2012 GMC YUKON Electrical System Problems

WHEN DRIVING IT SOMETIMES BEGINS TO HESITATE REDUCE POWER THE TRACTION AND STABILITY AND ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON. WHEN THIS HAPPENS THE RPM GAUGE AS WELL STOPS WORKING. IF I PULL OVER ON SIDE OF ROAD AND TURN OFF AND RESTART MOST TIMES THE IGNITION WILL HANG AND KEEP TRYING CRANK THE VEHICLE. IT'S HESITANT TO CRANK WHEN THIS HAPPENS AND SOMETIMES CRANKS AND THEN IMMEDIATELY DIES. IT WILL SHIFT HARD JUST BEFORE POWERING INTO A REDUCED POWER MODE. IF YOU TURN OFF RESTART TURN YOUR WHEEL ALL THE WAY LEFT AND THEN ALL THE WAY RIGHT AND CRANK IT WILL SOMETIMES MAKE THE LIGHTS GO OFF AND YOU THINK RESET BUT AS SOON AS YOU START DRIVING IT HAPPENS AGAIN. I UNDERSTAND THIS IS A PROBLEM A LOT AND I MEAN A LOT ARE HAVING SO NOT SURE WHY THIS ISN'T BEING INVESTIGATED AND RECALLED. MOST SAY NO MATTER...

WHILE WORKING ON AN AIRBAG WARNING LIGHT I ENCOUNTERED 2 DISTINCT PROBLEMS WITH MY AIRBAG AND VEHICLE SYSTEM. 1. THE MAIN UNDERHOOD FUSE PANEL ON MY VEHICLE HAS PORTION OF OXIDATION ON THE FUSES THEMSELVES. THIS OXIDATION IS CAUSING FUSES TO APPEAR INTACT BUT ARE CAUSING THE CIRCUIT TO OPEN. THIS WAS THE ROOT CAUSE OF MY AIRBAG SYSTEM TO NOT BE OPERATING PROPERLY. 2. WHILE DIAGNOSING THE AIRBAG SYSTEM, I WAS CAUTIOUS ABOUT UNPLUGGIN THE BATTERY DURING ANY TROUBLESHOOTING THAT I WAS PERFORMING. BUT, AT THE END OF THE DIAGNOSIS PERIOD AND ALL MODULES/SYSTEM WERE RECONNECTED TO ELECTRICAL MATING CONNECTORS I RECONNECTED THE BATTERY AND STARTED THE VEHICLE TO COOL THE INTERIOR. THE CENTRAL AIRBAG MODULE WHICH IS LOCATED IN CENTER CONSOLE WAS ALREADY ELECTRICALLY CONNECTED BUT NOT MOUNTED. WHEN THE MODULE WAS MOVED INTO POSITION AND THE MOUNTING POINTS OF THE MODULE TOUCHED CHASSIS GROUND OF THE VEHICLE...

I WAS LEAVING A STORE AND VEHICLE STALLED OUT AND LOST OF ALL ELECTRIC IN VEHICLE AND WAS ALMOST HIT BY ON COMING VEHICLES! WOULD GO DEAD AND START AGAIN BY ITSELF BUT AS I TRIED TO ACCELERATE IT WOULD CONTINUE TO STALL AS IF IT WAS SHUTTING DOWN! I LOST ALL CONTROL OF THE VEHICLE! ONCE I PULLED OF THE ROAD AND STOPPED VEHICLE START TO FLICKERING SO I SAT FOR A BIT AND WHEN IT STOP FLICKERING I TRIED CONTINUING HOME! CUT THE VEHICLE OFF IN PARK TRIED TO START IT BACK WITH NO RESPONSE BUT AS I SAT I TRIED IT AGAIN AND IT FINALLY STARTED BUT STILL FLICKERING!! PLEASE HELP I HAVE HEARD THIS IS A ONGOING PROBLEM FOR MANY OF THE VEHICLE OWNERS!! THIS TO ME IS A VERY SERIOUS DANGEROUS PROBLEM!!

THE MOTOR THAT OPENS AND CLOSES THE TRUNK HAS BURNED OUT TWICE ALREADY. THERE IS SOMETHING IN THE SYSTEM THAT WILL MAKE THE MOTOR GET STUCK AND BURN OUT UNTIL IT STOPS WORKING. WE HAVE TRIED REPLACING IT TWICE, AND THE SAME THING HAPPENS. OUR TRUNK WON'T CLOSE NOW AND IT REMAINS OPEN AND UNLOCKED.

POWER LIFT GATE MALFUNCTION. THE POWER LIFT GATE STRUTS FAILED WHICH CAUSED THE LIFT GATE TO OPEN ONLY 1/3 OF THE WAY BEFORE CLOSING UNEXPECTEDLY. SOMETIME IT WOULD OPEN ALL THE AWAY, THE POWER ARM WOULD THEN DISENGAGE CAUSING IT TO UNEXPECTEDLY CLOSE. SOMETIME IT WOULD CLOSE AS "DEAD WEIGHT" WITH ENOUGH FORCE TO SERIOUSLY INJURE AN ADULT AND POSSIBLE KILL A CHILD OR PET. WHEN I TOOK MY VEHICLE TO THE DEALER, I WAS TOLD THE STRUTS NEEDED TO BE REPLACED. I HAVE HAD THIS VEHICLE FOR TWO YEARS. I PURCHASED IT AS CERTIFIED USED. I WAS CHARGED $415 FOR THE REPAIR. UNFAIR AS THIS VEHICLE IS ONLY FOUR YEARS OLD! FURTHER, I AUTHORIZED THE WORK AT APPROXIMATELY 4:45PM, MY VEHICLE WAS COMPLETE BY 5:30PM THE SAME DAY. I WAS CHARGED TWO HOURS LABOR AT $125 PER HOUR. HOW IS THAT FAIR? MY VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY WHEN THIS HAPPENED,...