1997 JEEP WRANGLER Unknown Or Other Problems

I HAVE TAKEN CARE OF THIS JEEP COVERING EVERY SPECK OF RUST AS SOON AS I SEEN IT AND TODAY WHILE CLEANING THE UNDERSIDE OF THE JEEP I FOUND A RUST HOLE IN THE FRAME. FROM THE OUTSIDE IT LOOKS BRAND NEW. AFTER EXAMINATION I FOUND THE ENTIRE FRAME HAS RUSTED OUT FORM THE INSIDE OUT AND WAS FULL OF CHUNKS OF METAL. I BELIEVE THIS TO BE A MASSIVE SAFETY HAZARD THAT JEEP DESIGNED A FRAME THAT HOLDS WATER AND SALT AND WILL RUST OUT WITHOUT THE OWNER EVEN KNOWING HOW DANGEROUS IT IS TO DRIVE THE VEHICLE.

MY FRAME IS ROTTING FROM THE INSIDE OUT. THE REAR TRAILING ARM MOUNTS ARE WELDED TO THE FRAME AND THE FRAME ROTTED THROUGH FROM THE INSIDE OUT. THE VEHICLE WILL NOT PASS THE REQUIRED SAFTEY INSPECTION. I STARTED LOOKING FOR A WAY TO REPAIR/REPLACE THE FRAME AND FOUND THAT THIS IS A COMMON PROBLEM. THE COST OF REPAIR WILL EXCEED THE VALUE OF THE VEHICLE. THE DATE I HAVE ENTERED IS THE DATE THE PROBLEM WAS FOUND.

THE FRAME IS RUSTING AROUND THE REAR CONTROL ARM MOUNTS , I HAVE SEEN OTHERS RUST IN THE SAME PLACE IN PERSON AND ON THE INTERNET. THERE ARE EVEN COMPANIES THAT MAKE REPAIRS FOR THIS PROBLEM LIKE SAFE-T-CAP. THE RUST ON MINE IS BAD ENOUGH THAT IT WILL NOT PASS STATE INSPECTION WITHOUT BEING REPAIRED.

WHEN COLD, JEEP STARTS AND RUNS FINE. AFTER ENGINE WARMS UP, OIL PRESSURE WOULD DROP AND JEEP WOULD ALMOST DIE. IF I SHUT IT OFF AND TRY TO RESTART WHILE STILL WARM, JEEP WOULD HAVE A HARD TIME STARTING AND IF IT DID START, IT WOULD IDLE EXTREMELY ROUGH AND BARELY ACCELERATE. ONCE I GOT SPEED UP, IT RAN FINE UNTIL I STOPPED AT A RED LIGHT AND IT WOULD ACT LIKE IT WAS GOING TO DIE AND THE OIL PRESSURE GAUGE WOULD BOTTOM OUT. DEALER PUT MANUAL GAUGES ON IT AND DETERMINED IT WAS THE OIL SENDING UNIT. OIL PRESSURE NOW HOLDS AT 20 WHEN AT IDLE. THE ISSUE WITH THE ROUGH IDLE AND LOSS OF POWER STILL PERSISTS AFTER THE ENGINE WARMS UP. AFTER READING ALL OF THE COMPLAINTS, THIS SEEMS TO BE A RECURRING ISSUE WITH THIS MODEL. REALLY DON'T WANT TO WASTE MONEY TRYING TO GUESS...

NOTICED WOBBLE UNDERNEATH WHILE DRIVING. INSPECTED UNDERNEATH AND NOTICED LIGHT SHOWING BETWEEN TRANSFER CASE SKID PLATE AND FRAME (SHOULD BE TIGHT) AND BOLT HANGING DOWN. TOOK INTO SHOP AND LOWER MID FRAME ON BOTH SIDES IS COMPLETELY RUSTED THROUGH ALLOWING SKID PLATE BOLTS TO FALL OUT WITH NUTS STILL ATTACHED. SKID PLATE ALSO SERVES AS TRANSFER CASE MOUNT AND WHEN IT DROPS THE DRIVESHAFT WOBBLES. ULTIMATELY IF IT HAD COMPLETELY LET GO ON THE HIGHWAY THE REAR DRIVESHAFT WOULD HAVE LOCKED UP AND LOCKED THE REAR WHEELS CAUSING UNCONTROLLED SKID, OR THE DRIVESHAFT WOULD BREAK CAUSING DANGER TO THE PASSENGERS.

HELLO, WE HAVE A BLACK PAINT JOB. WE KNOW THIS PART IS NOT A SAFETY FEATURE , BUT BY AUG. ,SEPT. THE PAINT WILL BE PILLING OFF!!! CRACKING REALLY BAD!!! WE ARE THE ORIGINAL OWNERS. HAVE HAD OLD AMC JEEPS , NEVER ANY PROBLEMS !! RUST MAYBE BECAUSE WE HAD OUR 82 JEEP FROM THE VERY BEGINNING. THE OTHER PROBLEM WE HAVE IS THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON WHEN THE FUEL CHANGES IN PGH. PER SEASON!!! NOW THERE IS A CLUNK IN THE REAR HOUSING, WITH OUR 4-WHEEL DRIVE WE HAVE LIMITED SLIP. WE ARE THINKING OF SELLING BY OCT. ,JEEP BETTER BE WARY OF LOST SALES.

CLUTCH, FLYWHEEL ALL RELATED PARTS FAILED, WATER LEAKING ON PASSENGER SIDE FLOOR, CLOCK AND RADIO BROKE DEALER CANT FIX, SEAT BELTS WONT RETRACT, SWAY BARS COME LOOSE

ROUGH IDLE; ENGINE CHECK LIGHT ON; STALLING, BUCKING AT SPEED; NOISEY/CRACKED EXHAUST

I HAVE ONLY INCLUDED THE ONE DATE I CAN REMEMBER THAT JEEP WAS IN THE REPAIR SHOP. BUT, TO THIS DATE, AFTER JEEP WARMS UP AND THEN IS SHUT OFF FOR APPROX 20 MINUTES, IT HESITATES ON ACCELERATION. DEALER SAID COULDNT DUPLICATE PROBLEM. OIL GAUGE DROPPED TO ZERO, THEN ENGINE KNOCKED & I SHUT OFF. DEALER SAID OIL PRESSURE OK, COULD NOT DUPLICATE PROB. IT STILL DROPS BELOW 20 SOMETIMES, BUT NOT ZERO AGAIN. I HAVE HAD MANIFOLD BOLTS REPLACED TWICE AND CATALYTIC CONVERTER REPLACED ONCE. WATER LEAKS ON PASSENGER SIDE & DRIVERS SEAT BELT GETS CAUGHT IN DOOR LATCH.

CAR HAS A BUCKING AND POOR PROFORMANCE AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS UP LONG HILLS, MAKING 60MPH IMPOSSIBLE. IT HAS BEEN A POOR HIGHWAY PERFORMER, BUT HAS BECOME "ROUGH-MISSFIRING" VERY BADLY 3 TIMES IN THE CAR LIFE. FIRST 2 SERIOUS FAILURES I GOT A ENGINE CHECK LIGHT, RESULTING IN DEALER VISITS. NOW THE ENGINE CHECK LIGHT WAS "FIXED" IT IS NOT THERE, BUT THE FAILURE MODE IS. THE CAR EXHAUST PIPE END IS QUITE BLACK, DIRTY RUNNING? THE VALVES AND INTERNAL ENGINE PARTS ARE VERY DIRTY AND HAD TO BE CLEANED OR REPLACED WHEN INSPECTED THE LAST 2 TIMES. IT HAPPENED AT 5K, 12K, AND NOW AT 37K. THE CAR IS NOW ALMOST 3 YEARS OLD AND I HAVE HAD IT IN FOR OTHER REPAIRS TOTALING AT LEAST 6 TIMES. THIS IS MORE TIMES THAN MY LAST 10 YEAR VEHICLE HAD. (NOT JEEP) AM I NOW OUT OF HELP SINCE IT IS...

THE REAR DIFFERENTIAL WAS CRACKED, AS WAS THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD. ALSO THE CRANK SENSOR HARNESS AND THE TPS WERE MELTED AGAINST THE MANIFOLD. THE DASH LEAKED WATER AND THE BRAKE SHOES/LINING AND RACK AND PINION SET NEEDED REPLACING. THE DRIVERS SIDE SEATBELT WOULD NEVER RETRACT AND THE DASH LEAD WATER EXTENSIVELY CAUSING THE RESSTR-BLOWER TO GO OUT. THE RADIO WAS ALSO BROKEN FOR A COUPLE OF MONTHS

FOR GUAGE PROBLEM, ALL DASH GUAGES INTERMITTENTLY DROP TO ZERO AND AIRBAG LIGHT COMES ON. HITTING A BUMP OR TOP OF DASHBOARD FIXES PROBLEM. FOR #2, OIL PRESSURE DROPS TO ZERO WHEN IDLING IN TRAFFIC IN WARM WEATHER OR AFTER LONG PERIODS OF HIGHWAY DRIVING.

CONTACTED CHRYSLER CONCERNING MY PROBLEMS, AND THEY STATED THAT THEY CANNOT DO ANYTHING FOR ME. WHEN I CALLED ABOUT MY AIRBAGS THE FIRST TIME, I WAS TOLD I WOULD BE SENT ARBITRATION PAPERWORK AND NEVER WAS. WHEN I CALLED BACK, I WAS TOLD THAT AN INSPECTOR SHOULD HAVE GONE OUT TO LOOK AT MY CAR BEFORE IT WAS REPAIRED AND THAT IT WAS "TOO LATE NOW" TO DO ANYTHING. I WAS NEVER TOLD THAT AN INSPECTOR OR ANYONE ELSE COULD BE INVOLVED WHEN I FIRST CONTACTED CHRYSLER. I AM FURIOUS AND FRUSTRATED AND NEED HELP WITH THIS SERIOUS ISSUE. *AK

CONSUMER NEEDS INFORMATION REGARDING VEHICLE BEING IMPORTED FROM S. KOREA.

NO SUMMARY PROVIDED BY CONSUMER