2013 BMW 335I Engine Problems

I have an F30 body style bmw with the N55 engine. After purchasing the car I noticed a very rough idle for a few moments when warming up the car. The idle would be so rough that when in gear to reverse out of my driveway, it would jerk the car further than it should be meant to go. A slight tap of the throttle and the jerking would propel the car forward resulting in a dangerous situation. I almost collided with a couple of cars so far and I have kids in the car. Upon much research and performing car diagnostics, it was found that the cars valvetronic system which controls the idle for fuel efficiency is defective. After looking into this further and joining a few online forum groups with the same vehicle, it has been known that this is a vastly common issue with this vehicle. Thousands...

Loss of power/won't Rev over 2500rpms No fault codes displayed on dash Radiator fan goes to max and cuts off consistently every 30sec-45sec Very dangerous situation when pulling out in front of traffic. I've only owned this car for 3 months! I need to get this fixed asap. Also, this problem occurs at random times in all different conditions. It will also "reset" after turning car off and restarting. It has happened to me 7 - 8 times in 3 months!

CHARGE INTAKE PIPE FAILED AND EXPERIENCED SEVERE POWER LOSS DURING ACCELERATION ONTO THE INTERSTATE. NO WARNINGS OR CAUTION LIGHTS ILLUMINATED AT THE TIME OF THE POWER LOSS. I CONTINUED DRIVING TO MY SERVICE DEALER (VALENCIA BMW IN VALENCIA, CA). UPON ARRIVAL, I OPENED THE HOOD AND SAW THAT THE CHARGE INTAKE WAS TORN AWAY FROM THE HOUSING. UPON FURTHER REVIEW, THE DEALERSHIP INDICATED THAT THE PART FAILED AND NEEDED BE REPLACED. I HAD THE SERVICE CENTER REPLACE THE PART IN FULL ACCORDANCE WITH BMW FACTORY RECOMMENDATIONS AND PROCEDURES. THE VEHICLE'S ENGINE IS NOT MODIFIED IN ANY WAY.

I LOVED MY BMW UNTIL I REALIZED IT HAS A FAULTY ENGINE. I NOTICED THE DRIVE TRAIN MALFUNCTION LIGHT ONCE WHEN I WENT THROUGH A CAR WASH. I TURNED OFF WHEN I RESTARTED THE CAR. MY CAR WAS UP TO DATE ON ALL OIL CHANGES ETC, I TAKE IT TO BMW SPECIALIST ONLY. I NOTICED A LIGHT TICK SOUND AND REPORTED IT TO BMW AT MY LAST OIL CHANGE. THEY DISREGARDED IT AND SAID THEY DID NOTICE OIL ON THE GASKET. NO CHANGES REQUESTED AT THAT TIME. MY CAR NEVER SHOWED SIGNS OF LEAKING OIL AND THE OIL PRESSURE AT TIMES SHOWED TO BE LOW BUT WOULD ALWAYS RETURN TO NORMAL. I WAS TOLD IT WAS BECAUSE THE HYBRIDS WORK DIFFERENTLY. ON MY WAY HOME ON THE FRONTAGE ROAD OF I35 MY CAR JUST SHUT DOWN AND NEVER RESTARTED. I WAS ABLE TO GUIDE IT INTO A PARKING LOT AND...

MY NAME IS [XXX], AND I TOOK MY BMW TO ONE OF PORTLANDS DEALERSHIPS TO GET MY CAR SERVICES. FIRST TWO DAYS WERE FINE, THEN AFTER THAT MY PASSENGER AND DRIVER AIR BAG LIGHTS WERE CONSTANTLY FLASHING ON MY WARNING NOTIFICATIONS TAB. I REACHED OUT TO THE DEALERSHIP AND THEY WANTED ME TO COME BACK. AFTER I WAS DONE WITH THEM THEY CHARGED ME OVER $700 FOR INSPECTING THE ISSUES AND PROBLEMS REPORTED, THEN QUOTED ME OVER $4,000 WORTH OF AIR BAG REPLACEMENTS. THE DEALERSHIP CLEARED THE CODES BEFORE I LEFT AND DECLINED THEIR OFFER. I SAW ON KELLY BLUE BOOK THAT THERE WERE RECALLS ON THIS MODEL. AT THIS TIME I'M HESITANT TO TRUST THE DEALERSHIP BECAUSE LAST TIME I WAS THERE I WAS TOLD I NEEDED A NEW ENGINE, WORTH OVER $26,000. THE CAR IS ALMOST AT 70,000 MILES AND I FIND THAT VERY HARD TO BELIEVE.I ALMOST...

TL* THE CONTACT OWNS A 2013 BMW 335I. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE ENGINE CHARGE PIPE SEPARATED FROM THE WELDING AREA LOCATED BY THE INTAKE MANIFOLD, AND CHARGE PIPE PARTICLES PENETRATED THE THROTTLE BODY. THE CONTACT AND AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC INSPECTED THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT TAKEN TO THE DEALER. THE VEHICLE WAS NOT DIAGNOSED OR REPAIRED. THE MANUFACTURER WAS CONTACTED. THE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 68,000.

WHILE DRIVING ON THE FREEWAY GOING TO WORK, AROUND 5:30 IN THE MORNING, THE POWER TRAIN WARNING LIGHT CAME ON THE SCREEN.., WHILE ON SPORT MODE SELECTED I NOTICED THAT MY RPM WAS CLOSE TO 3K DOING 65 MPH., THE VEHICLE SLOWED DOWN TO 45 MILES PER HOUR AND HAD NO POWER.., I WAS ABLE TO PULL OVER THE SHOULDER AND TRIED SEVERAL TIMES TO RE-START THE CAR TO NO AVAIL., I HAD THE CAR TOWED TO THE NEAREST BMW DEALERSHIP, AND THEY DIAGNOSED IT AS A BAD HIGH PRESSURE FUEL PUMP. THEY REPLACED THE PUMP THE SAME DAY, TEST DROVE IT AND EVERYTHING IS BACK TO NORMAL. THE REPAIR WAS COVERED UNDER WARRANTY, I SENT THE TOWING EXPENSES TO THE BMW ROAD SIDE ASSISTANCE FOR REIMBURSEMENT., SAID IT WILL TAKE A FEW WEEKS TO GET IT IN THE MAIL..

WHILE PARKING CAR IN USUAL PARKING LOT AT WORK, 8:30 AM, TURNING WHEELS TO LEFT, CAR SUDDENLY ACCELERATED ON IT'S OWN WITHOUT ANY WARNING, CAUSING CAR TO JUMP OVER PARKING BUMPER, THROUGH CONCRETE BLOCK WALL AND CONTINUED TO RAM INTO PRIVATE HOME, MAKING HOME UNSAFE TO ENTER. ALL THIS CAUSED $14000.00, NOW, UPDATED TO $19000.00 DAMAGE TO THE CAR, NOT INCLUDING THE COST OF DAMAGE TO THE WALL AND BUILDING. BMW DEALERSHIP WILL NOT LOOK INTO THE ACCELERATOR CABLES ETC...SAYS IT IS NOT AN ISSUE WITH THIS INCIDENT. THIS SHOULD BE INVESTIGATED FURTHER AS SAFETY OF OCCUPANTS / PEDESTRIANS AND OTHER VEHICLES COULD BE IN JEOPARDY! P.S. WE HAVE NOT DRIVEN THE CAR YET SINCE IT HAS BEEN AT THE BMW BODY SHOP SINCE DECEMBER 8 2015. CAR IS SECOND OWNED BY US. WE BOUGHT CAR AT 6K MILES AND NOW HAS 10K MILES. MY WIFE IS SCARED OF GETTING...

DRIVING THE VEHICLE ON A HIGHWAY WITH NORMAL SPEED LIMIT. VEHICLE STARTED TO SPUTTER AND DRIVETRAIN MALFUNCTION WARNING LIGHT CAME ON. VEHICLE WAS LOSING POWER AND SPEED DECREASING QUICKLY IN THE MIDDLE OF THE HIGHWAY. I DID HAVE A CHANCE TO PULL OVER SAFELY ON THE SHOULDER. WIFE AND CHILDREN WAS SCARED AND SO WAS I. HAD THE VEHICLE TOWED TO THE NEAREST BMW DEALERS/SERVICE STATION. DIAGNOSTICS SO FAR WAS BAD FUEL. ONLINE FORUM SUGGESTED OTHERWISE. ANY HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED. *TR

"LIMP MODE" IS A VERY WELL KNOWN ISSUE AFFECTING 2012-2014 BMW 335I MODELS WITH THE M SPORT PACKAGE. AFTER ACCELERATING FROM A STOP TO 60-65 MPH, AND MERGING INTO TRAFFIC, I EXPERIENCED LIMP MODE. THE CAR WOULD NOT ACCELERATE, THE RPMS WOULD NOT RISE ABOVE 2500 OR FALL BELOW 2000. THE OIL TEMPERATURE WAS APPROXIMATELY 200 DEGREES. DURING THE SUDDEN LOSS OF ACCELERATION AND POWER, NO MATTER HOW HARD OR FAR I PUSHED THE ACCELERATOR, THE CAR WOULD NOT ACCELERATE- THE CAR COMPLETELY LOST ALL POWER AND THE ABILITY TO ACCELERATE. AS I WAS COASTING, I TRIED PUMPING THE GAS AND SHIFTING GEARS (SHIFTABLE AUTOMATIC) TO NO AVAIL. THERE WERE NO WARNING LIGHTS ON THE DASHBOARD OR OTHER WARNING MESSAGES DISPLAYED. WHILE TRAFFIC ZOOMED PAST ME, I COASTED FOR A GOOD 30-60 SECONDS GRADUALLY SLOWING TO ABOUT 15 MPH. AFTER ROUGHLY 60 SECONDS, I PUSHED THE ACCELERATOR DOWN AGAIN AND...

THE CAR GOES INTO "LIMP MODE" WHILE DRIVING REDUCING POWER IMMEDIATELY. I WAS MAKING A TURN ONTO A STREET CROSSING A HIGHWAY AND MY CAR WENT INTO THIS LIMP MODE. I WAS ALMOST HIT DUE TO THE SUDDEN LOSS OF POWER. SYMPTOMS: 1) LOSS OF POWER AND CAR WILL NOT REV. PAST ~3,000 RPM (NO FAULT CODES ON DASH) 2) RADIATOR ELECTRIC COOLING FAN ON MAX (VERY LOUD) 3) ENGINE OIL TEMP. APPROX. 205 DEGF OR LOWER (WHILE LIMP MODE IS OCCURRING, TEMP. IS USUALLY NOT AT NORMAL OPERATING TEMP OF 245 DEGF) THE PROBLEM GOES AWAY ONCE CAR IS TURNED OFF AND BACK ON (IT RESETS). MANY USERS HAVE REPORTED THAT IT SEEMS TO HAPPEN AFTER A LONG COMFORT MODE DRIVE ON THE FREEWAY FOLLOWED BY CITY DRIVING AND SWITCHING TO SPORT MODE. REPAIR ATTEMPTS: 1) AUXILIARY ELECTRIC COOLING FAN REPLACEMENT (MOUNTED TO THE RADIATOR AND FAN SHROUD) -...