2008 FORD ESCAPE Unknown Or Other Problems

The gear shift bushing failed . I was lucky . Drive into driveway on a hill. Went to shift to park and the lever started to act like it wasn’t connected and started rolling backwards. While shifting it was in the neutral position. I quickly braked and turned car off . Had to use emergency brake. The dealership said it was recalled but this VIN wasn’t included . I ordered new cable but was told it was easier to replace bushing.

My car was scheduled for the mechanic for ABS brake issues on April 8, 2024. On April 1, 2024 I was driving on the highway at 65 mph when I lost power to the gas pedal. I could have been seriously injured from other motor vehicles. There was no warning lights, no messages, nothing. I got to the side of the road at about 20 mph. I turned off the vehicle and then turned it back on when the engine light came on and the wrench light. I turned it off again and on and no lights lit up. I was towed to my mechanic and they were able to repeat the incident. The mechanic took it off the tow trailer and he said there are no warning lights when he turned the car on. I told him they went off when I turned the car back on on the...

My regen system failure light come on and off. When it does come on I lose my brakes. I have tried effortlessly like others to find out why they are malfunctioning. I am continually having near misses due to the brakes not wanting to work when they choose to. Why has this not been a recall yet. The brakes go all the way to the floor whenever they feel like it. I just purchased the vehicle. I wld have left it at the lot had I know this and no recall seems to be hand. So we get to have accidents or spend endless money while the Ford company doesn’t have to deal with any of it.

I HAVE BEEN HAVING PROBLEMS WITH THE IGNITION SWITCH FOR A FEW MONTHS . AT TIMES MY CAR WONT START. EVERYTHING COMES ON. iT FEELS VERY LOOSE AND HAVING TO PUSH IN THE KEY AND TURN IS VERY DIFFICULT AND HURTS MY HAND. PLUS THE ALARM BUTTON GETS PRESSED WHEN I TURN THE KEY.. i HAVE TO TURN KEY ON AND OFF WHILE PUSHING KEY INTO IGNITION SEVERAL TIMES AND PRAY THAT IT WILL CRANK. i HAVE HAD NO OTHER ISSUES OR REPAIRS THAT ARE NEEDED. i NOW HAVE MY CAR IN THE SHOP TO REPLACE THE IGNITION LOCK ASSEMBLY i HAVE AN ESTIMATE OF $400 FOR THIS REPAIR. i HAVE HEARD THIS IS A COMMON REPAIR FOR THIS PART ON THE VEHICLE I OWN.

I was sitting on a driveway that is at an angle. Not sitting flat…. My vehicle dies & Safety Alert Light comes on with the! In the middle of a triangle and vehicle dies will not stay started it will start and then shut off.Died in Middle of Road!!

Unknown mechanical issues

The rear passenger door will not catch to release unlock or lock latch. It's like the door is forced closed will not open.

Regen Brakes Disabled light came on dash board after starting. ABS light and Check Braking System also. Took to two local mechanics. Checked sensors brake fluid etc. Advised to take to dealership. These lights are not ALWAYS on. However lately they have been. When illuminated the brakes are very weak and if going over 40 mph very difficult to stop. Nearly impossible to drive on the interstate. Ford dealership said it’s a faulty Hydraulic Control Unit codes C1478 and C1479. They advised there is currently only 1 available in the US. It’s used and their cost is $2600. They advised rear brakes and pads being replaced as well and bleeding the brakes after. My truck has 112k miles on it. Dealership estimated repair cost was just under $4000. I rarely have to drive on the interstate but this particular day was very concerning as I could hardly stop and had...

The back liftgate glass on my 2008 ford escape separated from latch and exploded when closing.

RED BATTERY LIGHT CAME ON. ALL ACCESSORIES WENT OFF AND THE CAR WOULDN'T START AGAIN. I JUST REPLACED MY 12V BATTERY THE NIGHT BEFORE. THE CAR HAD BEEN DRIVEN 2 MILES, AT MOST. THE BRAND NEW BATTERY HAD BEEN IN THE CAR LESS THAN 24 HOURS. I HAD NO STEERING CAPABILITY AS MY STEERING WHEEL LOCKED UP. I COULDN'T SHIFT. THE BRAKE PEDAL PUSHED MY FOOT BACK LIKE IT WAS "PUMPING" MY FOOT. PUT ANOTHER FULLY CHARGED BATTERY INTO MY CAR AND STARTED RIGHT UP. DROVE HOME AND AS I WAS PULLING INTO DRIVEWAY EXACT SAME THING HAPPENED. BOTH BATTERIES WERE DRAINED COMPLETELY DRY OF ANY VOLTAGE. ABS LIGHT ON ALL THE TIME. CHECK BRAKE SYSTEM/REGEN BRAKE DISABLED ON DRIVE INFO.

TOOK VEHICLE INTO FORD DEALER FOR SERVICE ON FRONT WHEEL, YESTERDAY 1/ 27/ 2021, WHICH IS UNRELATED. SERVICEMAN TOLD ME THAT, DUE TO EXCESSIVE RUST, THE UNDERFRAME HAS UP TO SIX CRACKS IN IT AND THAT THE VEHICLE IS UNSAFE TO DRIVE. THE VEHICLE IS THIRTEEN YEARS OLD. HE STATED THAT THERE IS NO REPAIR FOR THIS EXCEPT TO REPLACE THE WHOLE UNIBODY UNDERFRAME, WHICH FORD TAKES NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR. I HAD TO REPLACE THE TWO REAR SHOCK TOWER HOUSINGS BECAUSE ONE POPPED THROUGH THE FLOOR ON SEPT., 2020. THE OUTER BODY HAS SOME RUST BUT LOOKS GOOD, NORMAL RUST FOR IT'S AGE. ON THE INTERNET I RESEARCHED THE PROBLEM AND IT SHOWS THAT THE 2001 TO 2003 ESCAPES HAVE HAD A POSSIBLE RECALL AND SHOWS THAT ONE FORD DEALER HAD A 'FIX' FOR THE ENGINE CRADLE, THAT DID NOT WORK OUT WELL. THERE ARE NUMEROUS COMPLAINS ONLINE ABOUT UNDERCARRIAGE...

DRIVING FOR THE 1ST COUPLE OF MILES WAS FINE. PROBLEM HAPPENED AFTER STOPPING THE CAR 1ST TIME AT FRIENDS HOUSE THEN 2ND TIME AFTER GAS STATION STOP. AFTER CAR WAS RE~ENTERED ONTO THE ROAD IT WOULD NOT GO OVER 15 MPH AND FELT LIKE THE BRAKES WERE ON. THIS WAS AFTER THE 2ND TRIP TO THE MECHANIC ABOUT THIS PROBLEM. THE MECHANIC COULDN'T FIGURE OUT THE PROBLEM AND STARTED RESEARCHING . AFTER TALKING TO FRIENDS AT PARTS STORE HE WAS TOLD THERE IS A CLASS ACTION LAW SUIT ON THIS VEHICLE FOR THIS PROBLEM. I HAVE ONLY HAD VEHICLE FOR 5 MONTHS SO I AM HAVING A HARD TIME FINDING ANY WAY TO PARTICIPATE IN THIS. IT IS POSSIBLE PREVIOUS OWNER WAS ATTEMPTED TO CONTACT BUT HAS MOVED SEVERAL TIMES SINCE ORIGINAL PURCHASE. CAN YOU HELP ME WITH THIS, OR WILL FORD CONTACT ME SINCE TITLE IS NOW IN MY...

SUDDENLY THE BRAKE SYSTEM FAILS CAUSING THE BRAKE PEDAL TO GO ALL THE WAY TO FLOOR MAKING IT DIFFICULT TO STOP PROPERLY.

MY CAR HAS DISPLAYED THE ISSUES THIS MODEL WAS RECALLED FOR NUMEROUS TIMES AND NOW WILL NOT START AGAIN. IT STOPPED DRIVING UNEXPECTEDLY ON SEVERAL OCCASIONS WHEN I HAVE BEEN DRIVING ON BOTH FREEWAYS AND RESIDENTIAL STREETS. WHEN IT HAPPENS IT BECOMES IMPOSSIBLE TO STEER, GAS AND BRAKE HAVE NO EFFECT, AND FLASHES A MESAGE THAT SAYS TO STOP SAFELY NOW (EVEN THOUGH YOU HAVE NO CONTROL OVER IT ANYWAY). IT SOUNDS EXACTLY LIKE WHAT HAPPENS IN THE ONE OF THE HANDFUL OF RECALLS I'VE READ ABOUT FOR THIS CAR, YET MY VIN NUMBER SAYS THERE ARE NONE ASSOCIATED WITH IT AND I THINK THAT NEEDS TO BE REEXAMINED.

VALVE COVER GASKET LEAKS, SUSPENSION CONTROL ARM BOTH SIDES CRACKING, AC CONDENSER LEAKING

RANDOMLY THE CAR WILL 'STALL' TO TO SPEAK EVEN THOUGH IT IS AN AUTOMATIC AND NOT A 5-SPEED. WHEN I SAY STALL I AM REFERRING TO WHEN I AM STOPPED AT A STOP SIGN, RED LIGHT, YIELDING TO TURN, ETC - WHEN I GO TO HIT THE GAS THE RPM'S REV UP HIGH AND THE CAR SPEED IS VERY LOW AND AT A ROLLING SPEED - EVEN THOUGH I PUSH DOWN ALL OF THE WAY IN ORDER TO GET THE CAR TO SPEED UP TO AVOID BEING STRUCK MY OTHER VEHICLES WHEN TURNING. THE CAR WILL THEN REGAIN ALL SPEED AT ONCE - INSTEAD OF GRADUALLY. THIS HAS HAPPENED NUMEROUS TIMES WHILE I AM TRYING TO MERGE ONTO AN ONCOMING INTERSTATE RAMP OR AM AT A RED LIGHT OR STOP SIGN. I HAVE MISSED BEING HIT THUS FAR BUT HAVE HAD A FEW CLOSE CALLS. I HAVE A CHECK ENGINE...

WHILE DRIVING IT WAS HARD TO PUSH ON BRAKES AND WHEN I TOOK MY FOOT OFF OF THE GAS IT VEHICLE WOULD STOP. SO I TOOK IT TO MECHANIC AND HE SAID MY BRAKES WENT W CALIBER OR WHEEL BEARING. A FEW WEEKS LATER SAME THING HAPPEN ALL NEEDED REPLACED NOW AGAIN ITS HAPPENED. THIS IS TO MUCH SOMETHING HAS TO BE WRONG. IT WOULD PULL BACK AND BURN THE BRAKES UP. I MEAN IT WAS HARD TO GET IT TWO 25 MILES PER HOUR. THIS IS THE 3RD TIME. THIS HAPPENED WHILE I WAS DRIVING EACH TIME. THE VEHICLE FELT LIKE IT WAS PULLING BACK, HARD TO GO FORWARD THEN HARD TO PUSH ON BRAKES THEN THE BRAKES STATED SMOKING.

WHILE DRIVING FROM MIDLAND TEXAS TO EL PASO TEXAS ON THE WAY BACK MY CAR STARTED TO SLOW DOWN, ON THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER IT STATED SAFELY STOP THIS WILL BE THE 2ND TIME THIS HAS HAPPENED TO ME I WAS INFORMED THAT IT CAN BE THE MEC PUMP BUT WHEN CALLING FORD AND PUTTING IT IN MY VIN NUMBER IT DOESN'T SHOW THAT MY VEHICLE IS ONE OF THE ONES THAT PARTICULAR HAS A RECALL ON, IT IS ALSO HAVING STEERING ISSUES PARTS HAVE BEEN REPLACED, YET STILL THE STEERING WHEEL SEEMS LOOSE

TAKATA RECALL.. MY 2008 FORD ESCAPE WHEN IT SHIFTS TO 4TH GEAR IT GOES DOWN THEN SHAKES AND GOES UP A GEAR

WE HAVE BEEN HAVING ELECTRICAL SURGES IN OUR 2008 FORD ESCAPE XLS. THE SURGES ARE BECOMING MORE FREQUENT. THEY WILL HAPPEN WHEN WE ARE AT A STOP LIGHT, GETTING READY TO GO; AFTER HAVING MY FOOT ON THE GAS FOR A SECOND (OR LESS) A POWER SURGE WILL HAPPEN IN THE CAR (ABS LIGHT POPS ON AND 2 OTHERS). IT ALSO HAPPENS WHEN WE ARE DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY GOING 60 OR 70 MPH AND ALL OF A SUDDEN A POWER SURGE HAPPENS. I DO NOT HAVE A CURRENT VIDEO OF THIS HAPPENING, BUT I WILL BE SURE TO GET ONE WITHIN THE NEXT DAY OR SO TO BE SURE I HAVE THIS PROOF ON FILE FOR YOU, IF NEEDED. PLEASE HELP US WITH THIS ISSUE. THIS HAS BEEN ONGOING SINCE WINTER. WE ORIGINALLY THOUGHT THE ENGINE JUST NEEDED TO WARM UP BECAUSE OF HOW COLD WINTER GOT BUT IT...

TRANSMISSION. THIS IS THE 3RD TIME THAT I HAVE HAD TO REPLACE MY TRANSMISSION. I WAS DRIVING FROM WORK AND ALL OF A SUDDEN, I WAS NO LONGER ABLE TO ACCELERATE. I HAVE NOT BEEN ABLE TO DRIVE MY VEHICLE SINCE.

THE BREAKS CONTINUE TO FAIL. HAS ALL NEW PADS, ROTORS AND THE MASTER CYLENDER REPLACED. WHEN COMING TO A STOP THE BREAKS VIBRATE AND THEN NEED TO PUSH THE PETAL TO THE FLOOR TO BE ABLE TO SLOWLY SLOW DOWN. I THEN NEED TO PUMP VISIOUSLY UP TO 5 TIMES TO GET THE BREAKS TO TEMPORARILY WORK AGAIN. WAS THEN TOLD BY MY MECHANIC THE ABS IS THE ISSUE. I HAVE RESEARCHED THIS ISSUE WITH THE YR OF MY VEHICLE TO FIND THAT THIS IS A SERIOUS ISSUE WITH MANY 08 FORD ESCAPES AND HAVE YET TO FIND A RECAL FOR THIS DEADY MALFUNCTION. MY CAR ONLY HAS 135000 MILES AND THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE THAT FORD NEEDS TO FIX WITH A RECALL ASAP.

MY FRONT AXEL BROKE WHILE DRIVING ONE NIGHT WITHOUT ANY EARLY SIGNS OF ISSUES.

THE IGNITION WENT OUT AND OTHERS I KNOW WITH THE SAME CAR HAD THE SAME PROBLEM

I HAVE A 2008 FORD ESCAPE TRANSMISSION IS GOING OUT THERE WAS A RECALL BUT WITH WARRANTY MY WARRANTY HAS EXPIRED FORD MOTOR COMPANY WILL NOT HELP ME OUT AT ALL THIS RECALL NEEDS TO BE REOPENED

POWER STEERING WENT OUT AFTER HAVING TRUCK FOR ONLY 6 MONTHS. I HAVE TO GET SUSPENSION PROBLEMS FIXED EVERY OTHER MONTH. AND THE MUFFLER EVERY OTHER MONTH.

THE REAR INNER FENDER RUSTED OUT AND THE REAR STRUT BROKE THROUGH ITS MOUNTING BRACKET WHILE I WAS DRIVING ON A STATE HIGHWAY AND THE VEHICLE IS NOW UNSTABLE AND DANGEROUS TO DRIVE. THANKFULLY I WAS ABLE TO KEEP RELATIVE CONTROL OF THE VEHICLE AND MAKE IT HOME SAFELY. UPON DOING A SIMPLE GOOGLE SEARCH, THIS IS A KNOWN ISSUE WITH VEHICLES SOLD IN THE BOTHER UNITED STATES AND CANADA AS STATED ON NUMEROUS WEBSITES AND FORUMS. UNFORTUNATELY THIS IS MY PRIMARY MODE OF TRANSPORTATION AND I TRAVEL 120-125 MILES PER DAY ROUND TRIP TO WORK. THIS COULD HAVE BEEN MUCH WORSE HAD I NOT HEARD THE NOISE AND BRACES MYSELF PRIOR TO THE VEHICLE BECOMING UNSTABLE. MY BIGGEST FEAR IS THAT A FAMILY COULD BE RIDING IN A THIS TYPE OF VEHICLE AND NOT HAVE ADEQUATE REACTION AND BECOME A VEHICLE CASUALTY STATISTIC.

THE KEY IN THE IGNITION WILL NOT START THE CAR. I SEE ON THE INTERNET THAT THIS IS A KNOWN MANUFACTURER PROBLEM. WHY ISN'T IT A RECALL? IT IS NOT JUST WITH THE 2008. PEOPLE ARE DOING ALL SORTS OF WORK AROUND BECAUSE THE REPAIR COST IS THE ENTIRE STEERING COLUMN.

I WAS DRIVING THE CAR ON A TOWN ROAD AND WAS STOPPED AT A LIGHT. WHEN I WAS MAKING A LEFT TURN THE CAR LOST POWER. ON THE DASHBOARD CAME A MESSAGE "STOP SAFELY NOW" AND AN RED ALERT TRIANGLE CAME ON AS WELL. I HAD TO LET THE CAR ROLL OFF THE SIDE OF THE ROAD. I TURNED OFF THE CAR, WAITED A FEW MINUTES AND THEN TURNED THE CAR BACK ON. THE CAR TURNED ON OKAY, BUT SOON AFTER A YELLOW ICON OF AN ENGINE CAME UP ON THE DASH BOARD. THIS EVENT HAPPENED WHEN I WAS LITERALLY DRIVING THE CAR HOME FROM A CHECK UP AT THE FORD DEALERSHIP. IT'S DANGEROUS TO HAVE THE CAR'S POWER DIE ON THE MIDDLE OF THE ROAD.

WE BOUGHT OUR CAR USED IN 2008/2009. WE TOOK OUR CAR INTO A DEALERSHIP WHEN IT WAS UNDER WARRANTY BECAUSE OF EXHAUST FUMES. WE OFTEN ARE SMELLING EXHAUST BUT SINCE THE DEALERSHIP DISMISSED OUR PROBLEM WE HAVE BEEN DEALING WITH IT ALL THESE YEARS AS 'NORMAL'. I RECENTLY WAS HEARING OF POLICE OFFICERS WITH FORD VEHICLES PASSING OUT OR HAVING DAMAGE BECAUSE OF THE FUMES IN THEIR FORD SUV. I TOOK MY DAUGHTER TO THE DOCTOR A FEW YEARS AGO AFTER BEING ON A TRIP IN THE VEHICLE BECAUSE SHE WAS THROWING UP ON THE WAY THERE AND BACK. THE DOCTORS GAVE HER BACK X-RAYS AND SAID THAT IT WAS JUST MOTION SICKNESS.. SHE OFTEN COMPLAINS OF BEING SICK IN THE CAR. I ALSO DON'T LIKE THE FUMES, BUT JUST DRIVE IT. NOW I REALIZE IT MAY BE A PROBLEM THAT WAS IGNORED BY FORD TO BEGIN WITH. THE MORE...

IN THE DASH AND THE STEERING WHEEL, THE COVERS FOR THE AIR BAGS HAVE BECOME SUPER STICKY. I AM WONDERING IF, BECAUSE OF WHERE THE AIR BAGS ARE, THAT SOMETHING HAS HAPPENED BEHIND THE COVERS THAT IS EFFECTING THE CONSISTENCY OF THE COVERS. I HAVE TRIED ALL KINDS OF CLEANERS, GOO BE GONE, ALCOHOL TO REMOVE OR REDUCE THE STICKYNESS BUT NOTHING HAS WORKED. I AM WORRIED THAT IF THE AIR BAGS ARE DEPLOYED THAT THEY WILL EITHER NOT WORK OR THAT SOME CHEMICAL REACTION HAS OCCURRED THAT WOULD BE WORSE THAN THEN NOT DEPLOYING.

MY 2008 FORD ESCAPE HAD IT'S REAR LIFGATE GLASS (THE REAR WINDSHIELD) MYSTERIOUSLY SHATTER. THE VEHICLE WAS PARKED IN THE DRIVEWAY AT MY MOTHERS HOUSE AND CAME OUTSIDE AFTER ABOUT AN HOUR OF BEING THERE TO SEE A SHATTERED BACK WINDSHIELD. HER HOME IS IN A VERY RURAL AREA AND IT HAPPENED AROUND MID-DAY, SO THAT ALMOST COMPLETELY RULES OUT VANDALS. I SUSPECT THAT THIS WAS A DEFECTIVE PRODUCT AS I'VE READ ABOUT OTHER SIMILAR CASES. THE WEATHER WAS CLEAR THAT DAY AND THERE AREN'T ANY NEARBY TREES. I FOUND NO EVIDENCE OF ANY OBJECT CAUSING THE DAMAGE AND I WAS VERY THOROUGH. NOW I'M ON THE HOOK FOR A $500 REPAIR AFTER CHECKING IF THERE WAS A RECALL ON THE ITEM.

WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY GOING ON VACATION THE SUNROOF JUST SPONTANEOUSLY SHATTERED. NO ACCIDENT, NO DAMAGE, NO ANYTHING HAPPENED TO THE VEHICLE. MY HUSBAND AND I, WHO OWN THE CAR WERE JUST DRIVING ALONG AND IT SOUNDED LIKE A GUN SHOT WENT OFF AND THE NEXT THING WE KNEW, WE OPENED THE COVER AND IT WAS COMPLETELY SHATTERED. WE WERE IN MOTION ON INTERSTATE I75 NORTH HEADED TOWARD CHATTANOOGA. JUST SAW THE ADD IN THE CONSUMER REPORT MAGAZINE ON 1/2/2018 FOR SUNROOF SAFETY.

I HAVE POWER STEERING PROBLEMS. I HAD SUSPENSION PROBLEMS SINCE I BOUGHT IT. THE TRUCK IGNITION WENT OUT ON 10/31/17.

I WAS DRIVING MY VEHICLE WHEN ALL OF SUDDEN MY POWER STEERING COMPLETELY WENT OUT ON ME CAUSING MY DRIVER SIDE FRONT BALL JOINT TO BUST ALONG WITH I DONT KNOW WHAT ELSE & ALMOST WRECK MY VEHICLE. GOOD THING I WAS NEAR A PARKING LOT THAT I COULD GET MY VEHICLE INTO ENOUGH TO GET MY VEHICLE OFF THE MAIN ROAD SO I WAS NOT HIT & INVOLVED IN AN ACCIDENT. I BOUGHT VEHICLE USED IN APRIL OF 2016 & DO NOT KNOW WHAT WAS DONE N WHAT WAS NOT. MY POWER STEERING WENT OUT ABT A MONTH AGO & IT HAS BEEN SITTING UNDRIVABLE SINCE THEN. A FRIEND THAT IS A MECHANIC FINALLY WAS ABLE TO TAKE A LOOK AT MY VEHICLE & AFTER JUST TAKING A LOOK AT THE VEHICLE TO SEE WHAT WAS GOING ON, HE CAME TO THE CONCLUSION WITHOUT EVEN KNOWING OF ANY RECALL...

GAS PEDAL IS STICKING INTERMITTENTLY

WHILE DRIVING DOWN THE HIGHWAY, IT SOUNDED LIKE A HUGE POP OR LIKE A GUN SHOT SOUND AND WHEN WE STOPPED, WE FOUND THAT THE SUNROOF HAD "EXPLODED". THERE WAS NOTHING THAT HIT OUR CAR. LUCKILY THE SLIDER WAS CLOSED SO THE GLASS THAT SHATTERED DID NOT FALL ALL OVER US. WE DID SOME RESEARCH AND FOUND THAT THIS HAS HAPPENED TO MANY OTHER VEHICLES TO WHERE THERE HAS BEEN NOTHING TO CAME IN CONTACT WITH THE VEHICLE. WE WERE DRIVING BACK FROM MY SON' GRADUATING COLLEGE, SO WE STILL HAD TO DRIVE WITH IT LIKE THIS ANOTHER 2 1/2 HOURS. *TR

REAR HATCH LATCH WILL NOT CLOSE WHEN OPENED. WE HAVE HAD ONE REPLACED ALREADY AND WITHIN A MONTH IT HAS BROKEN AGAIN. BELIEVE HATCH WINDOW IS LEAKING INTO WALL OF HATCH AND SHORTING THE COMPONENT THAT OPEN AND CLOSES THE HATCH. WE HAVE HAD TO DRIVE HOME WITH AN UNLATCHED HATCH. THERE ARE PLENTY OF COMPLAINTS ABOUT THIS ON THE NET. DEALERS DON'T WANT TO HEAR ABOUT IT.

THE IGNITION WILL NOT START WHEN YOU TURN THE KEY AND AFTER SEVERAL ATTEMPTS IT WILL EVENTUALLY START

WHEN I GO TO START MY ESCAPE, I HAVE TO PRESS REALLY HARD TO GET IT TO START. IN THE PAST FEW WEEKS IT TAKES 10-15 MINS OF TRYING OVER AND OVER TO GET IT TO WORK. I AM AFRAID THAT IT JUST WILL NOT WORK ONE DAY. I TAKE THE KEY OUT AND FLIP IT OVER...DOES NOT HELP. ALL THE DASH LIGHTS COME ON...IT RECOGNIZES THE KEY...JUST WILL NOT START.

MY GAS PEDAL COMPLETELY BROKE AND DROPPED DOWN WHILE DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY, AND I COULD NOT MOVE ONCE THE CAR CAME TO A STOP. I HAVE GOOGLE THIS PARTICULAR ISSUE WITH OTHER FORD ESCAPES 2008, AND MANY OTHER FOLKS HAVE THE SAME ISSUE OR ARE COMPLAINING ABOUT A STICKY OR LOOSE GAS PEDAL. THIS IS A VERY SERIOUS AND DANGEROUS ISSUE. I COULD HAVE BEEN INVOLVED IN A VERY HORRIBLE ACCIDENT, AND OTHER FOLKS ARE AT SIMILAR RISK.

MY IGNITION, SOME TIMES IT STARTS, SOME TIMES I HAVE TROUBLE STARTING IT, OTHER TIMES IT DOESN'T START AT ALL.!!

WHILE DRIVING DOWN A CITY STREET MY TRUCK BEGAN REVVING AS IF IT WERE TRYING TO CHANGE GEARS OR ACCELERATE WITHOUT MY ADDING ANY ADDITIONAL PRESSURE ON THE GAS PEDAL. AT ONE POINT I HAD TAKEN MY FOOT COMPLETELY OFF THE GAS PEDAL AND IT WAS REVVING UP. THIS OCCURRED ABOUT 3 TIMES OVER THE COURSE OF A HALF MILE APPROXIMATELY. ONCE I ENTERED MY SUBDIVISION EVERY TIME I CAME TO A STOP SIGN AND MADE A STOP MY TRUCK WOULD GET "STUCK". I WOULD PRESS THE GAS PEDAL IN AN ATTEMPT TO DRIVE FORWARD AND THE TRUCK WOULD NOT MOVE. THE VEHICLE WAS IN DRIVE AND REMAINED RUNNING AND NEVER SHUT OFF. AFTER SEVERAL ATTEMPTS TO DRIVE FORWARD TO NO AVAIL I HAD TO PLACE THE GEAR IN PARK AND MANUALLY TURN OFF MY TRUCK AND RESTART IT AND PLACE THE GEAR BACK IN DRIVE IN ORDER TO BE...

TRANSMISSION IS CONSTANTLY LEAKING.

HAVE TO PUSH THE KEY IN VERY HARD TO GET THE CAR TO START OR "JIMMY" THE KEY AROUND VERY HARD. TAKE AT LEAST FIVE MINUTES TO GET THE CAR TO START BECAUSE OF KEY. SOMETIME IT STARTS SOMETIMES IT DOESN'T. KEY NOT TURNING OVER. POSSIBLY IGNITION SWITCH NO WORKING CORRECTLY. EVERYTHING ELSE ON THE CAR HAS BEEN CHECKED OUT AND IT WORKING FINE. IT'S BEEN DIFFICULT TO GET THE IGNITION AND KEY TO WORK FOR MONTHS. NOW THEY WON'T WORK AT ALL.

WHEN I WOULD TRY TO ACCELERATE WHETHER FROM A STOPPED POSITION OR ALREADY IN MOTION MY GAS PEDAL STICKS. I'M UNABLE TO PRESS IT DOWN AND I LOSE SPEED. EACH TIME I PRESS THE GAS PEDAL OR BRAKE PEDAL I HEAR A POP. I WAS TRYING TO MERGE ONTO THE HIGHWAY AND IT SUDDENLY WOULDN'T LET ME ACCELERATE FOR A FEW MINUTES. THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS AND FRIGHTENING. IT ALSO DOES THIS IF I'M ALREADY IN MOTION OF IF I TRY TO ACCELERATE FROM A STOPPED POSITION. I FEAR FOR MY LIFE AND THE LIFE OF MY FAMILY. I TAKE MY HUSBAND TO WORK AN HOUR AWAY, THIS IS TERRIFYING AND UNACCEPTABLE. I ALSO TRANSPORT MY CHILDREN TO THEIR JOBS AND SCHOOLS. PLEASE HELP BEFORE SOMEONE GETS KILLED.

I THINK MY VEHICLE HAS SOME KIND OF ELECTRICAL SHORT. AFTER I TAKE THE KEY OUT SOMETIMES THE CAR WILL START BY ITSELF AND TODAY THE LOCKS STARTED LOCKING UNLOCKING BY THEMSELVES. I WAS IN THE VEHICLE AND IT WAS RUNNING. ALSO THE BACK WINDSHIELD MOTOR COVER FELL OFF AND NO LONGER WORKS. I CAN NO LONGER LOCK MY BACK WINDOW AND IT OPENS AND SHUTS THE WHOLE TIME I AM DRIVING. SUCH A DISAPPOINTMENT. MY LAST FORD ESCAPE I HAD 10 YEARS AND RACKED UP OVER 250,000 MILES - THAT CAR WAS A DREAM. THIS USED 2008 I BOUGHT SEEMS TO BE A LEMON : *TR

ATTEMPTED TO PULL INTO UNCOMING TRAFFIC IN A 45MPH ZONE , BUT COULD NOT GET TO MORE THAN 10MPH. THE POWER TRAIN LIGHT APPEARED AS A WRENCH BOTTOM LEFT OF STEERING WHEEL. GLIDED/STEERED CAR IMMEDIATLY TO CLOSEST PARKING LOT AND CALLED CLOSEST FORD DEALERSHIP.

THE CEILING LINER OF THE CAR IS FALLING OFF.

SERIOUS VIBRATION, LOT OF CRACKING NOISE, STEERING WHEEL LOCKING UP, HAVE TO ADJUST STEERING WHEEL TO START VEHICLE. *TR