2010 MAZDA MAZDA3 Power Train Problems

Transmission control module issues. Car was driving on the expressway and wouldn’t shift out of second gear. Engine light and AT light came on. Had to drive slowly on the expressway and get off on the closest exit. Cars were speeding past me and I had to be careful not to get hit. Research and shop shows the 2010 Mazda 3 vehicles have lots of issue with the TCM because they get hot due to there location.

The contact owns a 2010 Mazda Mazda3. The contact stated while exiting a parking lot, the vehicle failed to accelerate as designed with the power train warning light blinking. The vehicle also started jerking. After the vehicle accelerated, the vehicle started operating normally. The vehicle was not diagnosed or repaired. The manufacturer was not contacted. The failure mileage was 150,000.

The Transmission Control Module (TCM) has gone out on my car, causing it to shift to 2nd gear while doing 75mph with cars around me, and would no longer shift out of 2nd gear, or into reverse. It was an extremely dangerous situation that made me come very close to wrecking into a car, as well as the many cars behind me that had to emergency brake due to my rapid deceleration, especially without and brake lights coming on because it was engine braking. Doing a simple google search show that this is an extremely well-known problem effecting almost every Mazda 3 that used this TCM in 2010-2011. Any mechanic will tell you it's a known problem, and that it was due to where and how Mazda placed the computer, which causes it to overheat and fail without warning. I'm not sure why there has not been a recall on...

Car will stall out and restart immediately and I temporarily lose power steering when turn signal is engaged, sometimes when the wheel turns and when I disengage the e-brake. My mechanic cannot find the problem and I have read many many forums that show the same issue with the same vehicle. Happens every time I drive the car for weeks and then will disappear for a couple weeks and then come back. This happens even when I'm doing 65 on the highway!

I HAD MY MAZDA 3 FOR A COUPLE OF DAYS AND I'M DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD AND ALL OF A SUDDEN MY CAR JERKED SO BAD I THOUGHT I HAD HIT THE BRAKES OR HOT SOMETHING I COULDN'T SEE. BUT I HADN'T HIT THE BRAKES NOR DID I HIT ANYTHING. I TOOK IT TO MAZDA IN PANAMA CITY AND THEY TOLD ME IT WAS MY TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE. IT FORGETS TO SHIFT. IT'S LOCATED UNDER THE BATTERY AND I'M AWARE THAT THIS PART OF CAR ENGINE IS SUPPOSED TO BREATH TO WORK RIGHT. I JUST KNOW IT DOESN'T WORK RIGHT AND EVERY TIME I DROVE MY CAR IT'S STEADY JERKING AND SNATCHING MY WHEEL. I CAN'T AFFORD TO PAY FOR SOMETHING LIKE THIS AND I HAVE NO OTHER VEHICLE TO DRIVE. I KNOW THIS IS AN ENGINE PROBLEM SO WHAT CAN BE DONE

FOR THESE INCIDENTS THERE WAS FRIENDS WHO WAS IN MY VEHICLE DURING AND EVEN WITNESS THESE INCIDENTS HAPPEN WHILE IN THE VEHICLE. ON THE WAY TO WORK I TRIED TO DOWNSHIFT ON THE SPORT MODE LIKE I USUALLY DO. BUT IT CONTINUED TO STAY IN 5, THEN ALL OF SUDDEN IT JUMPED TO 3 AS I SLOW DOWN A BIT THEN ALL OF SUDDEN TO 1 WHICH MADE THE CAR JERK A BIT BOTH TIMES DUE TO GEAR DROP AND CAUSE THE CAR TO REV AT A HIGHER RPM. WHICH ALMOST COST AN ACCIDENT. THIS IS HAPPENING QUITE OFTEN SO I HAD TO SWITCH TO NORMAL DRIVE MODE( D) ON ANOTHER OCCASION THE ABS, TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT WOULD TURN ON AFTER MAKING A QUICK LEFT OR RIGHT TURN BUT THIS HAPPEN ONLY A FEW TIME, THE ONLY WAY TO TURN THE LIGHTS OFF WAS TO PARK SOMEWHERE SAFE AND TURN...

WHEN VEHICLE IS IN PARK, THE SHIFT LEVER GETS STUCK AND DOES NOT SHIFT OUT OF 'PARK'.

10+ INCIDENTS OF SUDDEN UNINTENDED ACCELERATION SINCE AUG 2018. ALWAYS AT FREEWAY SPEED OF TRAFFIC, I.E. 70-75MPH. OCCURS WHEN INTENTIONALLY DECELERATING (EASING OFF THE GAS PEDAL AND INITIATING BRAKING). RPMS JUMP TO 7 OR 8. ACCELERATION IMMEDIATELY DROPS AND STEADS AFTER TAPPING/APPLYING PRESSURE TO BRAKES. HAS BEEN TAKEN RALPH THAYER DEALERSHIP 3 TIMES -- AUG2018, JAN2019, FEB2019. EACH TIME VEHICLE KEPT FOR A WEEK BUT UNABLE TO DUPLICATE ISSUE. DATA RECORDER WAS INSTALLED IN JAN2019. DESPITE A SEVERAL MINUTE LONG EPISODE ON FEB 22, 2019 IN WHICH THE CAR BEHAVED ERRATICALLY (BUCKLING AND JOLTING) AND WOULDN'T ACCELERATE MORE THAN 60 MPH WHILE THE RPMS WERE HIGH (4-5) FOR SEVERAL MINUTES, THIS WAS SOMEHOW NOT SENSED BY THE DATA RECORDER. MY OWN GUESS IS AN ISSUE WITH THE PCM OR THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE. HAVE SUAS AFFECTED TRANSMISSION? SEEMS TO BE A KNOWN ISSUE YET THE DEALER/MAZDA REACTION IS PERFUNCTORY...

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA 3. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 40 MPH, THE TRANSMISSION FAILED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE VEHICLE JERKED AND BEGAN TO SWITCH GEARS INVOLUNTARILY. THE CONTACT STOPPED THE VEHICLE AND OPENED THE HOOD LATCH. AAA WAS CONTACTED AND TOWED THE VEHICLE TO THE CONTACT'S RESIDENCE. AAA DIAGNOSED THAT THE MOTOR MOUNT MAY HAVE FRACTURED WITHIN THE VEHICLE. JIM ELLIS MAZDA ATLANTA (5855 PEACHTREE BLVD, ATLANTA, GEORGIA 30341, (888) 814-7086) WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE AND REQUESTED THAT THE VEHICLE BE BROUGHT IN FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE RECALL. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS APPROXIMATELY 280,000.

AFTER TURNING ON THE CAR AND SHIFTING IT INTO DRIVE, THE CAR ACCELERATED AT ABOUT 20 MPH WITHOUT A FOOT ON THE GAS.

I WAS DRIVING AND FELT THE CAR DOWN SHIFT ON THE HIGHWAY, AT LIGHT CAME ON AND SOME SORT OF TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT CAME ON. RPM WOULD GO CRAZY SOMETIMES WHILE THIS HAPPENED. WHEN I GOT HOME AND PUT IT ON PARK IT SHIFTED REALLY HARD TRIED TO PUT IT ON DRIVE AND SHIFTED HARD. AS WELL SO I LET IT BE. I HEARD ABOUT THIS HAPPENING TO OTHER MAZDAS AS WELL PLEASE INVESTIGATE THIS SUPPOSEDLY ITS A ISSUE WITH THE TRANSMISSION CONTROL MODULE.

SIMILAR TO COMPLAINTS I HAVE SEEN FROM OTHER OWNERS OF THIS CAR, CLUTCH UNEXPECTEDLY GAVE OUT AROUND 30,000 MILES. DRIVER WAS PROFICIENT IN MANUAL TRANSMISSION AND INCIDENTS WOULD SUGGEST A CLUTCH PROBLEM UNTIL CLUTCH FAILED AND CAR COULD NOT ACCELERATE ON HIGHWAY.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA 3. WHILE DRIVING 65 MPH, THE VEHICLE JERKED FORWARD AND AN UNKNOWN WARNING INDICATOR ILLUMINATED. AS A RESULT, THE DRIVER SUSTAINED WHIPLASH THAT REQUIRED MEDICAL ATTENTION. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC, BUT WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS MADE AWARE OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS UNKNOWN.

STEERING WHEEL, AT ANY SPEED, MOVES SLIGHTLY FROM SIDE TO SIDE CAUSING IT TO BE CROOKED. ALIGNMENTS AND BALANCING HAS NOT SOLVED THE PROBLEM. THE WHEEL IS LOOSE IN STEERING AND INCREASINGLY SCARY SINCE IT IS SLIGHTLY CROOKED AND CAN BE VERY HARD TO KEEP THE CAR FROM OVER STEERING EVEN WHEN DRIVING STRAIGHT ON A PERFECTLY PAVED ROAD. I'M AFRAID THE STEERING PUMP IS CORRODING. PLEASE INVESTIGATE AS NEWER MODELS AND MAZDA IN JAPAN HAD A MAJOR RECALL FOR THIS VERY ISSUE. PLEASE DO A US RECALL AS IT'S DEFINITELY A SAFETY ISSUE AND VERY UNPREDICTABLE ESPECIALLY ON CURVY OR BUMPY ROADS. *TR

CLUTCH NEEDS REPLACEMENT AS PER MAZDA SERVICE DEPARTMENT. CAR IS 6 YEARS OLD AND HAS 53000 APROX. I HAVE READ BLOGS ABOUT THIS BEING A COMMON PROBLEM FOR CERTAIN MAZDAS BETWEEN 2009 -2012.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA 3. WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 70 MPH, THE SERVICE TRANSMISSION INDICATOR ILLUMINATED AND THE VEHICLE SUDDENLY FAILED TO ACCELERATE WHEN THE ACCELERATOR PEDAL WAS DEPRESSED. THE VEHICLE WAS TAKEN TO THE DEALER WHERE IT WAS DIAGNOSED THAT THE TRACTION CONTROL MODULE FAILED AND NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS NOTIFIED OF THE FAILURE. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 110,000.

DROVE 80 MILES TO DESTINATION ON FREEWAY USING CRUISE CONTROL. CAR ACCELERATED ABOVE CRUISE SETTING ON DOWNHILL - DID NOT ENGINE BRAKE TO HOLD SPEED. WHEN PULLING INTO DESTINATION HOTEL PARKING SPOT AND WITH RIGHT FOOT ON BRAKE, ENGINE REVVED DRAMATICALLY. APPLIED BOTH FEET TO BREAK. AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION. CHANGED GEARS TO N, R & P, BUT ENGINE CONTINUED TO REV. TURNED ENGINE OFF. SMOKE GENERATED FROM ENGINE ENTERED CABIN. DID NOT USE CAR UNTIL NEXT DAY. RETURNING HOME NEXT DAY USED CRUISE CONTROL AND EXITED FREEWAY FOR BREAK. SLOWING DOWN FOR STOP LIGHT WITH CAR AHEAD AND FOOT ON BRAKE WHEN ENGINE REVVED AGAIN AS BEFORE. SHIFTED CAR INTO NEUTRAL AND TURNED OFF CAR THEN BACK ON. DROVE CAR TO DEALER ON WAY HOME WITHOUT ANOTHER INCIDENT. THIS DEALER IS WHERE WE PURCHASED THE CARE AND ALL WORK EXCEPT TIRES/ALIGNMENT AND BATTERY OCCURRED. THEY EXAMINED AND INSPECTED THE CAR AND...

THE VEHICLE BROKE THE CLUTCH. *TR

I WAS DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD ALL THE SUDDEN MY CAR STOPPED AND WOULD NOT ENGAGE. APPARENTLY MY CLUTCH JUST RANDOMLY WENT OUT. I HAVE TO COMPLETELY REPLACE THE ENTIRE THING $1000. MAZDA SAID ITS A NORMAL WEAR AND TEAR AT 67000 MILES WE SHOULD NOT BE DOING A COMPLETE REPLACEMENT OF THE CLUTCH. IT SHOULD NOT JUST RANDOMLY GO OUT WITHOUT ANY WARNING. *TR

CLUTCH GAVE OUT AT 33,000 MILES. THAT IS ABSURD. MAZDA CLAIMS ITS UNDER THEIR "WEAR AND TEAR" BUT THIS IS NOT A NEW PROBLEM FOR A LOT OF PEOPLE. PREMATURE CLUTCH FAILURE SHOULD HAVE BEEN A RECALL ON MAZDA 3'S BACK IN 2011. *TR

CLUTCH FAILURE WHILE DRIVING RESULTING IN DIFFICULTY STEERING AND LOSS OF CONTROL OF THE VEHICLE. AS THE CARE HAD A LOW MILEAGE AND IS NEW YOU ARE NOT EXPECTING THIS KIND OF PROBLEM. NEED TO INVESTIGATE WHY THESE CLUTCHES ARE FAILING, SPECIFICALLY IN THE 2010 MODEL. *TR

2010 MAZDA 3. CONSUMER WRITES IN REGARDS TO VEHICLE TIRES, SOFTNESS OF THE BRAKE AND RESURFACING ROTORS. *SMD THE CONSUMER STATED A VISUAL INSPECTION REVEALED THE TRANSMISSION FLUID NEEDED TO BE REPLACED, THE TIRES WERE WEARING UNEVENLY, AND THE VEHICLE PULLED TO THE LEFT. ALSO, THE BATTERY WAS REPLACED.

WAS DRIVING ON HIGHWAY AND RPM STARTED TO REV UP, COULDN'T SWITCH GEARS AND CLUTCH GAVE OUT FROM UNDERNEATH ME. LUCKILY WAS ABLE TO ROLL OFF THE HIGHWAY WHEN I NOTICED THE PROBLEM. OF COURSE ONE PROBLEM LEADS TO ANOTHER BATTERY THEN DIED AT THE SHOP, HAD TO REPLACE AS WELL, THIS COMES NOT EVEN A MONTH AFTER THE ROTORS FOR BRAKES HIT THE FAN. THIS HAS GOT TO BE ONE OF THE MOST PROBLEMATIC CARS I HAVE SEEN. A CLUTCH DYING LESS THEN 3 YEARS IS VERY STRANGE AND HAS HAPPENED TO OTHERS AS WELL WITH THIS MODEL. *TR

HAVE HAD A SITUATION OCCUR ABOUT A DOZEN TIMES SINCE I PURCHASED NEW IN JULY 2010 WITH 93 MILES - NOW AT ~35500 MILES. WHEN COMING TO A STOP ON A COLD ENGINE THAT HAS ONLY BEEN RUNNING ABOUT 2-3 MINUTES, CLUTCH PUSHED IN TO SHIFT OUT OF GEAR AND BRAKES APPLIED ENGINE WILL REV TO ~2500 RPM AND IT WILL STAY THERE FOR ABOUT 3-4 SECONDS. FIRST FEW TIMES IT HAPPENED I FIGURED I HIT THE GAS AS WELL AS THE BRAKE, AFTER THAT I BEGAN TO CHECK MY FOOT POSITION ON OCCURRENCE AND MY FOOT WAS NOWHERE NEAR THE ACCELERATOR. THIS HAS NOT CAUSED ANY PROBLEMS WITH A CAR ACCELERATING ON ITS OWN AS IT TYPICALLY OCCURS AS I AM PUSHING THE CLUTCH IN TO COME TO A STOP. ONLY HAPPENS WHEN THE ENGINE IS STILL COLD (GENERALLY THE FIRST STOP OF THE DAY) AND IS VERY RANDOM...

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2010 MAZDA MAZDA3. THE CONTACT STATED THAT WHILE DRIVING APPROXIMATELY 35 MPH, THE DRIVER NOTICED A BURNING ODOR IN THE VEHICLE. ADDITIONALLY, THE CONTACT HEARD A CLICKING SOUND WHEN DRIVING AT SLOW SPEEDS. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO THE DEALER FOR DIAGNOSTIC TESTING. THE TECHNICIAN STATED THAT THE CLUTCH NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT REPAIRED. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 30,000.

AT AROUND 24,000 MILES I EXPERIENCED A PARTIAL CLUTCH FAILURE (COULDN'T SHIFT OUT OF GEAR) THAT WENT AWAY AFTER PUMPING THE CLUTCH PETAL. I ASKED THE DEALERSHIP ABOUT THIS AND WAS TOLD NOT TO WORRY ABOUT IT, AND THAT IT WAS PROBABLY DUE TO CLUTCH FREEZING UP IN THE COLD. AT AROUND 30,000 MILES THE CAR STARTED SHAKING WHENEVER I ENGAGED/DISENGAGED THE CLUTCH. IN ORDER TO GET THE CLUTCH TO ENGAGE AT ALL I HAD TO LET OFF THE CLUTCH PETAL MUCH SLOWER THAN USUAL. I TOOK THE CAR TO THE ORIGINAL DEALERSHIP IT WAS PURCHASED AT AND WAS TOLD THE FRICTION DISC WAS WORN OUT, AND THAT THIS WAS A WEAR AND TEAR ITEM AND THEREFORE NOT UNDER WARRANTY. IN ADDITION, THEY SAID THAT THE PILOT BEARING HAD FAILED. AFTER GETTING THESE ITEMS REPLACED A LOUD CREAKING NOISE OCCURS WHENEVER ENGAGING/DISENGAGING THE CLUTCH OR ACCELERATOR PEDALS. THE ISSUE IS...

I BROUGHT MY CAR INTO AN AUTHORIZED MAZDA DEALER FOR AN OIL CHANGE AND MENTIONED THAT I NOTICED A SLIGHT SLIPPING IN THE CLUTCH. I WAS LATER INFORMED BY THE DEALER THAT EVEN THOUGH I HAD JUST 33,000 HIGHWAY MILES, THE ENTIRE CLUTCH ASSEMBLY NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. EVEN THOUGH I WAS STILL WITHIN THE WARRANTY PERIOD, THEY TOLD ME THAT IT WOULD NOT BE COVERED. I COMPLAINED TO MAZDA CUSTOMER CARE AND GOT NO WHERE. THE MOST FRUSTRATING PART IS THAT AFTER THE DEALER COMPLETED THE REPAIR, THEY TOLD ME THAT THE CLUTCH SHOWED NO SIGNS OF ABUSE AND THAT IN THEIR PROFESSIONAL OPINION, THIS WAS A PREMATURE FAILURE OF THE CLUTCH. EVEN WITH THIS INFORMATION, MAZDA ITSELF STILL WOULD NOT COVER THE REPAIR. *TR

CLUTCHES ARE SUPPOSED TO BE BULLET PROOF. BEING ONE OF THE MAIN PARTS OF THE CAR AND NECESSARY TO IT'S BASIC FUNCTION, CLUTCHES SHOULD BE INCLUDED IN THE 5 YEAR/60,000 MILES WARRANTY. BUT THEY'RE NOT. THE CLUTCH ON THE 2010 MAZDA3 IS ONLY COVERED FOR 7500 MILES. THAT'S SUSPICIOUS IN AND OF ITSELF. SO HERE'S MY STORY, MY CLUTCH GAVE OUT AFTER 50,000 MILES. NO WARNING OR ANYTHING. THE MECHANIC I TOOK IT TO SAID IN THE 32 YEARS HE'S BEEN FIXING CLUTCHES, HE'S NEVER SEEN ANYTHING SO HORRIFIC. HE HAD TO HAVE METAL FABRICATORS COME IN AND MAKE PARTS BECAUSE SOME OF THE SURROUNDING EQUIPMENT WAS SO WARPED. MAZDA CLAIMS NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR THEIR FAULTY PRODUCT. I'VE READ STORIES ONLINE WHERE PEOPLE REPORT THEIR CLUTCH BLOWING OUT AT 14,000 MILES. EDMUNDS.COM, A LEADER IN CAR RESOURCES RATES THE CLUTCH PROBLEM ON THIS SPECIFIC CAR AT A 9.7/10. IT'S A...

THE CLUTCH ON MY MANUAL TRANSMISSION 2010 MAZDA3 SUDDENLY STOPPED OPERATING PROPERLY. IT GRINDS GEARS AND DOES NOT CHANGE GEARS WHEN I SHIFT. I DROVE THE VEHICLE IN TO A MAZDA DEALER ON SATURDAY, WITH A WEEK LEFT ON MY WARRANTY. ON MONDAY, THEY CALLED TO TELL ME THAT THEIR TECHNICIAN COULD NOT EVEN DRIVE MY CAR AS THERE WAS NO CLUTCH PAD! I WONDERED HOW I COULD DRIVE THE CAR TO THEM, BUT ONCE IT WAS IN THEIR POSSESSION, IT WAS SUDDENLY UNDRIVEABLE. I AM NOW BEING FORCED TO PAY $1100 TO REPLACE THE CLUTCH, BECAUSE THEY SAY MY WARRANTY DOES NOT COVER NORMAL WEAR AND TEAR. I ASKED HOW A COMPLETELY DISINTEGRATED CLUTCH PAD IS "NORMAL WEAR AND TEAR" ON A VEHICLE WHICH HAS ONLY BEEN DRIVEN 16K MILES! THIS COULD HAVE BEEN DANGEROUS HAD IT FAILED COMPLETELY WHILE DRIVING! I FILED A CLAIM WITH THE BETTER BUSINESS...

MANY TIMES BUT SPORADICALLY OVER THE LAST TWO YEARS MY MAZDA 3, WHEN COMING TO A STOP AND FOOT FIRMLY ON THE BRAKE WILL HAVE A SUDDEN SURGE IN RPM BETWEEN 1200-2500 RPM AND TRY TO ACCELERATE. SEEMS TO HAPPEN MOST OFTEN FIRST THING IN THE MORNING MORE OFTEN. BECAUSE I AM CONSTANTLY READY THERE HAS BEEN NO CRASH, THOUGH THE TIME RPMS REACHED 2500 I HAD DIFFICULTY STOPPING THE CAR, ON A FREEWAY ON RAMP WHERE SUDDEN DECELERATION WAS NEEDED. I HAVE FOUND THAT ONE PUMP OF THE BREAK ALLEVIATES THE PROBLEM IF THERE IS ROOM TO DO SO. *TR

I HAVE HAD MY 2010 MAZDA 3S SINCE JUNE OF 2010 WHEN I BOUGHT IT NEW. I DRIVE TO AND FROM WORK EVERY DAY. I HAVE 26,000 MILES ON IT, 75% OF WHICH ARE HIGHWAY MILES. I WAS DRIVING TO WORK LAST WEEK, AND NOTICED SOMETHING WITH THE CAR FELT OFF. EVERY DAY OF THE WEEK IT GOT WORSE AND WORSE, SO I FINALLY BROUGHT IT TO MY MECHANIC WHO TOLD ME, AS I SUSPECTED, THAT THE CLUTCH WAS SLIPPING AND NEARING THE END OF ITS LIFE. I HAVE YET TO REPLACE THE BRAKE PADS ON THIS CAR, AND TO GET TOLD THAT THE CLUTCH IS GONE BEFORE I EVEN REPLACE NORMAL MAINTENANCE ITEMS IS JUST FLAT OUT UNACCEPTABLE. I HAVE HAD TWO PREVIOUS CARS WITH MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS, AND NEVER REPLACED A CLUTCH, EVEN WHEN THEY HAD CLOSE TO 100,000 MILES ON THEM. MY MECHANIC SUGGESTED BEFORE I DO ANYTHING,...

AT LESS THAN 24,000 MILES, MY CLUTCH HAS BEGUN TO SLIP TERRIBLY AND CREATES A TERRIBLE BURNING SMELL. I KNOW THERE ARE HUNDREDS OF OTHER MAZDA OWNERS WHO HAVE ALSO HAD TO REPLACE THEIR CLUTCHES BEFORE THEY'VE HAD TO REPLACE BRAKE PADS. THIS IS A DRAIN ON CONSUMERS, AND A SAFETY ISSUE TO BOOT. *TR

I PURCHASED A 2010 MAZDA 3 AS A DEMO ON JULY 30, 2011 WITH 4100 MILES ON IT. I NOW HAVE 8500 MILES ON IT AND THE CLUTCH HAS FAILED. AFTER TAKING IT TO THE LOCAL MAZDA DEALERSHIP, I WAS TOLD IT WAS A NORMAL WEAR PRODUCE AND IT HAD BEEN ABUSED SO I HAD TO PAY FOR THE REPAIR. WHEN I BOUGHT THE CAR IT HAD A HIGH RELEASE IN THE CLUTCH PEDAL BUT I FIGURED IT WAS NORMAL FOR THE CAR. SINCE EARLY NOVEMBER, THE "INTAKE MANIFOLD RUNNER" HAS BEEN EXTREMELY SENSITIVE TO THE POINT THAT I CANNOT MAINTAIN SPEED UP A SLIGHT INCLINE WITHOUT THE ENGINE REVVING UP. I WAS TOLD WHEN I TOOK THE CAR TO THE DEALERSHIP THIS WAS DUE TO A CLUTCH FAILURE. I DON'T BELIEVE IT IS ACCEPTABLE FOR A CLUTCH TO GO OUT AFTER JUST 8500 MILES OF DRIVING. MY PREVIOUS VEHICLE...

CLUTCH MALFUNCTION SAYS IT'S NOT DEFECTIVE WHICH IS IT BECAUSE THE CAR ONLY HAS 19,000 MILES. *TR

AT 5000 MILES CLUTCH STARTED TO MAKE SQUEAKING SOUND AND VIBRATION WHEN ENGAGING. *TR