2011 MAZDA MAZDA3 Power Train Problems

The contact owns a 2011 Mazda Mazda3. The contact stated while driving at an undisclosed speed, the clutch became inoperable. There were no warning lights illuminated. The dealer was not contacted. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was notified but no additional assistance was provided. The failure mileage was approximately 80,000.

I GOT THIS CAR BACK IN AUGUST NOT KNOWING ABOUT MAZDA'S CLUTCH ISSUES. I GOT THE CAR WITH ABOUT 101,000 MILES, AND WHEN I GOT TO ABOUT 112,000, MY CLUTCH FAILED OUT IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE WHILE I WAS DRIVING ON A HIGHWAY IN KANSAS. I WAS SHIFTING UP FROM 4TH GEAR TO 5TH GEAR AND THE CAR FELT LIKE IT WENT INTO NEUTRAL, BUT NONE OF MY GEARS WERE WORKING. FORTUNATELY, I WAS ABLE TO PULL OVER TO THE SHOULDER AND WAIT FOR A TOW TRUCK, BUT MY CAR WOULD NOT DRIVE. I DO NOT KNOW WHEN THE CLUTCH WAS REPLACED BY THE PREVIOUS OWNER, BUT AFTER RESEARCHING THIS ISSUE, I BECAME WORRIED THAT THIS IS GOING TO CONTINUALLY BE AN ISSUE FOR MY CAR FOR THE REST OF THE TIME THAT I HAVE IT. IT IS AN EXPENSIVE FIX, AND I CANNOT AFFORD TO REPLACE MY CLUTCH...

DASH BOARD PASSENGER SIDE SEAM ON DASH IS SPLITTING ABOVE AIRBAG

SUDDEN CLUTCH FAILURE. *TR

PREMATURE CLUTCH FAILURE. MAZDA3 WITH MANUAL TRANSMISSION. CLUTCH SUDDENLY BURN OUT AND CANNOT SHIFT GEAR WHILE DRIVING. HEARD SOMETHING WAS FALLING DOWN UNDER THE CLUTCH AND THEN SMELL SMOKY ODOR. CAR DEAD IN MIDDLE OF LOCAL ROAD. ONLY HAVE 16,XXX MILES AND 2.5 YEARS ON THIS CAR. CONTACT THE MAZDA EXPERIENCE CENTER, BUT THEY THINK IT IS A NORMAL WORN OUT PART AND WARRANTY WOULD NOT TAKE CARE OF IT. HOWEVER, I THINK THERE IS POSSIBLE A DESIGN DEFECT IN THEIR CLUTCH. *TR

AROUND 3000 MILES, MANUAL TRANSMISSION DEVELOPED ISSUE OF NOT GOING INTO FIRST GEAR FROM A STOP. DEALER INVESTIGATED AND SAID THAT THIS IS A QUIRK WITH THE TRANSMISSION AND CAN BE SAFELY IGNORED BY STARTING IN A HIGHER GEAR, WHICH WEARS OUT THE TRANSMISSION FASTER. AS OF THREE WEEKS AGO AT THIS POINT, TRANSMISSION DEVELOPED INTERMITTENT ISSUE WHERE IT "POPS" OUT OF SECOND GEAR OR GRINDS AND DAMAGES INTERNAL PARTS BEFORE AUTOMATICALLY MOVING TO NEUTRAL. THIS OCCURS AFTER A NORMAL SHIFT. ALSO HAS DEVELOP ISSUE WHERE IS DOES NOT PROPERLY GO INTO REVERSE, INSTEAD GOING INTO FIRST GEAR. DEALER SAYS THAT SINCE THERE ARE NO OBD2 COMPUTER CODES COMING UP, THEY ARE NOT ALLOWED BY THE MAZDA HEAD OFFICE TO REMOVE THE TRANSMISSION AND PHYSICALLY LOOK AT IT. CURRENTLY I AM VERY HESITANT TO DRIVE THE CAR AT ALL DUE TO THE FACT THE I DRIVE IN HEAVY TRAFFIC WHILE...

I FIRST TOOK MY CAR IN TO THE DEALER WHEN I NOTICED THE CLUTCH SLIPPING AFTER I SHIFTED OR WHEN I ACCELERATED AT FREEWAY SPEEDS. NOW, AFTER 16 DAYS, I FINALLY HAVE MY 2011 MAZDA 3 BACK WITH A COMPLETELY NEW CLUTCH ASSEMBLY. MAZDA PAID 50%, NOT INCLUDING THE RENTAL CAR. MY FINAL BILL: $700 (NOT INCLUDING THE RENTAL CAR COST FOR THIS TIME). THEY REPLACED NOT ONLY THE CLUTCH DISC, BUT THE FLYWHEEL AND ASSOCIATED BEARINGS AND PARTS. APPARENTLY THEY CONSIDER REPLACING THE CLUTCH AT 2 YEARS / 20K MILES TO BE "NORMAL WEAR AND TEAR" AND NOT UNDER WARRANTY. IN MY OPINION, THE FACT THAT IT WORE OUT SO QUICKLY, IN ITSELF, MEANS IT WAS DEFECTIVE. I HAVE DRIVEN A MANUAL CAR FOR ALMOST 10 YEARS (PREVIOUSLY A MAZDA RX-7) WITHOUT ANY ISSUES. I DO NOT ABUSE MY CAR, I DO NOT RIDE THE CLUTCH, AND I DO...

TRANSMISSION HESITATES WHEN DOWNSHIFTING. ON GOING ISSUE. *TR

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2011 MAZDA MAZDA3. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 10 MPH THE RPMS INCREASED AND THE VEHICLE BEGAN TO HESITATE WHILE ACCELERATING. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING. THE TECHNICIAN STATED THE FAILURE OCCURRED DUE TO DRIVER ERROR. THE TECHNICIAN STATED THE FLY WHEEL, CLUTCH, PRESSURE PLATE, AND THE TRANSMISSION HAD TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE VIN WAS NOT AVAILABLE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 16,000.

I WENT ON A TRIP AND HAD MY TIRES ROTATED AND NO BRAKE WORK HAD BEEN DONE TO MY CAR. THE DEALER THAT ROTATED TIRES MECHANIC CALLED ME TO LOOK AT MY CAR AND SHOWED ME THAT MY BRAKES WERE WEARING UNEVENLY. THE ONE ON THE RIGHT SIDE HAD ABOUT 10MM OF BRAKE PAD ON IT AND THE LEFT SIDE HAD ONLY ABOUT 3MM OF BRAKE PAD LEFT. THE MECHANIC INSTRUCTED ME TO TAKE MY CAR BACK TO WHERE I BOUGHT IT AND HAVE THEM CHECK IT OUT BECAUSE THIS TYPE OF BREAK WEARING IS NOT NORMAL. I TOOK IT TO MAZDA THEY CHECKED IT OUT AND STATED THEY COULD NOT FIND ANYTHING WRONG AND THAT THERE WERE NO OTHER PROBLEMS WITH THIS YEAR MODEL SO HENCE WHY I AM REPORTING MY PROBLEM. HOPEFULLY NO ONE ELSE HAS THIS PROBLEM WITH THEIR CAR. BECAUSE I HAD A WONDERFUL EXPERIENCE BUYING...

I STOPPED AT A STOP SIGN AND MY CAR STARTED ACCELERATING AS IF THE ACCELERATOR WAS FULLY DEPRESSED. MY FOOT WAS SQUARELY ON THE BRAKE AT THE TIME BUT I WAS BEING PULLED SLOWLY FORWARD ON TO A BUSY ROADWAY. I AM AN EXPERIENCED DRIVER AND WAS ABLE TO TURN THE CAR SHARPLY TO THE RIGHT ALONG THE SHOULDER TO AVOID ONCOMING TRAFFIC. I SHIFTED INTO PARK, AND THEN SHUT THE ENGINE OFF. MY FOOT PLACEMENT WAS NO WHERE NEAR THE ACCELERATOR, AND THERE WERE NO OTHER OBSTRUCTIONS (I.E. CARPETS). WHEN I RESTARTED THE CAR THE ENGINE SOUNDED NORMAL. AS AN ENGINEER, I AM FAIRLY CERTAIN THAT WHAT EVER HAPPENED WAS ELECTRONIC IN NATURE, NOT A MECHANICAL OBSTRUCTION OR STICKING LINKAGE (I DID NOT TOUCH THE GAS PEDAL WHEN I RESTARTED). PRIOR TO THIS INCIDENT I HAD BEEN DRIVING SLOW THOUGH A BUSINESS PARK AT 10 TO 15 MILES AND...