2012 CHEVROLET IMPALA Unknown Or Other Problems

Stability traction control I have had to fix it 3 times once was ball bearing and the other was a wire harness and it has to go in shop again for stability traction issues again also the door blending parts keep failing in my car I have had 3 replaced

I put my car in reverse and the car turned off and have turn back on. When I try to start it, I don’t hear any fix or crank. Before this happened, my car was slow to change gear or it would will change so fast that my car will lose control and I did not feel safe at all.

The stability track light is on and abs. The sensor in the hubs go out even in New hubs. When I'm pulling out onto the road the traction light comes on an makes a grinding noise and the power goes down .I was told it was the stability track chain and the sensor in my right hub.

I purchased the vehicle used. Four months after I purchased it the traction control, stabilitrak and reduced engine power light came on. I took it to a certified mechanic, he said the code came back as a faulty battery. He replaced the battery and said everything should be fine. Less than 4 hours the car did the same thing. I took it back and he said it was the throttle so he cleaned it costing me a total of approximately 350.00. I didn’t have any problems for 2 months. Now it seems to be getting worse and does it almost every time I start the car. The car idles rough and shifts hard if I drive it. Also the traction control light comes on when I turn left and makes a grinding noise. Since the issue I’ve researched and found several complaints regarding the same issue.

When making left turns the car will make a loud grinding noise and will stop momentarily; it says it is due to the traction control on the dash. It is extremely unsafe when making a turn while a car is coming and there's nothing you can do. Also while making left hand turns the wheel will sometimes lock and you can't manually move the steering wheel. You have to turn off the car and wait sometimes 10+ minutes then the wheel will unlock. Now when I go to start my car it starts shaking and making a loud noise and rev low. After about 1 minute it will completely turn off and it will say service Stabilitrak and service traction control.

JUST BOUGHT CAR HAVEN'T HAD ANY RECALL MAINTENANCE CHECKED BY VIN

THE REAR IMPACT BAR ON MY 2012 IMPALA IS ROTTED OUT, NOT JUST RUSTED, ROTTED. IT OFFERS NO PROTECTION IN A REAR END COLLISION. I BOUGHT THE CAR NEW AND THE REST OF THE CAR IS STILL PRETTY CLEAN WITH VERY MINOR RUST IN THE BODY SEAMS.

THE DOOR BLEND ACTUATORS GO OUT CONSTANTLY. THE CAR HAS THREE OF THEM. WHEN THEY GO BAD, THERE IS A LOUD CLICKING OR KNOCKING SOUND BEHIND THE DASHBOARD AND THE AIR CONDITIONER AND HEATER STOP WORKING. IF IT'S COLD, IT BLOWS COLD AIR AND IF IT'S HOT IT BLOWS HOT AIR. I HAVE REPLACED AT LEAST 20 ACTUATORS. ONCE THEY GO BAD, A NEW ONE LAST ONLY A FEW MONTHS, WHICH MEANS THERE IS A DEEPER ISSUE. THE DEALER SAYS CHEVY IS AWARE OF THE PROBLEM AND IT IS A WELL KNOWN ISSUE; HOWEVER, THEY HAVE NOT ISSUED A RECALL, DEALER COULD NOT QUOTE A PRICE BECAUSE THEY WON'T KNOW WHAT IS WRONG UNTIL THEY GET IN THERE. DEALER SUSPECTS CHEVY WON'T ISSUE RECALL BECAUSE THE WHOLE SYSTEM IS FAULTY AND WILL COST THOUSANDS PER CAR TO FIX.

CAR LUNGED INTO CAR IN FRONT EVEN THOUGH MY FOOT ON BRAKE. PLACED CAR IN REVERSE AND IT KEPT GOING IN REVERSE VERY FAST UNTIL CAR BACKED UP ONTO A CURB!!! IT WAS AS IF THE ACCELERATOR GOT STUCK EVEN THOUGH FOOT WAS ON BRAKE. *TR

LOUD CLICKING NOISE COMING FROM INSIDE THE DASHBOARD. THE SOUND IS NEAR THE DRIVER SIDE PASSENGER SIDE. IT HAPPENS WHENEVER I UNLOCK THE DOORS OR DO ANYTHING WITH THE AIR CONDITIONING/HEATING CONTROLS. IT GOES ON FOR MINUTES AT A TIME WHEN I FIRST GET IN THE CAR AND HAPPENS ON AND OFF WHILE I'M DRIVING

THERE'S A TICKING SOUND INSIDE THE DASHBOARD AND IT GET LOUDER AND TICK FOR 5 TO 10 MIN WHEN THE CAR IS OFF AND STARTING UP

I WAS DRIVING ON A RESIDENTIAL ROAD AND I TOOK A TURN ONTO A DIFFERENT RESIDENTIAL ROAD AND RIGHT AFTER I STARTED TO ACCELERATE THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. RIGHT AFTER, THE SERVICE STABILITRAK AND SERVICE TRACTION CONTROL LIGHT CAME ON. THE CAR STARTED SPUTTERING AND WHEN I STARTED TO STOP THE BRAKES LOCKED ON AND OFF AS I CAME TO A STOP. IT CONTINUED TO SPUTTER EVERY TIME I ACCELERATED AND THE BRAKES CONTINUED TO LOCK EVERY TIME I HAD TO ENGAGE THEM. I COULD BARELY GET THE CAR TO DRIVE FASTER THAN 25 MPH. ONCE I GOT HOME I POPPED THE HOOD AND THE ENGINE SEEMED TO BE SHAKING.

TAKATA RECALL

TAKATA RECALL WHEN ACCELERATING FORWARD FROM A COMPLETE STOP THE TRACTION CONTROL COMES ON BY ITSELF CAUSING THE WHEELS TO LOCK UP & CAUSES HESITATION. THE GROUND IS NOT WET AT ALL WHEN THIS HAPPENS & HAS ALMOST CAUSED ME TO GET REAR ENDED. EVEN WHEN TURNING THE TRACTION CONTROL KICKS ON CAUSING THE SAME REACTION ON DRY PAVEMENT. WHEN ACCELERATING THE CAR HESITATES & JERKS/JOLTS THEN THE TRACTION LIGHT KICKS ON. THERE ARE NO CODES ON THE DASHBOARD & NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. TAKEN IT TO THE DEALERSHIP AND THEY AREN'T ABLE TO FIGURE OUT THE ISSUE. THIS IS VERY UNSAFE ESPECIALLY DRIVING ON THE HIGHWAY AND DRIVING WITH CHILDREN IN THE CAR. IT RISKING MY LIFE, MY CHILDREN'S LIVES & THE LIFES OF OTHERS.AND HAVE SPENT A LOT OF MONEY HAVING THE VEHICLE CHECKED OUT WITH NO SOLUTIONS. THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS.

WHEN I START MY CAR UP FROM A COLD START, I HERE A RATTLING NOISE, AND AFTER IT GETS WARM IT GOES AWAY. ITS BEEN DOING THAT EVER SINCE I BOUGHT THE CAR. AS THE MILES GOT ON THE CAR I THOUGHT IT MIGHT BE THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER. I HAVE 200,000 MILES PLUS

OPENING DRIVER DOOR TICKING SOUND LASTS ABOUT 1 MINUTE AND QUITS TICKING. KEY IS NOT IN IGNITION. SOUND IS COMING FROM DASHBOARD

MY CAR IS CURRENTLY IN SOUTH KOREA WITH ME, BECAUSE I'M STATIONED HERE FOR MILITARY PURPOSES. I'M MOVING BACK TO THE STATES AND MY CAR IS SUPPOSED TO SHIP OFF AUGUST 29TH BUT MY CAR CANNOT SHIP WITH A RECALL STATUS THAT READS INCOMPLETE STATUS WITH THE VPC CENTER. NO DEALERSHIP IN KOREA CAN HELP ME WITH THIS ISSUE. MY RECALL ISSUE STATES IF THE KEY RING IS CARRYING ADDED WEIGHT AND THE VEHICLE GOES OFF ROAD OR EXPERIENCES SOME OTHER JARRING EVENT, IT MAY UNINTENTIONALLY MOVE THE KEY AWAY FROM THE "RUN" POSITION. AFTER CALLING THE CHEVROLET DEALERSHIP, I WAS TOLD A CASE WOULD BE OPENED IN MY SITUATION TO ATTEMPT TO CLOSE OUT THE RECALL DUE TO ME HAVING HE VEHICLE THREE YEARS WITH NO ISSUES RELATED TO THIS. IT HAS BEEN A WEEK AND I WAS TOLD THAT I WOULD BE CONTACTED IN TWO DAYS WITH AN...

WHEN I PURCHASED THIS VEHICLE I HAD A 42 MONTH WARRANTY. SEVERAL MONTHS AFTER MY PURCHASE I NOTICED THAT THE TIRES (ALL 4) WERE DRY ROTTING. SEVERAL MONTHS AFTER THAT THE PASSENGER SIDE HEAD LIGHT WAS FOGGING TO THE POINT IT WAS DIMMING THE HEAD LIGHT. I TOOK THE VEHICLE BACK TO WHERE I PURCHASED THIS AND THE NAME OF THE CHEVROLET DEALER WAS TOM BANNEN AND NOW SERRA CHEVROLET. I COMPLAINED TO GENERAL MOTORS IN MICHIGAN AND THEY TOLD ME TO TAKE THIS BACK TO THE DEALERSHIP. THE CAR WAS TO BE SEEN BY THE SERVICE MANAGER WHICH I DID AND WAS TURNED DOWN AGAIN FOR REPAIRS EVEN WHILE THE CAR WAS STILL UNDER WARRANTY. I THEN FILED A COMPLAINT WITH BBB AND AFTER SEVERAL ATTEMPTS TO RESOLVE THESE ISSUES THE JERK AT SERRA CHEVROLET SAID THAT SERRA CHEVROLET WOULD NOT HONOR ANY WARRANTY THAT WAS GIVEN TO ME...

WHEN A WINDOW IS ROLLED DOWN IN THE VEHICLE THERE IS A HORRIBLE VIBRATION INSIDE OF THE CAR THAT ACTUALLY CAUSES A HEADACHE. EVEN IF WE ROLL DOWN TWO IT DOESN'T HELP.

I TOOK MY VEHICLE IN FOR SERVICE TO A RECALL FOR THE IGNITION, WHILE THERE THEY DISCOVERED OIL LEAKING FROM OIL PAN GASKET, THEY FOUND PROBLEMS WITH THE EMISSION. I TOOK IT HOME AND WHEN I STARTED IT IT WAS ACCELERATED, I TOOK IT BACK AND DEALER CLAIMED IT WAS NOT PART OF THE WORK THEY DID. THEY CHARGED ME 428.00 TO REPAIR. THE NEXT DAY I DROVE THE CAR THE IDLE WAS AT 3 WHEN I STARTED IT, TOOK IT BACK TO THE DEALER, THEY CLAIM THEY RESET THE IDLE, BUT THE IDLE REMAINS AT 1.5 WHEN IM DRIVING, AND FEELS ACCELERATED. THIS ALL BEGAN WHEN THEY REPAIRED A PROBLEM UNDER GUARANTEE. CAR HAS 103,000.00 MILES.

HAVE HAD 5 GOODYEAR EAGLE LS TIRES THAT HAVE BROKEN BELTS IN THEM. WHEN I GOT THE CAR IT HAD EAGLE LS'S ON IT. THEY ALL HAD THE SAME PROBLEM AND WERE REPLACED UNFORTUNATELY WITH THE SAME BRAND OF TIRE. NOW 1 OF THE NEW EAGLE LS HAS A BROKEN BELT IN IT AND IT FEELS LIKE I HAVE A BENT RIM. MY TIRE PLACE NOW IS TELLING ME THAT THE EAGLE LIS IS JUNK AND DOES NOT RECOMMEND THEM AGAIN. I WILL HAVE TO REPLACE ALL THE TIRES AGAIN BECAUSE OF THE FLAW IN THEM. SOMETHING SHOULD BE DONE ABOUT THIS BEFORE SOMEONE GETS HURT OF KILLED WITH THE JUNK TIRES. GOODYEAR OFFERED NO REPLACEMENT DISCOUNTS OR HELP WITH THIS PROBLEM PER THE TIRE SHOP.

THE AIR CONDITIONING SYSTEM STOPPED PROVIDING COLD, DRY AIR FOR A PERIOD OF ABOUT 15 MINUTES. THEN, THE COLD, DRY AIR RETURNED. THE AIRFLOW THROUGH THE VENTS NEVER DECREASED, ONLY THE TEMPERATURE AND HUMIDITY IN THE CABIN CHANGED. THIS HAS OCCURRED INTERMITTENTLY THROUGHOUT THE SUMMER OF 2014, APPROXIMATELY 20 TIMES.