NHTSA Complaint #11057456 — 2012 DODGE DURANGO

MY VEHICLE BEGAN HAVING THIS ISSUE IN 2015. MY VEHICLE HAS A LONG CRANK AND SOMETIMES DOES NOT TURN OVER. IT WILL ALSO TURN OVER, THEN SPUTTER OUT AFTER RUNNING FOR 20-30 SECONDS. IN 2015, I BEGAN TO HAVE THE ISSUE WITH THE VEHICLE NOT TURNING ON/NOT TURNING OVER. I HAD THE VEHICLE TOWED DEALER AND THE TIPM MODULE WAS REPLACED. THE VEHICLE INTERMITTENTLY HAD THE ISSUE TURNING OVER, BUT WHEN I TOOK IT TO THE DEALERSHIP, I WAS TOLD THAT THE ISSUE COULD NOT BE REPLICATED. IN 2016, MY VEHICLE SHUT OFF ON ME WHILE I WAS DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY. THE HAZARD LIGHTS WOULD NOT WORK, THE VEHICLE WOULD NOT TURN ON, AND THE GEARS WOULD NOT CHANGE TO FACILITATE A TOW. UPON OPENING THE HOOD OF THE VEHICLE, IT APPEARED AS THOUGH THERE WAS A MALFUNCTION WITH THE ALTERNATOR AND FUSES (OF WHICH I HAVE VIDEO). I HAD MY VEHICLE TOWED TO THE DEALER AND WAS CALLED BY A SERVICE ADVISOR THE NEXT DAY. I WAS TOLD THAT MY WIN MODULE HAD TO BE REPLACED, WHICH I PAID FOR. IN ADDITION, MY BATTERY HAD DIED, AND I PAID TO REPLACE THAT. I TOLD THE DEALERSHIP I HAD VIDEO OF THE ALTERNATOR AND FUSES MALFUNCTIONING AND THEY STATED THEY DID NOT NEED THE VIDEO AS THE COMPUTER DIAGNOSIS POINTED TO AN ISSUE WITH THE WIN MODULE. SEVERAL MONTHS LATER, I BEGAN TO HAVE THE ISSUE WITH THE VEHICLE NOT TURNING OVER. I REQUESTED A TOW AND THE TOW TRUCK DRIVER SUGGESTED I USE THE ACTUAL KEY INSTEAD OF THE PUSH BUTTON IGNITION, WHICH I HAVE BEEN DOING. I TOOK THE VEHICLE IN AGAIN IN OCTOBER, AS THE VEHICLE AGAIN BEGAN TO HAVE THE LONG CRANK ISSUE AND WOULD INTERMITTENTLY NOT START. I WAS TOLD THERE WAS A RECALL ON MY ALTERNATOR, BUT A REPLACEMENT WAS NOT AVAILABLE. THE DEALERSHIP REPLACED MY ALTERNATOR, BUT INFORMED ME THAT IT STILL WOULD NOT BE THE IMPROVED/RECALL PART. I HAVE TAKEN THE VEHICLE BACK IN THREE (3) MORE TIMES FOR THE SAME ISSUE AND EVERY TIME, I AM TOLD THAT THE VEHICLE REQUIRED A SOFTWARE UPDATE.