ELECTRIC INCORPORATED

The TCM - Transmission Control Module defected - gear lights disappear, down shifting problems, driving, stop in the middle of highway or road while driving, kick / jerk when ATF lights comes on goes off then check engine lights comes on all fluids has been changed drove good for a few days started again took to advance auto parts and auto zone codes stated electrical TCM computer issues, delayed shifting, check engine and ATF lights comes on , DTC codes U1000, LOST COMMUNICATION WITH TCM. The TCM overheats because it is sitting directly on the transmission, under the battery box. My child safety was put at risk daily. This car fails to stop at a traffic light, a slow response when approaching a stop sign or traffic light is dangerous and scary. Mazda's are not safe to drive with a bad TCM, When a driver cannot anticipate the acceleration or...

There is a loud winding sound sound coming from the transmission and sound of metal (broken teeth) as well. We took it to a Mazda dealer and they quickly identified the issue as a failing transmission. As a result I was able to find that a service bulletin aligned with this issue (TSB No. 0500414) and confirmed this with the dealer. This service bulletin indicates a manufacturing issue but only applied a warranty of 6 years or 60,000 miles. Yes, our car is over the 6 yrs and only 800 miles over the 60,000 miles, however, my concern is that this is a known issue that clearly becomes a safety issue. We got a price from the dealer of $4,500 for a new transmission so I took it to a transmission shop for a 2nd opinion. They confirmed the failing transmission and indicated the car should not be driven for...

WHEN YOU PRESS ON THE BRAKES ALL THE VEHICLES LIGHTS FLASHING FROM BRIGHT TO DEEM THE HEADLIGHTS, INSIDE PANEL LIGHTS FLASHING FROM BRIGHT TO DEEM MAKING IT DIFFICULT TO SEE AT NIGHT IT ACTS LIKE CAR IS LOSING POWER

MY MAZDA 3 SEDAN WITH A 6 MT HAS AN ISSUE WHILE COASTING IN 4TH GEAR BETWEEN 25-40 MPH AND ACCELERATING UP HILL THAT THE GEAR WILL JUMP INTO NEUTRAL WITHOUT DEPRESSION OF THE CLUTCH. THERE IS NO GRINDING OR OTHER ODD NOISES OTHER THAN THE SHIFTER SNAPPING OUT OF GEAR. THIS HAPPENS OFTEN ENOUGH THAT I HAVE BEGUN TO SKIP THE GEAR ENTIRELY.

SOMETIMES THE SHIFTER JUMPS OUT OF 3RD GEAR OVER A ROAD BUMP WHEN ACCELERATING AFTER DECELERATION AT 30-40 MPH. IT ALWAYS HAPPENS WHILE CITY/SUBURB DRIVING. IT'S STARTLING WHEN IT HAPPENS AND I TRY TO QUICKLY PUT THE CAR BACK IN A GEAR. IT WASN'T HAPPENING THAT FREQUENTLY BUT NOW IT'S ABOUT 1X/MONTH. THIS FIRST HAPPENED A FEW YEARS AGO.

WHILE COASTING, APPLICATION OF THE BRAKES WILL MAKE THE HEADLIGHTS FLICKER. AN ECU VOLTAGE MONITOR REGISTERS A DROP IN THE VOLTAGE THAT LASTS FOR AS LONG AS THE HEADLIGHTS FLICKER WHICH IS APPROXIMATELY 3 SECONDS. MAZDA IS AWARE OF THIS PROBLEM AND APPARENTLY A SOFTWARE UPDATE TO THE ECU WILL SOLVE IT. THEY OFFERED THIS FOR FREE UNDER THE 6YR/60K MILE WARRANTY BUT APPARENTLY DID NOT TELL THEIR CUSTOMERS.

SHIFT LEVER GEAR CONTROL EXTREMELY DIFFICULT TO SHIFT INTO GEAR AFTER STARTING THE CAR AND APPLYING THE BRAKE FROM A STATIONERY POSITION

I HAD WARMED UP MY CAR FOR APPROX. 5 MINUTES ON 1/1/2017, DROVE APPROXIMATELY 10 MILES TO A NEARBY CITY, AND TURNED ONTO A CITY STREET DRIVING 30 MPH. I ARRIVED AT A TURN ONTO ANOTHER CITY STREET, COMPLETED THE TURN, AND AS I BEGAN TO ACCELERATE, MY VEHICLE FELT AS IF IT HAD SHIFTED INTO NEUTRAL ON ITS OWN. AS I PRESSED THE ACCELERATOR, THE RPMS WOULD RISE BUT THE VEHICLE WAS ONLY COASTING DOWN THE STREET. I CHECKED THE GEAR SHIFTER, AND IT WAS STILL LOCATED IN THE DRIVE POSITION (AUTOMATIC) I THEN CHECKED THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER AND IT SHOWED DRIVE WITH NO MAINTENANCE OR PROBLEM LIGHTS ILLUMINATED. I IMMEDIATELY PULLED OVER SHIFTED THE VEHICLE INTO PARK, THEN BACK INTO DRIVE. EVERYTHING SEEMED NORMAL, SO I CONTINUED DRIVING DOWN THE SAME STREET AND ABOUT 10 SECONDS LATER THE SAME ISSUE HAPPENED. I FOLLOWED THE SAME PROCESS AS BEFORE...

EXPERIENCING NOISY/CLUNKY SHIFTING WHEN MOVING UP OR DOWN BETWEEN 1ST, 2ND AND 3RD GEARS. (LOWER TWO GEARS WORSE) HAPPENS WHETHER CAR IS STATIONARY OR MOVING BUT SEEMS WORSE WHEN STATIONARY, THOUGH THIS MAY BE DUE TO LESS ENGINE NOISE AND BEING ABLE TO FOCUS MORE ON THE ISSUE. STARTED TO HAPPEN BEFORE EVEN REACHING 50K MILES.

WHEN BREAKING MY HEADLIGHTS FLICKER ON AND OFF. IT ONLY OCCURS WHEN BREAKING. SECOND ISSUE: WHEN BACKING UP FROM REVERSE GEAR AND PUTTING CAR INTO DRIVE THE TRANSMISSION HESITATES TO ENGAGE AND THE CAR SURGES FORWARD LIKE IT IS NOT IN GEAR. IT WILL ALSO MAKE A METAL ON METAL SOUND WHEN FOOT IS NOT ON THE BRAKE PEDAL. THIRD ISSUE: AT 55 MPH THE VEHICLE SHAKES. DEALER SAID THEY CANNOT DUPLICATE IT BUT IT HAPPENS ALWAYS AT 55MPH.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 MAZDA MAZDA3. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE STOPPED AT A STOP LIGHT, THE VEHICLE REVVED AND VIOLENTLY JERKED FORWARD WITHOUT WARNING. THE FAILURE RECURRED NUMEROUS TIMES. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO A DEALER OR DIAGNOSED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOT MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 23,000. UPDATED 05/11/16*LJ *TR

MY CAR HAS HAD AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION ISSUES SINCE I BOUGHT IT. INTERMITTENT LACK OF ACCELERATION AFTER COMING OUT OF A PARKING LOT, MAKING A SLOW TURN AND SLOWING DOWN THEN NEEDING TO SPEED UP ON THE FREEWAY. I HAVE ALMOST BEEN REAR ENDED MULTIPLE TIMES BECAUSE OF THE CAR'S INABILITY TO SPEED UP IMMEDIATELY. THE DEALER I GO TO HAS TEST DROVE IT AND SINCE THE PROBLEM DIDN'T OCCUR ON THE SHORT TEST DRIVE THEY COULDN'T GET MAZDA TO APPROVE THE REPAIR. THE TECHNICIAN HAS DEALT WITH THIS PROBLEM BEFORE ON MULTIPLE MAZDA 3'S AND TOLD ME IT WAS THE TRANSMISSION VALVE BODY THAT NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. I CONTACTED MAZDA AND THEY BASICALLY TOLD ME TO POUND SAND, THAT THEY WOULDN'T FIX IT UNLESS IT OCCURRED WHILE THE DEALER TECH DROVE. THEY DIDN'T OFFER TO GIVE ME A RENTAL CAR SO THE TECH COULD KEEP IT FOR A FEW...

I STARTED THE CAR AND THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. SHIFTED INTO GEAR THE "AT" LIGHT CAME ON. BROUGHT IT IN FOR SERVICE AND THEY NEED TO REPLACE THE "TRANS VALVEBODY". LOOKS LIKE A RECURRING THEME HERE. THE CAR IS A 2013 MAZDA3 I GRAND TOURING HATCHBACK THAT IS ONLY ABOUT 7 MONTHS OLD AND HAS LESS THAN 7000 MILES. *TR

MY CAR SUDDENLY SHIFTED INTO NEUTRAL AND WOULD NOT SHIFT OUT OF IT. I COASTED TO A STOP, STOPPED THE CAR, WAITED A BIT, THEN RESTARTED. IT WENT ABOUT HALF A MILE AND THE SAME THING HAPPENED. THE DEALER SAID IT'S A FAULTY TRANSMISSION VALVE BODY (AND I WAS TOLD IT'S A KNOWN ISSUE, BUT DIDN'T SEE ANYTHING HERE OR ON MAZDA'S WEBSITE). I WAS VERY LUCKY TO HAVE JUST GOTTEN OFF THE FREEWAY BEFORE THIS HAPPENED. *TR

MY NEW 2013 MAZDA3 WITH ONLY 3660 MILES FAILED ON A BUSY HIGHWAY. FIRST, THE ENGINE MADE A LOUD NOISE EVERY TIME I SHIFTED GEARS (MANUAL SHIFT.) THEN, I COULD NOT CHANGE GEARS AT ALL, AND THE ENGINE FAILED----I JUST BARELY GOT IT TO THE SHOULDER BEFORE IT QUIT ENTIRELY. THE DEALER SAYS THE CLUTCH NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. I'VE HAD THE CAR LESS THAN 6 MONTHS. *TR